Starting the Day NOLA Style

New Orleans is certainly a place for foodies to get their fill of a multitude of cuisines. Many of the meals that we have enjoyed were certainly calorie heavy, but we knew that walking would be our mode of transportation. This certainly made a sugary breakfast treat a little easier to digest. It wouldn’t be a true Crescent City experience without at least one stop at Cafe Du Monde. Sharing an order of beignets and chicory coffee really makes us feel like locals. While there are a variety of restaurants that offer this southern treat, why not visit the original. (Read more about Cafe Du Monde here.) Some days of exploring require more of a protein based start. Our first day of walking uncovered a quaint little eatery in the heart of the French Quarter. Cafe Envie not only offered up a hearty breakfast, but later we dropped by for a true southern dessert.

The Flavors of New Orleans

The spirit of New Orleans can be found in their passion for food. With a wide range of influences, a person can eat a new cuisine style each meal for days. We decided early on that we would not try to capture every meal during our visit. Sometimes we just want to savor the meal and the moment. A dinner at GW Fins fulfilled our seafood desires, while lunch at Johnny Po’Boys made us feel like locals. Spending an evening enjoying the live music and southern dishes at House of Blues was certainly a highlight of our trip. One stop that had to be recorded was a late lunch visit to Gumbo Shop. Here we shared a large platter of Creole staples that just screamed New Orleans.

Back to the Beginning

Our visit to NOLA happened to land on the city’s 300th birthday. This is an accomplishment that is uncommon in the Central U.S. To commemorate the experience, we decided to gain a better understanding of the history of The Big Easy. We started with a stop at The Cabildo, which tells the story of the earliest days of the city. One of the largest parts of the exhibits feature aspects of the War of 1812. It was interesting learning how such a diverse group of people came together to defend their home. Since we were already at Jackson Square, it was only a little walk to the 1850’s House. I felt that it was only fair that all of the time I had spent learning about the war should be equaled with time for Crystal to study the personal stories of the early residents. While I wandered the house taking photos, she immersed herself into the details of life during the “Golden Age” of the Victorian Era.

It’s So Tiny!

There are people who have a bucket list to visit every national park in the United States. While many picture Yellowstone or one of the other 58, there are also a large number of other sites. Actually, we discovered there are 419 national park sites, when you include U.S. territories. That seems like a rather large number to tackle, so we have learned to just enjoy the ones we happen upon. In the spirit of New Orleans, even their national park site is a little on the unusual side. The Jean Lafitte National Historical Park is a great spot to make a quick visit. This pocket park sits inside the French Quarter and offers visitors a look at the culture and nature of the region.

The Spirit of New Orleans

Now that we had a firm grasp on the early days, it was time to move on to more current events. Our first visit to NOLA took place the year before Hurricane Katrina. The time had been spent just getting a feel for the city. With so much to see and do, it was hard to focus on any specific subject. Our return visit meant that we were already familiar with the distractions that sideline a plan, so we knew what to expect. Like many of you, we had watched with horror as the city was engulfed by the floodwaters brought on by the hurricane. A stop at The Presbytere gave us a closer look at this horrific event. This New Orleans museum complex is actually divided into two different experiences. While the first floor had focused on Katrina, the second floor was associated with one of the most well known celebrations in America. The spirit of New Orleans shines brightly during Mardi Gras. Revelers descend upon the Crescent City for a chance to join the crowd in celebrating. At The Presbytere, visitors can learn about the history and pageantry of this unique annual event.

Getting Around

Flying into NOLA is fairly simple and there are plenty of options to get to your lodging selection. We took a taxi, which makes for about a 30 minute ride. Once we checked in, it was all about being a pedestrian. Our lodging was just a couple of blocks from the French Quarter, so everything there was within walking distance. There were a couple of times that we chose to ride the streetcars. One trip into the Quarter was made during a torrential downpour. The choice to ride the rails was more out of not wanting to be drenched. In the end, we still got soaked, as we had to walk a ways to our final destination from the platform. The second time involved a last minute decision to explore the Magazine Street District. Filled with shops and restaurants, this area holds the homes of some local and national celebrities. Once we stepped off the streetcar, we spent a couple of hours just taking in the sights.

Exploring the French Quarter

When you hear the name French Quarter what comes to mind? Many may picture wild crowds of bead seeking party goers. Others will have visions of the brick-lined streets that once held pirates and scalawags. No matter how you envision the Crown Jewel of New Orleans, this oldest section of the city is that and much more. Close to the river is the oldest part of the city and home to the French Market. A wide range of goods can be found inside this open air extravaganza. While shopping, visitors can grab a drink and bite to eat from a variety of vendors. As you make your way throughout the Quarter, streets filled with shops, eateries, candy makers, and live music clubs will be found. This section of The Big Easy seems to be alive with a heartbeat that grows stronger as the sun sets. That doesn’t mean there is a lack of things to do during the day. With an assortment of activities available, you are sure to find something to fit your mood.

Jackson Square

You can’t say you have truly experienced the French Quarter without visiting Jackson Square. This national historic landmark is home to the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. This square block is filled with sensory teasing temptations. With the St. Louis Cathedral as a backdrop, local artists assemble in droves to showcase their particular talents. The cathedral is flanked on both sides by the twin museums, Cabildo and Presbytere. This means a historical education of New Orleans is close at hand. As we meandered around the square, we saw paintings, sculptures and various mixed media artwork for sale by local artisans. An assortment of musicians serenaded the crowds with jazz, ragtime, and other sweet sounds. While Bourbon Street is the place to be after dark, the spirit of New Orleans shines brightest in Jackson Square during the day.

Remembrance

New Orleans is filled with so many attractions, that it would require weeks to see them all. With a limited amount of time, we had to be selective about our choices. Being from Kansas City, the home of the National World War I Museum, we knew that a visit to its sister site was a given. Located a few blocks outside of the French Quarter, the National World War II Museum is a massive undertaking. Attempting to cover a war that was fought on so many fronts requires multiple galleries. We set aside half a day for this visit, which ended up being barely enough time to see all of the displays. It would take a full day, at the least, to truly immerse yourself in all of the exhibits. We also noticed that they were in the process of adding additional space, so a return visit will certainly be needed.

