We want to thank Visit Council Grove for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Scenic Drive

We left home, in KCK, around 6:00 in the morning, which gave us time to stop for breakfast along the route. Council Grove is less than two hours from our home and offers some nice views of the countryside. It’s located just 55 miles southwest of Topeka, in the Flint Hills. Before long, we found ourselves cruising through the rolling hills. We rolled into the town of about 2200 residents just as the business day was beginning.

Getting Our Bearings

Our first stop was at the Visitors Bureau. This is a great place for travelers to begin their exploration, since the staff knows the area as well as anyone you will find. They will usually have plenty of maps, brochures, and information about all of the local attractions, sights, and businesses. We also find them to be a good resource for dining recommendations. Give it a try next time you visit a new destination. We bet they will become your go-to resource on most every trip.

History Abounds in Council Grove

One of the main purposes for our visit to Council Grove was to check out their large quantity of historic sights. They list 25 individual attractions, which seemed like a huge number for a town of their size. Some pre-trip research shed a little light on why this place would have so much to see. Council Grove was an integral stop on the santa Fe Trail. It was the last place to rest up and restock supplies, before wagon trains made the 600 mile journey to Santa Fe. It was also one of the last places to find hardwood trees, which were a vital source of repair parts for wagons. If you want to understand that last bit better, be sure to ask Diane Wolfe at the Visitors Bureau. (You can read more about the historical sights here.)

An Old Friend

Council Grove is split in two by the Neosho River, which flows south toward Oklahoma. In this part of the state it is a fairly manageable body of water. This is one of the main reasons why the wagon trains passed this direction. It made for a good crossing point and these days the Riverwalk celebrates that occurrence with commemorative signage and this beautiful waking park. While I had done research before our visit, somehow I completely missed the name of the river that flowed through the town. In my younger days, I would spend my summers with my grandparents in a little town called West Mineral, Kansas. Just west of town, the Neosho River passed by on its way to become Grand Lake in Oklahoma. Many times we would head to the river to fish or swim, and even noodle once in a while. It’s amazing how the mention of a name can bring back so many pleasant memories.

Local History

What would a visit to such a historic town be without a trip to the local museum? Diane was happy to show us around the Post Office Oak Museum located on Main Street. We noticed the odd name, but she was quick to point out the reason. In the past, travelers on the Santa Fe Trail would leave messages for others in a hollow in an old oak tree located at this site. Before long, a building was constructed nearby and over time served multiple purposes. These days it is the local/regional museum. It is filled with artifacts from the early days of the town all the way through the more recent past. When you visit be sure to set aside a good amount of time to view all of the collections. (Read more about the Post Office Oak Museum here.)

Retail Check

After our lunch, we wanted to do a little different type of exploring in town, so we headed to Main Street to check out some of the shops in Council Grove. We strolled along, and popped in a variety of retail stores. It gave us a chance to talk with some of the locals and get their views of their hometown. No matter how large or small the destination, we always try to get a flavor for the place by interacting. We find it to be a good way to meet some very interesting people and even make new friends. It amazes us how many times we even find a connection with some of the people we meet. One of the shops we stopped in was owned and operated by the Council Grove mayor. I would bet that this small tidbit would have easily been undiscovered if we hadn’t struck up a conversation.

Real Meals

Since I started my blogging life with restaurants, we are always mindful to try to sample plenty of the local flavors wherever we travel. After all, one thing we all have in common is the need to eat. Council Grove offered up some historic dining destinations, which we were more than willing to sample. A couple of our stops were in buildings that have been around for over 100 years. We could almost feel the history in them as we entered and getting the opportunity to learn more about these historic stops was humbling. We are sure that many of you have noticed a high volume of historical sites in our catalog of articles. It is our belief that travel is one of the best ways to continue education into our adult years. Getting a good meal, while learning some history is an added bonus. (You can read more about Council Grove eats here.)

Overnight Stay

While Council Grove makes an excellent day trip destination from Kansas City, it would be a shame to leave without experiencing a historical stay. We had the opportunity to spend a night at The Cottage House, which is a quaint hotel just a few feet off of the Santa Fe Trail. It makes a perfect home base for exploring the town, as it puts you right in the middle of everything. The clean, comfortable rooms are spacious and offer Victorian charm. (You can read more about Cottage House here.)

