We want to thank Visit Mobile and the local businesses for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

1) Begin the day with Beignets

Our coffee had kept us going during the drive, but our tummies were telling us they wanted something more substantial. There are plenty of ways to fill a void, but few are as satisfyingly sweet as a visit to Mo’Bay Beignets. Their fluffy pillows of dough are enrobed with a dusting of powdered sugar. Wait, did I say dusting? This is more than a gentle sprinkle. In fact, they pile on the sweet stuff and even offer up some delectable dipping sauces to boot. With our sugar rush in full effect, we were ready to set out exploring.

2) Changing of the Guard

You can’t truly say you have explored a destination unless you have learned its history. We wanted to ensure we got a good dose of Azalea City’s past, so we set off to find the roots of the downtown. Fort Conde is where Mobile originated way back in 1711. What started as a French colonial site would see plenty of action. This region was viewed as prime land for gaining a foothold in the New World. Over the years, ownership would sway between France, Spain, and Britain. Once America had won its freedom in the Revolutionary War, it didn’t take long for this site to fall under American control.

3) Making History

Now that we were in a history-seeking mood, we headed a couple of blocks over to the History Museum of Mobile. This impressive institution fills in the gaps in the balance of the city’s history. We found exhibits on everything from the early native tribes to the modern days. Mobile is a city that does not shy away from its past. As with almost any metropolitan area, there have been good and bad events in the past. From the long-ago days of slavery and the Civil War, the city has moved forward into brighter times. Showing how the citizens were able to alter their future makes this one of the 7 sensational stops in downtown Mobile.

4) Eclectic Eats

Our sugar rush from breakfast was wearing off, so it was time for something to fill the void. We headed up Dauphin Street, one of the key boulevards in downtown Mobile. This main corridor is filled with shops and eateries, enveloped in southern charm. There are plenty of dining options, but when we spotted Squid Ink, we knew it was a place to check out. Stepping through the bright blue façade, we found full-blown quirkiness inside. The funky décor told us that we were about to enjoy some unique eats. They certainly didn’t disappoint and it was obvious by the steady crowd that this place is a hopping joint.

5) Party Central

Would it surprise you to find out that the American version of Mardi Gras didn’t start in New Orleans? Well, it certainly shocked us to discover that this annual celebration originated right here in Mobile, Alabama. In fact, they still have their yearly party with parades and revelry. As we made our way through downtown, we were reminded of Mardi Gras on almost every block. A visit to the Mobile Carnival Museum would teach us all about the rich history this city has with the well-known celebration. Way back in 1703, the early French settlers were observing Mardi Gras on the banks of the Mobile River. These days the crowds fill the streets in anticipation of catching a Moon Pie being tossed from floats. We learned that prior to 1970, it was boxes of Cracker Jacks that were being thrown.

6) See the Shops

No visit to a new destination is complete until we have sampled some local shops. We were looking for some small tribute we could take home as a reminder of our visit. There are plenty of options in downtown Mobile. Local vendors and creators stuff the shops with merchandise of all types. We found everything from haunted bookstores to historic nut roasters. It seemed like just about anything you could imagine was found in one of the stores. In the end, we gathered some nice souvenirs, gifts for friends, and even fresh roasted nuts to enjoy on the road.

7) A New Fan Favorite

After spending half a week in the Louisiana River Parishes, we were ready to sample tastes beyond Cajun/Creole meals. We decided to try some south-of-the-border flavors to round out our 7 sensational stops in downtown Mobile. One of the newer restaurants to grace Dauphin Street is Roosters. The owners have decided to bring the tastes of Latin American cuisine into the heart of the city. After a busy day of exploring, we were ready to chow down on street tacos and enjoy one of their craft margaritas. The fresh flavors of their dishes were as amazing as they were appealing.

