Approaching the Monument

The rolling hills that surround Devils Tower are covered with plenty of vegetation. We were making our way along a winding road but had yet to spot the prize we were seeking. It was still quite pleasant, so we took in the beautiful landscape as we continued forward. It was about 20 miles off the interstate before we came to the turnout for Devils Tower. Seeing the sign renewed our excitement and it would only be a few minutes until our diligence was rewarded. Cresting a hill, the monument suddenly popped into view. It was still a ways off, but we now could see our prize.

The Story of Bear’s House

Before we begin looking at the 3 ways to explore Devils Tower, let’s get some background on the site. The lands surrounding the monument were common to the Lakota and Kiowa tribes. Their legends tell of a group of girls out playing, when they were spotted by some bears. The creatures began to chase them and the children climbed a rock to escape. Out of fear, they prayed to the Great Spirit for assistance. Their prayers were answered and the rock began rising from the earth. The bears attempted to climb after and their claws raked the grooves into the sides of the rock. In the end, the girls reached the sky and turned into the star cluster known as The Seven Sisters.

Getting an Education

In 1906, President Roosevelt declared Devils Tower as America’s first national monument. The two-square-mile park is covered with pine woods and rock outcroppings. Arriving in the park, we showed our National Parks Pass and made our way to the visitors center. The first of 3 ways to explore Devils Tower, it is a great place to begin a visit. Inside the center, we found an array of exhibits showing the history of the area and the people who have inhabited it. Constructed in the 1930s, the space also includes a gift shop filled with various souvenirs.

Hiking the Base

After picking out our mementos, and stashing them in the car, we turned our attention to the second way to explore. There are five trails that criss-cross the park grounds. Whether you are planning an extended stay or just have an hour, there are options for everyone. We were on a tight schedule, so we chose the shortest version, which is the Tower Trail. At just over one mile, it offers hikers views of the tower from all angles. Along the route, we found a selection of signs that told more of the story of Devils Tower. While the hike had some steep inclines, we were still able to complete it in our timeframe.

Scaling Tree Rock

As we made our way around the monument, we kept our eyes peeled for climbers. Every year, many choose to scale and rappel down Devils Tower. Being the third way to explore the monument, it was not one we would select. Still, it was intriguing to watch a pair of climbers in action. We learned that you have to have a permit to scale one of the thirty-one climbing trails up Devils Tower. This is done for the climbers’ safety and to ensure that every climber is accounted for at the end of the day. We are betting that it is very exhilarating to experience a climb on this amazing natural feature.

The Many Faces of Devils Tower

The 275-foot tall pillar is about 100-foot across. As we made our way around the monolith, we started to notice the different appearances it presents. In the bright sunshine, we could make out the greenish tint of the stone. On the other side, shadows highlighted the crags and fissures that scale the monument. It was easy to see why this place has held special meaning to so many people for so long. Besides the Lakota and Kiowa, there are stories from other tribes that include bears creating the unique ridges along the monument’s sides. As we stared up at it, it was easy to imagine such a scenario.

3 Ways to Explore Devils Tower

While we only participated in a couple of the 3 ways to explore Devils Tower, we came away with a healthy respect for this national monument. Day 2 of our Epic Road Trip included about 600 miles of driving. We noticed the afternoon burning up and knew we still had four more hours behind the wheel before we stopped for the night. Dinner would be a quick stop between the park and our lodging in Billings, Montana. While the promise of a soft bed was enticing, we dedicated ourselves to enjoying the scenery along the way. This was an opportunity to see some landscape that we had never experienced and we love a good road trip.

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Today thousands of visitors come to Jenny Lake annually. The hiking trails are one of the main draws, and a wide variety are available for all skill levels. Since we are not above novice level, we were unsure if we would find one that fit our beginner status. Fortunately, there is a challenging, yet attainable trail to Hidden Falls. We arrived at the visitor center around mid-day, and purchased our $15.00 per adult boat tickets. This is a round trip price with shuttles running every 15 minutes to the Cascade Canyon trail-head.