Since we were spending the night, it gave us a chance to head out to the lakes just north of the town. After taking a short drive around them, we settled on a nice spot that overlooked the water to the west. We soon were joined by others who know of the beauty that was about to unfold before our eyes. As we waited, we discussed the historical draw of Council Grove and wondered how many others in the region don’t realize all the jewels this hidden treasure holds. Soon the sun sank into the horizon, and everyone’s attention was drawn to the wildfire of colors that spread across the sky. While we are blessed to have the opportunity to travel to many places, we always have loved our Kansas sunsets! We hope you liked this overview of Council Grove and would love hearing from you. Please leave us a little love in the comments section below!

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We want to thank Visit Council Grove for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Origins

Our visit to Council Grove began with a walking tour hosted by Diane Wolfe from the local tourism bureau. A large number of the sites are located along or near Main Street, which closely follows the original Santa Fe Trail path. A short jaunt led us to the remnants of the Council Oak. This is the spot where the representatives from the Indian tribes living in the area met with U.S. ambassadors to strike an agreement over the use of the trail. With this treaty in place, it signaled business full speed ahead for wagon trains.

Honorable Mentions

Nearby we came upon two statues that commemorate important demographics from pioneer days. The Madonna of the Trail statue is one of twelve found around the United States. Each one is placed in a state where the National Old Trails Highway ran. Just across the street we found the Guardian of the Grove statue. This bronze was created in 1998, by a local artist, to pay homage to the Kanza Indian tribe. For those not familiar with Kansas history, the tribe was also called the Kaw.

Durland Park

Heading further east, from downtown, we came to Durland Park. Here the city has assembled a variety of historical artifacts and buildings in one centralized location. (Perfect for those not wanting to do a lot of walking.) A replica of the original Calaboose (Old jail) shows how uncomfortable it would have been to be incarcerated in the mid-1800’s. We are pretty sure the hot summers and cold winters of Kansas would have been a great deterrent to repeat offenders.

We Like Trains

An original “Katy” Depot (Missouri-Kansas-Texas)  sits nearby. It is one of only two that still reside on their original location in Kansas. Just a bit behind it we found the Sylvan Park Depot. It was interesting to find that a man built his own personal depot, on the railroads right-of-way. It was used by his wife and visitors to visit their ranch. It ended up being the last privately owned depot. We never even knew anyone had built their own or that the railroad would have serviced them.

Riverwalk

Like most stops along one of the great American trails, Council Grove was serviced by a river. Fresh water was a vital commodity that travelers were always looking out for. The quietly meandering Neosho River offered a chance to refill their water barrels, before heading out on the Santa Fe Trail. These days the city has developed a beautiful park along the banks.

Life or Death

While the river brought life sustaining water, it also required the wagon trains to ford it to continue their journey. This portion of the Neosho River offered the best option, but it would still have been a potentially treacherous activity. Recent rains would have swollen the flow, and brought with it dangerously faster currents. It took experienced trail bosses to navigate these perils. These days the banks have been built up with flood stopping levees, but the original direction can still be seen reflected by the brick trail in the picture to the far right.

Diane informed us that our next stop was a little off of Main Street, so she felt the best path was to explore a little of the river-walk. We were more than happy to hear this, since we wanted to see more of this wonderful area. As we made our way south, we spotted a local trying his luck on the bank. I was hoping to catch a picture of him landing a catch, but my exploration partners had moved ahead without me. I hurried along and caught sight of them passing over a converted train trestle.

Early Settlers

While the original treaty was developed in 1825, it wasn’t until 1847 that one of Council Grove’s most notable pioneers arrived. Seth Hays (a great-grandson of Daniel Boone) came to the area with the purpose of trading with the Indian tribes. The first permanent building was constructed by him to be used as a trading post. By 1857, the population was growing, so the Council Grove Town Company was formed. Hays continued to expand his presence in Council Grove, and ended up adding the Hays House Restaurant to his collection of properties. This originally functioned as a mercantile store, restaurant, courthouse, post office, and meeting place. These days the Hays House remains the oldest continuously operated restaurant west of the Mississippi River. (You can read more about the restaurant here>)

We had an opportunity to tour Seth Hays’ House, that was built in 1867. While he never married, he did adopt a daughter who he raised along with his slave Sarah Taylor, who went by the name Aunt Sally. After slavery was abolished, Sarah remained with Seth, and is now buried near him. The home is decorated with period pieces and presents a view of life from the late 1800’s. The lucrative businesses that Hays operated made him a man of considerable wealth, so the home was furnished quite nicely for the time.