7 Sensational Stops in Downtown Mobile

One of our main goals for the day was to prove to ourselves that Mobile has a walkable downtown. All of our stops are easily accessible and from start to finish, we walked just over two miles. Of course, we did add a few more steps when we found ourselves backtracking at times. Some sights were just too beautiful to be taken in with one viewing. In the end, we were pleased that we could squeeze these 7 sensational stops in downtown Mobile all into one visit. With our first foray into Alabama a rousing success, we knew we would have to plan more excursions into the Cotton State. Now, which of these stops intrigued you the most?

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I Found My Thrill

As we stood on the threshold of the entrance, we noticed a rather large chalkboard stating the special drink of the day. A standard margarita would usually be our beverage of choice, when consuming tacos. Today seemed like a good time to mix it up a bit and sample their Blueberry Margarita. Within a few minutes we were sipping on this fruity cocktail, while perusing the robust menu. This place may not be very old, but they have certainly made quite a splash on the foodie scene in Mobile.

Getting Our Munch On

We decided to do a little nibbling while we kept reviewing our taco options. An order of The Trifecta looked to be a good way to savor a selection of dips. A large serving of tortilla chips were the perfect vehicle to sample the trio of spreads. The Queso Blanco, Guacamole Fresca, and Roasted Tomato Salsa kept us occupied while our server saw to a group of customers who were just arriving. It seems like some other people had the same Happy Hour idea that we did.

Something to Taco Bout

While we could have probably been good with the trio of dips, we weren’t about to pass up some tacos. With ten varieties to choose from, it made our selection difficult. The idea of each getting one soon became a mission to split three different types. Our choices; (right to left) were Jerk Chicken, Carnitas Pork, and Grilled Mahi Mahi. The Jerk Chicken brings a taste of the islands with its Jalapeno cabbage slaw. Carnitas Pork relies on the sumptuous meat to provide the bulk of the flavor. The Grilled Mahi Mahi tasted like it was fresh from the sea. It was hard stopping at the halfway mark as we dined. These truly provided us something to taco bout.

Can You Have Roots and Wings?

While the movie “Sweet Home Alabama” would imply you can’t have both, we think you can. Our roots are firmly planted in our hometown of Kansas City, but we find the urge to spread our wings frequently. Visiting new destinations help us expand our education of North America. Mobile, Alabama is a city that begs to be explored. From the classic architecture to the historical significance, this Gulf Coast city has many things going for it. We’d just like to point out that it also has a ton of culinary treats awaiting visitors. Now that will give any visitor something to taco bout.

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We want to thank Visit Mobile and the History Museum of Mobile for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Access to Anywhere

Mobile has the distinction of being Alabama’s only saltwater port. Even though it is technically situated on the Mobile River, it sits at the mouth of Mobile Bay. This helped play a significant role in the economic development of the city. The original settlement was made by French colonists looking to secure the Gulf Coast. Although a temporary start was made further inland, by 1711 the move was made to its present day site. Before long, Fort Conde was constructed to serve as a defendable fortification to protect France’s investment in the New World.

Early Inhabitants

We wondered how Mobile got its name, but that was easily solved during our visit to the museum. A native tribe lived nearby in their fortress town named Mabila. They were not always welcoming to new explorers. In 1540, they helped conceal a large group of warriors who attacked the Spanish explorer, Hernando de Soto. Unfortunately for the native warriors, they were vastly underequipped, as they faced the gun-toting Spaniards. Most of the natives perished during the ensuing battle and their village was burned down.

Objectionable Actions

In 1819, when Alabama gained statehood, Mobile had a population of around 800 residents. The introduction of steamboats was about to change Mobile’s future. Across the Atlantic Ocean, the Industrial Revolution was proceeding at full speed in Britain. The need for raw materials, especially cotton, was creating a favorable situation for southern plantations. The lands around the Mobile River are prime for growing cotton and by 1822 the population had risen to 2800. To aid in increasing productivity, the plantation economy went all-in with the use of slave labor.

