We want to thank Quebec City Tourism and the various businesses for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

1) Lots of Stairs

With our lodging situated in Upper Town, we loved taking in the views from high atop Cap Diamante. That is the name of the promontory that overlooks the St. Lawrence River some 195 feet below. Getting down to Lower Town will usually involve the navigation of stairs. We found ourselves climbing a lot of stairs during our visit. Of course, we looked at that as a good way to counter all of the delicacies we were devouring. Being forewarned about the stairs is definitely on our list of 15 reasons to explore Lower Town, in Quebec City. That being said…

2) There is an Alternative

With so many visits to Lower Town, there were times our legs just weren’t ready for scaling the cliff one more time. Fortunately, there is an alternative method for scaling the heights. While we were exploring Rue du Petit Champlain, we noticed the lower entrance to Quebec City’s famous Funiculaire. This custom railway is designed to carry passengers between Lower Town and the boardwalk far above. We took a few rides along the rails and loved the views of the river and the surrounding area.

3) You May Recognize Place Royale

As we continued exploring Lower Town, we found ourselves strolling the quaint cobblestone streets. On a side street off of Rue de Petit Champlain, we found a small square. As we entered it, we noted a stone church that occupied the center of the square. There was an immediate feeling of deja-vu, but the reason was not coming to us. Later, we would realize that this church was used during the filming of ‘Catch me If You Can’ starring Tom Hanks and Leonardo Dicaprio. Here was more proof that Quebec City is the “Most European City in North America”.

4) The Royal Battery was Built to Keep Out the British

Near the end of the 1600s, England was on a mission to conquer the New World. British colonists from New England began an offensive to take over New France to the north. When Major William Phips arrived at Quebec City, he demanded its surrender. After an unsuccessful assault in 1690, the French constructed the Royal Battery along the river’s edge. It was designed to help protect the growing city from attacks that came by way of the St. Lawrence River. It saw use in 1759 but was destroyed during the bombardment of the city by British forces.

5) Lower Town is Growing

Did you know that you can plot the growth of Lower Town by flagstone markers on Rue Saint-Antoine? Over the centuries, the St. Lawrence River has slowly receded into its deep channel. Paule Bergeron, from Quebec Cite Tourism, pointed this out during an evening of exploration. As we made our way toward the shoreline, we spotted these markers, which are highlighted by waves of colored cobblestones. Standing at the marker for the 1600 shoreline, we realized that it is over 800 feet from where the river sits today.

6) Learn About Quebec Culture

If you have found the markers, then you should reward yourself with another historic visit. The building that sits right next door houses the Musee de la Civilization. This happens to be the most visited museum in all of Quebec City and for good reason. The combination of permanent and temporary exhibits is astonishing. During our half-day visit, we barely scratched the surface of what this space has to offer. We found artifacts from the earliest residents of the region, which include the eleven original tribes. Plan to spend plenty of time learning all about Quebec culture.

7) You Can Travel the St. Lawrence River

We couldn’t compile a list of 15 reasons to explore Lower Town without including a way to get up close to the region’s major waterway. Flowing from the Great Lakes, it is the primary drainage path to the Atlantic Ocean. Samuel de Champlain used the St. Lawrence River as a route to explore the North American interior. These days it is used for commercial transit, as well as recreation purposes. Sightseeing cruises can be found along the piers near the Royal Battery.

We boarded an AML Sightseeing Cruise, which takes passengers on a tour up the Quebec coastline. The views from onboard gave us a new perspective of the beauty of Quebec City. Seeing the skyline, as we moved along the river reminded us of fairy tales we heard in our youth. When we spotted Montmorency Falls, all of the passenger’s attention moved to the natural beauty of this sight. 

8) or Walk with a Ghost

While the daylight uncovers the natural beauty of the city, the shadows of nightfall hold tales of their own. During our research, we found that there are multiple options for ghost tours in Canada’s oldest city. We chose the Le Promenades Fantomes, which is hosted by a historic spirit. As she led us through the darkened streets of Lower Town, we learned unique bits of history from the early days of the city. It puts an unusual spin on ancient history.

9) It’s a Great Evening Destination

After sundown is not only reserved for ghosts and ghouls. In many sections of Lower Town, we found tourists and locals gathering to enjoy the quiet beauty. Street musicians serenade passersby, while others rest their legs before heading back up the hillside. The stores and restaurants are illuminated by incandescent lights, which add a soft glow to the evening. This is the time when Quebec City becomes even more romantic than words can describe.

10) Shopping Galore

Speaking of those stores, there are enough to keep even the most avid shopper satisfied. Whether you visit during the day or evening, you will find a steady stream of customers searching for that perfect gift. Each boutique shop holds treasures just waiting to be discovered. Since our luggage was all carry-on, we knew we would be limited on purchases. That didn’t stop us from exploring as many of the cute shops as possible. In the end, we found space to squeeze in a few special purchases that we made for friends and family.

11) Unexpected Treasures

It would be easy to stop our list right here, but it would leave so much unsaid. The 15 reasons to explore Lower Town have to include some unexpected treasures. Not all of these are easy to spot, as the others. A street covered in brightly colored umbrellas is sure to catch your attention. Of course, there are also little treasures hiding in plain sight. Shopping along Rue du Petit Champlain, we were surprised to spot these cute little animals gracing the spaces outside of the boutiques.

12) Great Dining Options

All of our exploring sure worked up our appetites. It’s a good thing there are plenty of dining choices to be found in Lower Town. American tourists can often be a little fickle about their meal choices, but you will be happy to know that just about any cuisine can be found. On a day when we were pressed for time, we popped into a local diner for a burger and poutine. If you have never tried this Quebec classic dish, then you are in for quite a treat. It combines all the flavors that Americans love; French Fries, gravy, and cheese curds. This carb-filled dish had us coming back for more.

Being just a stone’s throw from the Atlantic Ocean means that there are lots of great places to sample some seafood. One of our favorites is a good plate of Fish & Chips. Living in the middle of the United States makes it difficult to get a fresh version, but that problem is solved by living along the coastline. After our river cruise, we stopped by Taverne Louise for a delicious lunch just a couple of blocks from the Port of Quebec. Listening to the gulls flying nearby made this lunch a special experience.

As we said before, you can find just about any cuisine in Lower Town. One of the most delightful meals was also one that we shared with a new friend. Paule Bergeron was our contact with Quebec Cite Tourism and invited us to join her for a dinner at Ristorante Il Matto. This upscale Italian restaurant serves up family recipes in a modern space. As we cemented our newfound friendship, the staff brought out dish after dish of incredible flavors. Speaking of the staff, their service was like an orchestrated performance fit for the finest dining establishments in the world.

13) They Didn’t Forget the Sweet Treats

You all know that we rarely pass up an opportunity to savor some sweet treats. Thankfully, we didn’t have to make the steep climb to find them. Ice cream ranks very high on the list of our all-time favorites, and in Lower Town we found a new flavor to try. The Quebec region produces over 70% of the world’s maple syrup. It makes perfect sense that this unique flavor would be incorporated into almost every aspect of Quebec City life. Our introduction to maple-flavored ice cream ended up being quite a pleasant addition to our trip. Be sure to get you a sample (or two) when you visit.

14) The Views are Amazing

If you have read our article about Upper Town, then you know we found some fantastic views from the high ground. During our time in Lower Town, we discovered that there are plenty of amazing sights from this angle, as well. Having an opportunity to see Chateau Frontenac from this direction made it look like a European castle nestled upon a hillside. Along the shoreline, we could watch the ferries criss-cross the St. Lawrence River as they carried passengers to the other side. Strolling the cobblestone streets offered us up-close views of the various architectural styles that are found in Lower Town.

15 Reasons to Explore Lower Town in Quebec City

The final and most important thing to know about Lower Town is that you will find yourself wanting to spend more and more time there. With every step of our explorations, we grew to feel like there was more to discover around the next corner. Our visit was limited to five days, but we would have loved to have a full month or more. With so much to see and do, Lower Town became strangely comfortable. Whether visiting during the day or night, we always felt safe and secure as we traversed the streets. We can’t imagine a better place to get a European experience, without crossing the Atlantic. We encourage you to make plans to explore Quebec City for yourself and then drop us a line to let us know your favorite experience.

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism and the Musée de la Civilasation for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

Quebec History

With over 35 years in existence, the Quebec City Museum of Civilization has assembled a good cross-section of historical exhibits. The spaces are filled with dioramas, static displays, artifacts, and rotating exhibits. As is the case throughout the Quebec region, all of the signage was posted in French and English. This was quite helpful for a couple of Americans who are only fluent in one language. As we passed through the first section of the museum, we found items on display that established a starting timeline for Canada’s oldest city. We were impressed at the way the staff had displayed the artifacts so that they grabbed visitor’s attention.

Ghostly Connection

One of the things we find fascinating is being able to find connections between all of the experiences we have during a visit to a new destination. Throughout Quebec City, we were finding these types of overlaps. During a previous night’s ghost walk, we had heard tales of people who had been executed in long-ago days. Our ghoulish guide had even referred to the “gibbet” that was used for such gruesome activities. At the Museum of Civilization, we were able to witness one for ourselves.

Early Life

A favorite of ours is dioramas. These 3-dimensional scenes help paint a picture of life before photographs. The one above highlights the early days of the town, when the majority of the focus was the St. Lawrence River and the sustenance it provided. Seeing all of the detail that has been poured into the work makes us appreciate the time required. Walking around the display, you can find yourself capturing history from various angles.

Detailed Dioramas

Moving to another diorama, we found a scene that shows the growing city. By this point in time, Upper Town and Lower Town were both developing. The indigenous people were closely tied to the future of the town’s residents and assisted in their development. As the town grew into a city, the two sections would merge into one continuous metropolis. Seeing how it looked in the early days is much easier to grasp with the aid of these models.

