Watkins Family

Within a short period, Waltus and Mary Ann had welcomed three sons into the world. Watkins sold his mill and moved the family to an 80-acre farm located north of Liberty. He was so fond of the site that he named it Bethany Farm. Within their first year at the farm, the couple saw the passing of two of their sons. Over time, Mary Ann gave birth to eight more children. Over the next ten years, they increased their sizeable footprint to almost 1300 acres. Our Kearney, Missouri day trip excursion had landed us at the Watkins Woolen Mill State Historic Site for a tour of their exhibits and the farmstead.

Supplies for Everyday Life

By now, fortune was shining on the family and they found great success with their crops and livestock. While the Civil War would create struggles for many, the Watkins saw continued progress. By the end of the war, their holdings included a sawmill, gristmill, brick kiln, and a new woolen mill. People in the 1800s needed supplies just as we do today. While many items could be produced at home, others required a large-scale operation to create the finished products economically. A visit to the general store would have showcased many of the products being created at Bethany Farm.

Grinding Work

Our visit to the visitors center helped us understand life on the Bethany Farm. With so many distinct activities, there was a need for a slew of workers. Not only would you need people to produce the products, but also some to maintain all of the equipment. This would apply not only to the woolen mill but the sawmill and gristmill, as well. Then you also had to have farmhands to plant, tend, and harvest the crops from the fields and orchards. While it would have been an expensive enterprise, it still managed to be profitable.

Model Memories

One of my favorite displays was the model of the woolen mill. With cutout walls, we were able to see how the various operations took place when the mill was active. It required about 40 people to run the mill, with the majority being adults. There was also a handful of children who had more menial tasks to complete as they worked on their apprenticeship. The Watkins family employed immigrants from the east coast and found many to be well-seasoned in the necessary skills. The wool supply came from a group of sheep ranchers who maintained homesteads nearby.

Processing the Wool

When a sheep is sheared, the wool needs to be processed. It needed to be sorted, washed, and cleaned of debris. Once these processes were complete, the raw wool was ready to be dyed and fed into a picker, which separated the clumps for carding.  Carding is a mechanical process that untangles the strands so that they can be spun into yarn. The whole process is a little like teasing hair so that it can be combed out straight. To manage to have room for all of these processes, a woolen mill requires a sizeable footprint.

Making a Myriad of Products

The need for highly skilled employees required a higher pay scale. Add in the variety of raw materials needed to produce the finished goods and we were left wondering how they made money. In the late-1800s, it would have been extremely expensive to ship products around the continent. This meant that people looked to local producers for their wares. To supply the cloth needed for everyday life, there needed to be woolen mills all across the nation. It is estimated that there were nearly 900 mills in 1870.

A Sizeable Footprint

Now that our heads were filled with all of this historical data, it was time to go check out the farm. While the state park encompasses about 1500 acres, only a portion of the farmstead remains. Fortunately, many of the most important structures have survived the test of time. Stepping out the back door of the visitors center, we found a gravel path that led into the farm. A short walk away and we came to the three-story woolen mill. While the diorama had suggested a sizeable footprint, it took seeing it firsthand to really grasp the size of the operation. We were pleased to see that the huge brick structure has remained relatively intact over the 160 years it has been in existence.

Farm Store

The staff at the park offer tours, but we decided to do a self-guided version. While we couldn’t go inside without a ranger, we were able to peer into the windows. You can also check out the exterior spaces where the wool was washed and the process began. Seeing the store counter made us imagine what it would have been like to be a shopper in the late 1800s. The adults would have sorted through the available products to make sure they picked up everything they would need for their homes. After all, it was a long haul in a wagon to make a return trip for forgotten items.