We Will Be Back

As we pointed out at the beginning of this article, there are good and bad things about travel blogging. All trips must eventually come to an end, and we find ourselves torn from our explorations to return home. Even though we have usually worn ourselves out by scurrying all around the city we are visiting, there is still a desire to see one more sight. With our bags packed, it’s time to begin our return trip. Whether we are traveling by car or air, we will spend some of our time reminiscing about the experiences we just had. This helps cement the memories and often each of us will hear something new. It still amazes us that each person has a different perspective of the same experience. How many of you have found the same to be true when discussing a site you have visited?

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Abracadabra

As you stroll through the French Quarter, don’t be surprised by the occasional voodoo shop. Voodoo was brought to New Orleans by the West African slaves in the early 1700’s. Many people associate the sticking of pins in dolls with voodoo, as a form of hexing a victim. This illusion has been fostered by Hollywood to capitalize off of the mystery of the religious rituals. While charms, potions, and amulets are a key part of voodoo, the base of their belief is founded in ancestor worship. A visit to the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum might be in the cards for you, if you wish to learn more. These days, a handful of shops offer up a variety of items to customers, with many geared toward tourists.

Architecture

The French Quarter has a mix of Spanish and French influences, which create an atmosphere that draws visitors from all around the globe. The area was greatly affected by fires in 1788 and again in 1794. Many structures were destroyed and replaced with the Creole Townhouses that line the streets and boulevards of the Quarter. These two, three, or even four-story structures hold businesses on the ground floor and homes above. The iron railings are a familiar feature in many pictures of the area. St. Louis Cathedral sits facing Jackson Square, but can be seen from many vantage points throughout the French Quarter. One of the most photographed buildings in America, it has been seen in hundreds of visual presentations.

Balconies

What would the French Quarter be without blocks and blocks of those iron rail balconies? As you wander the streets, it is easy to get distracted by the groups that assemble on the floors above. Many gather to mingle, while others are there to party. On Bourbon Street you will find establishments that offer customers the option of celebrating from one of these historic perches. If you are considering occupying one of these coveted spots during Mardi Gras, then you should be prepared to plan. These spaces can be reserved for more than a year in advance.

Bands

Speaking of Mardi Gras makes us think of New Orleans intimate tie to music. Just about every style of tune can be heard wafting from a bar or nightclub in the French Quarter. Of course, as the video above shows, you can also be entertained by an impromptu Jazz parade. These are usually following a predetermined path that will lead the followers to a party destination. That doesn’t mean you can’t join in the march along the way. New Orleans is the perfect spot to drop a little of your inhibitions and just enjoy the moment.

Bars

Those marching bands will usually lead their followers to one of the many bars or nightclubs found throughout the French Quarter. When most people think of partying in New Orleans they picture wandering in and out of the establishments on Bourbon Street. Named after one of France’s ruling families, (the House of Bourbon) many of the buildings on the street were part of the Spanish rebuilding after the fires. One of the few remaining structures is Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop. Built in the 1770’s, it is the oldest surviving building in New Orleans. During the day, tourists wander Bourbon Street checking out the many souvenir shops that are interspersed between the restaurants and bars. As dark approaches, the crowds gather to watch the street come alive. Music escapes from the many nightclubs lining Bourbon Street. Neon lights illuminate the night, beckoning the crowds to come inside.

Candy

A visit to the French Quarter will definitely allow plenty of opportunities to satisfy your sweet tooth. As we strolled the historic streets, we passed a variety of shops serving up all sorts of candies, cakes, and other desserts. New Orleans is home to the praline, which was brought here by the French settlers. This sweet confection is usually a combination of nuts, syrup or sugar, and some form of cream. The final product can be accented with a variety of flavors, but the base usually contains those three ingredients. The most common nut additions are pecans, almonds or hazelnuts. These delectable creations can have a creamy fudge-like texture or be on the crisper side. Visiting a local candy shop will usually include a taste test of their version of the praline, so it doesn’t take many stops to achieve a good sugar rush. Who knows, you may even catch them in the process of making a batch.

Carriage Rides

In the days prior to paved streets, horse drawn carriages were the main mode of transportation. These days this unique form of travel is romanticized by the various carriage companies. Tourists can charter a 30 or 60 minute tour that highlights some of the historic sites located inside the French Quarter. There are even carriage ghost tours in the evenings. Besides being educational, it’s a romantic way to enjoy some time in this historic district.

Characters

New Orleans draws in some interesting characters who will be seen all around the city. The French Quarter has more than its share, since it is a highly visited tourist district. Many costumed characters are working to advertise. Along Bourbon Street, you may spot one that is attempting to draw you into a show. Jackson Square is a gathering place for costumed characters looking to earn tips for photo opportunities. Even the small local bands will dress in outfits that help capture the attention of the passing crowds.

Crowds

With multiple zones, the French Quarter will be crowded in different areas throughout the day and night. Daylight hours will see an increase in the Jackson Square and shopping areas. Here tourists investigate the various shops looking for mementos and bargains. As the sun sets, the mood changes to one of relaxed fun. Restaurants draw lines of customers, while bars see a steady stream of people. The nightclubs fling open their doors to attract patrons with rifts of music. The heartbeat of the French Quarter continues until early in the morning, before the final party-goers make their way back to their lodging.

French Quarter Lessons

Visiting the French Quarter can be an exhilarating experience. Of course, those staying multiple days in New Orleans may do well to pace themselves. While it can be fun (and interesting) to party late into the night on Bourbon Street, you may also want to enjoy some of the quieter moments. A daybreak walk will allow you to enjoy the architecture without the crowds. Strolling to Cafe Du Monde in the morning will offer shorter waits for your beignets and coffee. (You can read more about Cafe Du Monde here.) These early morning excursions offer a view of a city that is a stark contrast to the pictures that most paint of The Big Easy. So what are your favorite things about the French Quarter?

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We would like to thank The National World War II Museum for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

First Salvo

Being Kansas City natives, we have the World War I National Museum close by, so we have seen how this conflict was portrayed. (You can read about the WWI Museum here.) Our visit there, was a national war museum first for us. With such a broad range of subjects and battles from WWII to detail, we were curious how well any museum would be capable of handling the task. Arriving at the museum, our first impressions were that the site is massive. We noticed a crane nearby, and realized they were in the process of adding even more square footage to their footprint. Stepping into the lobby, we found an assortment of war machines that would be the highlight of many other museums. At the National World War II Museum, these were merely enticements to pique our interest in what was to come.