First People

We were pleased to find that the dioramas didn’t end with just showing Quebec City as it matured. In another exhibit area, we discovered models of the villages that represented some of the native people of this territory. Eleven aboriginal tribes call Quebec home. The “First Nations” are still held in high esteem in this region of Canada. Throughout our visit, we would hear references to some of the tribes. We had even stumbled upon the annual KWE! event on our first night of exploring Quebec City. This yearly gathering is a chance for the public to learn firsthand about the eleven Indigenous Nations.

This is “Our Story”

What happens when a museum works closely with the eleven aboriginal nations that reside in the region? The result is an amazing new permanent exhibit about the native people of this land. The story begins 12,500 years ago and winds through time. It focuses attention on the struggle to merge the Indigenous nations and the growing colony. The Museum of Civilization does not shy away from capturing history as it happened. There is plenty of information about the strife that occurred between the tribes and the colonists during the 400 years of colonialism.

Capturing History

To help visitors gain a thorough understanding, the museum incorporates a variety of tools and technology. Audio presentations allow guests to hear the stories of the people of the land. Video screens show details that help describe the changes over time. Static displays show how life has changed for the Indigenous People of this land. The exhibit leads visitors to the discovery of what it means to be one of the native peoples in today’s world. How has life changed and how have they been able to retain their cultural history and traditions. This exhibit alone can take the better part of a day to digest.

Bringing the World to Quebec City

One of the things that most impressed us is the way that the Museum of Civilization can seamlessly incorporate rotating exhibits. In many museums, these “traveling displays” are often segregated from the permanent exhibits. That is not the case here, and infrequent visitors may be surprised when they return to find so many new displays. During our visit, there were three different temporary exhibits taking place throughout the museum. As we strolled through the spaces, we never realized that these collections were not part of the permanent collection.

Curiosities of the Natural World

One of the rotating exhibits was “Curiosities of the World”. This collection of 200 artifacts was on loan from the Natural History Museum in London. It offered us a glimpse at some real oddities and some rare items. Besides an assortment of mummified “monsters”, they also had the skeleton of a saber-toothed tiger. There were some rare and unusual gems and minerals, as well as a page from Charles Darwin’s original manuscript. It allowed us an opportunity to see items that would otherwise probably never had a chance to witness firsthand.

Soft Shells

A smaller, yet just as intriguing, exhibit was titled “Soft Shells”. A collection of photographs, from Libby Oliver, summed up people’s lives from the aspect of their wardrobes. This unusual look at daily life makes the viewer think. The images ranged from babies to adults, in all walks of life. Can you imagine if you had been asked to assemble your wardrobe for a photo like these? What would the image tell the world about you?

Venenum

In another gallery, we discovered the temporary exhibit on venom and poisons. Most of us have a fear of poisons, yet we can be fascinated by the stories of their use. We can still remember the story of Socrates, who poisoned himself with hemlock. This was done in response to being found guilty of heresy and was a self-inflicted punishment. While this is one of the more notable poisons, the Museum of Civilization’s exhibit pointed out many that were less commonly publicized. One of the fascinating parts of the display was the use of a time-lapse video. Guests would watch as separate panels would appear, which helped tell a story about a specific poison or venom.

A Poisonous World

Another well-known example, yet not as fatal, was the story of Snow White. We all remember the evil witch disguising herself as an old woman, who delivered the coma-inducing apple. Even as children, we are instructed in the potential destructive power of poisons and venom. As we made our way through the exhibit, we found that it included a mix of video, static, and live displays. For the live ones, some tanks held jellyfish, lionfish, and even poison dart frogs. It’s hard to fathom that creatures so beautiful can also be so potentially deadly.

Successfully Capturing History

Our visit to the Museum of Civilization occupied about half of a day. It could easily have been expanded to a whole day, but you know how we like to cram lots of stops in our schedule. While it required us to skim some of the exhibits, we were still able to complete our goal of capturing history specific to Quebec City. A city that has existed for over 400 years holds too much history to be gathered in one collection. Even though that may be the case, the museum does a good job of helping visitors better understand the past, as well as the city’s direction forward. We loved their use of permanent and temporary exhibits to paint a picture of life in Quebec City.

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism for their assistance in hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

A View from Above

Exploring Upper Town, in Quebec City, means visitors will experience a variety of amazing views. One that is most easily recognizable is Château Frontenac. This massive hotel is one of the most photographed structures in North America. Visible from all around Upper Town, this hotel reminded us of a castle perched on a cliff. Its imposing presence was quite a departure from our lodging.

Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil

We were staying in one of the boutique lodging choices that are scattered all around Upper Town. When we first arrived at Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil, the quaint charm was immediately apparent. The welcoming staff made us feel like the most important guests in the hotel. Seeing their interaction with other guests showed that they treat everyone like VIPs. The romantic atmosphere is elevated even higher by their amazing daily breakfasts.

A River Runs Through

A walk along the boardwalk, behind Château Frontenac, gave us an opportunity to view the ferries traveling across the St. Lawrence River. Since we already had plans for a cruise along this waterway, we decided to forego a trip on the ferry. Had we taken one, it would have carried us to Levis, which is the city along the opposite shore. Had more time allowed, we would have enjoyed seeing the Old City from the perspective of the other shoreline. Perhaps we will get to it on our next visit.

Montmorency Falls: An Easy Excursion from Upper Town

To aid in getting our bearings, Quebec City Tourism planned for us to enjoy a city tour. It began with a short excursion to Montmorency Falls, which is an amazing natural attraction. After seeing this beautiful site firsthand, we made our way back to Quebec City. Jacques Baillargeon, our adept guide, pointed out a wide array of stops for us to explore during our stay. As he moved from Lower Town to Upper Town, we realized that it would be impossible for us to explore everything, in just four days.

Pivotal Moment in Time at Musee du Fort

Quebec City is the oldest established metropolitan area in Canada. With over 400 years under its belt, there is way too much history to take in with our limited time. While we wanted to learn as much as we could about this amazing city, we decided to focus on one of the most pivotal times. To do this, we had to transport ourselves to a time roughly two decades before the American Revolutionary War. Toward the tail end of the seven years war, France and England clashed over control of the Quebec region.

Our visit to Musee du Fort took us on a sight and sound show through the most notable events of that time. By progressing step-by-step through the timeline, it helped us grasp the actions of the parties involved in the conflict. By the end of the program, we were eager to see the actual sight of the main event.

Plains of Abraham

Our visit to the Plains of Abraham included a stop at the museum and a short walk through the grounds. Inside the museum, we would continue our education on the turning point in Quebec City’s past. All of the artifacts and exhibits were so interactive that we had to remind ourselves of the series of events that happened 250 years ago. Not only did we find some cool displays, but this place also has an audio-visual presentation for visitors to enjoy. By the time we left this space, we had a solid understanding of why Quebec City has a heavy French influence in a country with ties to England.

Visiting Immersion Quebec

Since we still had a little more time for education, we made a visit to Immersion Quebec. This place is so much fun. Imagine a combination of virtual reality and entertaining classroom studies, and you get an idea of what our experience was like. Here we went beyond the defining moment in time that we had studied at earlier stops. Our virtual tour began in the earliest days of the region and took us on an introduction to the peoples who have inhabited the area. While we have experienced VR on other occasions, this place takes it to a new level.

Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica-Cathedral

Every corner we turned, in Upper Town, seemed to bring a new wonder into view. Being engulfed in so much history was awe-inspiring. Every structure we passed was surely filled with an array of stories from the past. Passing along Rue de Baude, which is one of the oldest streets in Quebec City, we came to Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica-Cathedral. One of the oldest churches in Canada, it was originally constructed in 1647. Twice it has been rebuilt due to fire, the first being from the siege of the city during the Seven Years’ War. We haven’t visited very many cathedrals, so you can imagine the awe we experienced in this beautiful space.

Sunshine and French Bread

All of this education can sure build up an appetite. Upper Town, in Quebec City, is a fantastic destination if you love food, and we fall into that category. We had seen so many delectable dishes, during our planning phase. Now that we were there, it was time to taste all of these delights in person. All of the flavors were everything we had imagined, but oh the bread is so out of this world.  Usually, we are satisfied to have the bread not ruin a sandwich, but in Quebec City we found it to be the star of the show.

Does French Quebec Have Fast Food?

Our first lunch, in the Upper Town section of Quebec City, was scheduled at Café-boulangerie Paillard. Our research had suggested this would be similar to one of the quick, yet healthy, options we find in the U.S. (Kind of a Canadian version of Panera.) We were excited to be exploring the city, so we didn’t want to fill up too much time waiting for meal preparation. The idea behind this unique eatery is certainly something a little out of the ordinary.

The founder of this small Canadian chain had a long career in the catering field. After 50 years, he had learned a key ingredient for success, good bread. This can be hard to find, so he traveled to France to learn how to make it. Instead of enjoying a well-deserved retirement, he convinces one of France’s premier bakers to travel to Quebec City. There they would train native bakers who would use this new talent to produce some amazing treats for customers, like us.

It’s All About Freshness

Paillard is certainly a busy spot at lunchtime. Passing through their big red doors, we discovered a bustling atmosphere inside. Diners were congregated in small groups, heavily engaged in conversation. In the middle of the room, a musician sat playing melodies on an accordion. The smell of fresh-baked bread filled the air. It was an almost surreal moment. The menu was packed with so many delectable sounding dishes that we had to step back and let others pass us in line. Finally, we decided on our choices and placed our orders.

Crystal chose the Swiss Quiche and I selected the Roast Beef Sandwich. By picking the combination meals, we each received a side salad. Each meal also came with one of their famous macarons. As we dove into our meals, we see why they say it’s all about the bread. Paillard runs so efficiently that it almost feels like fast food, but the taste reminded us that it is far more than that.