Dark Period of History

By the 1830s, Mobile’s economy hinged on two main pieces of commerce; cotton growing and slave trading. Mobile soon rose to the slave trading center of Alabama, until that dubious title was wrestled away, by Montgomery, in the 1850s. With so much of their economy focused on a single crop, southern Alabama lived and died with cotton. An 1860 census showed that slaves accounted for 45% of Alabama’s total population. In anticipation of the Civil War, Alabama was one of the first seven states to succeed from the Union. The war would see many southern cities destroyed by battles. Mobile escaped the brunt of this action by surrendering to the Union Army on April 12, 1865. On December 18, 1865 slavery was officially abolished by the Thirteen Amendment.

Blast in the Past

Barely a month after the city’s surrender, tragedy struck the downtown. A warehouse, located on Beauregard Street, had been turned into a depot for munitions. Inside the building, Union troops had assembled 200 tons of gunpowder, bombs, and other ordinances. On the afternoon of May 25, 1865, the sky was suddenly filled with the acrid smoke of explosions. As the ground rumbled from the reverberations, shells began bursting around the city. By the end of this horrific event, approximately 300 persons had lost their lives. Several houses were destroyed and two ships on the river were sunk. The resulting fires decimated the northern end of the city.

A New Start

The end of the Civil War brought the period of Reconstruction. The drastic change to the economy was especially hard-felt in Mobile and made it difficult moving a city forward. Cotton was no longer king and the loss of enslaved labor pushed the region into economic depression. In 1878, exports from Mobile were valued around $9 million. In just four short years, this had fallen to just a third of that amount. The 20th century brought hope for regrowth, but Mobile was still struggling with racial inequalities. While change was slow, Mobile eventually moved to the forefront of racial equality movements in Alabama. By the early 1960s, lunch counters and city buses had voluntarily desegregated.

Time to Celebrate

While Mobile has seen its fair share of struggles, the residents still retain their positive spirit. The city has a long history of celebrations and is home to the start of Mardi Gras in America. Way back in 1703, the first celebration took place just a few miles upriver from the site of present day Mobile. At that time, the town served as the capital of the French Louisiana territory. Eventually the capital was moved to New Orleans, and the celebrations began to occur there, as well. Learning about this interesting tidbit of historical knowledge helped explain why we were seeing so many wrought-iron railings and Moon Pie items all over downtown. We will need to plan a return visit to catch a Mobile Mardi Gras.

Moving a City Forward

Mobile has a history of responding to challenge. These days, Mobile is home to a variety of museums, art galleries, and green spaces. Tourism has blossomed along this stretch of the coastline. To aid in moving residents and tourists through the area, tunnels have been constructed under Mobile Bay. An exhibit on construction of the Bankhead Tunnel offers a fascinating look at this engineering marvel. Built in sections, at the local shipyards, the pieces were assembled underwater. Once it was completed, they pumped the water out and finished the interior. The eastern end of the tunnel has a flood door that can be closed during hurricanes.

Loving Alabama

Our inaugural visit to Alabama was turning into an educational experience. The History Museum of Mobile had cleared up some confusion we had about this region. With a better understanding of the various obstacles that the city had traversed, we were ready to head out for more exploring. With fresh eyes, we were sure to connect the dots on the names and places that are associated with the city’s founders. Mobile was looking to be a great way to start our research in a new state.

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Funky Vibe

Stepping through the door, we found that the unique styling continued on the inside. Guests are greeted by a large bar area, which is wholly acceptable in a city like Mobile, Alabama. After all, the residents of the city embrace their happy hours. In fact, in 1907 the state legislature was debating the idea of passing a Prohibition Bill. Mobile’s Mayor led a delegation to the capitol to attempt to prevent this from happening. Other citizens got involved with the battle. N.J. McDermott, President of the Bank of Mobile, wired the statehouse legislators and told them that if the Prohibition Bill was passed, that Mobile would secede from the State of Alabama.

