Day Trip Destination

The Amtrak has a route that runs through Kansas City, our hometown. Looking at the possible destinations, Hermann seemed a logical choice. This Missouri town is steeped in the German tradition. Our timing would allow for a visit during their annual Oktoberfest. An early morning start had us waiting in anticipation for the start of our trip. Before long, we made our way to the cars and found ourselves all alone in the business class section. We quickly determined that it was a worthwhile upgrade that allowed us more room to explore. About four hours later, our Amtrak escape pulled into the station in Hermann.

Food First

After the long ride, we had two things on our minds. The first was to really stretch our legs, which came immediately upon stepping off the train. Our Amtrak escape had deposited just a block off of the main drag through town. This made for an extremely convenient starting point. Having visited Hermann in the past, we already had a firm grasp on the lay of the land. Just a short stroll away, we discovered our lunch destination. While this town is filled with plenty of German cuisines, we were anxious to sample a newer restaurant named Doxie Slush. The unique combination of frozen cocktails and chef-inspired dishes worked its wonder on us. By the time we left the restaurant, we were ready to do some major exploring.

Exploring Hermann

Hermann, Missouri is certainly an out-of-the-ordinary experience. It may not be a huge town, but it is packed with fun and friendly people. We followed the steady stream of visitors who were checking out the local shops. While our ability to carry a lot was limited by our mode of transportation, we still like to spread tourism dollars whenever possible. Hermann has some cute boutique-style shops that offer a wide range of products, so we had no problem finding a few new treasures. As we stepped out of one shop, we found this pair waiting on a bench. The warm fall day was perfect for sharing a snack (or a selfie) with a friend.

Hermann Heritage

I had researched the town and determined a path that allowed for maximum pleasure in our five-hour window. The Amtrak schedule can be a little loose, so it is wise to return to the station on time. Even with these limitations, we found plenty of time to enjoy the local history museum. We enjoy finding places like this because it gives us some additional background on the destination we are visiting. This particular museum is filled with stories of the German heritage that permeates the community.

Oktoberfest to Remember

Our Amtrak escape was designed to happen during Oktoberfest for a reason. In the past, this annual event would find the town swarming with visitors. Any plans for an overnight stay required months of advance preparation. Since this was just a day trip, we were confident that the traffic would be more manageable. Little did we realize just how much of a damper the pandemic would put on the celebration. Even though the restrictions had not completely been implemented, the growing concern had obviously kept droves of potential partiers away.

The Best and Wurst

With the thinner crowds, it allowed us more room to roam. Our past visits have always fallen outside of the town’s festivals. Even an average summer weekend can draw astonishing crowds. While Hermann was abuzz with festival activity, we realized that it was still an off-year. This meant that we almost had run of the place, and made popping in and out of various shops fairly simple. Two of the main draws are the readily available wines and German cuisine. Even though the departure hour was approaching, we still had plenty of time to do some sampling of the wine and wurst available for purchasing. Of course, not having a car limited the amount of product we could carry home.

Down by the Station

Time was winding down, so we started back to the Amtrak station. Having it so close to downtown is very convenient. I had downloaded an app on my phone that allowed me to see how the train was doing on its schedule. Obviously, it had run into delays at another station, so we found ourselves with a little extra time on our hands. Just behind the station is a riverside park, so we wandered over for a look-see. It was a nice diversion from just standing around with the others and since we had business class seating, we knew there would be no rush on our seats.

Parting Ways

Watching as the day waned, we thought back to the time we had spent in Hermann. The fall day was turning toward evening and the chill air began to descend. Our hope had been that we would see the beauty of the changing seasons, but it seemed to be lagging this year. Still, here and there we would spot some colors poking through and we knew the chillier evenings were fast approaching. We are betting that this town is beautiful when the fall colors are in their prime.

Amtrak Escape

Even before we heard the whistle of the approaching train, the crowd began working their way toward the gate. It was apparent that others were using the Amtrak app, as well. We saw no reason to rush since the train wouldn’t be leaving until everyone was on board. Sure enough, once we climbed back aboard, we found plenty of open seating in our car. There were a few others, which we had picked up about halfway across the state. We listened to their stories, as the train lurched down the tracks. The final portion of our ride was spent in solitude, just watching the passing lights and darkening landscape beyond the windows. Our inaugural Amtrak escape went swimmingly, so who knows what the future will hold.

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Lay of the Land

After a 4-hour Amtrak journey, we were ready to stretch our legs. Stepping out of the train, we were greeted by the sight of brick buildings lining the main drag through downtown. With this being a pandemic year, the atmosphere was a little off from the past. Oktoberfest is the largest annual festival held in Hermann. It draws thousands of visitors eager to sample the flavors of German culture. Toss in some wine and wurst, and you have the makings of a real German celebration. 2020 saw a slightly different sight, as the usually packed sidewalks were more manageable for social distancing.