Rumors of War

The National World War II Museum follows a chronological path for the most part. There are special “rotating” galleries that hold temporary exhibits. During our visit, we wandered through one that highlighted Bob Hope’s USO visits to service people throughout the various war zones. While it was quite engaging, our main purpose was to scope out the permanent displays. We headed off to the first gallery, which highlights the atmosphere of the world in the period leading up to the start of World War II.

Shifting Focus

Newspapers around the world began a steady stream of headlines focused on events leading up to war. Citizens of most countries were eager to read news on what was occurring in the world. An unending march of aggression and preparation added to the nervous atmosphere. It was clear that the world was once again marching to war.

It Begins for America

By 1941, war had been raging in Europe for over two years. Far separated from the turmoil, the United States had sat on the sidelines. Some support was being offered, but it mostly came in supplies and denouncing the actions of the aggressors. The U.S. sent support to Britain, who was embroiled with Germany, as well as China who battled Japan in the Eastern Theater. When Japan demanded that the U.S. discontinue aid to China, it was met with a demand that Japan evacuate all Chinese lands. Seeing an opportunity to destroy the U.S. Pacific Fleet, Japan attacked Pearl harbor on December 7, 1941. War had come to America.

Call to Arms

Since the fall of 1939, many U.S. citizens had wondered what would happen if the country went to war. The growing cost of peace had finally come to the point that the nation could no longer watch from afar. After the Japanese attack, people rushed to enlist in every branch of military service. Suddenly the manufacturing focus changed from household items to war materials. Many automobile factories converted into the manufacturing of airplanes and armored vehicles. During the war, the United States would turn out an average of 49,000 aircraft per year.

The Homeland Battle

With hundreds of thousands of citizens moving into service, the country felt the labor shortage. Many women stepped in to fill this void. It would not be long until other shortages would arise. Conservation and recycling programs pushed the need to save resources for the soldiers. Victory Gardens were started as a way to grow your own food. These government encouraged gardens would lead to half of the country’s produce being home grown. War bonds and war stamps became highly touted as a way to speed up economic recovery.

Distrust Arises

The United States was still suffering from segregation. African Americans saw wages that were lower than those of whites, and they were often the last to be hired. Those that enlisted faced discrimination on all fronts. Over time, they faced these challenges and rose to the occasion. While not openly integrated into the white divisions, many African American units would also pay the cost of peace. The alignment of Allied forces versus Axis forces drew a line between nationalities. Many Americans would become suspicious of neighbors of German, Italian, and Japanese descent. Interment camps were created to detain over 110,000 Japanese Americans.

European Theater

On the other side of the world, Allied troops were heavily engaged with the German and Italian forces. In Africa, British and American troops battled to squelch the Nazi tide. A “briefing room” is designed to replicate an abandoned farmhouse. Hear we learned about the reasons behind the decision to tackle this region, before turning to the Asian Theater.

Authentic Artifacts

This 1943 Jeep is just one of the authentic artifacts that helps to paint the compelling story of the cost of peace. Many of the displays include interactive panels that guide the visitors through an examination of the events of the war. Here we were able to pick up so many new pieces of information that we missed in our school years. As we continued through the museum, we were led through the invasion of Italy. This months long campaign taught the Allied forces many important lessons that they would need for the assault against Germany.

Into Enemy Lands

All along the landscape the Germans had built a series of reinforced bunkers. This defensive position was referred to as the Siegfried Line, and included barbed wire and mine fields. One gallery is a recreated bunker that has been taken by Allied forces. It is easy to see how formidable this defensive stance would have been to advancing troops, as they marched toward Berlin.

The Cost of Peace

One of the most notable engagements was the Battle of the Bulge. Immersing ourselves into the gallery dedicated to this six-week battle was another reminder of the hardships that troops faced as a cost of peace. This would be the last major offensive campaign by the German Army. Fighting in a densely wooded forest, it was a surprise attack designed to thwart the advance of Allied troops. The element of surprise favored the Germans at the offset of the battle, but circumstances would turn quickly. The Battle of the Bulge would become the bloodiest single battle fought by American troops in World War II.

Naval War

Through the years, most of us have learned quite a bit about World War II. Our visit to the National World War II Museum was not just to educate ourselves on things we had missed, but to see how the messages were presented. What we found was an amazing collection of exhibits housed in spaces that transport visitors into the reality of the situation. Entering the space dedicated to the naval war, we found ourselves on the bridge of a ship at sea. As we made our way through the gallery, the environment continued to engage us with realistic displays.

Jungle Warfare

Each gallery we entered brought a sense of realism. The museum combines lights, sounds, and authentic artifacts to help show the cost of peace. In the jungle zone, visitors trace the battles that led from island-to-island. The extreme conditions created unexpected difficulties for Allied troops. With no infrastructure the progress would be slow. Wave upon wave of Banzai charges were matched in deadliness by the diseases unfamiliar to Allied troops. Throughout the displays we learned the stories of those who carved a new infrastructure out of the jungles. There were also a host of doctors and nurses who worked feverishly to treat the diseased soldiers with newly developed vaccines.

Engaging Exhibits

Listening to stories of the war being told by participants brings the war to life. As the scene changed from sea to land, we explored the landing on Guadalcanal. We could almost feel the humid heat of the jungle and feel the biting mosquitoes that harassed the troops. Facing the overwhelming obstacles that the Japanese Army had prepared for them, the troops fought on at a terrible cost. Japanese soldiers would forego surrender and fight to the death.

Horrors of War

The cost of peace continued to escalate as the end of the war came closer. Japan’s refusal to surrender led to unprecedented bombings. As these did not appear to bring an end nearer, a hard decision had to be made. Continue adding to the loss of Allied forces or deal an unimaginable blow to the enemy. Calculations were made that showed the potential loss of American lives, if the fire bombing was to drag out. A decision was made to drop atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. These devastating actions forced the Japanese leaders to finally surrender. This gallery paints a somber picture of the total destruction.

