Time in Grand Junction

While planning for an Epic Road Trip can require many hours of research, it’s what happens along the road that becomes our memories. Traveling through 11 states, in as many days, means lots of driving time. Positioning some strategic hiking times allowed us to keep our blood pumping. Facing a long drive back home, we felt the desire to take in lots of nature during this last hurrah. Colorado National Monument has been enjoyed by countless numbers since being established in 1911. We began the 23-mile drive at the western entrance to the park.

Morning Visitors

The main path is named Rimrock Drive and for good reason. All along the route, visitors are supplied with jaw-dropping views of the varied landscape. We proceeded slowly, so we could take it all in. Periodically, we would see bicycle riders pedaling through the hills and peaks that wind throughout the plateau. Since entering the park, it felt as though we had been constantly climbing, so we were impressed by those willing to challenge the park on a bike. Besides our human counterparts, we also spotted a group of bighorn sheep grazing along the side of the road. This was another sign that we were in High Plains territory.

On Top of the World

Our first hiking stop landed us at the visitors center. Behind the building, we found a rim trail that offers amazing views into the canyons. Seeing the monuments jutting skyward left us in awe of the powers of nature. The hard stone is layered with sandstone, which erodes to form these visually stunning displays. This rim trail was offering us plenty of stopping points, each offering its unique perspective.

Hidden Paths

Back to the car to continue our slow drive through the park. There are three tunnels that visitors navigate during their trip along Rimrock Drive. As we approached them, the hidden views beyond allowed our minds to wonder what stunning sights were awaiting us. They estimate the drive to take one hour, but that doesn’t account for stops. We knew that our time in the park would far surpass the estimate.

Morning Views

The engineers who designed the path made sure to include plenty of pull-offs. These are strategically placed to include views of some of the most dramatic views inside the park. At the Coke Ovens Overlook, we discovered one of the more unusual formations. These buff-colored monuments do resemble blast furnaces used in the steel industry and we were left to wonder why they had such an unusual shape. Whatever the reason, we were glad that we got to witness them firsthand.

Colorado National Monument

Continuing eastward, we were treated to more iconic views. Places with names like; Artists Point, Highland View, Cold Shivers Point, and Devil’s Kitchen all tempted us to investigate further. Trails abound throughout Colorado National Monument, but time only allowed for us to investigate a few. We did attempt to stop at as many of the pull-offs, as possible. Seeing the monuments from different directions offered diverse perspectives.

Wrapping Up Another Epic Road Trip

While our time in Colorado National Monument was limited, we stretched it out as long as we could. We find solace in the rugged beauty of the mountains and try to soak up every inspirational moment possible. While we love our home in Kansas, our excursions to the mountains are always a thrill. We have decided that living in the mountains would probably create an opportunity for us to lose our amazement with them, so we will just have to take them in with our periodic visits. Where do you find your favorite mountain views?

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Pre-dawn Gathering

Arches National Park was about 40 minutes away, but we also planned to begin our visit at the back of the park. This would hopefully let us avoid some of the crowds until later in the day. After grabbing some coffee and snacks, we made our way through the dark to the park entrance. Having purchased our America The Beautiful park pass during our visit to the Badlands, we were able to breeze through. Driving through the park in the dark left us less than impressed. We knew there were highlights just outside of our field of view. After parking at Delicate Arch, we used our flashlights to make our way to the viewpoint. The gathering light slowly expanded across the horizon, which we took in from our perch under the arch. We, along with the others gathered under the arch, stood in awe of the hues and shades of red that became visible as the sun rose.

Arches Come Into View

Now that we could see our surroundings, we knew that we could stay here for much more than one day. Before heading back up the road, we hiked to another cluster of arches. This park is home to more than 2000 of these intriguing natural structures. The sandstone is the perfect medium for wind and rain to work on. Coupled with eons of time, nature has created pinnacles, balancing rocks, and colossal fins all across the landscape.

Balancing Act

Whenever we changed locations, we would spot some wonders that made us stop in our tracks. Fortunately, they have plentiful pull-offs and parking lots. Many are used by day hikers to get them close to the trailheads. While scaling of arches or balancing rocks is prohibited, the park does allow guests to scurry around more stable and sturdy sites. Hiking is the thing to do here and we saw many heading off along some paths to out-of-the-way wonders.

Hiking in Wonderland

While we may not attempt to tackle the longer hikes, we were eager to set our sights on some easy and moderate lengths. We noticed in the brochure we received that there are even a couple of boardwalk-style trails that are accessible. Traversing along the trails, we found that there is very little on the level, as steps and ledges dot the landscape. The climbs are steady, but the rise is usually manageable. Unlike hiking in the Rockies, here we found that the steep grades were abrupt, so we could handle them with quick bursts of energy.