Beans, Bacon, and Whiskey

We can still remember those childhood trips when our parents would remind us it was the last stop for a while. It was a signal that all business needed to be completed, because we would be heading out on a long haul. Can you imagine this same thing occurring in the 1800’s? The Last Chance Store was erected in 1857 and served for a brief period as the final stop for supplies prior to heading across the open prairie. It was 600 miles to Santa Fe, so wagon trains needed to be stocked up for the journey. And we thought we had it rough when we had to sit still for a few hours.

These are just a handful of the historic sites that can be found in Council Grove, Kansas, so make your own plans to visit this “jumping off point” for the Santa Fe Trail. You may be surprised what all you discover. Be sure to wrap up your visit with a side trip to one of the two lakes north of town to catch a beautiful Kansas sunset. They are hard to beat!

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We want to thank the The Cottage House and Visit Council Grove for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Special Touches

From the time we arrived, we were pleased with our lodging choice. The beautifully decorations recall a grander time, when quality was built into all of the details. As we were checking in, we noticed the foyer seating. Comfy benches and chairs begged to be sat in. Just across the hallway we discovered a breakfast nook perfect for supplying our morning coffee ritual. We knew this charming setting would make for a historic stay.

Old World Details

After checking in, we made our way up the staircase to our room. The woodwork is astonishing, and everywhere we looked we saw signs of the workmanship that is hard to find these days. The sun shining through the numerous stained glass windows cast rainbows of colors on our path. The beautifully carved rails and spindles reminded us of visits to mansions from yesteryear. A crystal  chandelier added an additional element of fashion to the setting.

Room To Spare

We made our way to our room, and found that the charm continued. As much as we travel, we have become accustomed to dealing with smaller spaces at times. The Cottage House offered us plenty of room with Victorian flair. Our king size bed looked so inviting, and an over-sized love seat provided plenty of seating. It was a little out of place to find a flat screen television in such a romantic setting. Of course, it came in handy when we needed to check the weather forecast for the next day.

Creature Comforts

The property sits just off Main Street, so it was easy to just park our car and walk to shops nearby. A huge porch offers guests a place to gather and chat after dinner at one of the town’s restaurants. For us, this ended up being the Hays House, which was only a couple of blocks away. (You can read more about Council Grove restaurants here>)  We ended up taking a drive out to the lakes for a sunset view, before calling it a night. Thankfully, we had a comfortable room at The Cottage House waiting for us on our return. Have you ever stayed at The Cottage House in Council Grove, Kansas? We would love to hear your thoughts.

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We want to thank the businesses and Visit Council Grove for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Breakfast With The Locals

Our readers know we like to find the spots the locals frequent. One of the true tests usually comes at breakfast, since it is definitely the most important meal of the day when you are exploring. Saddlerock Cafe is the kind of place that is easy to overlook, but a shame for those who do. It sits about a half block off the main drag, but we knew we were in the right place by the packed parking lot.

The interior looks like so many other small diners we have visited. Like many of those, we were sure that this place was about to knock our socks off. Scattered around the two dining rooms were a mix of locals all discussing the current events or days chores. We knew we were in the right place when we saw all of the local license plates in the lot. Our server stopped by and served us up some piping hot coffee to help us clear the cobwebs. Time to check out the menu.

Special Touch

We had the pleasure of being joined by Diane Wolfe, of Visit Council Grove, during our visit. She served as our personal tour guide and was happy to provide lots of the backstories associated with the places we visited. This hometown diner was her suggestion for breakfast and it was spot on. We informed her in advance that I would want to take pictures of everyone’s food, before we started eating. She was happy to oblige. She appeared at first to be ordering a standard meal, but upon further discussion we discovered the Saddlerock offers a variety of bread choices. Now I know what you are thinking. Of course they offer variety, wheat, white or rye. Sure, they have those, “but wait there is more”. (One of my favorite lines from the movie Clue.)

I decided on French toast, as did Crystal. We had to decide between Cinnamon, Cinnamon raisin, Raisin pecan, Pina Colada, and Cranberry orange almond bread. If you can imagine, it made choosing rather difficult, since we wanted to sample every flavor. In the end I chose Cinnamon and Crystal went with the Cranberry orange almond. The flavors completely altered the normal taste of our dishes, and brought a new enjoyment to our taste buds. It will be difficult to look at plain brioche toast the same now.  This certainly made our breakfast a memorable experience.