Back in the Present

Our time had run out, and we were forced to leave before truly studying all of the exhibits. One of the staff members pointed out that the construction equipment we had seen outside was in the process of starting an expansion of the National World War II Museum. With what we had missed, and the promise of even more new galleries, we know that a return visit will be required. Museums such as this are a stark reminder of the cost of peace that we humans face every day. As we find ourselves pitted in an ongoing struggle with nature, wouldn’t it be better for us to focus our efforts on fighting other global challenges. How many of you have visited the National World War II Museum in New Orleans?

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Hidden in Plain Sight

There is nothing quite like wandering the streets of the French Quarter. The closest experience we can associate with it would be the cobblestone streets in St. Thomas. In New Orleans, the history seems to flow from the buildings, and every turn offers new sights. Each street and alley holds its own little secrets, tucked away from plain sight. It is only by traversing them that you find the hidden gems like Cafe Envie.

Not All Beignets

A ritual for us is at least one meal of beignets and chicory coffee. For this we will most often visit Cafe Du Monde. We have found them in other eateries, but the original still holds a special place in our stomachs hearts. Of course, being realists means that some of our breakfasts need to incorporate more traditional dishes. During our explorations, we happened across Cafe Envie on Decatur Street. We made note to try it for breakfast the next day. They have a moderate menu, and we were happy to find a protein filled plate to fuel our busy day of exploration. We spied their pastry case, before departing, but were too full to take on any additional bites.

Food Envie in the French Quarter

Fast forward to the next day, and we once again found ourselves wandering the French Quarter. Struck with a hungry desire between meals, we decided that a sweet bite would tide us over until dinner time. Be prepared to see tons of candy shops while exploring New Orleans. While these all looked scrumptious, Crystal had her heart set on a piece of Pecan Pie. After all, where better to get one that in the home of southern cuisine. While racking our brains for a place to go, we remembered the food Envie we had experienced earlier in our trip.

Pie With Purpose

A nice thing about the French Quarter is that it is easily traversed by foot, so in no time we were back at this delectable eatery. Soon we found ourselves enjoying our sweet rewards, while watching shoppers wander by outside. I will have to admit that I am not a fan of Pecan Pie, but Crystal more than makes up for it. I could quickly surmise that she was ecstatic to have found a source for her golden treasure. When I asked her how she liked it, the smile that formed across her face said more than she could with words. Have no fear, I was able to identify a treat that satisfied my sweet tooth, as well.  A moist slice of their Chocolate Cake was just what I needed to keep me from jealousy. This creamy decadent delight was the perfect treat for me. Which of these choices would you have chosen?

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We want to thank the Louisiana State Museum for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

Party Central

Visiting the Presbytére Museum offers a glimpse at the history and regalia of Mardi Gras. The museum has two floors of artifacts, with the first floor being dedicated to galleries about Hurricane Katrina’s impact on the city. (You can read about the Katrina exhibit here.) The second floor is all about the greatest free show on earth. The first Mardi Gras parade took place in 1857 with just one Krewe (sponsoring social group). This annual tradition began with only a handful of floats . They followed it with a ball, which is another highly anticipated event. Formal balls had been a New Orleans Mardi Gras tradition since the 1740’s. These high society events were elegant extravaganzas designed to celebrate the coming of Lent.

Parade Requirement

If you have ever visited New Orleans, you know how much music has become part of everyday life. During our last visit, we not only witnessed one of the street parades, we were in one. For the Greatest Free Show on Earth, they assemble entire marching bands to lead the way. Bedecked in glittering uniforms, they blast out tunes to get the crowd engaged. The party atmosphere really kicks in when the marching bands pass by.

Throw It To Me!

When people hear the name Mardi Gras, their thoughts conjure up images of beads being thrown out to the crowds. Would it surprise you to find out that there are a variety of throws that are tossed to the thousands of revelers? Besides the various beads, parade participants dispense toys, trinkets, and doubloons. The doubloons are a modern day version of the medallions that were once tossed to the open hands of the eager crowds. These two-sided coins will usually have the Krewe’s emblem on one side and the parade theme on the other. If you are really lucky, you might just snag on of the custom throws that are periodically tossed out. These could include coconuts, shoes, purses or even genie lamps. These ornately decorated trinkets are considered prize possessions by those lucky enough to get one.

Greatest Free Show On Earth

The Mardi Gras exhibit at the Presbytére Museum tries to give visitors the perspective of those riding on the floats. We can only imagine the non-stop calls and cries for attention that fall on them through the entire parade route. Being part of the Greatest Free Show on Earth would certainly be fun, but at the same time it could be exhausting. From our point of view, we will stick to being on the street side of the event. Would you want to be a Krewe member?

Mardi Gras Colors

Many recognize that purple, gold, and green seem to dominate the color palate during Mardi Gras. The colors can be traced back to the first Rex parade. Each color was chosen to represent a specific symbol. Purple represents Justice. Gold represents Power. Green represents Faith. These three colors were established in 1872, and are now found all throughout the city during Mardi Gras.

Krewe Royalty

So you think the parades are all that happen during Mardi Gras. Would it surprise you to find out that there are other tradition events that take place during the Greatest Free Show on Earth? Some of these are private affairs that are planned for an entire year. Each Krewe will hold a ball, which is hosted by the king and queen. While these are not usually open to the public, most people are not bothered by the lack of an invitation.

Taking Bedazzled to Another Level

Speaking of the king and queen of the Krewes, what would royalty be without their crowned jewels? As we made our way through the exhibits at the Presbytére, we came upon a series of cases filled with all sorts of royal artifacts. These are from various Krewe balls of the past and are amazing in detail. It shows just how serious the business of Mardi Gras is to those involved. You won’t want to miss seeing these glittering pieces.

Always Counting Down

Near the end of the exhibit, we came upon the countdown clock for the next Mardi Gras season. In New Orleans they are always looking forward to the next good party. We haven’t made it to an actual Mardi Gras parade, but we were fortunate enough to attend another holiday event. One of our previous visits took place during St. Patrick’s Day. It may have only been a one night parade, but it was amazing to behold. After successfully navigating that experience, we are now prepared to take it to the next level. Have you ever been to a Mardi Gras parade? We’d love to hear about your experience!