Eclectic Eats & Drinks

Squid Ink continues the tradition of encouraging patrons to imbibe by offering some interesting flavor combinations. We couldn’t pass up the chance to quench our thirst with one of their colorful cocktails. Strawberry Fields is a delightful blend of gin, mint, lime. rose, strawberry, and tonic water. It offers an invigorating punch with a cooling effect on a hot summer day. The hostess had seated us on the main floor, which offered us a great view of the bar. We could also watch diners arrive and move upstairs to the overflow seating. Outside, they had set up some tables on the sidewalk, which served people looking for further social distancing.

Vietnamese Baguette

With our drink cooling us down, it was time to focus on the main draw, the eclectic eats found on the Squid Ink menu. We were in the mood for some handhelds, for which we found plentiful choices. My selection landed on the Chicken Bahn Mi Bao. This variation of a Vietnamese sandwich is made with grilled chicken thighs. Then they toss in the mix some pickled carrots and daikon, as well as fresh cucumber, shaved jalapeno, cilantro, and some spicy mayo for tons of flavor depth. It’s all contained in a bao bun which is a traditional Vietnamese steamed bread. This sammie went perfectly with the thin fries that accompanied it.

Going Green

Crystal was predictable as always. I had seen the Avocado BLT on the menu and was predicting that she would select it. She has a love affair with avocado, so it was an easy choice. Squid Ink’s version provides a healthy amount of the green stuff. They also include bacon jam, tomato, cilantro, lettuce, gyoza, and aioli for another flavor-filled treat. Toasted multi-grain bread does an admirable job at holding this all together, but I did spot some leakage. Of course, that came from the fact that the sammie is packed full.

Dining in Lower Alabama

Exploring Lower Alabama was certainly a first for us, but we feel like it won’t be our last. With a whole state for us to investigate, we are betting the Gulf Shores will repeat in our future. Mobile makes a great home base for exploring the surrounding region. It has tons of stops, plenty of eclectic eats, and don’t forget that it is home to the start of America’s Mardi Gras. Toss in plenty of beignets and beads and it may be just about the perfect place to get a true taste of southern living.

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We want to thank Visit Mobile for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Mo’Bay Wealth

When Mobile was moved to its current location in 1711, Dauphin Street was one of the principal thoroughfares. It quickly grew to become the commercial corridor of the city. The French influence is evident in many aspects of Mobile life. The Catholic church has records dating back to 1703 when the first permanent congregation was established by the bishop of Quebec. Our day would include learning how control of Mobile was affected by multiple nations. Before we headed off to Fort Conde, we wanted to explore the culinary history of the city.

Meeting in Mobile

We arrived at Mo’Bays and found a parking spot right out front. That was a sure sign that it was going to be a great day. Being a weekday morning, the majority of customers were grabbing their orders to go. Stepping through the door, we found ourselves in the brick-exposed space used for diners. Here we met up with Andrew Felts, the Marketing Coordinator from Visit Mobile. He welcomed us to Alabama and briefed us on the contacts that we would meet during the day. Now it was time to sample the light, airy pillows that we have yearned for.

Order Up!

Our experiences at restaurants have been a mixed bag of menus. Some places have page after page of selections that will leave diners trying to whittle down the choices. Then we have the opportunity to visit places like Mo’Bay Beignets that makes ordering easy. By keeping it simple, they are able to focus on what matters. The sweet smell of deep-fried dough filled the restaurant with its intoxicating aroma. We placed our order and waited anxiously for our deep-fried delights.

Sugar Pillows for the Win

In short order, we were heading to a table to consume our fried fritters. Miniature snowdrifts of powdered sugar-coated our sugar pillows. We added in a couple of their flavored syrups that compliment the taste of the beignets. The tender biscuits were an indulgent treat and the syrups boosted them to a level we had never tasted. To wash down our breakfast, we chose a couple of their hot drink options. One cup of Café Au Lait combines coffee with hot milk to create a milder version of a latte. The other was a bolder version that combines coffee with chicory in a time-tested style that is common in the deep south.

