Spotting Melrose Plantation

Our visit occurred during the height of Covid, so we weren’t sure what to expect. As we pulled off of the main road, we caught our first glimpse of Melrose Plantation through a stand of trees. Set back well off of the road, we could picture the days of horses and buggies rolling along the winding path to the house. Constructed with Greek Revival architecture, this home was built after an unusually strong tornado ravaged Natchez in 1840.

Plantation Grounds

Arriving at the National Historic Landmark, we parked and made our way toward the house. As we walked through a breezeway, we spotted a park service employee. She informed us that due to Covid protocol, home tours were currently unavailable. While we were a little disappointed by this news, we were determined to still enjoy our visit. We knew a walking tour of the grounds would provide plenty of interesting views.

Sights of the South

Our stop in Natchez was a break from the road on our way to the Louisiana River Plantation Region. Wandering around Melrose Plantation was a good precursor to the sights that are commonplace in the deep south. Walking along a path, we enjoyed the shade being provided by the moss-covered oak trees. These stately giants are quite a sight to behold and a sure sign that you have made it to a more temperate climate.

Touring the Grounds

On the way to Melrose Plantation, we had made a stop at Forks of the Road Market. This nondescript site looks like any city park but has an ominous tie to the dark history of slavery. In the mid-1800s, Natchez was home to the second-largest slave market in the United States. Spotting the slave quarters on the Melrose estate, we were reminded of the advances made on the labor of the enslaved. We read that 22 enslaved people lived and worked at Melrose Plantation.

360 Degree Views

Over the years, the Melrose Plantation has changed hands a couple of times. The original owners began the construction in 1841 and saw the completion in 1849. The rise of the Civil War caused them to sell it in 1865. It would stay in that family’s possession until 1976 when it was purchased by the owners of Callon Petroleum. The mid-1980s saw the bust of the domestic oil industry, and the Callons put the estate up for sale. It would become the property of the National Park Service in 1990.

Visiting Melrose Plantation

Our tour of the grounds, at Melrose Plantation, was free to the public. When the home tours return, they usually cost around $10 per person. We would like to return to see the interior, as most of the original furnishings remain on-site. It’s good to see these structures and estates being used to educate the public about the past. While some would prefer to destroy or emit this history, we feel it is important to remember the cruelties inflicted by people in the past. Perhaps, someday humanity will eliminate this type of treatment from the face of the planet. In the meantime, they stand as reminders that all people should be treated as equals.

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District Life

It is hard to say when the Natchez first arrived in this region, but evidence points to around 700 A.D. They were well versed in life along the Mississippi River. Their lifestyle was a combination of hunter, grower, and gatherer. When the DeSoto expedition arrived in the area in 1542, they found a community lifestyle made up of multiple districts. The Natchez were cultivating corn, beans, and squash, as well as harvesting wild plants. What the Europeans brought them was smallpox, bubonic plague, and measles. Over the next 100 years, the Natchez population dropped drastically.

Living Off the Land

Like many Native Tribes, the Natchez were skilled hunters. Living along the woodlands gave them ample opportunity to hone their skills. To increase their odds of success, wildlife would be driven into an area that was surrounded by hunters. Here it would be easier to make a kill and provide for the tribe’s needs. Deer and bison were common prey, but they also hunted bears, porcupines, and turkey. The abundant wildlife provided clothing and ceremonial materials for the tribe. They also enjoyed their leisure and played a stickball game that resembled modern lacrosse.

Mississippi Mound Builders

The lands around the museum have been preserved and include walking trails that allow guests to get in touch with nature. Included in your walk, is a chance to see two mounds that were excavated and rebuilt. Mound building was not uncommon for indigenous tribes across North America. For many, they served as ceremonial sites. The mounds constructed by the Natchez were flat-topped and sometimes included as lodging for tribal leaders. These Mississippi Mound People achieved the pinnacle of their power about the time French explorers visited the region. After establishing a colony in present-day Mobile, Alabama, French explorers moved inland to claim the land for France.

Trusting the Wrong People

In 1716, the French established Fort Rosalie near the edge of the Mississippi River. As it continued to grow, relations between the French and Natchez tribe became strained. The British were also embedded in the area and used their agents to create animosity between the two other parties. In 1729, war broke out between the Natchez and French. An attack on the fort ended with the death of about 230 colonists, only sparing the women and enslaved captives. The repercussions of this action signaled the downfall of the Natchez tribe. The French teamed up with Choctaw natives to kill mass numbers of Natchez. Those left alive were sold into slavery. Survivors who escaped would join other tribes and carry on the Natchez bloodlines.