Burgers Quebec Style

While we were enjoying all of this amazing bread, we also know that we could not survive on bread alone. We’ve always enjoyed a good burger, so this was another dish we wanted to find. Fortunately, our visit to the Fort Museum put us right by one of the premier spots for one of these handheld masterpieces. Le Chic Shack has uncovered the plan for a perfect burger. Most of their signage may be in French, but the diagram of a good sandwich is a universal language. Just looking at that beautiful assembly of flavors reminds me of the amazing taste that came with every bite. Oh, did I mention that they drizzle their house-made chips with maple syrup?

Sampling Poutine

When visiting a new destination, we try to uncover rituals and habits common with the locals. It’s fun discovering new foods and activities that help expand our personal horizons. Upper Town, in Quebec City, was a chance to sample our first taste of Poutine. This Canadian dish is a carb-rich combination that combines French fries, fresh cheese curds, and gravy. The combination may sound a little unusual, but the flavors blend so well together. After this first taste, we would find other opportunities to sample it again. We quickly discovered that there is no “one way” to make this dish, as each place puts its unique twist on it.

How’s the BBQ in Quebec City?

Being from Kansas City, you know we always keep our eyes peeled for a chance to sample some local barbecue. Upper Town, in Quebec City, is home to Faite á l’os, a Canadian smokehouse. Yeah, that’s what they call a BBQ joint in Quebec. Personally, we don’t care what they name it, we just wanted to see how it stacks up to the versions we have tasted in the U.S. After an evening of sampling a wide range of dishes, we are happy to report that this place rocks the ‘Cue. While some items were a distinct departure from what we are used to, everything they serve is made with an eye on achieving perfection. Be advised that they only serve barbecue during the evening meal, but it is some of the best we have ever tasted.

Head Over Heels for Chocolate

With all of these amazing cuisines tempting us, you would think there was no room left for sweet treats. That’s one of the benefits of doing the majority of our exploring by walking. Knowing that the hilly terrain was helping us burn calories gave us the assurance that a few desserts wouldn’t derail our diets. Throughout the city, we found a plethora of options that tempted our sweet tooth. On one of the main shopping thoroughfares, we spotted Chocolata Vieux-Quebec. This place is so dedicated to delivering delicious chocolaty treats, that even the decor looks like dripping chocolate.

After exploring the options, we found that they offer so many unique choices. We were quite familiar with chocolate-dipped soft-serve ice cream cones, and have tasted these creamy treats at plenty of locations. The long list of custom sundaes tempted us with flavors like; Banana Split, Caramel Pretzel, and Quebec produced Maple Syrup. Their designer chocolates reminded us of some we sampled at a shop in Tulsa, Oklahoma. What really stood out was a sweet version of pizza, that is often referred to as “Beaver-tails”. Made with a flat pastry base, the toppings range from simple to sublime. Upper Town in Quebec City is definitely a place that does sweet treats right.

Exploring Upper Town in Quebec City

Upper Town, in Quebec City, holds so many amazing sights, sounds, and tastes. The memories of our explorations will certainly remain with us for many years. Besides all of these places that we have highlighted, we also visited tons of boutique shops. As a matter of fact, on our first evening in town, we found that many of the shops were open until around 9:00 pm. This definitely made strolling extra special. We highly recommend a visit to Quebec City to see the most European city in North America. The stories you will bring home with you will fuel fun conversations. Who has some great memories of this area that they’d like to share with us? Drop us a comment below, so we can check them out!

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism and Ristorante Il Matto for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

Getting Started at Ristorante Il Matto

After trading pleasantries with Paule, we were seated by the staff. The evening’s meal would be a three-course event that would allow us to showcase a variety of the restaurant’s dishes. We kicked it off with appetizers. I chose the Fried Calamari, which was some of the best I have ever sampled. The tasty rings were delightful on their own and made even better with their dipping sauces. Crystal confirmed my prediction by ordering the Cesar Salad. Paule chose the Soup du jour, and we all nibbled on the freshly toasted bread.

The Main Course

Our entree choices reflected the variety of homemade Italian dishes at Ristorante Il Matto. Each plate brought unique flavors and family traditions to our table. The ravioli was a family recipe that is hand-made by the restaurant owner’s mother fresh daily. Crystal noted that these were the best that she had tasted and the cream sauce was perfectly seasoned. Paule was relishing in her plate of Penne Arrabiata which added delicate texture to accompany the Escalope de veau (veal cutlets with mushroom cream sauce). While I didn’t taste their dishes, I can confirm that they both raved about the flavors.

My choice was Pappadelles aux champignons sauvages, which loosely translates to Pappardelle pasta with wild mushrooms. I knew Crystal was not about to test my dish, since she is no fan of mushrooms. That was unfortunate for her. There is an island that sits in the middle of the St. Lawrence River near Quebec City. There they grow a large portion of the produce that is used in many of the restaurants in the city. I’m not sure what is in the soil but these were some of the best-tasting mushrooms that I have ever consumed.

A Sweet Ending

During our evening meal, we found ourselves being waited on by multiple servers. This seemed to be a common occurrence at every table, which is why Ristorante Il Matto is well-known for its phenomenal service. By now, we were full, but there was still another course to sample. Staff decided to serve us a sampler of desserts so that we could taste a variety of sweet treats. The Bomba is a chocolate-coated doughnut that brings a richly decadent flavor. Tiramisu is served in a layered glass and ended up being my favorite.

Crystal fell in love with the Cannoli, but then again it’s one of her all-time favorite sweets. The dessert board was rounded out by a dish of Crème Brûlée. Breaking through the caramelized crust opened up a world of flavor hidden below. The three of us sampled flavors of each item, before finally gravitating to our favorites. In the end, we returned an empty board to the kitchen. Our meal had been an amazing adventure through home-cooked Italian cuisine.

Exploring Old Quebec City

After dinner, Paule led us along the cobblestone streets of Lower Town. We welcomed the opportunity to walk off a little of our dinner. As we strolled, she pointed out points of interest that are popular with tourists. Working our way to Rue de Petit Champlain, we rode the Funiculaire to the boardwalk above. This put us right behind one of Quebec City’s most notable landmarks, the Château Frontenac. Crystal and I had passed this magnificent structure multiple times, but Paule would take us on a guided tour of some inside spaces. We discovered that the inside is just as impressive as the exterior.

Art is Everywhere

We continued our walk through Upper Town. Crystal and Paule were deep in conversation. I was spending my time noting how the city has a different atmosphere at night. The shadows created from various lights add another layer of creativity to the numerous art pieces found around Quebec City. Even the business signs become artistic visuals after dark. The city is one of the safest that we have visited, especially for nighttime wandering. Everyone seemed engaged in trying to take in all of the sights, as Quebec City is a magnet for international tourism.

Architectural Artwork

During the day, we had fallen in love with the ages-old architecture found throughout Old Quebec City. While the area where we dined was filled with English design, here we noticed other influences. Clearly, the French held a lot of sway in the designs. We had been told that Quebec City is the closest thing to visit Europe that you will find in North America. What we discovered is that it has similarities, but it is truly a city unlike any other on Earth. French, English, Spanish, and even Art Deco influences are found scattered around the city.

Friendship and Food

Our evening ended up being one of the most memorable of our time in Quebec City. Having the opportunity to meet Paule face-to-face had helped cement our newfound friendship. Dinner at Ristorante Il Matto had provided more than just sustenance. This was an event that drew us into the restaurant’s concept of providing an Italian homemade meal experience. Having a guided walk through the streets at night had opened our eyes to another level of appreciation for this romantic destination. We never knew we could fall so deeply in love with a city.

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism and AML Cruises for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Welcome Aboard

AML Cruises offers a 1.5-hour sightseeing tour that blends the beauty of the city with a touch of its history. We made our way to Lower Town, where the port is found. After getting our tickets, it was time to board the AML Louis Jolliet. The crew was very welcoming and offered assistance up the gangplank. Once on board, the ship offers a variety of spaces for viewing. As we checked out some options, we ran into the captain and the person who would be offering the commentary, while we were sailing through history.

Cityscapes

While we waited for our fellow passengers to embark, we made our way inside the main dining area. Here we found an opportunity to purchase small bites to nibble on, but we chose to forego this for now. Around mid-ship, we discovered a bar area, which was serving up a variety of drinks. We decided to grab a couple of coffees, which were flavored with maple cream whiskey. Once we had these in hand, we made our way to the top deck to watch the departure. Once we had sailed out of the port, the whole city began opening up in front of us. The views of the city from this perspective certainly added another dimension to our Quebec City experience.

Falling for Montmorency

We started our cruise by heading downriver toward the Island of Orleans. This fertile slice of land sits in the middle of the St. Lawrence River and is home to the First Nations, which are the indigenous tribes. The tip of the island rests across from Montmorency Falls, which we had visited the previous day. Seeing it from this vantage point increased our admiration for this natural attraction. This was the farthest point that the ship reached, before turning back upstream.

Louis Jolliet

As we were watching the ship make its way to the waterfall, we could hear the commentary from our guest host. Now seemed like a good time to get a closer look at the show. We made our way to the other end of the top deck and found a seat near the action. Here we found that we were sailing through history with Louis Jolliet. The persona is that of a French-Canadian explorer who was born near present-day Quebec City. We listened as he related stories from the city’s earliest days.

Liquid Gold

At the end of his presentation, he directed our attention to a Quebec specialty. While we had sampled the delectable taste of maple cream whiskey in our coffee, now he was cluing us in on a different version. In the bar, they were breaking out Coureur Des Bois, which is a maple syrup infused Canadian whiskey. While we are not whiskey drinkers, per se, we decided to give it a try. The sweetness of this unusual nectar helped soften the sharpness of the whiskey. By the time we finished our drink, we had discovered a fondness for this liquor.