Staying Mobile

We made quick work of our sweet treats and wiped our sugary mustaches off of our faces. Even with mounds of powdered sugar to contend with, we were able to avoid the tale-tell white smudges on our clothes. As the sugar coursed through our bodies, we made our way out into the Mobile morning. The day held the promise of some major exploring and we were anxious to get started. We knew that the Mo’Bay sugar pillows would keep us rolling until lunch. What a sweet way to start our morning.

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We want to thank Visit Mobile and the History Museum of Mobile for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

The Key Players

The founding of Mobile is largely attributed to Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville. He arrived in the New World, along with his brother Iberville, around 1699. During the exploration of the Gulf Coast, they journeyed up the Mobile River as far as his ship would travel. Iberville would eventually return to France, but he left directions for Bienville to establish a new settlement. A couple of other notable characters are associated with these early days of Mobile. Henri de Tonti, a French explorer, had spent many years exploring the New World. His experience as a treaty negotiator was key to working with the local natives. Laurens de Graaf, a Dutch pirate who had much success battling with the Spanish Navy, is claimed to have been among the colonists at the new city of Mobile.

Hints of the Past

The original French settlement had been about 25 more miles inland, at 27-mile Bluff. This first French colonial site was constructed in 1702, but by 1711 the decision was made to move closer to the gulf after flooding on the Mobile River. A small wooden fort was erected by residents, with assistance from neighboring native tribes, in what is present-day Mobile. Within ten years, the fort had fallen into disrepair, so plans were made to replace it on a grander scale. The French were preparing to showcase their dominance by carving a space in the New World.

Carving a Space in the New World

In 1723, the construction of a new fort was started. Covering an area of over 10 acres, this would be a substantial structure. The new fort was an impressive accomplishment with walls 16 to 20 feet tall. A moat surrounded the fort and would slow down any aggressors so that the cannons could do their job. This imposing structure seemed all but impenetrable by the time of its completion.  For over 3 decades, Fort Conde would help France hold its grip on this territory in the New World.

Changing Hands

In 1756, a global conflict would erupt that redrew the lines of dominance. The Seven Years’ War would involve many parties but was largely concentrated between France, Spain, and Great Britain. In the New World, the French and Indian War was primarily the American portion of this global conflict. The British were more aligned with the native tribes, which allowed them an advantage over France. Great Britain gained territory from the Plains of Abraham, in Quebec, to Fort Conde in Mobile. By 1763, the French had succumbed to British pressure and given up their claim to Mobile.

Short Term Residents

The British set to repairing the fortifications that had been damaged during the war. They also renamed the structure as Fort Charlotte. They had little time to relish in the revived glory before they were assailed by Spain. In March 1780, Spanish troops laid siege to the fort. Approximately 300 men attempted to stave off the 1000 strong forces that bombarded the recently repaired walls. The British forces were able to hold off for two weeks but eventually surrendered to the Spanish troops.

Laying Siege

The assault on Fort Charlotte once again impacted this space in the New World. Spanish General Galvez had already struck the British during campaigns across the lower Mississippi River Valley. Galvez knew that the British hold had become tenuous. Mobile and Pensacola were the last two strongholds. The British defeat at Fort Charlotte was not taken lightly and they attempted a counterattack in 1781. This was successfully rebuffed by Spanish defenders. Once again, the name was changed by its owners and it became Fort Carlotta.

Changing the Landscape for Good

With the American Revolution wrapped up, the Americans set their sights on securing the new continent. Relationships between Spain and the United States had soured. The richness of the lower Southeast river system was attractive to America. In an almost exact repeat of history, 1000 American troops set upon Fort Carlotta. The vastly outnumbered Spanish forces surrendered without firing a shot. Once they assumed control, the United States forces returned to using the name Fort Charlotte.