All Kinds of Arches

A number of our hikes were generally aimed at reaching one or more of the arches. There was a time, during trip planning, that I wondered if the sight of multiple arches would become redundant. You may think so, but the reality was completely different. Since we had a map telling us of an upcoming feature, it was easy to begin anticipating when we would likely spot it. Each time we turned a corner or climbed over a hill, and caught first sight, it was like the first. Each arch has its distinct shape, like the elongated fashion of Landscape Arch. With a span of 290 feet, it is the longest arch in Arches National Park.

Trip Along Park Avenue

We discovered that the majority of the arches are located toward the back of the park. By the time lunch rolled around, we decided to pause before heading too far toward the park entrance. After all, there was still plenty of visual amazement to be seen firsthand. Once we were refreshed, it was time to return to exploring. We had put way too much planning into this vacation to let this chance slide by. We cruised slowly along the main road, taking the opportunity to pull off every chance we got. Eventually, we found ourselves at the parking lot for Park Avenue. We knew that daylight was burning and our time was approaching an end. This would be our last hike of the day.

Explore Arches National Park

Without hesitation, we bounded off down the staircase and into the immense valley. Sheer cliffs rose around us, reminding us of a skyscraper-lined city boulevard. The hike to Courthouse Towers is one mile long, but the way out was spent with slow progress and constant gawking. Even as the landscape had seemingly changed, there were still visible reminders that we were in Arches National Park. Set high in the towering cliffs, we would spot a hole on its way to eroding into another arch. Nature seems to be constantly working. It isn’t often these words pass my lips, but I knew “We weren’t in Kansas anymore”!

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Sky High Views

While the stops were limited, there were still some to note. It’s important to stretch your legs once in a while, and Pendleton, Oregon seemed like a good place for this. Sure enough, a quaint downtown strip offered a few interesting shops to explore as we let the blood flow return to our limbs. Most of our day was spent watching the miles roll by, as we made our way south. In the late afternoon, we caught our first sight of the Snake River, which told us that our destination was soon to be found. Dusk was falling as we turned into our hotel, so exploring would have to wait until morning. We couldn’t wait to cross the Perrine Memorial Bridge and see downtown Twin Falls.

Iconic Memories

The morning dawned bright with a promise of beautiful weather. After grabbing some coffee, a must for this traveling couple, we crossed the bridge into the city. My research had dug up an unexpected connection from near our hometown. It was in Twin Falls, that Evel Knievel had attempted his infamous Snake River Canyon jump. On September 8, 1974, Evel Knievel took to the Idaho sky, as the skyrocket soared from its launch ramp. A drag parachute deployed prematurely, and he drifted down into the canyon. While our memories of this particular stunt have faded over the years, the details are captured at the Evel Knievel Museum in Topeka, Kansas.

Niagara of the West

After spending a few minutes waiting for a base jumper to leap from the bridge, we finally decided to make our way to the falls. A short, but winding road leads down to Shoshone Falls Park. The basalt canyon walls enclose the Snake River, forcing the water flow to contract on its way to the Columbia River. The distinct horseshoe-shaped cliff stands 212 feet tall, which makes for an impressive drop. The falls get their name from the Lemhi Shoshone people who fished the salmon runs for generations. The height of the falls prevented the salmon from traveling any further inland, so this became a prime spot for fishing. The first written documentation of Shoshone Falls came from John Fremont’s 1843 expedition.

Shoshone Falls History

In 1869, gold was discovered around Shoshone Falls. This set off a rush of prospectors bent on quick riches. The majority of the finds were made up of fine particles, referred to as “gold flour”. The flurry of activity began to subside within a year, as the yields dropped significantly. By 1871, most of the miners were selling off their claims to Chinese immigrants, who would continue working the mines until the early 1880s. Many had hoped that the gold find near Shoshone Falls would be as significant as that found in Boise, but the reward failed to match up to the investment needed to retrieve it. In the end, the mines were abandoned and the river was allowed to return to its natural state.

In Awe of the Falls

Our visit to Shoshone Falls came in the fall when the water flow is often restricted. Even without the spring flush of water, it is still an impressive sight. This time of year allows visitors to see more of the details that make up the entire fall system. While it is nicknamed the Niagara of the West, there is one distinct difference. Unlike its counterpart in the east, this natural attraction is not overshadowed by commercial development. It almost feels like you are leaving town to get to the falls. This has allowed the splendor of the attraction to be the only distraction.

