Schwab’s Iconic Museum

Beale Avenue traces its origin back to 1841 when it was named for a military hero. Its proximity to the riverfront made it desirable for tradesmen and shopkeepers. One of those early shops is A. Schwab’s, which is the last of the original stores along Beale. For many generations, this iconic shop has been the place to purchase dry goods. Over time, they found that customers were more interested in souvenirs and party supplies. As we were exploring the store, we discovered that it is also home to a local history museum. The Beale Street Museum focuses on the history of the store, as well as the people who have made the street a familiar name.

Mr. Handy

A series of glass-encased cabinets showcase some of the famous names whose lives are intertwined with Beale Street. The iconic roadway has had a long association with music. It began as a home to traveling musicians in the 1860s. By the late 1800s, familiar music destinations were introduced. The Orpheum Theatre, originally known as the Grand Opera House, would become the classiest theater outside of New York City. A fire in 1923 reduced the building to ashes, but a new theater would spring up in 1928. It would be W.C. Handy who would become the major influence behind the changing of the name to Beale Street. His song, “Beale Street Blues”, would become an anthem, which would draw other blues artists to downtown Memphis.

Bigger than Life

While we were walking on Beale Street, we spotted many recognizable names and figures. Memphis is obviously proud of its musical heritage and does a great job of showcasing it to visitors. The jazz clubs that line the street hold the memories of artists from days gone by. Louis Armstrong, Memphis Minnie, Muddy Waters, B.B. King, and Roscoe Gordon are just a few of the famous musicians who frequented Beale Street. We’re sure that most people are familiar with Memphis’s Graceland, which was the home of Elvis Presley. There is even a sign denoting the worthwhile work of Danny Thomas, who founded the St. Jude’s Children’s Research Hospital in the early 1960s.

Gathering Grounds

Walking on Beale Street, in the middle of the 20th century, would have looked far different than today. The area was home to many black-owned businesses. During the 1960s, the Civil Rights Era began in Memphis. The National Civil Rights Museum details many of the hardships faced by those struggling for racial equality. Beale Street was a gathering place for members to meet up and strategize. In fact, the sanitation workers strike found the protestors walking on Beale Street.

Swelling Crowds

As evening approached, the clouds rolled across the sky. The swelling crowds made walking on Beale Street a little more of a challenge. Even during a pandemic, we found the swirling sounds of blues and jazz emanating from doorways. Darkness began to envelop the city, but here the neon lights provided plenty of illumination. Even with an influx of people, the excitement of this historic street reigned supreme. We realized that dinnertime was approaching, so we were facing a hard decision.

Memphis BBQ

Diners on Beale Street face a lot of choices. With the crowds surging, we knew there would be long lines at the places with live music. Being from Kansas City, it only seemed appropriate that we would seek out some Memphis barbecue. The smell of hickory smoke led us to Pig on Beale. Being one of the newer breeds of BBQ joints, we decided to see how they do ‘cue. Memphis barbecue has some similarities to KC style, as they are both based on “low and slow”. We sampled a mixture of pulled pork, sauced ribs, onion rings, and potato salad. The meat was flavorful without being dry, so we decided to give them good marks. The sauce at PIG is rich and packed with flavor, and those rings are something to behold. We exited the restaurant satisfied that we had just sampled some authentic Memphis-style BBQ.

Walking on Beale Street

Our visit to Memphis was steeped in history, so you know I was loving every minute of it. The energy of the crowds helped fuel our continued exploration, well into the late evening. We could imagine what it must have been like to witness some of the blues greats live in action. For decades, this historic district has represented the life and times of people from Memphis. Walking on Beale Street, we could feel the lifeblood of the city coursing through the brick pavement. Have you ever spent time on this famous road?

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Artsy Start

There is something appealing about a space filled with old-school artwork. During our travels, we have seen so much grassroots art that we have grown to love all of the variations we find. Sunrise Memphis has plenty of this homemade eye candy hanging on the walls. Many of the pieces reminded us of the handmade items we found in Lucas, Kansas, which is lovingly referred to as the “Grassroots Capital of Kansas”.

Bring the Green

The menu at Sunrise Memphis is quite extensive and includes handhelds, as well as plated dishes. When I noticed a menu item that put avocado into play, I was betting that Crystal would pick it. Sure enough, one order of Basic B for her. It all starts with some of their homemade Ciabatta bread, which is delicious. A healthy slathering of mashed avocado is added and then it’s topped with two eggs cooked your way. On the side they toss in a serving of their hash browns, which add a tasty crunch to the meal.

Hearty Beginnings

I wasn’t feeling peckish in the least, so I selected the Kitchen Sink. Just as the name would imply, this plate is packed with savory fare. I wasn’t jealous of Crystal, since I had my own hash browns and eggs. She may have been a bit envious of my Hanna Farm grits, Evan Meat sausage, and Petit Jean farm bacon. To wipe up the last drops of goodness, they include a sumptuous buttermilk biscuit. This looks like a lot of food, (which it is) but I was up to the challenge.

Simple Messages

Dining at Sunrise Memphis definitely had us rubbing elbows with the locals. That look I get when I pull out the camera was replaced with smiles, whenever I caught the glance of other diners. I’m guessing that the food is so good that the locals are used to people documenting their experiences. In fact, the notice about not hoarding tables may have even been meant for travel bloggers who camp out for the perfect shots.

Sunrise Memphis Moments

Now that we had our bellies full of the delicious eats from Sunrise Memphis, we were ready to head out on our morning of discovery. While we may not blog about every breakfast, we certainly like to shout out the ones that make our travels extra special. This place definitely falls into that category and we are so glad we found it. What type of breakfast stops do you look for when traveling?