We boarded our boat, and soon we were off on our trip across the lake. The ride was pleasant, as the waves were fairly minimal. The views along the way are inspiring, and we chatted with some guests who had been on this trail on a previous visit. They assured us that if they could complete it we should have no problems. This eased our nerves a little, and soon we arrived at the far side dock.

The trail is well marked, and it would be difficult to get lost. It winds slowly up the side of the mountain, but the steps are manageable. There are so many sights to see along the way, that it seemed we were constantly stopping for a photo opportunity. This did help in keeping us from wearing out on a constant trek. The total elevation gain on this hike is 230 feet, so it is mostly a gradual incline.

The rushing water from the falls cascades down the mountain base to the lake below. The trail takes advantage of this, and follows the path to the falls base. Along the way, hikers are treated to a variety of smaller falls and rapids. We forged ahead, and soon we could hear the increasing roar from our ultimate goal. As you come through a thicket of trees, you finally enter a clearing and find yourself facing your prize. The falls are a wonderful reason to stop for a bit, and just enjoy this wonder of nature.

After the requisite amount of time, we began our downward trek. There is the option to take an alternate trail, which deposits you at the same boat dock at which you arrived. Both paths offer wonderful views, but we chose to see the second option, as well.

During the climb up, you spend most of your time in the tree cover. This doesn’t allow you much of a perspective of the distance traveled upward. On the descent, when you come to a clearing the lake spreads out before you, and you can appreciate the beauty and wonder of this attraction.

Soon we had completed this 1.3 mile round trip, and were comfortably back in the boat. Our ride back was filled with conversations about conquering what many would consider a molehill. For us it was a mountain that we had climbed. We returned to the Jenny Lake Visitor Center, where we visited their store to pick up a couple of mementos from our visit. Soon we were back in our car and heading down the highway. The memories of our short commune with nature was fresh in our minds, and in our discussions, as we headed for Jackson Hole.

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As we traveled we began to see more things that told us we were far from home. The mountains were more than enough to make this obvious, but then we ran across this sign, that certainly took it to a new level. There are plenty of various creatures roaming the plains, but not this particular species.

We passed through the park entrance, after paying our admission. The rangers were very courteous, and provided plenty of informational guides to assist us in our visit. The temperature had slowly dropped, and as we pulled to the side to take a photo of the entrance sign, it began to snow. Although it was only flurries, it still made for a memorable experience.

Almost immediately after entering the park we were welcomed by a small herd of buffalo. These mighty creatures wander where they wish, and when they choose to cross over you get stuck in a unique traffic jam. Of course, none of the visitors seemed to mind, since they were getting a bird’s eye view of the slow moving animals.

In Yellowstone it is common to be driving along, and suddenly come upon a crowd of cars pulled off to the side. We quickly learned to pull over, as well. Usually the stoppage was due to either a fantastic view, which were usually noted on the maps, or some form of wildlife. It was interesting to see the variety, even in this cooler weather period. Sometimes the animals are quite easy to make out.

Then there are times that it is a little more difficult. In one instance, we rounded a corner to find a handful of cars parked on the curb. We joined them, but could not see what they were looking at. Finally, Crystal pointed out what she thought was a bear on the mountainside. Once again we were glad to have a camera with a good zoom feature. The distance was so great that those with point & click cameras could not make out any more than a small dot. As I reviewed my captures I had a small group scrambling to see on my screen what they had missed. Note to self: always take the good camera.

The wildlife were so prevalent that we even found them in the tourist areas. In Mammoth, near the general store, we found this adult male elk resting on the lawn. I realized after taking the picture just how majestic it made the animal appear. Some moments are just being in the right place.

The first day flew by, and we barely scratched the upper half of the park. Our lodging for the night was in the little town of West Yellowstone, Montana. Located just on the west side of the park, this place is a tourist attraction all of its own. We spent the evening wandering the shop lined streets looking for just the right souvenir to capture the memories of our day.

Morning brought the promise of a beautiful day of exploring. The sunshine was helping to brighten our spirits, and a big breakfast at Running Bear Pancake House helped fuel our desire to get back out on the road. Soon we were back in the park, and continuing where we had left off.