What a Way to Start a New Day

As we stood there taking in the grandeur of Shoshone Falls, we were in awe of the natural beauty we have found across our nation. While waterfalls are one of our favorite sights, we could also see the magic in the rest of the landscape. Being from Kansas, we are used to settings that have less rise and fall. As we meandered across the northwest, we were taking in all of the unique charms that are found at nearly every turn. Our day was only beginning and we were already maxing out our sense of wonder. With less than 400 miles to travel, we were looking forward to many more alluring scenes. The question for the day was; what would we find around the next bend in the road?

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Finding a Namesake

Wanting to maximize our time in the park, we departed our hotel before sunrise. The two-hour drive had us passing from residential to rural and finally into the wilderness. The weather was cloudy, but there was a promise of clearing later that morning. As dawn broke, we began to see peeks of our destination breaking above the landscape. Our path into the park led us along the White River, which appeared periodically from the long stands of pines. While keeping our eyes open for the park entrance, Crystal spotted a photo opp that we just couldn’t pass up. I have to admit that I’m a little jealous that we have never found a natural site named Jeff.

Taking It In

Not far from Crystal Mountain, we found our turn-off. We decided that our day should start with a visit to the park’s highest drivable point. Turning onto Sunrise Park Road, we began our climb to the visitors center. Nestled in a mountain meadow, the complex sits at an altitude of 6400 feet. The winding switchbacks offered peeks of the surrounding area, but only when not obstructed by the dense tree line.  After a while, we noticed a thinning of the vegetation as we approached the end of the road. We discovered the visitor center was closed, due to Covid, but it didn’t interrupt our chance to hike. From the parking lot, there are a couple of options but time-limited us to choosing the Sourdough Ridge Trail. From our mile-high perch, we climbed 1000 feet in elevation to find some amazing mountaintop views.

Sleeping Giants

With our first solid views of Mount Rainier under our belts, we turned our attention to lower elevations. The diverse environments of the mountain were something we had never experienced. Our excursions to the Rocky Mountains have provided plenty of scenic pine forest views. This would be our first adventure into an area filled with sleeping giants. We made our way back down the mountain volcano and soon landed at the Grove of the Patriarchs. Lucky timing landed us a spot in the small parking lot that leads to the trailhead. We took a few minutes to enjoy the lunch we had packed, before embarking on our next adventure.

Making Memories

The hike is a 1.5-mile round trip that has no elevation gain. As we made our way into the forest, the stillness quickly enveloped us. Through the trees, we could hear the rippling of the Ohanapecosh River, which flows down from Mount Rainier. The farther we journeyed along the trail, the more the feeling of longevity emanated from the woods. Coming down a small hill, we found ourselves at a small suspension bridge that led across the water. Passing single file, we were deposited on an island that felt like stepping into a sacred place. All around us, huge hemlocks, firs,  and cedars climbed into the sky. With an estimated age of up to 1000 years, we knew this old-growth grove was special.

Power and Beauty

We had made our way to the southern side of Mount Rainier. With our minds already blown by the amazing sights from the morning, we were now heading into an area filled with waterfalls. Like many of you, we are suckers for falling water. Paradise Valley Road winds across the foot of the mountain. Being the end of summer, snowmelt was coming to an end. There was still plenty to make for some incredible views. Our pre-trip research had told us that we could not pass up a visit to Narada Falls. We found the turn-off and made our way down a  short embankment trail that leads to a viewing area. Here we could see firsthand the 159-foot tall horsetail fall, which cascades down the rock face. We marveled at this natural beauty for quite some time, before making the climb back up the trail.

Mount Rainier Memories

Time was not on our side, as we had plans to meet up with our son for dinner. Knowing there was a two-hour drive in our future, we had to cut our visit short. A stop at Reflection Lake gave us a chance for one more set of selfies, before turning back toward the city. The memories we made during our Mount Rainier visit will stay with us for a lifetime. We don’t know if we will ever have the chance to hike on a volcano again, but we were glad this sleeping giant let us enjoy our time in peace.

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Twin Peaks Vibe

We rolled into Sammamish in the late morning and met up with Derek for lunch. After refueling our bodies, we set off for some sightseeing with the D-Rock providing guidance. When he first moved to the Northwest, he was living in Snoqualmie. While the name may not be too familiar, the town’s most notable attraction has been seen by millions. Snoqualmie Falls is one of the most picturesque waterfalls in the state of Washington. The 270-foot drop can be viewed by upper and lower platforms. Our visit occurred during the height of the wildfires, caused by drought. While the water flow was lower than normal, it offered a view of the rocky base that is usually obscured. The balance of our day was focused on the sights of Sammamish.