The Family Home

The farmstead home still stands on a hillside overlooking the mill. Peering through the windows we saw the Victorian styling of the spiral staircase leading to the upstairs bedrooms. During the farm’s heyday, the family would have been busy tending the dairy, orchard, and chickens. We also spotted a row of beehives, which would have provided plenty of honey to sell at their store. A smokehouse would have cured the meat they got from raising hogs. Various out-buildings would have served to house the equipment used to work the fields. Directly behind the house is a summer kitchen which would have been used to keep the heat out of the main house during warmer months.

Visit Watkins Mill

A visit to Watkins Mill provides a family-friendly experience. The visitors center is free of charge and provides lots of background on the family and their enterprises. They offer a short video that provides additional details. The pandemic has curtailed their on-site activities, like tours, but the park remains open to the public during normal business hours. The state park features additional amenities, which we did not make use of during our visit. There is a 100-acre lake and some scenic picnic spots. Campers may want to check out the campground that is open year-round. We see a lot of reasons to make the short drive to check out Watkins Mill for yourself.

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In Short Order

We loved the charm of this cute little coffee shop. When we stepped through the door,  we found that the quaintness continued. The staff was busy working on orders for the locals who frequent this place. That gave us a few minutes to peruse their menu. Obviously, coffee was a given, but we needed to determine our munchables. A nearby pastry case was tempting us with its goodies, so something would be needed from there. They also make some hot dishes, with many being protein-rich choices.

Wide Open Spaces

After placing our order, we needed to find a good perch to observe the locals. Up the stairs, we discovered the perfect spot. A second-floor seating area has plenty of windows to provide lots of lighting and views. With appropriate spacing, we found that it was easy to socially distance. It’s hard to imagine that this would have ever become a concern. The Paisley Perk is a comfortable spot to just sit and catch up with a neighbor while enjoying a delectable cup of coffee.

Reminders of Home

You would expect a Kearney coffee break to focus on the local area. We were pleasantly surprised to find that they also give a nod to the nearby city we live in. While we were ordering our meals, I knew that we would have to sample at least one sweet treat from their pastry case. It was an easy decision once I spotted the “KC” cookies. Lying on the table in front of me, it became a picture-perfect treat.

Kearney Coffee Break

During a blogging trip, we would usually focus our attention, and photos, mainly on the food. This Kearney coffee break actually ended up being more about how cozy this place is to visitors. Of course, it still needs to be serving up delicious bites. No problem there, since we both loved our choices. I had the Breakfast Sandwich, which included egg, sausage, and cheese all nestled inside a toasted, flaky bun.  Crystal chose the Personal Crustless Quiche and the one at Paisley Perk didn’t let her down. They have a couple of choices and she went with the one that includes sausage, red pepper, and pepper-jack cheese.

Time to Explore

With our hunger satisfied and plenty of protein for the upcoming adventures, it was time to say goodbye to Paisley Perk. Exploring Kearney had been on our list for quite some time. Now that the opportunity had come to a reality, we were anxious to get rolling. As we drove through the downtown, we spotted some interesting shops that we planned to come back to in the afternoon. For now, we needed to hoof it over to the Jesse James Farm to check out the story of the area’s most notorious native. It was looking to be a very good day!

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The Homestead

This particular trip would take us back to the mid-1800s. When you step into history, you can never tell where the path may lead. In 1842, Rev. Robert James brought his wife Zerelda and their baby boy, Frank, to the area. Two years later, in 1847, Jesse James would enter the world. The James family was much like any other in this agricultural section of the heartland. Their farm produced tobacco and hemp, much like those throughout this region. The land was worked by the family and their six slaves. Jesse’s father passed away while preaching to gold prospectors in California. His mother, Zerelda, would remarry twice more.

Frank’s Influence

There can be no doubt that Frank had an immense influence on his younger brother, Jesse. In 1861, the start of the Civil War found Frank to be 18 years old and a willing participant. When war broke out between the states, Frank marched off to fight for the Confederacy. He joined up with guerilla fighters with the goal of repelling the Union forces from the territory. Frank was serving with the Missouri State Guard during the Battle of Lexington, Missouri. Due to illness, he was left behind when the Confederate troops left. Frank was forced to surrender to Union troops, who allowed him to return home. In early 1863, Frank joined up with a guerilla band being led by Fernando Scott. Jesse was upset to see his brother leave again and resigned himself to join in the war efforts.