The post Greatest Free Show On Earth – New Orleans Mardi Gras appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We would like to thank the Louisiana State Museum for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

A Storm is Brewing

The hurricane season of 2005 was not typical, by any means. With 28 tropical storms and 15 hurricanes, it far outpaced any previously recorded year. The worst part of the record was that 4 of the hurricanes were category 5, which is the highest level. Some will remember Hurricane Wilma, which became the strongest storm ever. Others might recall Hurricane Vince, which formed farther north than any other storm of its kind. These storms became historical footnotes that followed the most disastrous hurricane to ever make landfall in the U.S. What happened in the Gulf of Mexico would test the resilience of New Orleans for years to come.

Iconic Scenes

In late August of 2005, two smaller storms collided in the Caribbean and melded into Tropical Storm Katrina. It quickly achieved hurricane status and strafed Florida on its way into the gulf. The Florida landfall weakened it, but once back in the Gulf of Mexico it strengthened. As it moved across these open waters, the nation held its collective breath, while it waited to see where landfall would occur. When it hit land this time, it contained winds of 120 mph and unbelievable amounts of rain. At its peak, Hurricane Katrina was so wide that it stretched across the Gulf of Mexico. While mandatory evacuation was announced in New Orleans, many of the city’s poor and elderly lacked the ability to flee. These people hunkered down in their homes, where conditions would rapidly deteriorate.

Worry Turns to Anger

On August 29, Hurricane Katrina made landfall in Biloxi, Mississippi. A short period of false hope was given to those remaining in New Orleans. Failure of a levee caused a surge of floodwaters to rush into the lower areas of the city. This contributed to more levees being breeched. In the end, over 50 breeches occured, which left about 80% of the city flooded. While this was horrific, more devastation would come from the floodwaters lingering for weeks. The world watched as the storm surge from the hurricane pushed up to 19 feet of water back up the Mississippi River. The floodwaters simpy had nowhere to go. Approximately 26,000 New Orleans residents had sought shelter at the Superdome, which was one of the city’s “refuges of last resort”.

The Aftermath

It is estimated that 80% of New Orleans residents had evacuated the city, prior to Hurricane Katrina making landfall. Of those that remained, around 1200 would lose their lives. After the storm passed, rescue efforts were slow to become engaged, which added to the anger of those left behind. The hurricane would go down in the record books as the most costly, with estimated property damage of $125 billion. It left a widespread impact across the nation. Nearly 400,000 residents were permanently displaced. Those that did return brought with them the resilience of New Orleans.

The Resilience of New Orleans

Rebuilding would take many years, as it would also included redesigning the levee system. When we visited in 2018, they had already spent almost $15 billion on the new levees, and more were still needed. Before this visit, our last had been in the spring of 2004, so it was eye opening to see how much of the impact of the hurricane still remained. This doesn’t mean that the people of New Orleans laid down and gave up. Contrary to that, they returned to their city with determination to resurrect it. With renewed hope, donations poured in from all around the globe. While life would never be the same for the residents of New Orleans, for many it would go on.

The People’s Stories

In the days and weeks following the hurricane, many stories would surface about the resilience of the residents of New Orleans. As we made our way through the first floor of the Presbytère, we found an exhibit that detailed one of these stories. Tommy Elton Mabry was 53 years old when Hurricane Katrina struck New Orleans. Starting the day before the storm made landfall, he would chronicle his life on the walls of his apartment. He would continue this for eight weeks, recording the aftermath and subsequent rescue period. While the entries are mundane when looked at individually, as a whole they reflect the spirit of a city reeling from devastation. This was one of the most poignant displays we have ever encountered.

The Big Easy Returns

As we made our way through the rest of the Hurricane Katrina galleries, we found exhibits that displayed how the levee system was designed and its purpose. Hands-on displays allow visitors to see the effects of nature on these man made structures. It certainly shows how vulnerable some of our cities are to the forces of nature. Being from the Midwest, we understand the devastation that can come from flooding. As we finished our tour of the first floor of the Presbytère, we now had a better understanding of the impact that Hurricane Katrina had on the residents of the city. When we stepped back out in the afternoon sunlight, we had a new perspective on this amazing place. Do you remember being glued to the television for updates on the situation in New Orleans?

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Escaping A Storm

Our arrival was made by using the streetcar, which runs right next to the market stalls. The morning was filled with stormy weather, but we weren’t letting that stop us. When the streetcar reached our stop, we scurried through a downpour to the nearest stall. Inside, we found dozens of vendors exhibits filled with flashy colors, flavorful treats, and unusual trinkets for residents and visitors to snatch up. As the storm continued on the outside, we set about exploring the space that laid out before us.

New Orleans Trinkets

When we hear the name New Orleans there are certain things that immediately come to mind. Food is an important part of the city’s draw, as well as their propensity for throwing a great party. Of course, most of us will think of BEADS. What other city makes you think of a connection like this? We’ve all seen the brightly colored strings at Mardi Gras parties or local bars. A visit to the 5 blocks of fun shops in the French Market will open your eyes to an amazing variety. It would be easy to get caught up in trying to collect as many kinds as possible. Just make sure you have enough room in your luggage.

French Market Finds

So now that you’ve selected your beads, what other novelties can you find in New Orleans? Obviously the Fleur-de-lis is prominent due to the French connection with the city’s history. With 5 blocks of shops and stalls, just about anything and everything is available. There are a lot of local artisans on site displaying their creations. What market would be complete without vendors booths filled with knock-off bags and purses? Every once in a while you will move into a new space and be confronted with something so unique that it cries out New Orleans. What about an alligator head?

Feast for the Senses

Since we are on the topic of water creatures, why limit the experience to just novelty items. With the Mississippi River, Gulf of Mexico, and nearby swamps to pull from, you will find all kinds of aquatic delicacies. We can still remember our first visit to the Big Easy, when we had our first taste of alligator meat. Who would imagine that gator-on-a-stick would be so delightful? These days we usually opt for the more run-of-the-mill seafood dishes, but it can still be tempting to sample an offbeat delicacy.