Familiar Faces

The following morning, we hopped on a bus and made our way into Seattle. After a tour of the Pike Place Market, we walked to Seattle Center, which is a huge complex of shops, museums, and attractions all inside of a park-like setting. We popped into the Museum of Pop Culture to check out a variety of familiar artifacts. One of my favorite sections was all about sci-fi in movies and television. The museum has pieces that range from classics like The War of the Worlds to modern-day hits like Men in Black. Catching sight of General Sarris, from Galaxy Quest, was certainly an unexpected delight for me.

An Otherworldly Experience

The three of us continued examining collections of items that ranged from extremely familiar to completely foreign. In the Science Fiction Hall, we found pieces easily recognizable. A lightsaber from Star Wars or Iron Man’s helmet was displayed near the mechanical skeleton of Terminator. In the Fantasy Worlds of Myth and Magic, they display weapons from The Lord of the Rings. We also spotted the Cowardly Lion’s outfit from The Wizard of Oz, which reminded us that we were far from our home in Kansas.

Chilling with D-Rock

A lot of the exhibits focus on various forms of music, including some Seattle grunge artists. We expected to see pieces from Nirvana and Pearl Jam, but most enjoyed the section about Jimi Hendrix. Passing through the Guitar Gallery, we found instruments once played by artists like Bob Dylan, Stevie Ray Vaughn, and Slash from Guns and Roses. There was so much to take in, but we gave it our best try. Of course, we still had other places to see, so we wrapped up our visit with a short stop in the gift shop.

Soaring Heights

A structure that dominates the skyline is the Space Needle. It is definitely a tourist attraction, but we were tourists, after all. The 605-foot tall tower stands high above the surrounding neighborhood. After our elevator ride to the top, we stepped out onto a revolving glass platform. We could see the ground far below and as we rotated, were able to spot the museum we had just toured. The city laid out before us and we watched as ships and ferries navigated the Sound.

Epic Road Trip Goals Accomplished

We moved along and stepped out to enjoy some fresh air. An outdoor deck offers the ultimate selfie spot for those willing to lean back on the glass benches. This was definitely a memorable day filled with family fun. I checked off a downtown visit to Seattle, from our list of Epic Road Trip goals. As we made our way back to the bus stop, Derek led us along a scenic route. Trekking through the blocks of high-rises and skyscrapers prevented views of the waterway. In the end, it gave us time to just chat and hike, and we wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.

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1) Riverfront Park

By the time we crossed over the state line, we were already feeling like we were in the city. I-90 runs along the south side of the Spokane River and we would be teased with distant views of the rolling waters. We exited the interstate and headed into the heart of the city. Just a few blocks in, we came to Riverfront Park. This home of the 1974 World’s Fair is a huge playground for visitors of all ages. The Rotary Fountain welcomed us into the green space that surrounds Spokane Falls. As we strolled the various pathways, we discovered a variety of sculptures  and even a carousel. No wonder so many people were finding reasons to see Spokane Falls.

2) Salmon Runs

For centuries, Native Indians would gather at the falls in June. This would mark the annual migration of Chinook salmon. Standing on platforms assembled over the falls, they would spear the fish that could run as big as 80 lbs. The harvest involved a variety of tribes, who worked together in harmony. Each season a Salmon Chief was chosen, who would oversee the harvest and distribution of the catch. While the men were busy with the harvest, the women would have the vital task of preserving the catch. All of this would cease with the construction of dams downstream. It was only a hint of days gone by that allowed us to imagine these giant creatures navigating the path upstream.

3) The History of Spokane Falls

The Native Indians would enjoy the use of this area well into the late 1800s. In 1873, the first settlement was created near Spokane Falls. The fertile lands of eastern Washington attracted settlers and the village grew. The life giving waters were the heart of the new city. Lumber became an important product and a sawmill built along the falls was the central feature to its success.  A devastating fire struck the burgeoning town in 1889. Like a phoenix, the city rose from the ashes, as the structures were replaced with brick buildings. In 1908, the first dams were built along the Spokane River, which signaled the end of the Salmon Run here.

4) Changing Views

Like so many American cities, urban sprawl created a vacuum in the inner city, during the early 1970s. By this point, the area around Spokane Falls was an unsightly assemblage of warehouses, parking lots, and railroad crossings. It would be the 1974 World’s fair that opened the opportunity to revitalize this section of the downtown. Agreements were made with the railroads, and soon the land was razed for new development. The positives provided by the revitalization were short-term gains, and interest waned in the area during the 1980s. A renewed approach was begun in the late 1990s, and continues today. It includes an open-air arena that hosts various events throughout the year.