Taverne Louise

Back on land, we found that the maple whiskey had to whet our appetites. We decided to hang out in the port area and made our way a few blocks to Taverne Louise. The Old Port neighborhood is fun to explore and holds a variety of dining spots. We had done our research before traveling to Quebec City and found that this place was popular for its Fish & Chips. Being that we just completed our AML Cruise, it was a perfect fit to have a late lunch here. This upscale eatery was nearly empty since the lunch rush had already subsided. This allowed us to relax and enjoy the space nearly to ourselves.

Tastes of Lower Town

We started our meal with a little snack. The Tartare De Bœuf is not a usual choice for us, but the flavor was amazing. A smear of spicy mustard added a bit of punch to each bite. While we have passed over Beef Tartar in the past, this dish was surprisingly delectable. Since it was a sea day for us, we both got a plate of Fish & Chips. We quickly understood why Taverne Louis is known for its fish and chips. Made with Icelandic Cod, their battered bite is exquisite and had a pleasant crunch. The fries added a nice bit of starch, which would serve us well during our next portion of exploring. In all, we were glad that we had discovered this hidden gem.

Sailing Through History

After such an entertaining adventure, we were excited to discover more of Quebec City. The city is filled with history and intrigue. Visiting Lower Town and the Old Port areas opens up some of the oldest portions of the city. In this riverside section, we found shopping, dining, and attractions galore. Nearby, we discovered one of the oldest commercial streets in North America. With so much to see and do, you may want to book a couple of extra days for your Quebec vacation. We are sure you will find plenty to fill the time.

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Breakneck Steps

There are a few staircase choices to reach Rue du Petit Champlain, but none are more famous than the Breakneck Steps. This vertical challenge has gone by various names in the past. Originally they were dubbed Champlain Stairs, after Samuel de Champlain, the founder of Quebec City. They have also worn the monikers of Beggar’s Stairs and Lower Town Stairs. Constructed in 1635, they have obviously been restored on numerous occasions. We took these stairs on multiple visits to Rue du Petit Champlain, and each time we were amazed at the view from the top. Of course, looking up at them you find yourself facing the daunting challenge of the climb.

Sightseer’s Nirvana

Once we arrived at the bottom, the beauty of the pedestrian street unfolded in front of us. During the day, the space is packed with shoppers and tourists vying for space. If you are a fan of selfies, this seems to be a haven for this new art form. It’s hard to imagine a place more quaint and intriguing for photography. After the sun sets, the crowds continue until late into the evening. We visited at various hours to see how the atmosphere of the space changed throughout the day. While many of the boutiques run standard hours throughout the week, the weekends bring extended chances to shop. With such an exquisite setting, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to do a little perusing ourselves.

Rue du Petit Champlain Surprises

Like much of the older section of Quebec City, Rue du Petit Champlain is basically wall-to-wall buildings. In a space that was designed nearly 400 years ago, everyone clung together for protection and survival. As we strolled along the street, we found that you have to stay sharp, if you want to pick out all of the details. Blended in with the boutique shops and restaurants are a variety of artist’s galleries. It seems that each business is trying unique ways to attract the attention of those passing by.

Casse Cou

We felt like a visit to Rue du Petit Champlain wouldn’t be complete without trying out at least one of the restaurants. While our itinerary was packed full of places throughout Upper and Lower Town, we had left a couple of spaces open for discovery. We spotted this quaint little bistro, near the end of the pedestrian street. Since we noticed an empty table inside, we popped in for a quick lunch. Quebec City is home to a large amount of tourism, and here we discovered just how flexible business owners have to be to serve them all.

The usual welcome was made in French, but the owner quickly changed to English once he heard our response. This we found to be commonplace throughout the city. While we waited for our food, a Chinese couple entered the restaurant. We were amazed to hear the owner quickly switch to speaking their native tongue, as well. It was another example of how welcoming the locals are to visitors and how much they have embraced the influx of tourists.

More Poutine!

This was one of our more American-type meals in Quebec City. Crystal went simple with a Grilled Chicken Salad, while I was in the mood for some beef. My Bacon Cheeseburger came with a side order of French Fries, which would end up adding a lot of starch to my meal. An order of poutine was becoming the standard appetizer for us. It can be funny how quickly we embrace the local dishes. Of course, it is easy to do when the food is prepared with a French twist on nearly everything, including some local barbecue. Looks like a few more trips up and down the Breakneck Steps were in my future. Casse Cou loosely translates to The “Breakneck” Restaurant. It is clear that they have embraced their life below the boardwalk.

Sweet Treats

As if all of that wasn’t enough, next door we discovered La Petite Cabane à Sucre de Québec. This local confectioner offers up all kinds of sweetness. If you like the flavor of maple syrup, then this stop should be high on your list. Candies, cookies, and other treats all come in this basic flavor. It certainly makes sense, as the majority of the maple syrup production for the world comes from Quebec. After watching the creation of maple taffy, we couldn’t hold back any longer. We dove headfirst into a pair of maple-flavored ice cream cones, which even come with a maple-flavored cookie. They were oh so good.

Bypassing the Steps

While exploring Terrasse Dufferin, we noticed the entrance to the Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec. This special railway is designed to handle steep inclines. Handling the 195-foot bluff certainly requires a special piece of equipment. Like the Breakneck Steps, this unique way to scale the height has undergone multiple revisions. We had ridden a similar device that served the community in Dubuque, Iowa. The one in Quebec City does differ from its smaller relative in the Midwest. This funiculair is more of an angled elevator.

Room with a View

Since the elevator sits at a 45-degree angle, it actually travels 210 feet to reach the top of the 195-foot cliff. The ride up costs $3.50 (about $2.75US) and is well worth it when your feet are tired. An added bonus is the glass-enclosed cars, which offer great views of the port area.

Burning Off Lunch

During our Quebec City visit, we made a few visits to Rue du Petit Champlain. Not only were we drawn here for the shopping, we even ended up visiting at the end of our Ghost Walk. Traversing the Breakneck Steps became more of an event as the days passed, and we did choose to use the funiculaire a couple of times. In the end, it probably helped us maintain our weight since we were really enjoying all of the French-based preparation of meals. You may want to take advantage of this no-cost exercise program frequently during your visit, as well.

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism and Plains of Abraham Museum for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Belly Up, Boys!

The Plains of Abraham Museum is designed to help visitors get a better grasp of life during this tumultuous time in Quebec. After meeting the staff, we made our way to the exhibits. We began by learning about life in the camp. It’s important to remember that the time frame of the exhibits is based on the mid-1700s. Life was much different, and for those in military service, boredom was a constant companion. We discovered that drinking was a popular pastime, and it surprised us the volume of consumption by the average soldier and officer. We are sure this type of habit would be met with a different outlook these days.

Idle Time

Of course, drinking is often associated with other activities, and gambling was another common vice. If you combine these two activities, you can almost surely guarantee there would be some misconduct. A losing streak may be misconstrued as cheating by an opponent, which would lead to a disagreement and even fights. To keep order in camp, the punishment had to be doled out in an appropriate fashion.

Bad Behavior

The displays in the camp portion of the museum are designed to be interactive. Sliding doors reveal the answers to questions about camp life. While French is the base language in this region of Canada, English is also displayed. This made it easy for us to stay engaged with the educational exhibits. We were surprised to find out that corporal punishment was very common for enlisted soldiers to receive, in response to inappropriate behavior. Crystal even displayed one of the more common methods of correction that was used for lesser crimes.

The Coming Storm

Clearly, the mid-1700s was a tumultuous time in North America. The colonies, to the south, were beginning to experience issues with the British crown. In the Quebec region, France was feeling pressure from the same. The Seven Years’ War, which had begun in 1756, had become a global war. Although the forces included all five of the major European countries, the two leading the conflict were France and England. By the time the conflict landed in the New World, it was clear that England had its eyes set on control of North America. Quebec would become one of the last bastions of hope for France’s grasp on the Canadian portion.

Repelling the British

The British set up camps on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence River and began a bombardment campaign. This was successful in destroying nearly all of Lower Town, but the French remained dug in on top of the cliffs. It was clear that a manned attack would be needed, so the English set their sights on gaining the high ground near Montmorency Falls. Through a series of blunders and unplanned obstacles, this plan of attack failed, and the British were forced to withdraw and come up with a new plan. They would spend the rest of the summer destroying the outlying structures in the region, in an effort to cut off any support to the French.

Decisive Battle

Camp life was bereft with issues for the British forces, as an illness was spreading through the ranks. The officers could see the dire need to end the siege. By this point, we knew what was about to transpire. Our visit to Musee du Fort had shown us the entire sequence of battles that had led up to this point. While that audio-visual experience had played out the troops positioning, it was really just an overview of this monumental struggle for control. The Plains of Abraham Museum had dioramas set up, which gave us a 3D look at the conflict. We decided that what would be really cool would be for Immersion Quebec to offer a version of this portion of the war using Virtual Reality.

Changing of the Guard

We were really impressed with the use of immersive screen presentations at each of the places we visited. This really helps draw the visitor in and give a better understanding of the chain of events. Now that we had recapped the sequence of events that created the changing of the guard in the Quebec region, it was time to explore the rest of the museum. A collection of British uniforms provided a stark reminder of the change in control. Additional artifacts are displayed around the exhibit, which provides more details about the new leadership.

The Citadelle

After the war, the British saw the need for a substantial defensive position to be created on the edge of the Plains of Abraham. A large fort was considered too expensive of an undertaking, so a smaller wooden structure was constructed. After the colonies gained their independence, Britain saw the need to reinforce their defensive position along the St. Lawrence River. The walls of the city were improved before the War of 1812, which would affect both Canada and the United States. After this struggle with France for control of North America, monies were finally allotted for the building of the Citadelle.