Hunger Strikes Us

It’s easy to wile away a couple of hours in the French Market, since there’s so much to see. Our clothes had completely dried and hunger was beginning to set in. In New Orleans it can be hard to tell if you are really hungry or if it’s all of the tempting dishes that are displayed everywhere you go. Either way, it was time for us to sample a little bite of a Crescent City classic. Since the muffaletta sandwich is a New Orleans original, we thought we should give it a try.

Muscling a Muffaletta

A combination of salami, ham, cheese, and marinated olive salad are slathered in a muffaletta loaf. The end result is a flavor filled dish that kept us coming back for more. A nearby vendor offered up an adult fruit smoothie that helped wash down our snack. With our appetites satisfied, we returned to exploring the 5 blocks of fun. As we approached the southwestern end of the French Market, we found it be filled with more permanent shops, versus the local vendors we had seen earlier. Here we discovered one of the local candymakers, which we will talk about in an upcoming article. Suffice to say, those with a sweet tooth will find plenty to choose from in New Orleans.

Back Into the French Quarter

The rain had subsided, and it was time to move along. We passed Cafe Du Monde, which was doing brisk business even in the middle of the afternoon. (You can read more about this NOLA staple here.) We passed down Decatur Street, which happens to be home of the first muffaletta sandwiches. Soon our journey drew us back into the French Quarter to explore some of the unique shops that are found along every street and alley. When you plan your trip to New Orleans you will want to save time to visit the French Market. It’s’ 5 blocks of fun and a great place to grab a bite and some souvenirs from your visit.

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We would like to thank the Louisiana State Museum for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Seeing It Our Way

The Cabildo has a history that is intertwined with the Crescent City. Built just before 1800, the building was the site of the Louisiana Purchase transfer in 1803. Throughout the 1800’s, the Cabildo served a role in governmental duties. It even served as the headquarters for the Louisiana Supreme Court, for many years. In 1908, the Louisiana State Museum took over use of the building for the purpose of educating the public on the historical significance of the city. These days visitors can wander the museum on a self-guided approach or choose to join one of the guided tours. Since we have our own unique approach when it comes to research, we chose to go it on our own.

The Early Days in New Orleans

The earliest days of the city began as a French trading camp along the banks of the Mississippi River. Before long, a small grid of plotted streets were laid out in the area which would become known as the French Quarter. In this grid was the Plaza d’Armes, which would later become known as Jackson Square. This multiple use space held parade grounds for troops, as well as an open air market. The governor’s mansion, which in Spanish is called Cabildo, faced the square. While the French were some of the earliest residents, they gave up control of Louisiana territory to the Spanish to repay a war debt. Many of the buildings constructed in the late 1700’s bear the Spanish influence.

Touring the Cabildo

Now that we have a little background on the building, let’s dive into the interior. The Cabildo has three floors of exhibits that display the early days of New Orleans life. Since the building was not built as a museum, the exhibits are designed to fill the spaces available. Much of the area is a series of hallways that lead to various rooms. The staff has done an excellent job at leading visitors through time, as they pass through the spaces. Beautiful paintings and sculptures highlight life in a simpler time, and clearly reflect the French and Spanish influences during these early years.

Shall We Dance?

The late 1700’s and early 1800’s were a period filled with formality. Since this part of the city was the headquarters for the government agencies, it would have seen a variety of elegant events. One of the galleries we toured whisked us back in time to the days of fancy parties. We could almost imagine ourselves at the Governor’s Ball.

Scattered throughout the museum are a series of video boards, that help show life during the various periods. We really enjoyed this one, that highlights some of the fanciful dance steps. Can you imagine performing such a highly choreographed dance, while wearing these heavy garments? It must have been quite the spectacle.

A Telling Time in New Orleans

As we continued to move forward in time, we came to the period that focuses on a turning point in New Orleans history. Many are well aware of the Revolutionary War, which determined the right for the United States to be self-ruled. A variety of causes were affecting the political atmosphere in the early 1800’s, and with them was the desire of expansion by the new American country. The War of 1812 had many causes and effects, which will be held for some other article, but here we will focus on the tail end of the conflict.

War During Peace

After four years of skirmishes and ruffled feathers, both the U.S. and Britain had tired of the war. The citizens of both countries were ready to return to a non-combative lifestyle. In late 1814, peace negotiations were completed with the Treaty of Ghent. The knowledge of this treaty had not yet reached all of the British troops. One group was preparing for an invasion into Louisiana, which would become the final battle of the war.

Rallying Troops in New Orleans

By mid-December of 1814, about 60 British ships were parked in the Gulf of Mexico near New Orleans. With over 14,000 troops on board, this was a significant threat to the territory. A small number of American gunboats were preventing the British from accessing the nearby lakes. After a short skirmish, the British were able to commandeer a foothold on land east of New Orleans.

Moving westward, about 1800 British soldiers made their way to the eastern edge of the Mississippi River, by December 23rd. As luck would have it, the British decided to wait for reinforcements at this point. If they had continued their pursuit at the time, they would have found the road to the city undefended. News of the advancement made its way to General Andrew Jackson, who quickly assembled forces for an assault on the encampment. While the attack only inflicted minor casualties, it did add to the cautious nature of the British advancement. This would offer American forces valuable time to prepare for the successful defense of the city. The final battle would be one of the most lopsided victories of the war.

Defending The Waterways

Key to the American defenses were the use of cannons and howitzers. A wide range of sizes were installed along the banks of the river. The Cabildo includes plenty of information about these defensive works, as well as a chance to see what the soldiers would have experienced. Since the cannons were various sizes, each would have used a specific size of cannonball. A display at the museum allows guests to feel the weight of each ball, as well as seeing one of the cannons used during the defense of the city. It’s an eye opener, when you consider how many shots would have been required during a battle.

Sensationalized Participant

In a previous article, we told the story of Jean Lafitte. This privateer (Fancy name for a pirate) helped turn the tide for American forces during the battle of New Orleans. (You can read that story here.) The sensationalism of the pirate turned hero would become a legend that was repeated for future generations. In 1938, Movie maker Cecil B. De Mille would release The Buccaneer, which would be remade in 1958 by his son-in-law Anthony Quinn. This highly fictionalized version of history was still fun to watch, even if it was inaccurate on many points.

