Gearing Up for the Hunt

Not everyone looked at the buffalo the same way. Native Indians were familiar with the importance of this creature and relied on it for food, clothing, and even housing supplies. The railroads saw it as a nuisance that held up progress. Others saw these huge creatures as an opportunity for sport. Hunting trips for celebrities and dignitaries were commonplace by the late 1870s. In 1872, George Armstrong Custer arranged an outing for a Grand Duke from Russia. A visit to the Fick Fossil Museum, in Oakley, allowed us to learn more about some of the celebrities that have graced this area. While hunting history, we even got to see how we compared to Annie Oakley and Buffalo Bill Cody.

Life on the Plains

New settlers to the region found that life was no picnic. Many were resigned to living life in a sod house, much like the one we found at the museum in Oakley, Kansas. We would not want to imagine the number of bugs that resided in the walls and roofs of one of these homes. Plenty of varmints, like field mice, would also call the dwelling home. Of course, where you find mice you will also find snakes. Rainstorms would bring at the least a muddy floor and even a potential roof collapse from the weight. Dry spells brought their own issues, as it meant dirt pieces would rain down on the inhabitants of the home with each gust of wind.

Extreme Weather

Extreme weather is something the residents of Oakley, Kansas have learned to deal with. Heavy winter snows race down out of the Rocky Mountains of Colorado to bury the western plains. The howling winds will add to the issues by drifting the piles into deep banks. Most people are aware of the Dust Bowl that engulfed the Central Plains in the 1930s. Oakley was in the area that had some of the hardest-hit lands. Many times the dust clouds were so dense that daylight would become near-total darkness. Travel was impossible and the choking dirt would find its way into every home.

Monument Rocks

Our quest to hunt history took us back to prehistoric times. Eons ago, the western side of the Kansas region was a huge inland sea. As creatures came and went, layer upon layer of silt was deposited on the seabed. As the land rose up, the seas were drained from the area. More time passed and erosion did its work slowly carving the chalky soil into amazing structures. South of Oakley, Kansas we found Monument Rocks National Natural Landmark. These fossil-filled silent sentinels rise above the rolling plains. While they are impressive to see from a distance they are even more so up close.

Kansas Badlands

As much as Monument Rocks grabs the attention from a distance, the exact opposite can be said for the Kansas Badlands. One of the state’s newest parks, Little Jerusalem State Park is a collection of chalk outcroppings that have remained fairly hidden for ages. The approach to the site brings visitors in from the southeast, so this canyon of natural wonders lies below the horizon. It wasn’t until we began hiking the park trails that we finally caught sight of the formations. It is a reminder that the wonders of nature aren’t always easily visible and require a little effort.

Hunting History in Oakley, Kansas

We have often heard people remark that there is nothing in western Kansas except miles of flat terrain. Those who explore this region know just how far that is from reality. The western plains are filled with history, natural wonders, rolling hills, and friendly people. Throngs of settlers passed through these lands, as they made their journeys toward the west. The hardiest of those decided to call this place home. We invite you to see all of these wonders for yourself by planning your own exploration trip to hunt some history in Oakley, Kansas.

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Welcome to Little Jerusalem

Little Jerusalem Badlands State Park is located about 60 miles east of the Colorado border. We used Oakley as a home base for exploring the geological formations that are commonplace in this region. An earlier visit to Monument Rocks had whetted our appetite for more, and we knew this place had to been seen to be believed. The drive from town takes about a half-hour, and the closer we got the more outcroppings we saw. Once at the park, we found clear signage for the two trails designed for exploring.

Level Ground

Long ago, this area was part of a huge inland sea. (You can learn more about that in this article from Hays.) That means that the ground is relatively level, which makes the hike fairly easy. The Kansas Badlands are actually somewhat below ground level, so we walked right up on them before they revealed themselves. Once we got closer, the magic of their formations began to unfold in front of us.

Chalk Towers

Our first sights were the chalk peaks that jutted out of the landscape. The layers of sediment were apparent on the sides of each formation. Cracked and worn with time, they stand as silent sentinels overlooking the grasslands. A nearby farmhouse reminded us that we were still in Kansas. As we hiked, we discussed how the early pioneers must have been surprised when they happened upon these formations. We wondered if they took the time to explore them for their natural beauty.

Nature at Work

It has taken many centuries of erosion to form the Kansas Badlands. As we took in the various effects created by nature, it reminded us of a smaller version of a canyon we visited near Amarillo, Texas. We decided to start our hike with the 1.2-mile overlook trail. It winds along the southern rim of the formations, before striking north into the heart of the park. Along the way, we spotted an assortment of signs that gave us insider information about the history of the formations.

Photographers Dream

During our visit, we met another couple from Kansas. They were also exploring the area for the first time and had the same awe feeling as we did. At this point, it would be a timely reminder to bring a camera or phone with plenty of storage space. You are going to find yourself taking a slew of photographs. It seemed like every step opened up a new angle or view. The formations are so unique and looking at them from different perspectives highlights a variety of characteristics.