Canada’s First National Historic Park

The Plains of Abraham received national park status in 1908, which marked the 300th anniversary of the founding of Quebec City. These days, this green oasis provides a backdrop for many local events. The park is filled with walking trails and leisurely relaxation opportunities. With its strategic placement on a cliff, it offers amazing views of the river and surrounding landscapes. We even learned that wintertime brings throngs of cross-country skiers to the park to enjoy the wide-open spaces. It looks like the changing of the guard in Quebec City has led to some great amenities. Isn’t it time for you to visit Canada’s first city?

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism and Le Promenades Fantômes for hosting our tour. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Evening Activity

Like many metropolitan cities, Quebec City has a vibrant nightlife. Throughout the various historic districts, people gather to explore the shops. Diners enjoy their evening meals while watching the passing crowds. This activity is repeated in nearly every destination we have visited. As the hours pass, we notice the crowds begin to thin. Shopkeepers wrap up their final sales, as shoppers make their way back to their homes or hotels. The mood of the city slowly transforms into solemn watching. This is the perfect setting for an outing, much like the ghost walk, we had taken in Springfield, Illinois.

Deepening Darkness

As the witching hour approached, it was time for us to make our way to our rendezvous point. Walking along Rue Dauphine, we came to the public library. Here we saw some ominous artwork laid out before the growing darkness. Quebec City is filled with amazing art, which makes traveling by foot all the more eventful. When you are visiting this city, be sure to keep your eyes peeled for these sometimes hidden wonders. The intricate architecture of the buildings that towered over us added some extra spookiness to our evening.

Our Hostess Arrives

Just across the street, we found the Morrin Centre. Our invitation to the Le Promenades Fantômes had directed us to gather in front of this historic building. Soon we saw two ghostly figures appear from the shadows. The manly figure remained just outside of the streetlights, while the woman approached our group. She welcomed us to the evening’s gathering and told us her name was Marie Rivière. I say was, since she is only the spirit of her corporeal body. Our ghostly tour began with a short overview of the building in front of us.

One must travel back to the days of New France, which is what the region was once named. At that time, this parcel held the Royal Redoubt, which was used as military barracks and to house prisoners. In 1808, the construction of a public prison began on this site. Public hangings were performed, by the city’s executioner, in the courtyard where we stood. Marie informed us that she had been the wife of Jean Rattier, who served as the fourth official executioner. It sounded like a prestigious position, but we would find out it was not what one expects.

Passing Through Time

As our tour continued, we followed Marie to a variety of locations throughout the Old City. At each stopping point, she would share stories from the early days of Quebec City. I watched from a short distance and noticed that our hostess would always tell the stories of the city’s history in the shadows. By hanging just outside of the direct light, it added an eeriness to our evening entertainment. Between historical references, she doled out bits and pieces of information about the life of an executioner in the early days of the city.

The locals were afraid of the executioner, so he and his family were forced to reside outside of the city limits. Marie’s husband had at one time been sentenced to death, but the untimely passing of the previous executioner created a job opening. Jean Rattier was offered the choice between waiting for a new executioner to be hired or taking on the role himself. We are sure that must have been an easy choice when your death is on the line.

Notable Characters

After making our way through the upper section of Old Quebec City, we followed our ghostly hostess down to Lower Town. As we approached Place Royale, our gaze fell upon the Fresco of Quebecers. This immense mural features dozens of notable characters from Quebec history. Set within the background of the city’s architecture, we noticed it blended current and historical figures. Front and center are Samuel de Champlain with Louis Jolliet standing on the staircase to his left. They were instrumental in mapping out the northeastern portion of North America.

Recognizable Landmarks

As our Le Promenades Fantômes tour approached its end, we arrived at Place Royale. This town square has cobblestone streets lined with shops and restaurants. Many of the buildings date from the 1700s. Sitting in the center of the square is Notre Dame des Victoires, which was constructed in 1688. This makes it the oldest stone church in North America. You may even recognize it from a scene in the movie “Catch Me If You Can”. As we gathered around our guide, we found ourselves standing in the area where Samuel de Champlain founded Quebec City in 1608. We wondered how many of the buildings around us had their own macabre tales hidden within their walls. We learned in Eureka Springs, Arkansas that beautiful structures, like the Crescent Hotel, can hold startling stories.

History in the Shadows

Marie completed her narration by telling us a little more about her husband’s executioner job. During those trying times, Jean Rattier would have to make many difficult decisions. He would even find himself putting his wife to death for crimes she committed. This was an unexpected ending to the storyline, but one that certainly piqued our interest. Her final story unfolded the details of her crimes and how they led to such brutal punishment. This was truly an amazing ending to a wonderful evening of stories. We thanked our hostess and watched as our group dispersed into the night.

Early Residents

After finishing our ghostly tour, we spent a short period sightseeing in the quiet darkness. Visiting Quebec City in the fall means that the night falls quickly. Being one of the safest cities in North America, nighttime is prime for exploring history in the shadows. While still in Lower Town, we had spotted this building sporting another huge mural. It is located in Petit Champlain, a neighborhood that claims to be the oldest commercial business district in North America. The images depict historical moments in this working-class neighborhood.

Still of the Night

We continued along the pedestrian avenue, eventually arriving at the Breakneck Steps. Constructed in 1635, it provides a shortcut for visitors heading to Upper Town. By now, the shops were closed and the pedestrian traffic had fallen to barely anyone. We climbed the steep stairs, as we made our way back toward our hotel. There is a different feeling when viewing a destination at night. Seeing the city lights spread out around us reminded us that we were far from home. It helps remind us how special it is to have an opportunity to travel all around North America. Do you take in the city sights during the still hours of the night?

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Downtown Destination

Exploring Old Quebec City means that we were spending lots of time behind the walls of the original town. Since our mode of travel was on foot, we knew we would be burning off plenty of calories. This meant we could indulge in the delectable culinary treasures that are found all around the city. After a visit to the Musee Du Fort, we were ready for lunch. Fortunately, Le Chic Shack is right around the corner. We mean literally in the same building. Talk about convenience.

Blueprint for Success

If you plan on building the perfect burger, it’s important to have a blueprint for success. We were discovering that a majority of restaurants in Quebec City utilize standard practices that are frequently found in French cooking. This includes attention to detail that far surpasses the backyard grilling, which produces so many burger meals in America. Here they plan out the assembly down to the finest detail. We were sure this would produce results that would be memorable.

Robust Menu

When the menus were handed out, we were surprised to see that there was a reasonably manageable number of items to choose from. Many restaurants will bombard customers with a plethora of choices, yet often fail to deliver on the basics. Not at Le Chic Shack. Here they have honed the menu to include four major entree groups. Building the perfect burger comes first, but guests can add to their meal with chips, salads, or one of their popular poutines. Since we had experienced our first poutine the previous evening, we decided to stay the course with burgers. Even then we had to choose between beef, chicken, venison, or a veggie patty.

Keeping it Le Chic

Crystal decided to keep it simple by ordering the basic burger, which they call Le Chic. A juicy beef patty is nestled on a fresh tomato slice and topped with maple-smoked bacon, lettuce, pickles, cheddar cheese, and their housemade Chic Sauce. It’s important to note that they use fresh ingredients that are sourced locally to ensure the highest quality. While this may sound like a standard burger, it is created in a fashion that will appease even the pickiest burger aficionado. For her side, Crystal chose the Sweet Potato Fries, which makes a good accompaniment for their burgers.

Or Perhaps Le Shack

At this restaurant, you can’t have Chic without Shack, so I selected Le Shack. Using the same high-quality beef patty as a base, they toss on some red-ale braised beef for extra heartiness. These are topped with Cantonnier cheese, which supplies a nutty twist that includes a fruity-flavored base. Building a perfect burger means adding complex layers of flavor, and Le Chic Shack has this nailed down. Adding Horseradish aioli and Chic Sauce packs on an additional burst of flavors. When I selected their Homemade Chips as a side dish, I didn’t realize it came with a maple syrup drizzle. I should have known that there had to be some way to incorporate the national flavor into our meal.

A Foodie Paradise

We were less than 24 hours into our Quebec City visit and we had already consumed three amazing meals. It was obvious that the local attractions would be challenged to match the memorable dishes that we would certainly find in Canada’s original city. We were confident that no matter where our hunger led us, we would find incredible foods. This means we could focus on just enjoying our time in this historic city and rest assured our meals would all be magnificent. For now, it was time to go walk off some of those calories and prepare for our next meal.

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism and Immersion Quebec for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Strap In

Our visit to the Musee du Fort had given us a good background on one of Quebec City’s most notable historical events. With this knowledge fresh in our minds, we stopped at Immersion Quebec for a virtual history tour. The staff members were very welcoming and walked us through the three-phase experience. The whole event lasts for about 1 1/2 hours, so we felt that the admission price was quite reasonable. It was determined that our first experience would be the VR Phase (Virtual Reality). Participants are invited to gear up for a walk through the early days of Quebec City. Goggles and headphones help visitors immerse themselves in the whole experience.

Making Room

Once we were all geared up, it was time to get ready to travel through time. The tour is available in French, English, Spanish, and Mandarin languages. With three phases included in a visit, the staff has options to get new groups engaged quickly. There was a group competing in the GO Phase, (We’ll go over that in a bit.) so that is why we started with the virtual history tour portion. Now that we were all set, the staff member started up the video and we were whisked back in time.

Virtual History Tour

As you can see from the preview video above, the virtual history tour takes visitors back to the earliest days of human inhabitation in this region. As we moved forward in time, we learned about the natives who were already in the area when the first European explorers arrived. The founding of Quebec City fills a portion of the show, before giving way to the significant battle for control of the territory. After this tumultuous period, we were led through the period of industrial revolution and growth that has made the city so successful. When you are in this portion of the visit, be sure to look all around, since the virtual experience covers 360° of your field of view. I enjoyed watching the birds and clouds pass by overhead, as well as seeing the various people on the edges of the main scene.