The Hits Keep Coming

The Battle of New Orleans not only made it to the silver screen, it also became popular over the air waves. A school principal form Arkansas penned a comical tune based loosely on the events of this final battle. It was recorded by many artists, but one of the most popular versions was performed by Johnny Horton. We had a chance to listen to two of the more well-known recordings and decide which we liked the most. Listening to the song, we could remember it from our childhoods. Little did we realize at that time that the melody was referring to the early days of New Orleans. It just goes to show how things can come full circle.

Back in The Big Easy

We wrapped up our tour of the Cabildo, and headed back out into Jackson Square. The warm, moist air greeted us, as we squinted from the midday light. The bustling crowd outside was comprised of a mix of tourists, shoppers, and entertainers. An amatuer jazz band played in the courtyard, as artists hawked their paintings along the fence line. Everywhere we looked was action, yet it seemed so relaxed and purposeful. This is New Orleans. It is a beautiful city filled with eclectic people who each bring their own story to bear in the tapestry that makes up the atmosphere. It’s unlike any other city on the planet, and begs to be explored. Have you ever visited The Big Easy? What were some of the special places you discovered?

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We would like to thank the Louisiana State Museum for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

The Pontalba Buildings

In the late 1840’s, two block-long buildings were constructed. At four-stories tall, they now serve as bookends for Jackson Square. The Parisian style row houses cost around $300,000 at the time of construction. Upon completion, they would include the first recorded use of iron railings in New Orleans. The design of the buildings was for retail establishments along the ground floor with residence spaces above.

Victorian Elegance

1850 House is designed to capture a moment in time. This would have been the beginning of the “Golden Age” of the Victorian Era. England was at its most prosperous point. All across America, it was fashionable to emulate the culture of Britain. Life revolved around family time, so many people focused on maximizing the luxuries at home.  The dining room was laid out with ornately carved table and chairs. Buffets and sideboards were commonly used furniture pieces that have since lost their popularity.

Life During Westward Expansion

Huge pocket doors separated various living quarter spaces. All through the 1850 House, we noticed wonderful woodwork. The sheer size and scale of the rooms are hard to grasp, but they were built in another time. A time when elegance was the fashion.

We moved to the next area, which would have served as the parlor. A combination of office and conversation areas make up this space. Beautiful furniture is assembled in groupings, designed for various purposes. Beautiful dark grained woods make up a major component of the pieces, along with luxurious textiles. All are designed to make visitors feel the importance associated with each piece.

Sleeping Quarters

Decor in the bedrooms was just as important, for those experiencing life during westward expansion. The beds are amazingly ornate and stood out as the main attention-getter in the rooms. Of course, as we spent time examining the rest of the room, other key pieces also jumped out at us. A child’s crib stood nearby covered with netting to protect from insects. In these days of climate control, it’s easy to forget that life during the westward expansion would have required residents to face sweltering heat and humid days.

The children’s bedrooms would have been used for sleep, as well as play. Once again, we noticed how well designed the furniture pieces were constructed. We could almost imagine the children of the house at play during a warm Spring day.

Space Saving Feature

As we finished our tour of the main building, it was time to head out back. A narrow circular staircase offered access between floors, without occupying too much space. While the stairs were steep, we were in awe at how well they have remained after almost 170 years of use. It certainly speaks of the quality of workmanship that went into every piece of the 1850 House.

At the back of the 1850 House, we passed by the kitchen space. Here the cooking for the residents of the house would have been handled. The furniture pieces were much more primitive, as they were designed for purpose instead of decoration. The cast iron stove and oven would have been used to cook the meals for the family. We could almost smell the Creole and Cajun spices drifting out of the kitchen, as the evening’s meal was being prepared.

The New Orleans Experience

After finishing our visit, we took a quick look around the 1850 House Museum Store. The store is operated by the Friends of the Cabildo, which is another museum in the Louisiana State Museum collection. As we looked around the store, we saw plenty of interesting souvenir options like; pottery, jewelry, and art from local artisans, as well as books on just about every subject familiar to New Orleans. A visit to the 1850 House can last as long or short as your schedule allows. The tours are self-guided, so you can move at your own pace. Our stop took about one hour, and we felt like we got a good sense of the historic significance of the building. When was the last time you had the chance to see a slice of life during the westward expansion?

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Why Visit Gumbo Shop

The French Quarter is the oldest section of New Orleans. The building housing Gumbo Shop is one of the oldest in the area. Built after the big fire of 1794, the structure has served many purposes. (Learn more New Orleans history here.) It wasn’t until 1920, that it finally became home of its current resident. Since that time, it has had three owners. The original family operated it until 1960’s, bringing their Italian family influence to bear on the menu. The current owners took over in 2008, and have strived to maintain the tradition of serving Creole cuisine to customers from far and wide. We knew that this place can get very busy, but weren’t going to pass up a visit. Our compromise was a stop between lunch and dinner times. Even with the odd timing, Gumbo Shop was still seeing steady business.

New Orleans Dining Tradition

It’s hard to pick just one dish to represent an entire cultural cuisine. We decided it would be a shame to limit our choice, so we chose to share a Creole Combination Platter. This oversized dinner has plenty of flavors to offer up. Our plate gave us a chance to taste a pleasing Shrimp Creole. This dish differs from etouffee by using a thinner sauce, which had a nice bit of heat. The other end of the platter was awash with a hearty helping of Red Beans & Rice. This New Orleans staple contains kidney beans cooked with spices and the trio of onion, celery, and bell peppers. In the middle of our dish, was a pile of the house made Jambalaya. Shrimp, chicken, and smoked sausage are combined with a spiced rice to create a savory treat.

Don’t Skip This Stop

New Orleans is filled with so many great restaurants that it’s hard to imagine ever sampling even a quarter of them. When you visit The Big Easy, you’ll certainly want to savor as many of the diverse cuisines that can be found there. Places like Gumbo Shop are part of an experience that can only be found in the Crescent City. During our two visits, we made sure not to repeat any stops, as we wanted to get as much variety, as possible. Be sure to check back to see some of the other NOLA classics that we will be sharing. In the meantime, “Let the Good Times Roll”.

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Who Was Jean Lafitte?