Back to Nature

While the changing times have certainly affected the wildlife, it hasn’t left the area devoid of animals. During our visit it was extremely hot, so we imagine most of them were tucked away for comfort. The signage hinted at many of the interesting creatures that call Kansas Badlands home. This particular sign reminds visitors to take in the majesty of the space around them. As we stood silently observing, we could hear the calls of birds in the distance. Even an unseasonably warm day doesn’t prevent life from going on.

Hidden Wonders

The idea that such a fantastic natural feature can remain nearly hidden from view still amazes us. Part of the mystery most likely revolves around the fact that this park is actually one of the newer ones for the state of Kansas. For generations, this was private farmland owned by a local family. It was only recently that they turned the space over to The Nature Conservancy. This allows visitors to commune with nature in a way that the family did for years. We are hopeful that we will get a chance for a return visit. Perhaps it will include a closer look with a prearranged tour by a park ranger.

Visit the Kansas Badlands

After taking in this natural wonder, we were left in awe of the power of nature. We consider a visit to the Kansas Badlands one of those trips that help people reconnect with the world around them. The admission for the park is $5.00 per vehicle and they have a self-pay station set up in the parking lot. If you are in possession of an annual Kansas State Park vehicle pass then you get to skip the admission. The trails are gravel-packed, so they are pretty easy to navigate. While the signage mentioned the wide array of wildlife that call this place home, they weren’t out much on the day we visited. We hope you have a chance to visit this unique Kansas sight. Travel safely!

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First Blush

These days social media has become a lifeline between people. We use it to connect, stay up to date, and even to do research. We love to use our Instagram account to scope out places others have visited, in hopes of locating our next destinations. With the pandemic forcing people to rethink vacations and travel, the idea of visiting natural landmarks is becoming more intriguing. A few of our social connections were showcasing photos from Monument Rocks, near Oakley, Kansas. We decided to find a way to add this to one of our excursions so that we could see it for ourselves.

Silent Sentinels

To gain a better understanding of the Chalk Pyramids, we have to travel back 80 million years. At that time, the entire area was a vast seabed. Over eons, the bed dried as the land lifted. This left the limestone exposed to erosion from natural forces. The work of millions of years has left us with this impressive stand of sculpted natural stone structures. It also exposed an amazing variety of fossilized marine creatures.

It’s All About Layers

Reaching Monument Rocks from Oakley is fairly direct, although a little dusty. Heading south out of town on Highway 83, we found a relatively flat landscape. Farmlands and ranges dominate the eye’s view. Trees are sparse out here in the post-rock country. After traveling about 20 miles, we turned east onto Jayhawk Road. This rocky trail led us through private lands, where crops and cattle are kings. This stretch ended up being 7.4 miles along dusty gravel roads. For those unfamiliar with country roads, keep your eyes peeled for cattle crossings and washboarding. Both of these can be detrimental to your vehicle.

Eye on the Sky

As we approached the site, little sightings captured our interest. A jutting formation here and there hinted at the find to come. Rounding a bend in the road, suddenly the Chalk Pyramids sprung into view. The gravel road leads between two main outcroppings. Seeing these towering natural masterpieces was certainly awe-inspiring. It got us to wondering how the Native Indian tribes would have felt finding these monoliths. After all, this region of the continent was often occupied by Cheyenne, Sioux, Kiowa, and Apache Indians.

Framing a Moment

The impressive structures are situated on the east and west sides of the gravel road. We began our visit on the west side, which holds the Keyhole Arch. This unique opening is a magnet for visitors looking to capture an image. As we waited for others to finish, we looked around the area. Since this is private property, certain protocols are expected to be followed. No climbing on the structures, as it may cause damage. Forego the collecting of fossils or rocks, even if they are lying on the ground. No littering, that should always be a given. The idea is that these fragile ruins are to be viewed with our eyes and left to weather naturally.

Changing Silhouettes

Once we had satisfied ourselves with tons of photos on the west side, we drove a couple of hundred yards to the parking area by the eastern formations. It was easy to imagine that at one point the entire area was awash with these formations. The often harsh weather of western Kansas has certainly played a large part in their continued erosion. Late afternoon was turning to early evening, and we noted the changing patterns of the shadows. This particular park is open from 6:00 am until 8:00 pm, so we would not be able to enjoy the sunset during our visit.

Beauty from All Angles

The eastern side seemed to draw less of a crowd, but we still found it to be just as amazing. As I wandered around looking for good angles, I noted how the western portion stood majestically over a small ridge. I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to catch the photo above. I would say it ended up being one of my favorites. There is just something breathtaking about the layers of colors that work their way down the sides of the chalk pyramids.

See the Chalk Pyramids for Yourself

Photos can tell a story, but some things are better seen in person. While our social friends had intrigued us with their posts, seeing Monument Rocks in person was unbelievable. To think, there are so many people out there who think that the Midwest is bereft of any beauty. We say that there is beauty all around, we just have to slow down and open our eyes to it. We hope you enjoyed this tour of the Chalk Pyramids, and perhaps you will journey out to Oakley, Kansas to see them for yourself.

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