XP Phase

Now that we had a working knowledge of the history of Quebec City, it was time to put it to test our retention. During the XP Phase, visitors explore the main space of Immersion Quebec, while they study a series of displays. First, we had to create avatars on our hand-held tablets. This place really engages technology to help bring the past to life. Once we had our characters selected, we could make our way to the checkpoints.

Bringing History to Life

Each exhibit offered a glimpse into a different aspect of life and business in the Quebec City region. One exhibit explored the chain of forts that would have been found all across the North American continent. Obviously, many of these fell to the wayside as the wildlands became tamed. Another display explored the wildlife that drew trappers to the lands. Here they found an abundance of beaver to harvest for their desirable pelts. The beaver became such an important part of life that it actually appears on the multiple coat-of-arms.

GO Phase

Now that we had absorbed all of this Quebec history, it was time for a little friendly competition. The GO Phase pits each person, by means of their avatars, in a head-to-head trivia contest. A series of questions are asked, that focus on topics shown during the virtual history tour or at one of the learning stations. With each question being multiple-choice, everyone has a chance to get them right. Each player’s avatar is positioned in a barrel at the top of Montmorency Falls. With each incorrect answer, the avatar inches closer to the edge of the falls. The contest is completed when only one player remains above the falls. For our competition, I came out as the victor.

Experience Immersion Quebec

We wrapped up our virtual history tour and thanked the staff for all of their assistance. It was obvious that they enjoy seeing others immerse themselves in their city’s history. Even before we arrived in Quebec City, we knew that learning more about this beautiful city would be a high priority. Being surrounded by the over 300-year-old structures, really made us appreciate the stories that are held within the city’s walls. As we departed Immersion Quebec, we knew that we had a fun story of our own to share. How many of you have experienced a virtual history tour?

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We want to thank Quebec City Tourism for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Cozy Setting

After a half-day of traveling from Kansas City to Quebec City, (We also lost two hours to time zone changes.) we were ready to stretch our legs. Once we had settled ourselves into our lodging at Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil, we headed out for an evening meal. A block from the hotel, we landed on Rue Saint-Louis, which is lined with shops and boutique eateries. While strolling along, we found that each restaurant had a sample of their menu posted near their doorway. This helped us to identify the best place to start our dining experiences in Quebec City.

Prior to our trip, I had reached out to some of the locals in the area through one of their Facebook group pages. I have found this to be a great source for suggestions since the locals always know the hidden gems. One thing that was mentioned frequently was sampling poutine. While we were in a pizza kind of mood, discovering that Cafe L’Omelette had both poutine and pizza on the menu made our decision easy. We popped into this quaint little diner and got seated.

Open-Air Dining

The timing of our trip was early September, so there was a fall feeling in the air. While the temperatures can swing drastically, our time in Quebec City brought comfortable weather. It was even nice enough for the restaurant to have the windows propped open. This added a charming appeal to our visit and made for a romantic experience. The flower boxes added a pop of color and the passing crowds made it feel almost like patio seating.

We were only a couple of hours into our visit and we were already soaking up the European feel of Old Quebec. Now for a chance to sample a truly Canadian dish and one that was founded in the Quebec region. Finding a spot that was frequented by the locals and that served this specialty dish was a home run for us. This was as exciting as sampling a horseshoe in Springfield, Illinois.

A Quebec Original

You may not be familiar with poutine since it is primarily a Canadian dish. There are basically three ingredients that make up this carb-rich snack. French fries, cheese curds, and brown gravy seemed to us like an odd combination, but once we tasted it we could understand how it became so popular. The origin of this dish is a little vague, but they know it was started in the 1950s. It began as a snack food served up at sporting events, and at greasy spoon diners. Most of the time it was found in the countryside since it requires fresh cheese curds to have the best taste.

As time moved along, access to fresh ingredients became commonplace in cities, so the dish found its way into Quebec City around 1970. Through the years many restaurants have tweaked the recipe to add an air of sophistication to the dish. This has allowed it to move beyond the average bar and into some of the finest dining establishments in Canada. A short discussion with staff uncovered the secret to successful poutine. The cheese curds and gravy must be added at the last moment so they don’t make the fries soggy. While many dishes on the menus of Quebec restaurants have distinct French ties, poutine is definitely all Canadian.

Canadian Pie

As I mentioned earlier, we were actually in the mood for pizza. I suppose this happens to us due to the desire for salt after a long period of air travel. (Have you ever felt this effect?) Since the poutine and pizza would offer a substantial amount of hunger quenching carbs, we decided a smaller pie would be plenty for the two of us. With about half of a dozen topping combinations to choose from, we decided to stick with a simple pepperoni pizza. Cafe L’Omelette doesn’t hold back on the yeast when preparing their dough, so we had a delightfully puffy crust coated with a rich, flavorful sauce.

Walking Off the Carbs

After completing our meal, it was time to do a little exploring. Being a day dedicated mainly to travel, we had left our itinerary open for discovery. Stepping out of the restaurant, we continued our trek down Rue Saint-Louis. At the end of the street, we found ourselves in front of Chateau Frontenac, which is one of the most photographed structures in the world. This marked the edge of Upper Town, so we turned the corner and began our descent into Lower Town. Following the contour of the city walls, we soon found ourselves looking up at the cliffs far above. The Funiculaire is a vertical railway that carries passengers up and down the 194-foot hillside. We watched as the cars moved along the pathway, but we decided to save a ride for another day.

A Prelude to History

We continued our stroll through Lower Town and were amazed at the feeling of age that surrounded us. This was not in a tired way, but a respect for the history that this city has experienced. Quebec City began in 1608 with a small square that can still be identified today. In many of the cities that we visit, we find some nice street art, but here they take it to a new level. There are multiple buildings that have huge murals depicting scenes from the past. It was a beautiful reminder that we were experiencing something special. As we walked off our poutine and pizza meal, we soaked in the charming atmosphere of the historic city.

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We want to thank Quebec Cite Tourism for hosting our visit. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Quebec City – The Early Years

Upon entering the Musee Du Fort, we found ourselves climbing a staircase to the second-floor attraction. The staircase is lined with educational background information on the early days of the city. The first explorer to the region was Jacques Cartier, who claimed it for France in 1535. At that time, he found a city of Iroquois residing in what is now Quebec City. Fast forward 60 years and Samuel de Champlain would create the trading post that would mark the start of this magnificent city. The name is derived from the Algonquin word “Kebec”, which means “where the river narrows.

Being located on a bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River gave the city a strategic advantage. Over time, a city grew around and below the bluff. In those earlier days, the city was split between two distinct areas. Upper Town was on top of the bluff and contained most of the colonial elites and government officials. Lower Town sat along the river’s edge and was home to the merchants and working class. By 1700, nearly two-thirds of the citizens of Quebec City resided in Lower Town.

Defending Their Space

The French regime was marked with significant population growth in the region. By 1750, around 60,000 people lived in and around the area, and Quebec City functioned as the principal municipality. The first fort, named Fort Saint-Louis, was built on the site of Quebec City in 1626. While the British would occupy it for a short period around 1629, the French would regain control in 1632. The English would attempt an assault in 1690, but the strategic advantage of the high ground prevented the British ships from ever making a ground attack. They would make another unsuccessful attempt in 1711. It was looking as though Quebec City would remain under French control for a long time.

Scheduled Stop

Now that we had a basic grasp on the atmosphere of the region in the mid-1700s, it was time to check out more. At the top of the staircase, we found the admissions desk for the museum. The cost for admission to the show is $8.50 per adult (about $6.40 in U.S. dollars) The Musee Du Fort offers visitors a light and sound show that walks them through key moments in the city’s history. Most of these pertain to military actions, which occurred in the 1700s. The show lasts for about a half-hour, so we had a few minutes to wait for the group that was already inside the theater.

It’s Our Turn

After a short wait, the doors to the theater opened. We filed inside and a staff member gave us a short overview of what we were about to experience. After choosing our seats, we found a model of Quebec City laid out in front of us. We learned that it was a model of the city around 1750 and included the surrounding region. After the briefing, our attendant began the show. The wall behind the model is actually a widescreen. This is where the history of one of the most crucial periods of the city is played out.

The story begins with a basic understanding of Quebec City’s place in the New World. Britain and France seem to have been at odds for what seems like centuries because it actually has been. The New World opened up another arena for the two world powers to struggle over. France had made major inroads in Canada, as well as controlling Saint-Domingue in the Caribbean. The British had acquired Jamaica from Spain and had a foothold in America with the thirteen colonies. To protect their investment, France had constructed a series of forts along the St. Lawrence River.

Early Skirmishes

As the program moved us forward in time, we saw the events we had learned about in the staircase. Seeing them played out on the map helped us gain a better perspective of how the unique landscape had a bearing on each skirmish. For those American tourists, it should be noted that this experience is presented on the hour in English, so we were able to understand all of the media. Time-traveling in Quebec City, we arrived at 1753, which signaled the start of the Seven Years’ War between England and France.

While this war took place around the globe, the part that happened in North America is referred to as the French and Indian War. The goal of both the French and British was to gain control over the Upper Midwest region. George Washington led a British expedition, which would end up in a showdown with French forces. Each side had its partners, and the early years of the struggle brought French victories. This would soon change.

The British Advance

The summer of 1758 was a turning point in North America. In July, French defenders pushed back an assault by British forces on Fort Carillon (Americans know this as Fort Ticonderoga). After this defeat, British forces began a series of wins that brought them control of the Atlantic seaboard. English ships sailed up the St, Lawrence River on their way to assault Quebec City. The French were not caught unprepared. They had arranged 12,000 troops in a series of defensive positions from the Saint-Charles River to Montmorency Falls.

After repelling an assault near the falls, the British came up with a new approach. Beginning north of the city, they began destroying outlying buildings. The siege of Quebec City included this systematic destruction of the supply chain for the French troops stationed inside the walled city. While the siege took place, British forces made plans for another assault.