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Lorraine Motel

The warm summer sunshine cast its first rays across the lawn of the Lorraine Motel. The complex of historic buildings, that make up the National Civil Rights Museum, features this historic lodge. Built in 1925, the structure changed names a couple of times, with the name Lorraine being applied in 1945. Life during the segregation period was difficult for blacks traveling throughout the United States. Walter Bailey had purchased the property with the idea of creating an upscale lodging option for black clientele. Originally constructed with only 16 rooms, Bailey added a second floor and swimming pool.

Haven for Rest

His project worked, and soon the Lorraine Motel would become a haven for those looking to rest from their travels. Memphis saw an explosion of population growth that moved the city from 100,000 in 1900 to nearly 400,000 by 1950. Fueled by this rapid growth, many industries took a foothold in Memphis. Music has long been associated with the city and many famous artists are from this birthplace of rock ‘n roll. During the 1960s, artists like Ray Charles, Aretha Franklin, and Otis Redding would seek shelter at the Lorraine Motel.  Often, they were in town for work being performed at Stax Records.

Lay of the Land

Just about six blocks from the Mississippi River, we located the National Civil Rights Museum. Parking was found less than a block away, as there were no crowds on an early Sunday morning. Turning the corner that led to the motel’s courtyard, we found signage that laid out the key displays. We wished our timing had been different, as we would have loved to tour the interior exhibits. Fortunately, they have made sure that visitors can have an educational experience at any time. Scattered around the museum courtyard is a series of kiosks that offer audio-video excerpts about the days leading up to the fateful assassination.

Electronic Guidance

The quiet morning was actually a perfect time to visit. Martin Luther King Jr. had arrived in Memphis in early 1968. He was there to support the striking black sanitation workers. During this visit, he was booked in room 306, at the Lorraine Motel. On the evening of April 4th, King stepped out onto the motel balcony. At 6:01, a shot rang out that would change the history of America. We stood there looking up at the balcony where King was assassinated. We had learned on another trip, that the assassin James Earl Ray, had escaped less than a year earlier from the Missouri State Penitentiary. Now that we were at the scene of the assassination, we were gaining perspective of the atmosphere in America during these tumultuous times.

Gaining Perspective

The heinous act created a shockwave through the Civil Rights movement. Race riots would flare up in major cities all across America. Many of the civil rights leaders called out for a non-violent action, which was the approach used for decades by Martin Luther King Jr. The city of Memphis resolved the sanitation worker’s strike in favorable terms for the laborers. President Lyndon Johnson attempted to calm the rising storm by reaching out to leaders from all sides. King’s wife, Coretta, continued his worthwhile work until her death in 2006. The name of Martin Luther King Jr. has become synonymous with peaceful change.

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We want to thank Memphis Travel and the Memphis Zoo for hosting our visit. Rest assured that all opinions are ours. 

Laser Focus

The number one species that we were looking forward to seeing was the Giant Pandas. These mesmerizing creatures remind us of oversized stuffed animals, even though they can be surprisingly dangerous. During our planning stage, I had plotted a path that would bring us to their exhibit in short order. Arriving at the opening time meant that most of the animals were alert and active. Passing through a 50-foot pagoda, we found ourselves deposited at the perfect time to watch one of the two pandas eating breakfast. This endangered species spends a significant portion of its day, up to 14 hours, eating bamboo.  A large amount of the balance of the day is spent resting. Luckily, we arrived during feeding time.

Watchful Eyes

While the giant pandas were our primary target, there was no way we would have passed up the other exhibits. An African lion couple was entertaining the crowds with their vocal calls. The female was enjoying some people watching from her comfortable perch. The male strolled the exhibit keeping watchful eyes on zoo guests. It was a great opportunity for some photo captures.

Natural Beauty

Another big cat we spotted was the Snow Leopard. These creatures are always interesting to see. Being elusive in nature, it is rare to be seen in the wild. Unfortunately, this is a species that is closing in on extinction, if not for the work of zoological parks around the world. Seeing them in this exhibit allowed us to witness the beauty of their coats. In the wild, they would blend in with their natural habitat and be nearly invisible.

Always Aware

Moving from one exhibit to the next, we were seeing a pattern. In almost every case, the animals were keeping watchful eyes on all of us, visitors. Even as they paused for rest, it seemed they were still observing. We were also observing and noticed that the flamingos, while colorful, paled in comparison to the ones we spotted at the Philadelphia Zoo.

People Watching

We moved into Primate Canyon, where the feedings had ended and the animals were now just observing. One of the Lowland Gorillas was intently watching the passing crowds. As we watched him, we wondered what he was thinking. His intense stare lasted for such a long time that we finally needed to move on to the next exhibit.

Silly but Serious

The last space we had time to view was the Orangutans. These creative creatures are almost always a source of entertainment. While most of them were busy scampering around their space, one had decided to play a solo game of hide-and-seek. We paused for quite a while watching his antics. The shot above shows his watchful eyes checking out my camera. It was clear that these fun-loving creatures had plenty of experience interacting with zoo visitors.

Timed Entertainment

It feels good to be back at it and exploring again. The pandemic did make us realize that we enjoy nature and its wonders. We began hiking, albeit not the strenuous type, as well as visiting national parks. Over the coming months and years, we anticipate bringing you more articles that deal with all types of nature experiences. Zoological parks are definitely still on our list, but we also intend to step out into the wild some more. We hope you enjoy this added direction and will experience some of these sites, as well. It’s time to get back out into the world.

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