We don’t know how many waterfalls and rapids exist in Yellowstone, but there were plenty to constantly mesmerize us. Many of these cut through a large ravine, which was appropriately named the “Grand Canyon of Yellowstone”. Some are small, and gently roll across askew stones, while others are very grand and plummet large distances, crashing with a roar. All of them are amazing in their own way, and we spent a good portion of the day hunting them down.

All of this water found its way down to Yellowstone Lake near the southern end of the park. This is where our lodging for the night ended up being located, so we made our way toward it. As the day drew to an end, we knew the next day would hold even more wonders. Our lodging was close to the shoreline, and we had noticed a waterfront restaurant when we checked in, so we headed down to find some food. We never expected to be treated to such a fantastic view, while we dined.

After a little exploring nearby, we finally headed to our cabin for the night. After such a busy day we had no problem sleeping like logs. The next morning we woke early, as is our usual pattern. It also helps that we were on Mountain time, which gave us the extra hour. We headed out to begin our day, and were treated to a sunrise over the lake that was breathtaking. I am unsure how long we sat there watching, but eventually we made our way to breakfast.

This day was to be spent exploring the southern region of Yellowstone, which has a considerable amount of geysers, mud-pots, and steam vents. Not long after hitting the road we spotted one of our first vents. We were so excited, but did not realize the minuscule scale of this one versus what we were to see later.

An obvious stop for almost every visitor to Yellowstone Park is the Old Faithful Geyser. Aptly named, because the time of eruption is fairly predictable. Here the water spews over 130 feet in the air. While it is the most famous geyser in the park, it is not the only one. There are actually about 500 geysers in the park, which is the largest number in any single region in the world. We spent a large portion of the morning attempting to locate as many as we could.

This search took us through the three main geyser basin areas; Upper, Midway, and Lower. This area is packed full of more waterfalls, lots of thermal activity, and some very unique sights. The bubbling mud-pots were an amusing stop, as they burped and plopped. The landscape around them looking almost like another world. The location that really captured our interest was the Midway Basin, which is home of the Grand Prismatic Spring. This  area has a collection of hot springs with a wooden walkway offering visitors a close up chance to observe, but getting a little further away offers an even better perspective of the scene.

Too soon it was time for us to set our sights southward, and out of the park. We are sure that a person could stay a month in the park, and still find areas that they never realized existed. The beauty of Yellowstone seems to be unending.

As we passed through the southern exit, we bid goodbye to Yellowstone National Park. Although we knew that we only scratched the surface of what it held, we also knew that we had many more sights to see in front of us.

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Lay of the Land

The museum is filled with life-size dioramas showcasing various life events, that would have been experienced by travelers. Life was hard, and the displays help relate this to visitors. A multi-media presentation plays across the walls, with plentiful seating on platforms stationed throughout the museum. Here we heard the stories of pioneers. It gave us a better understanding of the reasons that so many people chose to face the overwhelming dangers. After all, they were seeking a new life in the west.

Oregon Trail

As we explored the exhibits, we were reminded of the sacrifices made by many. Dangers along the Oregon Trail were numerous. Each day would require breaking camp and moving 15 to 20 miles down the trail. Here they would be required to make camp again. This process was repeated over and over again. The journey, if successful, would take four to five months to complete. It is estimated that nearly a half-million people traveled the Oregon Trail.

Getting Interactive

While many of the displays are static, there are some interactive exhibits. A handcart display shows visitors the amount of strength needed to move possessions across the trail. After attempting it, we realized there was a reason that so many personal effects would be scattered along the way. Lightening the load would become more important as you made your way into the mountains. At another station, visitors can sit in a covered wagon, as a media presentation shows the excitement of a river crossing. This exhibit is especially entertaining for kids and we found a similar display in Montpelier, Idaho.

Forward in Time

We also had an opportunity to climb aboard a stagecoach. Sitting there, we could imagine the long hours inside this bumpy carriage, as we traveled from one point to another. Of course, the stagecoach lines would come along later. For those traveling through the region, the National Historic Trails Interpretive Center should be a must stop. It is a great break from the road, and offers an educational view of life before electronics. By the time your visit is complete, you will have lots of fuel for conversations on the open road. You will also gain a greater respect for the hardships our ancestors experienced.

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