Decisive Victory

Seeing that they were unable to draw out the French forces, a bold move would be needed. The British commander decided to launch an assault from the western side of the city. To do this, they navigated upstream and approached from the base of a 170-foot tall cliff. The French soldiers guarding this passage were expecting supply ships, so they were not suspicious of the activity. This was but one of a series of unexpected circumstances that led to the British making landfall. A small party was sent scrambling up the cliff to secure a small road that would give access to the main British force.

When the French command discovered the British position, they did the one thing that would assure defeat. Instead of holing up in their garrison and awaiting reinforcements, they marched out onto the plains to do battle. The series of unfortunate circumstances continued to plague the French, and the battle lasted less than an hour. While both sides would suffer considerable casualties, the French fared worse. A state of confusion spread through the French troops who abandoned Quebec City and marched north to meet up with the rest of their forces. The battle on the Plains of Abraham signaled the beginning of the end for French control in North America.

Time Traveling in Quebec City

The presentation continued to walk us through more conflicts, culminating around the time of the revolutionary war in America. With the ending credits from the show running, we now had a better understanding of how a country associated with England has so much of a French connection. Time-traveling in Quebec City was different from most of the cities we have visited. With a history that we were so unfamiliar with, it seemed like everything we experienced was fresh and new. As we made our way back into the cloudy afternoon, our eyes were seeing the city with a new vision. It was clear that this trip would be an educational opportunity we would relish for a lifetime.

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Once we were in Quebec City, we found ourselves dining at some amazing eateries. Being a French-based population, they take pride in the execution of their dishes, and many could be considered works of art. With all of this attention to detail, we were wondering how it would be applied to the smoking of meats. After all, many Americans have been doing it for years and still struggle with consistency. As the days and meals were checked off of our itinerary, the anxiously awaited time for our visit finally arrived.

We want to thank Quebec Cite Tourism and Faite à l’os for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

The Total Experience

We had arranged to meet for dinner at Faite á l’os. When speaking with Emmanuel, I had mentioned lunch, but he was quick to point out that the barbecue is only served at dinner time. The restaurant is designed to handle a certain number of guests and he wants to ensure that all receive an amazing experience. This particular comment raised my expectations since it was clear that he understood the importance of delivering an out-of-this-world experience.

When we entered the restaurant, we were immediately impressed with the mix of urban and homey decor. The southern rock soundtrack playing in the background added a bit of grit to the atmosphere. Emmanuel came out of the kitchen to greet us and give a little more background on his barbecue philosophy. We discovered he’s not some guy who read a bunch of BBQ books and decided to open a restaurant. He spent time in the United States honing his craft for making outstanding ‘cue. Of course, knowing that we were from the BBQ capital of the world, he was interested in hearing our opinion.

Surf & Turf

In cases like this, we are open to uncovering the menu at a pace chosen by staff. Emmanuel asked if he could serve us a variety of plates so that we would have a good feel for the extent of his mastery of barbecue. Obviously, the opportunity to sample a broad spectrum sounded like a perfect way to get a true feel for his style. After all, we have tested many versions of barbecue and found that each comes with its specific notes of flavor.

His first dish was Surf & Turf. This little gem does not have a permanent place on the dinner menu, but he brings it out when the mood hits him. We were certainly glad that he was in the right mood because this dish was a perfect way to start a meal. This delightful plate is a combination of smoked bacon and scallops, topped with a jalapeno sauce. The addition of dollops of lime sour cream helps add a creamy texture to this smoky appetizer. It’s hard to describe how flavorful such a light dish can become with the right chef at the helm. Clearly, Emmanuel has a grasp on seafood.

Smoke on the Water

To show his flexibility with water creatures, our next dish was Smoke on the water. This well-dressed appetizer is created with a slice of smoked trout that has been seasoned with bourbon and maple. Situated on a bed of celery rémoulade, fennel, and sour cream, it had such a delicate smoky flavor that played on our taste buds. Even Crystal, a person adverse to any seafood or fish dish, couldn’t get enough of this one. We could see that this evening was going beyond the standard ribs and fries of a Kansas City BBQ joint.

Bad to the Bone

With the main course up next, Emmanuel took the time to walk through what we were about to be served at Faite á l’os. The Bad to the Bone combo is usually designed to feed two people. He continued by saying what he means by “feeding two people”, is that it stuffs them, and many have left-overs. Since ours was to be a four-course meal, he wanted to make sure we had room left after this serving. To accomplish this, he was cutting the servings about in half, so that we would still have all of the tastes of the standard platter. When he brought out the tray, my mouth just about hit the floor.

This heady platter was filled with scrumptious delights. Half of a smoked chicken weighs down one side of the tray, while the balance is brought with a thick slab of smoked brisket on the other end. Both of these meats were tender and flavorful, which shows Emmanuel’s grasp on the fine art of barbecue. Two tasty bones of St. Louis-style ribs are ample proof of his ability to deal with pork. To stay true to the BBQ lifestyle, he adds sides of Coleslaw and potato salad to round out the platter. There was even a couple slices of cornbread on the plate, as well as two types of barbecue sauce.

Let’s get something straight. When I first identified a barbecue restaurant in Quebec City, I did not hold high expectations. For me, it seemed more of a novelty to find this cuisine so far from our home. The original goal had just been to show that different cuisines can be found all over North America. Now I was facing the fact that this Canadian chef had taken one of my favorite cuisines to a level I had never experienced. As he spoke about his smoking methods, it all seemed so precise, like what would be found in a college chemistry textbook more than a recipe card. It was becoming clear that Emmanuel was bringing the French style for precise results to bear on one of my favorite foods.

Sugar Pie Honey

With our heads reeling from our evening of smoky delights, we couldn’t imagine any way Emmanuel could add to our pleasure. After clearing the table, he brought out one of the only things that would keep us eating, dessert. Once again, he outdid himself by serving up two options that struck home with us. The Maple Sugar Pie ended up being a delight for Crystal. She described it as being similar to the base flavor of the best Pecan Pie she has tasted. Filled with rich Quebec maple flavor, it was fun watching her gobble it up.

Once the plate was photographed, I did a quick spin, so it landed the Carrot Cake in front of me. Little did Emmanuel realize, but this is one of my all-time favorites. The flavor of this slice was hard to beat. It had all the hearty flavors of a nutty cake sandwiched between layers of sweet cream cheese frosting. All of the taste was there without being too sweet to taste the rich tones of the cake. What a great way to end a perfect evening of American, err…Canadian cuisine.

Visiting a Quebec Smoke House

We will be the first to admit that we are not barbecue judges, but we have been to our share of contests and tasted plenty of versions of this smoky cuisine. After dining at Faite á l’os, it was obvious that they had taken barbecue to a new level. By bringing the intensity of French cooking to bear on this cuisine, they have created some unbelievable dishes. During our conversations with Emmanuel, he noted that the passion they have for barbecue is meant to be sampled in manageable numbers. They aren’t pushing to expand to serve huge numbers. For them, the idea of perfecting their BBQ skills and offering up memorable experiences are the main goals. We have to admit that those are pretty lofty goals, but they are definitely on the right track.

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To make sure we were able to accomplish this goal, Quebec Cite Tourism arranged for us to have a guided tour. It was decided we would start our first full day with the tour. This offered a chance to gain a better grasp of the history of Canada’s oldest city. After a delicious breakfast at our hotel, we met up with our guide for a morning adventure.

We want to thank Quebec Cite Tourism, Cicerone Tours, and Parc de la Chute-Montmorency for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Jacques Knows

Our guide, Jacques Baillargeon, was fluent in English. It is important to remember that French is the standard language you will hear in Quebec City. Most of the shopkeepers and restaurant workers are well-versed in English, as well. This makes the historic city a perfect vacation destination for travelers from the United States. Cicerone Tours is a tour operation company that offers a wide range of experiences. For our tour, Jacques had arranged a car to make access to the falls, which are about 8 miles from downtown, more manageable.

Our tour was a little different than their standard offerings since it was being customized for us. A short discussion with Jacques and he understood what we wanted to accomplish. It was decided to let him take the reins and determine the sequence of places we would visit. He wanted to make sure we saved time to take a drive around Old City, but first, we would see Montmorency Falls.

First Sight

As we approached the area from the south, the falls came into view. Montmorency falls is one of the most accessible natural attractions we have visited. It is easily visible from land, as well as the St. Lawrence River. (We would view it again on our AML Cruise.) Standing over 270 feet tall, it is almost 100 feet taller than Niagara Falls. Of course, it is much narrower, but still quite impressive. After parking the car, we made our way to the visitor’s center. The roar of the falls would be a constant reminder of the power of nature.

Heading Up

There are a couple of ways to the top of Montmorency Falls. Cable cars are the easiest and quickest way up, and the transit choice we used. There is also a series of staircases (487 steps) that lead to the ridge on top. During research for this trip, we had watched some videos of people using the stairs. In each video, they would all get drenched by the mist from the falling waters. With a steady drizzle falling, we decided that climbing the stairs would be a soggy adventure. Jacques arranged for us to have one-way tickets, while he would drive up to the top for our return.

Montmorency Manor

Once our cable car arrived at the top, our attention was immediately drawn to the palatial estate named Manoir Montmorency. This sprawling structure was used as a summer residence for English royalty. The first residence was constructed on this site in 1780. During the ate 1700s, the Duke of Kent would visit each year. In 1993, calamity struck when the manor burned to the ground. Manoir Montmorency was rebuilt as a replica of the original grand building and now houses an interpretation center, gift shop, and restaurant.

History Lesson

The interpretation center is contained in one gallery, so it doesn’t take long to explore. Here we found displays focused on the history and construction of the manor. There are also some informational placards that explain the historical significance of the falls in general. We also found lots of interesting tidbits about famous people who have been associated with this magnificent destination.