Jesse Goes to War

In the late spring of that year, Union militiamen came to the James farm looking for information on Frank and the guerilla forces with which he rode. They went so far as to hang Jesse’s stepfather, though he did escape death, as well as horse-whipping Jesse. This would be the spark that set Jesse on the path to outlaw life. Frank had left his Scott’s group and joined with Quantrill’s Raiders. This notorious force was known for its bloody raids. In August of that year, they made their most famous excursion when they sacked the town of Lawrence, Kansas, and killed 200 citizens. While Frank continued his escapades with William Quantrill, Jesse had joined up with Bloody Bill Anderson. The Missouri-Kansas ‘Border War’ offered plenty of opportunities for Jesse to hone his fighting skills.

Desperado Years

In early 1866, the James brothers assembled a group that would rob the Clay County Saving Bank in Liberty, Missouri. Making off with $62,000, this was the first U.S. daytime bank robbery. It resulted in the death of one civilian. We can only imagine the thrill that the gang felt after this successful excursion. The heinous acts committed during wartime had blurred the lines for these men and death was considered an occupational possibility. This would not stop the gang from engaging in a string of robberies that included banks, trains, and stores. Jesse considered himself a sort of Robin Hood, although the riches he plundered were not given to the poor.

Family Life

At the end of the war, Jesse began a nine-year courtship with his cousin Zerelda, who was named after his mother. This would culminate with their marriage in 1874. Zerelda would give birth to a son, Jesse, and a daughter, Mary. They also had a pair of twin boys who died in infancy. Life as the wife of a highwayman was filled with uncertainties. The gang’s attempted robbery in Northfield, Minnesota resulted in heavy losses. Only Jesse and Frank would escape to Nashville and live to rob again another day. By 1881, the brothers were going their separate ways, with Jesse returning to Missouri. He settled in St. Joseph and had reduced his circle of trust to the two Ford brothers, Charley and Bob. Unbeknownst to Jesse, Bob Ford had made a pact with the Governor of Missouri to bring in the ringleader.

An Expected End

With a $5000 bounty on his head, Jesse asked the Ford brothers to move in with the family to offer additional protection. On the morning of April 3, 1882, Jesse headed into the living room to discuss plans for a robbery in Platte City.  While Bob Ford was nervous that Jesse had grown suspicious of him, the outlaw showed no apparent signs. In fact, he sat his pistols down to the dust off a picture on the wall. At that moment, Bob drew his pistol and shot Jesse James in the back of the head. News of the death spread like wildfire across the nation.

Final Resting Places

The family buried Jesse on the homestead. His mother Zerelda wanted his grave to be in easy sight so that she could keep watch over it. Over the years, many claims were made that Jesse was not buried there. Some went so far as to say that the outlaw faked his death and there was another body in the grave. In 1902, the body was moved to the city cemetery in nearby Kearney, Missouri. This did not quell the rumors about his death. To satisfy curiosity, Jesse’s remains were exhumed in 1995 for DNA testing. The results were conclusive that the body was indeed that of the notorious Jesse James.

Step Into History

Our visit to the Jesse James Farm ended up being quite an informative excursion. With all of the sensationalism surrounding this American bandit, it is easy to see why so many become enamored with tales of his escapades. The staff offers eight tours per day or you can complete a self-guided tour. Due to COVID, the house is closed to the public, but they allow visitors to peer through the screen doors and windows. For the purposes of our article, we had arranged a tour inside. Hopefully, they will be able to return to the regular open house tours for all visitors. This historic landmark is a great place to step into history and learn about one of America’s most famous outlaws.

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