More Reasons to See Spokane Falls

With our evening lodging just an hour down the road, we had time to explore Riverfront Park and the falls. The more we wandered, we realized there are lots of reasons to see Spokane Falls. A nearby SkyRide provides aerial views of the waterworks. We chose to stay grounded, as we made our way upstream. Beyond the falls, we came upon the portion that has still water. While it appears unmoving, we could see a powerful current below the surface. All around us were landscaped parks that beckoned visitors to slow down and enjoy the views. This is certainly a place we would love to visit again.

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Approaching the Monument

The rolling hills that surround Devils Tower are covered with plenty of vegetation. We were making our way along a winding road but had yet to spot the prize we were seeking. It was still quite pleasant, so we took in the beautiful landscape as we continued forward. It was about 20 miles off the interstate before we came to the turnout for Devils Tower. Seeing the sign renewed our excitement and it would only be a few minutes until our diligence was rewarded. Cresting a hill, the monument suddenly popped into view. It was still a ways off, but we now could see our prize.

The Story of Bear’s House

Before we begin looking at the 3 ways to explore Devils Tower, let’s get some background on the site. The lands surrounding the monument were common to the Lakota and Kiowa tribes. Their legends tell of a group of girls out playing, when they were spotted by some bears. The creatures began to chase them and the children climbed a rock to escape. Out of fear, they prayed to the Great Spirit for assistance. Their prayers were answered and the rock began rising from the earth. The bears attempted to climb after and their claws raked the grooves into the sides of the rock. In the end, the girls reached the sky and turned into the star cluster known as The Seven Sisters.

Getting an Education

In 1906, President Roosevelt declared Devils Tower as America’s first national monument. The two-square-mile park is covered with pine woods and rock outcroppings. Arriving in the park, we showed our National Parks Pass and made our way to the visitors center. The first of 3 ways to explore Devils Tower, it is a great place to begin a visit. Inside the center, we found an array of exhibits showing the history of the area and the people who have inhabited it. Constructed in the 1930s, the space also includes a gift shop filled with various souvenirs.

Hiking the Base

After picking out our mementos, and stashing them in the car, we turned our attention to the second way to explore. There are five trails that criss-cross the park grounds. Whether you are planning an extended stay or just have an hour, there are options for everyone. We were on a tight schedule, so we chose the shortest version, which is the Tower Trail. At just over one mile, it offers hikers views of the tower from all angles. Along the route, we found a selection of signs that told more of the story of Devils Tower. While the hike had some steep inclines, we were still able to complete it in our timeframe.

Scaling Tree Rock

As we made our way around the monument, we kept our eyes peeled for climbers. Every year, many choose to scale and rappel down Devils Tower. Being the third way to explore the monument, it was not one we would select. Still, it was intriguing to watch a pair of climbers in action. We learned that you have to have a permit to scale one of the thirty-one climbing trails up Devils Tower. This is done for the climbers’ safety and to ensure that every climber is accounted for at the end of the day. We are betting that it is very exhilarating to experience a climb on this amazing natural feature.

The Many Faces of Devils Tower

The 275-foot tall pillar is about 100-foot across. As we made our way around the monolith, we started to notice the different appearances it presents. In the bright sunshine, we could make out the greenish tint of the stone. On the other side, shadows highlighted the crags and fissures that scale the monument. It was easy to see why this place has held special meaning to so many people for so long. Besides the Lakota and Kiowa, there are stories from other tribes that include bears creating the unique ridges along the monument’s sides. As we stared up at it, it was easy to imagine such a scenario.

3 Ways to Explore Devils Tower

While we only participated in a couple of the 3 ways to explore Devils Tower, we came away with a healthy respect for this national monument. Day 2 of our Epic Road Trip included about 600 miles of driving. We noticed the afternoon burning up and knew we still had four more hours behind the wheel before we stopped for the night. Dinner would be a quick stop between the park and our lodging in Billings, Montana. While the promise of a soft bed was enticing, we dedicated ourselves to enjoying the scenery along the way. This was an opportunity to see some landscape that we had never experienced and we love a good road trip.

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Creating a Maze of Activity

Wall, South Dakota is home to the “geographical center of nowhere”. During our Epic Road Trip, we marked this stop as a good break after our visit to Badlands National Park. It was still early enough that the town hadn’t fully opened. That was okay with us, as we had visited Wall Drug with our kids on a previous trip. The memories of that stop had faded, so we were surprised to be reminded of the size of this unique attraction. No longer focusing on merely being a drug store, this place has expanded to include just about anything a traveler would want.