Taking It All In

While our lunch plans had been set before our arrival, we still wanted to check out the local food scene. A sign advertising free samples are not to be passed up. The Hermann Wurst Haus is definitely the kind of place that evokes feelings of an authentic German shop. Stepping across the threshold, we were greeted by the sight of an amazing meat counter. All around us we saw bratwursts and sausages on display. The urge to stock up had us kicking ourselves for not bringing a cooler. This is definitely a “must-have” for future visits.

Quaintness Found

Our train home would not be leaving until early evening, so that gave us a few hours to explore the town. Hermann is filled with a nice selection of boutique-style shops. As we wandered along, we found spaces filled with garden art, apparel, home decorations, and a plethora of antique stores. Hermann is easy to navigate on foot and we enjoyed the building artwork that we spotted along our walk.

Vine-Covered Hills

In the early days of Hermann, the hillsides and town’s empty lots were covered with grapevines. During the 1800s, they were considered one of the largest producers of wine in the world. Unfortunately, prohibition dealt an ugly blow to the town. Not only were the wineries silenced, but even the grapevines were also torn out of the soil. As we wandered around town, we tried to imagine how disheartening it must have been for the townspeople. These days the local wineries are working hard to rebuild their status in the wine-making world.

Hometown Heritage

Down on the main tourist path, we happened upon Hermannhof Winery. This space is one of the early buildings in Hermann. This tourism town is filled with sites that are on the National Register of Historic Places. This particular winery was built in 1852, in what was the French section of the city, and sits above 10 huge stone cellars. This allowed Hermannhof to become a major storage facility for not just their wines, but some of the smaller winemakers around the town. They have also expanded to include a restaurant, inn, distillery, and a living history farm. Their selection of wine and wurst choices make it easy to assemble an impromptu picnic in the countryside.

Distinct Flavors

These days the winery produces about 15,000 cases per year. The wines are fermented in white oak barrels from France and Missouri. Their attention to detail has been rewarded with accolades from their peers worldwide. We stepped in for a wine tasting, which is all the rage during Oktoberfest. Being lovers of white wines, we were excited to see they offer Vignoles. This is our favorite variety at our favorite KC metro winery. At the end of our tasting, we picked out a couple of varieties to take home.

Wine and Wurst in Hermann, Missouri

In the past, we have made short stops in Hermann, Missouri. Most of these have been to stretch our legs during a trip from point A to point B. This was our first visit that had this German heritage town as our main destination. We wanted to see just how much of an adventure it would make, and we discovered that a day trip limited our ability to explore. While it is possible to see the highlights of such a visit, we believe an overnight stay would allow us to get a better feel for the town’s flavors and personality. It was obvious to us that this would not be our last visit to Hermann, Missouri.

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River Highway

Way back in 1837, a company was established to help settle areas in the west. In Philadelphia, the German Settlement Society had a goal to perpetuate the German culture in America. An influx of farmers, artisans, and professionals was assembling in the east and they desired land that they could sculpt as their own. George Frederick Bayer dreamed of finding a location where German immigrants could live in partial isolation in the “far west”. The hope was that they could retain their historic customs and language in this new colony. 11,000 acres of government land was secured and preparations were made for the journey.

Taming the Wilderness

The memories of Germany were still fresh in their minds, as the first seventeen settlers made their way to Gasconade County in the Fall of 1837. Traveling by boat, they made their way to St. Louis, Missouri. Due to an unexpected illness, George Bayer was unable to accompany this first group. Others followed but decided to spend the winter in St. Louis. Those first settlers were expecting to find a land of “milk and honey”, but instead discovered a rugged wilderness. Far from other settlements, they had certainly found the isolation that they had been promised. Disillusionment set in as they began the task of clearing the heavily wooded hills and taming the wilderness.

Life’s Diversions

Bayer and his family arrived in the Spring of 1838 and found an upset of settlers. His list of responsibilities ranged from surveying the land to overseeing construction and supply of provisions, among other things. The list may have been far too much for one individual to handle, and letters began pouring into the company office back in Philadelphia. Before long, hundreds more began arriving to aid in the town’s development. Streets were laid out in accordance with plans that had previously been drawn. As they cleared the land, they discovered tangles of wild grapes covering the hillsides.

Retaining Their Heritage

Their homeland of Germany has a long-established wine-making history that dates back to ancient Roman times. The rolling hills south of the Missouri River have strange similarities to lands along the Rhine River. Taking their cue from nature, the German immigrants began planting hybrid varieties of grapes. Their task of taming the wilderness was aided by falling back on familiar tasks. The earliest wines were a failure, as far as quality, but they quickly learned from their mistakes. By 1843, wine-making in Hermann was beginning to blossom. The first Weinfest was held in 1848 and has continued to the present and renamed Oktoberfest.

German Heritage

As more immigrants arrived in Hermann, they increased the breadth of wine-making knowledge. By studying the soils, local George Husmann developed hybrid grapes that could handle the hot summers and freezing winters of Missouri. This inventiveness came to the rescue of the France wine-makers during an aphid infestation during the 1860s. Shipping millions of phylloxera-resistant rootstocks to France, they helped their overseas wine-making compatriots. Husmann would later move to California and become one of the founders of the Napa Valley wine industry.