Our Day Was Looking Up

While our schedule only allowed for a half-day visit to Natchez, Mississippi, we made every effort to pack it as full as possible. We had already learned about the history of this city and enjoyed a meal with some locals. A visit to this museum had immersed us into the origins of the native people who had occupied this area before Europeans arrived. We were quickly falling in love with the first Mississippi city. It’s one that will need more exploring in the future.

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Making Waves

During the planning stage, I had made a list of various excursions we could make in the area surrounding Pass Christian, Mississippi. Our plans originally included a visit to Ship Island, which is home to Fort Massachusetts. Unfortunately, it was closed during our time in the Gulf Shores. Crystal agreed that we should replace it with time spent chilling on the beach.  The evening we arrived, we made time for a short beach walk. The calming sounds of the gentle waves lapping the shoreline helped us slow down our pace. We were looking forward to spending an entire day of relaxing. After dinner, we took a drive along Beach Boulevard to get the lay of the land. We made note of the various places that offer beach chairs for rent.

Sun & Sand

The following morning we practiced relaxing by sleeping in for a bit. After packing up our supplies for the day, we headed out for breakfast. Pass Christian sits at the western end of a long stretch of beach. About 20 miles to the east lies Biloxi and in between are a lot of shopping and dining options. In between these two points is a wonderful stretch of sandy beach. Periodically, we spotted groupings of beach chairs that offered some shade from the southern sun. The rental costs was reasonable, so we picked a spot that had access to nearby parking. This would be our base for a day of leisure.

Making Memories

Part of taking this break was also to acknowledge 40 years of married life. Like many, our travels have changed with time. During our younger years, we were focused on raising a family. Many of our trips revolved around visiting other family members during the holidays. When we did take a regular vacation, they were road trips. It was during those days that we honed our skill at cobbling together a multiple city itinerary.  Who would have thought it would serve us so well in later life.

Say Goodbye to 2021

In 2021, we experienced a return to the seashore. It had been five years since our last visit, which had been a cruise adventure with a pre-departure stay in Cocoa Beach, Florida. During that trip, we had wiled away hours walking along the shoreline. This trip felt different. We were in the midst of a pandemic, which had ground on the lives of everyone for over a year. The travel industry had taken it on the chin and we wanted to keep presenting a positive tone for those looking to escape the daily grind. Here in Mississippi, we were just wanting to let the waves wash away the cares for a bit. Our hope was that the Gulf Coast vibes would lift our spirits and renew our determination to paint a positive picture.

Gulf Coast Vibes

While our beach time was limited to one day, it worked wonders to lift our spirits. Just feeling the salt spray on our skin and hearing the gulls overhead helped us unwind. A good dose of Vitamin D was provided by the abundant sunshine and for a while we didn’t worry about the problems of the world around us. We knew that those concerns would still have to be faced, but for now we were unplugged. After all, it’s something we all need to do once in a while. Let go and just soak in some sunshine.

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Biscuits and Blues

The city of Natchez sits on a hillside, which offers sweeping views of the Mighty Mississippi River. Being the oldest city in the state, we expected to find it bathed in southern charm. We were not disappointed. As we rode along Main Street, the antebellum architecture told us that we had arrived in the south. The heat of the early summer day was only beginning to unfurl and the sweet aroma of Gardenia hung in the air. We found a parking spot and crossed the street to Biscuits and Blues.

Natchez Hospitality

Our visit occurred on a Sunday, so we knew going in that not everything would be open. Fortunately, many of the local restaurants open their doors in time for the church crowds. As we entered, it was immediately apparent that we were the only ones in the place who were not locals. We found ourselves greeted by an abundance of smiles and nods, which told us we were more than welcome to join in the festivities. Our server started us off with a pair of their namesake biscuits, which comes with a helping of Apricot Butter. What a delightful way to welcome diners.

Southern Comfort Food

Our visit to Natchez was not impromptu, but we did have a limited amount of time to see as much as possible. It was imperative that we stay on track, so we chose to make lunch a bit lighter than most meals. Our server walked us through the menu. When I mentioned that we were looking for something uniquely special to Biscuits and Blues, he pointed me toward the Grits & Grillades. This southern comfort dish is comprised of cuts of tender pork tenderloin marinated in a savory gravy. It is served up on a bed of Jalapeno Grits, which adds a nice touch of flavor without bringing too much heat. I discovered a dish that I would add to my list of good things to watch for at other restaurants.