Corner the Market

This oversized tourist attraction has its claim to fame tied to ice water. You can imagine those early travelers becoming road weary on their drive across the plains. Dorothy’s idea was to offer “free ice water” to fatigued tourists. Of course, you have to get the word out for an idea to work. They did this by incorporating signs placed all along the routes that lead to Wall. Before long, the billboards would be found for hundreds of miles in all directions. They have also incorporated the use of free bumper stickers, which act as traveling billboards. By the time we made our first visit to Wall Drug, they were claiming that 200,000 cups of water were being dispensed annually.

Take It Outside

As times have changed, the owners have had to adapt to retain their corner of the market. Knowing that many of their visitors have children in tow, they have worked to increase the options that are family-friendly. The addition of the “Backyard” area are geared toward experiences for kids of all ages. Guests will find an arcade, fossil shop, kid’s store, and they can even pan for gold or gemstones. We discovered there are also plenty of opportunities for some interesting selfies.

Quick Break from the Road

Our Epic Road Trip was well into the second day and we were finding plenty of unusual stops to explore. Wall Drug has plenty to offer travelers looking for a break from the road. While we didn’t need the services of the on-site restaurants, we did enjoy perusing the shops. We even found some souvenirs from other stops that we had overlooked. That alone made this stop a win for us. Even if you aren’t looking for anything to add to your purchases, it’s still a fun place to take in. You can also grab a free cup of ice water to quench your thirst.

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Dignity Personified

Our goal was to make it to the Missouri River. It was a little surreal to think we had driven so far to wind back up at the same waterway that runs through our hometown. Just before making it to the shores of the “Big Muddy”, we spotted one last rest stop. This one was quite a bit different from the ones we have previously visited. It is home to Dignity of Earth and Sky. This 50-foot statue is adorned with 128 diamond-shaped panels that represent the surrounding landscape that is all around. It was erected in honor of the Native Tribes who called this region home. As we stood at the pavilion, we could see the river running in the distance and knew we were close to the end of our day.

First Things First

After a solid rest, we made an early start for Day 2. We were facing another 500+ miles day, so we left our hotel before daybreak. We started by locating some coffee, a requirement for successful exploring, in our opinion. Our first attraction was a couple of hours down the road. The slow-rolling hills belied the natural beauty that was just beyond the horizon. We arrived at Badlands National Park just as the sun was rising. Before we could relish in a South Dakota sunrise, clouds rolled in and filled the sky. This added a layer of gray to the brown and tan landscape.

Alien Landscape

Being from Kansas, we are well educated on the idea that the Great Plains were home to oceans in past eras. Layer upon layer of sediment built up the height of the land. fast-forward millenniums and the waters had receded leaving behind the open plains. Now the action of erosion took over and began carving the valleys through the land. It is easy to believe this place is part of some alien landscape. Looking out over the various hills and peaks leaves a feeling of awe.

The Original “Wall”

The Loop Road (Highway 240) is the main pathway for motor vehicles to pass through the park. There are about a dozen major pull-offs along the way and each offers a unique vantage point. At various stops, we found signage that gave some insight into this natural attraction. The one above speaks on the Wall, which is the heart of Badlands National Park. Seeing the 1920s vehicles navigating the frontier reminded us of the adventures enjoyed by those who came before us.

Healthy Hikes

To truly experience the badlands, we suggest getting out of your car and into the park. There are a number of trails that offer up-close looks at the alien landscape. The park department has built some raised deck walks that are accessible to a wide range of visitors. There are other trails that require more vigorous exertion. Whatever your skill level, you’ll find ways to get closer to nature.

Surprising Sightings

Making an early morning visit opened up the window for wildlife viewing. Even though our visit was in late August, a cool wind was blowing in from the northwest. That didn’t prevent some of the local residents from getting out for a morning meal. Our hope was to spot a few different species since there is an impressive number that calls the Badlands home. With traffic on our tail, we missed a chance to capture images of some Bighorn Sheep. In the end, it was this one lonely deer who made it in front of our camera lens.

Loving the Badlands

Our last visit to this area had been way back in the early 1990s. At that time, we were making memories with our kids in tow, so this couple’s trip was a bit different. Time has had its effects on us, just as it has on the alien landscape of Badlands National Park. We feel that we’ve held up pretty well, but then so has this landscape. We hope you have a chance to visit this national treasure and see the natural beauty for yourself. It was the perfect way to start our day.