Passing on Tradition

By the end of the 1800s, Hermann had grown to become one of the largest wine-producing regions in the world. As their popularity grew, it became apparent that they could not remain isolated from the rest of the country. Passing along the traditions had included remaining true to the German language, but this would prove to create difficulties when dealing with customers outside of the town. Over time, it became necessary to teach dual languages, as the population began to embrace English. Still, the people of Hermann have held on to many of their traditions.

Holding on to the Past

Like many places in America, Hermann was devastated by Prohibition. Not only were hundreds of barrels destroyed, but the grapevines were uprooted to prevent future crops. When you pile on the anti-German sentiment, that came with World War I, it is a wonder that the city survived. Hermann would be pushed into the Great Depression years before the rest of the country. It would be 1965 before wine-making would return to this German town. Breaking back into the market was like taming the wilderness all over again.

Explore Hermann’s Heritage

Hermann, Missouri has found a way to recapture its magic. These days it intertwines its history with the future. The town is a mixture of boutique shops, antique stores, restaurants, and wineries. While many visitors descend on this hillside town every year, the distinct history of the town escapes those who neglect to investigate in depth. We would highly recommend a stop at the Hermann History Museum to learn more about the unique past and the people who brought it to life. It’s an interesting dive into German culture.

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Slushy Sips

Where we would usually have a road trip, this time we substituted the Amtrak. After a four hour trip, we were definitely in the mood for a good meal. Some earlier reconnaissance had uncovered an interesting option named Doxie Slush. The first thing that had caught my attention was their wide range of frozen cocktails. These are quite popular in New Orleans, and we have even found a place in Kansas City that offers them. Finding a place that offers adult beverages isn’t difficult in Hermann, but this place had some other tasty treasures, as well.

Summer Vibes

While the town was certainly popular, the crowds were thinner due to the pandemic. We located an open table and proceeded to scan the menu. Our server stopped by to welcome us and walk us through the various options. Doxie Slush offers a flight of 3 of their slushies, so we just had to narrow down our selections. That is harder than it would appear because they have so many amazing flavors. Finally, we asked our server to surprise us. You can imagine our delight when he delivered a trio of summertime treats. From left to right we had; Melon Mojito, Blue Hawaiian, and Strawberry Hibiscus Frosé. Each brought a sweet taste that reminds us of the summer days that had recently ended.

Flavors of Fall

While the sips of the summer drinks brought delicious memories, the second flight welcomed the rich tastes of Fall. Pumpkin Spice Old-Fashioned, Caribbean Coffee, and Apple Dolce Martini all supplied a bounty of flavor that reminded us that the upcoming holiday season was just around the corner. Each of our cocktails had a nice little kick, so we were glad that our travels were in the hands of the railroad. In the meantime, we were getting ourselves in the Oktoberfest spirit in anticipation of exploring the town after lunch.

Tasty Treasures

Now before you get the idea that Doxie Slush is just another bar, we should tell you that we picked this location because of their tantalizing food menu. We discovered that owner Nicholas Renfrow is a New York City trained chef, who has brought his tropical experiences to Hermann. This is not the place to grab a plain hamburger or a chicken salad sandwich. Instead, they offer up unique flavors like their Manchego Beignets. These deep-fried crispy bites of heaven incorporate the tangy taste of Spanish cheese, that comes from sheep’s milk. What a perfect appetizer and they tasted amazing with our craft cocktails.

Not Your Average Burger

Now I said they don’t serve up plain hamburgers, but you will find an Island Burger on the menu. Nick’s twist on this American dish begins with a base of a certified Angus beef patty. Then he lets loose a torrent of flavors that come crashing through in every bite. The grilled pineapple and Vidalia onion strings complimented the Pepperjack cheese and smoked paprika mayo. Each bite was a combination of tastes that had me coming back over and over until there was no more. This burger is so amazing that I nearly forgot about the Sea Salt Fries that accompany it.

Flavors of the Sea

Crystal had chosen to begin her meal with the Fish n’ Chips. (We split both entrees, so we could sample more flavors.) Even such standard bar fare as this is kicked up to another level. We were expecting Cod filets, but Nick knows that crispy wild-caught mahi-mahi makes this dish extra special. The crispy battered bites melted in our mouths and we once again neglected the bed of sea salt fries. Doxie Slush serves up some lemon slices on the side for flavor, but the real star condiment is their dill-caper tartar sauce. They should bottle that stuff so that we can try to mimic this dish at home.

More Tasty Treasures

You can imagine how stuffed we were by the time we finished our meal at Doxie Slush. What we found to be the hardest task was narrowing down our food choices from their tempting menu. We know that another visit (or three) will be required to really explore the various flavors. Leaving without testing the Pork Belly Fried Rice or Scampi Mac n’ Cheese was difficult. Then there is the Southern-Fried Lobster Bucket that is packed full of tempting tastes. We told you this place is unlike any other in town. It looks like they are going to see a lot of new visitors in the near future. Bon Apetit!

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