Storytime Luncheon

During our tour of the town, we walked out toward the western side , where the Trail Days Cafe can be found.. Although the town continues past the cafe, this was not the case in the 1860’s. At that time it was known as the Terwilliger Home, and it was the last house that the wagon trains would see as they headed southwest on the Santa Fe Trail. For those returning east on the trail, the home marked a return to civilization.

The building is the oldest stone home remaining on what was once the Santa Fe Trail in Kansas territory. The Terwilligers bore their 15 children here and the home remained in the family until the 1900’s. In the 1920’s it was converted into a gas station to service the growing trend of motor vehicles. Once again the shady trees of Council Grove became a haven for travelers to camp out in the shade from a long, hot day of driving. Soon they erected four small cottages to rent for lodging on the property grounds. Four more cottages were added during World War II, and used to mainly house military personnel. By 1977, the main building ceased to be used as a gas station. It sat idle for nearly twenty years, before it was adopted and on its way to becoming the delightful stop it is these days.

Original Eats

The menu at Trail Days Cafe is not the run of the mill type. It is broken down into a collection of cuisines based on region and time period. The goal is to replicate original dishes as close as possible. Pictured above are some of the dishes we sampled. On the left was a serving of Ham & Beans with Cornbread, which was a common dish for Early Americans. It was a combination of the Old World settlers and Eastern Indian tribes. From the Old World section of the menu, we tested the German Cole Slaw and Applesauce. Our last dish brought a touch of the 20th Century to the table. The 1902 Hamburger was invented in Clarinda, Iowa. The menu at the Trail days Cafe tosses in background information on all of their dishes, so customers get to learn about the origins of each thing they order. What a great idea! By the way, the food was delicious.

After our lunch, we were invited to take a peek upstairs at their collection of artifacts from days gone by. Here we found the upstairs bedrooms were set up much like they would have been for the Terwilliger family in the 1860’s. When you visit Trail Days cafe, we hope you get to spend some time speaking with the couple who run it. They are a wealth of historical knowledge about the surrounding region. It was so much fun hearing all of the stories about the past.

Simple Beginnings

No visit to Council Grove, Kansas would be complete without a stop at the Hays House. Seth Hays came to the area in 1847, and found that the area was already a popular place for wagon trains to assemble, before heading out on the Santa Fe Trail. He built himself a cabin and began serving meals out of it. Within ten years, he realized there was a growing need for more space, so he constructed the Hays House directly on the trail route. For the next four decades, the building would offer up more than just a meal and a place to stock up on goods for the road.

The mail was distributed from the building for a period, and the government rented space to hold court. Downstairs we found an area that served as a bar on Saturdays and church on Sundays. (The bar was covered for church services.) The original peaked roof was destroyed in an 1886 fire, but the building was saved from destruction. Up until the 1940’s, the Hays House also rented rooms to travelers. Visitors are encouraged to explore the upstairs and cellar to get a glimpse into the past.

Hearty Dinner

Travelers stopping at the Hays House can find a menu filled with delicious choices. We arrived for dinner, and were feeling rather famished from our day of exploring. Fortunately, we found that we would not be leaving hungry. Hearty dishes abound on the menu, and the special for the day was the Kansas City Strip Steak. (They must have known we were coming.) It was served with a baked potato and a visit to the salad bar. Fresh baked bread was brought to the table to accompany our salads. By the end of our meal, we had refueled our bodies and were ready for the evenings activities.

After dinner, we took a drive out to the lakes north of Council Grove. We found a nice spot to watch a Kansas sunset. (We consider these some of the best!) Before long, we were joined by others who had the same idea. We were happy to see that our spot was the choice of so many. There is something about a beautiful sunset setting that makes you want to share it with others. As you can see from this article, Council Grove, Kansas has some great eateries. Be sure to bring your appetites when you visit, as it is sure to be a historic trip. Which of these delicious dining destinations will you be adding to your travel schedule?