Powerful Purposes

While the beauty of the falls is enough for us, it has also been used for commerce and recreation. In the early 1800s, the land near the base of Montmorency Falls was home to a hydraulic sawmill. Moving timber down the river was much easier than overland transportation. With more than 90 saws in operation, it could produce upwards of 800,000 feet of boards per day. In the mid-1880s, a hydroelectric generation plant would be constructed on the Montmorency River. Before the end of that century, Quebec City would become the first city in North America to utilize hydroelectric power.

The freezing cold winters may freeze the falls, but they do not hamper the adventurous spirits of Quebec City residents. Many people travel to the icy wonderland for sledding and ice climbing., and these activities have been going on for generations.

Montmorency Falls Fun

After our visit to the interpretation center, we met back up with Jacques. He led us along the path that leads to the top of the falls. As we walked along the wooden boardwalk, he unfolded more of the history of the region. At the end of the long boardwalk, we came to a staircase that led down to the Baroness’s Gazebo. This covered deck offers a better feel for the power of the waterfall. Jacques pointed our attention to a series of cables that run across the face of the falls. On the far side, we spotted a platform used to launch zip-liners across the divide.

Even with a steady drizzle, there were still people waiting in line for this activity. While I have enjoyed zip-lining across the 2nd largest canyon in the United States, I chose to pass on this particular activity. We paused long enough to watch a pair of adventurous souls enjoy the ride of their lives before we made our way to the top of the falls.

Over The Edge

A short climb up the last few steps deposited us on the suspension bridge that spans the head of Montmorency Falls. From here, we could see, hear, and feel the power of the falling waters. Looking over the edge of the bridge, we could see the swirling waters at the base of the falls. While logging isn’t an ongoing activity these days, we could still spot some logs that had passed over the highest waterfall in the Quebec region. On the other side of the bridge, we found access to the long staircase. Since Jacques had driven to the parking lot near the manor house, we didn’t have to brave the 487 steps down.

Back On Top

We returned across the bridge and made our way toward the car. In a park-like setting behind the manor, we spotted some unique statues. Jacques pointed out that these were produced by local artists. We noted that this would be a nice place to picnic, but perhaps on a day that wasn’t so wet. Time for us to continue our tour of Quebec City.

Getting a Lay of the Land

Jacques navigated back to Old Quebec, which is the historic neighborhood of Quebec City. Our lodging was located in Upper Town, so he decided to treat us to some sights in Lower Town. As he passed through the narrow streets, we were amazed at all of the art that is found in the city. In each new location, Jacques would share some key historical information, as well as some personal stories. Our time with him was such a treat.

We wish our tour could have lasted the entire day so that we could enjoy more of his stories. Unfortunately, like all good things, this too had to end. He shared a few more memories with us, as he steered us back to our hotel. Once there, we said our goodbyes to Jacques. Even though we had only spent one morning together, we felt as though we had become fast friends. This is one of those added benefits of travel. It allows us to expand our friend’s circle to encompass new destinations.

Keeping Our Eyes Peeled

Our experience with Jacques had shown us that it was important to keep our eyes peeled for interesting sights. Exploring the Old City was such an entertaining adventure. The trips we have made to New Orleans have given us a taste of European style, but Quebec City took it to a whole new level. The next few days would be filled with the wonder of the Old World, mixed with the urban appeal of a metropolitan city. This is clearly the best of both worlds.

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One of the first things we look for in lodging is boutique hotels. We have found that they offer an intimate experience, and are often priced reasonably close to standard hotels. It also means that we will be supporting a locally owned business, in most cases. The Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil is a small family-owned lodging option that puts us inside the walled city. Being our first Canadian trip, we had chosen Quebec City for its history and European-style charm. Everyone told us that it had the look of a European city with the welcoming spirit of Canada. Clearly we were in for the best of both worlds.

We want to thank Quebec Cite Tourism and Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Historic Charm √

After arriving in Quebec City, we were eager to see our hotel. The Old City is made up of Upper Town and Lower Town. Our hotel was located in the upper portion, which is the only fortified city north of Mexico. While the walls of the Old City are no longer needed for defensive purposes, a large portion of them still stand. In the coming days, we would have a chance to learn about the history of Quebec City, which we will share in upcoming articles. As we passed through one of the massive stone gates, we felt as though we had traveled back in time.

Our taxi pulled up in front of the hotel and we were immediately checking all the boxes for charm and quaintness. Space is a premium inside of a walled city, so each building butts up to the next. To provide green spaces, there are window boxes lining the walls of most buildings. We had the added benefit of being directly across the street from Esplanade Park, which offers green space with shaded seating. After retrieving our luggage from the trunk, we made our way into the hotel.

Boutique Bedding √

The staff was very welcoming and quickly changed from French to English to accommodate us. While I attempted to learn a few phrases in French, it ended up being completely unnecessary. As we traversed the city, each stop we would encounter locals. A common introduction would be “Bonjour”, which was immediately followed by “Hello”. People in Quebec City are fluent in both languages, for the most part. There were a couple of times that we struggled with the language barrier on specific words, but in every instance, the people were extremely patient with us.

We were escorted to our room and staff gave us a quick background of the hotel. Our bed and breakfast package included a morning meal for each of us, which adds $12.00 per person per night. We felt that this was quite an affordable bargain, since it included our morning coffee, as well. Little did we know that the breakfasts at Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil would be incredibly memorable events. For now, we explored our room before heading out to check out some sights. We have relaxed standards on our lodging selections since we spend a minimal amount of time in our room. In hindsight, we wish we would have enjoyed long periods in the comfort that our space afforded us.

Amazing Location √

Our travel from Kansas City to Quebec City had taken about five hours. That doesn’t include the nearly one-hour layover we experienced in Philadelphia. We didn’t think about it for this trip, but in the future may alter our travel plans to include more time in that city. We had a chance to experience some of it on an earlier visit, but barely scraped the surface of this historic city. (You can see that story here.) By the time we stepped back out of the door of our hotel darkness had fallen across the city.

We decided to head around the corner for dinner since one of the nearby streets is well-known for its restaurants. After dinner, we strolled around the Old City taking in the beauty of it all. Quebec City was founded at the start of the 1600s, which made it the oldest city we have ever visited. It felt so historic to walk through the neighborhoods and we soon found ourselves at one of the city gates. Passing through the St. Louis Gate brought us up to the Parliament Building. It was hard to imagine that our hotel was only two blocks away. After taking in the atmosphere for a while, we made our way back to our hotel. We had a big day planned and wanted to be well-rested.

Comfortable Common Spaces √

Before heading up to our room, I decided to check out the dining room in our hotel. I was checking all the boxes for a perfect stay and needed to know what to expect. As we stepped through the doorway, we were surprised by the metropolitan decor. It was hard to imagine that we were in a city that was over 400 years old. The dining room offered multiple levels of seating options, including an outdoor patio. The hotel only has 27 rooms, so it appeared that they were capable of handling a sizable crowd. We made our way to our room with anticipation of a French breakfast.

Feeling French √

The morning dawned with hopes of a beautiful day. Traveling to Quebec City in September opens up the opportunity for cool and rainy weather. We pride ourselves in always being prepared for what nature wants to throw at us. That is, as long as we get breakfast. After preparing for our day of exploring, we made our way downstairs. Passing the front desk, we heard our first “Bonjour” of the day. It would take us a couple of days to start responding in like manner, so, for now, it was just Good Morning. The one constant that we came to anticipate was the smile that accompanied the greeting.

A small ramp leads up to the dining area, where we found a few tables already occupied. A staff member instructed us that seating was open to choice. We dropped our bags and headed to the coffee station. By the time we returned to our table, the staff had left menus. The smell of freshly baked croissants filled the air, but I was set on sampling their crepes. To me, it seemed like the best way to evaluate their food. What we would discover was that the staff at Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil bring the cream of the crop to the tables every morning. This lesson would be repeated every day during our visit.

Checking All the Boxes

Each morning we would find ourselves exploring more of the menu. The one constant was the way they could continue to amaze us. Everything was so fresh. We would learn that the fruit is grown on a nearby island that has soil perfect for crops. As a matter of fact, most of the restaurants we visited source their fruits and vegetables from this island. Another good lesson was that the freshest croissants are to be had at precisely 7:30 in the morning when they were retrieved from the oven. You can bet that we learned to be in the dining room right on time.

Nearby Daytime Destinations √

Each day was filled with exploring the Old City. The idea of being able to walk to so many historic sights with ease was incredible. Checking all the boxes for being tourist-friendly was easy in Quebec City. The city is built on a hill, which provided the calorie-burning opportunities that allowed us to dine in style without worry. Obviously there are ways to get around without all of the climbing, and we would learn to use them when we were in a hurry. Visiting the Parliament Building during daylight hours revealed the amazing architecture involved in its creation.

As the days passed, we were becoming familiar with the city and its long and storied history. It became apparent that even with four days to explore, we would hardly scratch the surface of what this capital city has to offer. Oh well, that just means we would have to make a return visit sometime in the future. For now, we would just focus on what we could experience in the time allotted.

But, Oh Those Breakfasts! √

During our stay, we were introduced to so many unique dishes. The city is filled with some of the finest cuisines in the world, but oh those breakfasts. It seemed like each morning the staff at the hotel would outdo themselves. Have you ever felt like sleeping in during a vacation? This was an urge that we could easily pass up since we knew what would be waiting for us in the dining room. Even something so simple as a Ham and Cheese Croissant Sandwich took on an air of sophistication at the Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil.

Paradise Found √

Our time in Quebec City passed too quickly. We did a good job of exploring the Old City, and we look forward to sharing our many experiences with you. Our hope is that we will show you that a visit to our neighbors to the north will yield a vacation that you will remember for a lifetime. Remember that when checking all the boxes, a great home-base is the key to a wonderful stay. We highly recommend the Hotel Manoir d’Auteuil for its friendly staff, charming atmosphere, and unbelievable cuisine. Bon Voyage!

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