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Cornering the Market

Way back in the late 1800s, many cities across the Great Plains were looking for ways to promote their fertile lands. The invention of the crop palace soon allowed the towns and cities to showcase the local crops. Usually, these would consist of grains and corn. The goal was to attract more farmers to their community. These structures would often be multi-purpose arenas that served as community centers. The Mitchell Corn Palace was constructed in 1892. The original wooden building was replaced in 1905 and again in 1919. The current structure represents the “World’s Only Corn Palace” left in existence.

Corn You Believe It?

Each year the Corn Palace hosts a festival to celebrate their annual redecoration. As luck would have it, our trip landed us in Mitchell on the weekend of their 100-year celebration. Even with a swollen crowd, we were able to find parking nearby the heart of the action. The Mainstreet that runs in front of the palace was filled with carnival rides and vendors. We passed by the rides, but explored the various items being offered up by the vendors. You never know when you’ll spot the perfect souvenir to remind yourself of this historic stop.

Stalking the Mitchell Corn Palace

You can see by our photos that the Mitchell Corn Palace is decked out with amazing murals. The surprising feature is that all of these creations are made with corn, grains, and native grasses. Each year they start from scratch and design new murals based on the designated theme. We learned that there are 12 different colors and shades of corn. We never realized there were that many options. The ears are split in half and nailed in place to create these amazing scenes.

Extensive History

Walking around the corner of the building, we discovered a large patio area. This side of the structure has more murals to view, as well as offering some history about the palace. They even had a stage set up for local musicians to entertain the crowds. Late August, in South Dakota, offers the perfect weather for outdoor adventures. We would have loved to spend some time soaking up the tunes and sunshine, but our Epic Road trip still had a schedule.

Popping Inside the Corn Palace

There was no way that we were going to skip a chance to see the inside of the Mitchell Corn Palace. Stepping through the front doors, we found ourselves in a large foyer. Here they have more historical information about the structure and the annual event. They also showcase some of the other artistic pieces that have been created with corn. We noticed a large staircase, and curiosity got the best of us. It led us to the entrance to a large arena, where staff members were preparing for some evening entertainment. We also discovered more murals, as well as photos from past years. What a fun tradition.

We’re All Ears

The Mitchell Corn Palace was certainly a one-of-a-kind stop. With three attractions under our belt, in the first day, we were on our way to building an amazing multi-state itinerary. There have been many road trips that encompass multiple states, but this one was going to rival our travels along Route 66. Mixing together natural and man-made attractions was giving us a great cross-section of America. As we wrapped up the late afternoon of our first day, we made our way back out onto the open road. Our lodging was still an hour down the highway and we didn’t want to miss the last hours of daylight, just in case there was some unmarked attractions along the way.

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Remnants from a Glacier

We were staring down a 4500-mile journey that would be completed in 11 days. This only allowed us enough time for one stop in most destinations. Our research told us that if you can only see one thing, in Sioux falls, it has to be Falls Park. With 128-acres to explore, we wouldn’t even have enough time to explore all of it. Time to focus. We rolled into town and headed straight for the riverfront park. Our first view told us that we were in for an amazing experience. It’s no secret that we love waterfalls, and Falls Park has quite the collection.

Ice Age Creation

This Ice Age Creation most likely began as a fairly straight and wide channel that carried water south toward the Gulf. The glaciers would carve into the underlying rock. Melting would carry the sediment downstream and expose more rock. This process would repeat itself for hundreds of years. While erosion continues to alter the Big Sioux River, these days it is not as severe. With about 7400 gallons of water per second passing through the area, the forces can be heard as well as seen.

Dining with a View

Our original schedule had us eating an early lunch during our stop in Sioux City, Iowa. As often happens during our travels, we found ourselves ahead of the timeline. Since our second stop was only an hour away, we decided to wait to eat. This ended up being a wise decision, as we discovered that the Falls Overlook Cafe was open for business. Traveling during the pandemic, we had found a mixed bag of restrictions across the country. In Sioux Falls, they were requiring masks and limiting visitors to outside dining. Facing beautiful weather and amazing views, we were more than happy to comply.

Queen Bee Mill

The first humans to discover this geological wonder would have been indigenous native tribes. It is estimated that they arrived in this area about 11,000 years ago. Artifacts suggest that most were hunter/gatherers, but cultivation was also occurring. Arrowheads point to origins from the southwest, and we had previously learned that the flint mined at Alibates Quarry was traded among tribes all across the middle part of the continent. Remnants of the huge burial mounds were discovered high above the banks of the Big Sioux River. Sometime in the late 1600s, nomadic buffalo hunters from the Lakota and Dakota tribes found their way to this scenic spot. These days, there are nine tribal lands in the state of South Dakota.