In the early 1800’s, pirates plied the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea. Although his family origins are vague, he was known to be operating a warehouse in New Orleans by 1805. The city of New Orleans was nearly 100 years old by that time. In 1803, the city was included in the lands purchased by the United States in the Louisiana Purchase. This was the impetus for rapid growth, as a variety of immigrants swarmed into the Crescent City. During the same period, thousands of refugees would arrive, after fleeing the Haitian Revolution. To help curb pirating, the United States government instituted an embargo act in 1807.

An Unlikely Hero

After the embargo, Jean Lafitte moved his smuggling operation to Barataria Bay, located in the islands south of the city. His ongoing business soon became a point of conflict with local authorities. A series of conflicts, eventually led to Lafitte’s arrest and conviction for acts of piracy. These events coincided with the United States entering into conflict with England, during the War of 1812. The U.S. feared that Lafitte would join forces with the British, and they attacked his smuggling stronghold in the fall of 1814. General Andrew Jackson arrived before the end of the year, and found New Orleans to be almost completely defenseless. Jackson realized that he needed to forge an alliance with Jean Lafitte, if the city was to be defended.

The British Are Coming

When Andrew Jackson met with Jean Lafitte, a compromise was found. All of Lafitte’s men, who agreed to serve, would be pardoned. At Lafitte’s urging, they were able to man the available ships, with enough left over to create three infantry companies. Just in time, as the British ships arrived a couple of weeks later. A few small skirmishes occured over the following days, but they were merely a precursor to what was ahead.

Battle of New Orleans

January 8, 1815 would mark the last major battle of the War of 1812. A series of delays on the side of the British allowed the American forces time to prepare for the attack. After losing over 2000 men, the British were finally repelled and eventually sailed east from New Orleans. The American forces suffered a loss of less than 100 men. General Jackson commended Lafitte for his role in the Battle of New Orleans, and President James Madison issued a pardon for Him and his men. This final battle became a legendary victory that was memorialized in stories and songs.

Sights and Sounds of the French Quarter

The French Quarter Visitor Center offers guests a peek inside the 78 square blocks that make up this unique tourist destination. The entire French Quarter district is designated as a National Historic Landmark. Many of the buildings date from the 1700’s through the 1800’s. A combination of Spanish and French designs are evident in the architecture. These days, travelers will find a collection of shops, restaurants, bars, and hotels occupying the historic buildings. As you pass down the ages old streets, the sounds of the city float through the air. At the visitor center you can hear examples of the various music types, which makes it easier to identify when wandering the Quarter.

Tasting The Big Easy

The sounds and sights of New Orleans have changed, since the days when Jean Lafitte wandered the French Quarter. Some things have stood the test of time, like the tastes brought to the area by the various cultures. These days, these flavors have blended together to create the unique cuisines that come to mind when the city is mentioned. Gumbo, jambalaya, beignets, muffulettas, and Po-boys are just a few of the dishes that are tied to the history of The Big Easy.

Research Doesn’t Have to be Work

Having an opportunity to revisit New Orleans was one of the highlights of our year. The Big Easy is unlike any other American city, and needs to be experienced at least once. The unique atmosphere makes it easy to imagine the days when characters like Jean Lafitte wandered the streets and alleys. Walking through the avenues, you can almost feel their presence still enveloped in the mood of this river city. Of course, there have been plenty of changes, since those days. Today you will see cruise ships lining the docks and freighters plying the waters of the Mississippi River. We have to wonder how the pirates would have handled these advancements. Are you ready to experience the Crescent City for yourself?

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The Beignet Way to Start Our Day

Getting a head start on our day is important, if we want to cover our schedule. We will purposely overload our days, so that we will end up seeing more places than would usually be done by an average vacationer. Our goal is to show you as many options as we can, so you can pick the ones that most appeal to you. To get all of this moving accomplished, we need to keep our bodies fueled. Our morning ritual will always include coffee, and we are flexible enough to test out the local type. In New Orleans, that means a cup of chicory-blend coffee with a plate of fluffy beignets. The combination of these two is actually a blending of staples from the menus of the Creoles and Cajuns.

Coffee Comes to the Gulf Coast

Around 1700, the French began to settle along the Gulf Coast, and brought with them coffee beans. By the time of the Civil War, the Creole people began blending regular coffee beans with chicory to develop their unique brew. This was partly due to a coffee shortage at that time. This new flavor combination became so popular, that after the end of the war it continued right up to today. The addition of chicory brings a slightly bitter, but chocolaty flavor to the drink. Combining this brew with scalded milk turns it into café au lait. This interesting coffee variation was a perfect brew to accompany our morning treat, and is a New Orleans staple at Café Du Monde.

A Different Doughnut

New Orleans is the quintessential “foodie” city. Restaurants and eateries of all kinds can be found throughout the city. They are so proud of the foods they serve that many places have kitchens designed to showcase the creation process. We were fascinated by the dough roller that helps create the square biscuits, which would soon become our breakfast. The Cajun people, from Nova Scotia, brought their own French flavors to the landscape of New Orleans. Their version of the doughnut comes without a hole, and is square. Once this doughy biscuit is fried, it plumps up, which signals it’s ready for a heavy dose of powdered sugar.

Getting Our New Orleans Staple

During our planning stage, for this New Orleans visit, I was already anticipating at least one stop at Café Du Monde. Beignets are sold in sets of three, at Café Du Monde. The airy, sugary treats are a little messy to eat, but oh so good. Our satellite shop wasn’t open 24 hours a day, as that is only available at the original site in the French market. After savoring our long-awaited New Orleans staple breakfast, we were amped up with enough energy to get our day going. Off we headed to the French Quarter, which was only a couple blocks from our hotel.

Cruising Through The  Crescent City

Our return to New Orleans was one of our most highly anticipated trips on our 2018 schedule. While we only had a handful of days to explore, we planned on making the most of our available time. The Crescent City is unlike any other city in the world, and must be experienced at least once in your lifetime. The sights, sounds, and smells are distinct to this place, and will permeate your memories. This visit was our first since Hurricane Katrina, and we were glad to see that much of the city had rebounded. Their 300th birthday celebration was also a time to reflect on the resiliency of the people of this close knit community. Marching bands, street parties, delicious foods, and live jazz are all New Orleans staples, and are part of the tapestry of this unique city. When was your last visit to the Big Easy?

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