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Council Grove, Kansas is a town that we have heard mentioned many times over the years, but had never visited. Like many small to mid-sized towns, it is filled with the history and stories of the people who persevered in the harsh environment of life on the prairie. In 1541, Coronado crossed the Neosho River on the site that is now Council Grove. The town is one of the last areas to be home to stands of hardwood, which was a vital commodity for pioneers heading west. The oak trees would supply fuel for fires, raw timber for wagon repairs, and some welcome shade prior to their departure. The town’s name comes from a meeting of U.S. representatives and the leaders of the Osage tribes, who gathered under the “Council Oak”. The 1825 treaty they struck, provided for safe passage along the Santa Fe Trail heading southwest from the area. This monumental event cemented Council Grove as the main rendezvous point for wagon trains heading out onto the prairie.

Centuries of History

Seth Hays, a great-grandson of Daniel Boone, was one of the first settlers to the region. In 1847, he opened a trading post, which became the first permanent building in what would become Council Grove. We would find that many sites in the town have a link to Seth Hays. The township grew over the next decade, and in 1855 a post office was established. To many in those days, a post office was a requirement for a town to be considered official. The Council Grove Post office sat in the shade of a 135 year old stately oak. This tree would continue to thrive for another 135 years, before finally passing in 1990. Prior to the addition of the building, the oak tree was used as a drop off point for messages heading east or west along the trail.

Simpler Times

We have found that one of the best ways to get your bearings in a new destination is to visit the local history museum. It not only offers a glimpse into the past, but will usually tell the story of the citizens through the ages. Of course, there are also lots of interesting pieces of memorabilia to observe. No matter how many museums of this type we visit, there always seems to be some new pieces we have yet to discover. Learning the background story around them is what makes each exhibit unique.

A prime example is this bed, which is what would have been used in many pioneer homes. These days we are all used to a set of box springs and mattress, but life was a little less comfortable in the 1800’s. It would be commonplace to have a mattress stuffed with hay or straw that rested on a rope lattice. Periodically the user would need to tighten the sagging ropes. We are sure that the mattress filling would be a little less enjoyable than the memory foam versions of today. These displays make us remember how thankful we should be for modern conveniences. Even the air mattresses used during camping would be considered an improvement.

Familiar, Yet Unfamiliar

In the kitchen, we discovered many pieces that look familiar. Some of these we have seen in other museums, and a few are even items we may have used in our childhood. Most would be devices that our grandparents used as children. Once again the idea of convenience was brought to mind. Who can imagine cooking on a wood burning stove three times per day? I guess even this would be considered a luxury as people headed out onto what was once considered the Great American Desert.

Life on the Plains

For pioneers, life was filled with all sorts of danger. Among these was the threat of attacks from nearby Indian tribes. On numerous occasions the residents would have to fend off or hide from attacks. A plaque on the outside wall describes one such event in 1864. Later, we would tour the basement area where they hid for safety. It would certainly have been a frightening time. Not long after, in June of 1868, the town would receive its final Indian scare. Around 400 Cheyenne Indians would descend upon Council Grove, but passed through harmlessly. Their final intenet was to clash with the Kanza Indians in what would later be called the Cheyenne Outbreak of Morris County.

We headed upstairs to what would have been the bedrooms. These days they are dedicated to holding a variety of displays donated by members of the Council Grove community. Like so many other museums, this creates a somewhat eclectic collection of items from past generations. One room held an assortment of medical devices, instruments, and equipment. Nearby, we found a room filled with personal effects from some affluent members of society. The dapper outfits would have been quite dashing as they strolled the streets at the turn of the century.

Getting Places

Public transportation has been a concern for many generations and it is just as true in smaller towns as it was in the big cities. Those living in farmsteads outside the city limits would have used horse drawn transportation, but not so for the town’s residents. We found this photo which detailed an early streetcar that served the townsfolk after the Civil War. These are the kind of tidbits that catch our attention and make us rethink how life must have been in those days.

Like so many towns and cities that sprang up along the western routes, getting the railroad’s attention was key to survival. In 1868, the Katy Railroad would build through the Morris County, which would become a driving force in bringing new residents to the area. Later, the Missouri Pacific Line would service the town. These days Council Grove has stabilized with a population around 2200 residents. In future articles, we will show you some of the 25 historical features of this town. With a ratio of one historic site for every 88 residents, this could make Council Grove the most historic place (per capita) to visit anywhere in the U.S. Time to start planning your own day trip (or even overnight-er) to see this jumping off point for the Santa Fe Trail.

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