Ruins from Days Gone By

When Europeans heard about the wonders of this region, it was a foregone conclusion that they would arrive. It is probable that some had come before, but the earliest mention that I could find was by Lewis and Clark. In August 1804, they describe a visit to the falls of the “Soues River”. In the 1850s, Fort Dakota was erected nearby. The power of the waters beckoned speculators to designate the area prime for a settlement. The Queen Bee Mill was built and began operation in the early 1880s. The falls proved a worthy adversary and the business closed in a couple of years. A fire in 1956, left the ruins that can still be viewed today.

Picturesque Exploration

This Ice Age creation has become the number one attraction for Sioux Falls. The park allows for plenty of amazing views. We crossed the bridge over the falls numerous times during our visit. Seeing others climbing among the rocks, we were drawn into a closer look. Walking along the edge gave us a perspective different from afar. We wandered among the native plants and found some viewpoints overlooked by others. There was even time enough for a climb up the 50-foot tower that is home to the visitor center. From there, we could witness how the Big Sioux River winds its way through the craggy rocks below.

Break from the Road

Stop number two, along our Epic Road Trip, was another marvelous find. Knowing that we would need various breaks along our 4500-mile journey, it was exciting to see the places we had been dreaming about for weeks. All of the planning may be tedious, but when a plan comes together it is worth all of the effort. As we sat along the banks of the falls, we were reminded how fortunate we are to live in a country filled with so many wonders. The road was beckoning to us, but we wanted to soak in a few more minutes of the grandeur of Sioux Falls.

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Presidential Directive

America was still a youngster with less than three decades under its belt. The country had elected Thomas Jefferson, in 1800, as the third president. In 1803, Jefferson offered Napoleon $10 million for New Orleans and the territories surrounding this strategic port city. Napoleon countered with an offer to sell nearly 1 million square miles for $15 million. U.S. negotiators seized on this deal and the Louisiana Purchase was realized. Seeing the value of westward expansion, it was decided that someone was needed to chart the territory. In May 1804, the Corps of Discovery embarked on their search for the rumored Northwest Passage.

Epic Road Trip Requirements

While Lewis and Clark faced unchartered lands, we had all of the latest gadgets to guide our travels. Defining an epic road trip is difficult since it means something different to each travel group. This expedition was in honor of our 40th wedding anniversary, so it had to be memorable. We had 11 days to see as much as possible. Our planned route took many weeks to develop since I am all about overdone research. In less than two weeks, we would pass through 11 states and travel over 4500 miles. It was difficult to contain our excitement as we pulled out of Kansas City. Our first stop was planned four 4 hours up the highway in Sioux City, Iowa.

Daily Duties

Much like Lewis and Clark, we had a schedule that needed to be kept in mind. I made sure to allow for some flex time, in the event of surprises. As the pilot on this journey, I kept engaged in traffic control. Crystal would be the navigator, assistant, and social media savant. Here’s where I will tell on myself just a little bit. When compiling our itineraries, I include the estimated length of each visit and stop along our way. Reading some of the information about the expedition’s stay in the area told me that their timeline was a little less rigid. The Corps of Discovery actually spent over a month in this area. That would be plenty of time to fall into a regular daily routine.

Curious Travelers

The Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center uses animatronics to bring the story to life. The most amusing exhibit involved Seaman, the Newfoundland dog that the team brought on the expedition. An animatronic prairie dog “barks” at the beast of a dog, who is clearly puzzled by this creature. In reality, their dog played an important role in the adventure. His large size and excellent swimming skills made him a valuable asset to the 41-man crew.

Unexpected Tragedy

You would expect to hear about many tragic events with such a perilous journey. In fact, only one member of the Corps would perish during the trip. The youngest man in the group, Sergeant Charles Floyd. There would certainly have been a thousand ways to die on this expedition. In reality, Floyd passed from what are considered natural causes. It is suspected that he perished from a ruptured appendix. It happened in the area that would become modern-day Sioux City. The animatronic replica tells a little about him and the duties he performed.

Early Epic Road Trip Success

You see above a picture of a happy couple filled with vigor. The excitement of the open road burns in their hearts and kindles their desire for more exploring. This first small taste was enough to whet our appetites. Now we were facing more seat time as we wheeled our way toward our next stop. Rest assured that each notable event will be journaled on our blog. While our stories are meant to stir the passion for travel in you, they also serve as reminders for ourselves. It’s the miles of time spent viewing the open landscape that helps us remember just how big our world really can be. Onward to our nest stop.

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