Tastes of the South

Crystal went in a different direction, but still stayed on a southern path. Her choice of a cup of J.P. Gumbo started her on the way for many more variations during our week-long trip. This version comes packed with loads of chicken and andouille sausage, swimming is a hearty broth. The addition of a side salad created a balance that is common for her midday meals. The gumbo had a little kick, but most of it came from the sausage. Crystal gave this dish a thumbs up and finished it off to the last drop.

Visit Like a Local

With our appetites satisfied, it was time to check out more of Natchez, Mississippi. The city has certainly moved far beyond its humble beginnings in 1716. Driving through the streets of the city, we could see how the various ethnic backgrounds had impacted the architecture. French, English, and Spanish  designs blend to create a tapestry that provides a background for the people who live here. Clearly, the southern hospitality has been found in this city for many generations. It made us feel like locals and we couldn’t wait to share some of their stories. Have you ever visited Natchez?

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Earliest Inhabitants

In just about every corner of the North American continent, there is evidence of native peoples. The Natchez people resided along the bluffs of the Mississippi River, near where the city lies today. Their language was unique to them and unlike most any other tribe. While it is impossible to say for sure, it is quite possible that the earliest European contact was made by Hernando de Soto in 1542. In his notes, he spoke of a powerful chiefdom located on the eastern banks of the river. The encounter was short-lived, as the natives attacked and chased the Spanish explorers out of their territory. When French explorers arrived around 1700, they were met with less hostility. It would only take three decades for this relationship to sour. After a series of conflicts between the two parties, the French would attempt to take the lands of the tribe and war would see the defeat of the Natchez people and the end of the Grand Village of the Natchez.

The Early Days of Natchez

By the mid-1700s, the rule of the land had changed hands. With a French defeat at the Seven Years’ War, Great Britain assumed control over this region. Much of the land was parceled out to officers from the war. The Revolutionary War saw an end to British rule, and in 1779 Spain took control of the land. By the end of the 1700s, Americans had acquired the lands from the Spanish and set up Natchez as the capital of the Mississippi Territory. Prior to the invention of steamboats, Natchez served as the port for cargo heading north along the Natchez Trace. With the territory opening up, plantations began popping up, which included the use of slave labor.

Dark Days

As America moved into the 1800s, there was a rapid increase in the number of enslaved people being moved through the southern regions. The transatlantic slave trade had become an influential business across the southern territories. Markets were set up that dealt strictly with the sale of slaves. While markets were found in Jackson, Vicksburg, Aberdeen, and other Mississippi cities, it was Natchez that was the most active. The growing textile market in England fueled the need for more cotton to be produced in the United States. The invention of the cotton gin, as well as advances in shipping, led to an expansion of plantations.

Forks of the Road

In 1807, a federal law was passed that prohibited the import of additional slave labor from Africa. By this time, there was already a massive number of enslaved people on American soil. A large number had been brought to the Chesapeake Bay area for use in the tobacco fields. With the productivity of this crop waning, it opened up an internal source for slaves to the south. To help facilitate the movement of the enslaved people, slave markets were set up across the region. On the eastern edge of Natchez, one of the busiest markets would arise. Known as “The Forks of the Road”, it would see steady use until Union troops occupied Natchez in the summer of 1863. Before its end, tens of thousands of slaves would pass through this market.

Turbulent Times

Even though the Natchez Visitors Center has limited space, they have made the most of it for educational purposes. During the time of the Civil War, this river city was a key producer of cotton. This crop was vital to help fund the Confederate Army. When New Orleans fell to Union forces in the spring of 1862, it signaled the loss of the Mississippi River to the Confederacy. Due to the surrender of the city, Natchez would avoid much of the destruction that was doled out to other southern cities. It would even become a refuge for many former slaves who were freed by the Emancipation Proclamation.

Changing the City’s Path

After the war, Natchez would rebound quicker than most southern regions. Cotton remained a popular crop, but slave labor was replaced by sharecropping. The access of river traffic once again placed the city in a vital position. It allowed the transport of manufactured goods from the north. Steamboats plied the waters, offering luxury travel options. This would continue to be the case until the railroads replaced river traffic. Natchez would find itself under scrutiny during the Civil Rights movement. An active presence of the Ku Klux Klan created a volatile environment that would require federal intervention. It would take many more years to squash the after effects of slavery in the southern United States.

Natchez Visitors Center

You can see we found loads of history during our visit to the Natchez Visitors Center. The city has survived its turbulent past to become a jewel of the Mississippi River. Armed with all of this newfound information, we were prepared to head out exploring. Who knows what amazing discoveries await us around the next corner? One thing is for sure, we will be keeping our eyes open for more chances to learn about the early days of Mississippi’s first city. Isn’t it time for you to plan a visit?

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