Moving Mobile Forward

With possession now in the hands of the United States, it wouldn’t take long for the city to advance. By 1818, city planners were requesting the destruction of the fort to make room for the city’s expansion. In 1823 nothing remained of the original structure. While it was taken down, it is still part of the foundation of the city. In fact, much of the remains became filler to turn the marsh into the foundation for nearby Water Street. Today you can visit the reproduction of Fort Conde and see the blend of colonial and modern in this unique space in the New World.

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We want to thank Visit Mobile and the Mobile Carnival Museum for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

Let’s Get This Party Started

Our visit to the Mobile Carnival Museum helped us set a few things straight. We learned that Mardi Gras is just a series of events that occurs during the celebration of Carnival. In fact, Mardi Gras is French for ‘Fat Tuesday”, which is the culmination of the celebration of carnival. Way back in 1703, the first celebration occurred in a tiny settlement named Fort Louis de la Mobile. Certainly far removed from the boisterous parties we see these days, it would grow with each passing year. Within a few years, the Boeuf Gras Society would be formed. The name is taken from the French for fat ox, and refers to the tradition of eating richly before abstaining for Lent.

Traveling in Style

The same French-Canadian explorer who founded Mobile, Jean Baptiste Le Moyne Sieur de Bienville,  would establish New Orleans in 1718. Within a few years, Mardi Gras would come to this Louisiana city. It would take until the 1800s for the celebration to begin resembling anything we could recognize today. By then, parades had been added that incorporated flamboyant floats. Social clubs involved in creating the Mardi Gras parades were formed and named Krewes. Masked float riders began tossing out favors to the gathering crowds around 1870, as this party in the New World continued to expand.

Mystic Societies

While many in the main stream only think about the parades, there is much more that goes into Carnival season. The Krewes are usually associated with a mystic society group that is dedicated to preserving their traditions. Krewe members pay dues or fees that help fund their various activities. The more elaborate their activities, the higher the fees may be. Being members of a Krewe allows for the possibility of someday reigning as king or queen  for a year. These highly sought after positions come with much responsibility. Working diligently to help prepare for their annual ball is paramount. It will be at this celebration that the king and queen are revealed to the rest of the krewe.

Elaborate Regalia

These events are mostly private and often beyond formal. They serve as social ladder climbing opportunities, and often are the formal introduction to society life for children. The invitation-only events are just as flamboyant as the parades. While many of the krewes are names unfamiliar, the King of Carnival has long been recognized as Felix. This character was created by a group of businessmen to preside over the first daytime parade. In a nod to a visiting Russian dignitary, the colors of gold, green, and purple became the official scheme for Carnival. While not always, often one or more of these colors are incorporated into the magnificent costumes of the krewe royalty.

Unbelievable Costumes

As we explored the Mobile Carnival Museum, we found room after room filled with amazing displays of regalia. The museum opened in 2005 in one of the historic homes of Mobile. With more than a dozen galleries to view, we found plenty of unbelievable artifacts. While many of the rooms feature the intricate designs wore at the balls, there are also a large number of costumes that were used by parade participants. Each one is so intricate in design and are immediately identifiable for their theme. Can you imagine catching throws being dispensed by a group of Santa Clauses?

Why So Serious?

Just as we began to see the seriousness behind many of the krewes, we happened upon an exhibit on the Comic Cowboys. It all goes back to 1884 and a local Mobile store owner named Dave Levi. Where many groups went for the razzle-dazzle, he chose to make the Comic Cowboys all about simplicity. Most often, their floats are merely plain wagons with simple decorations. Sarcastic design is their namesake and they play off of current events. The group foregoes the fancy costumes and prefer a simpler approach. It appears that many on the crowds also appreciate their tongue-in-cheek approach.

Don’t Forget the Ladies

As much as a king needs a queen, it seems that Carnival remained a guy’s thing for many years. The krewes were all-male, allowing women to only participate as guests. As the debutante scene began to blend with Carnival season, so the participation of women grew. Wanting their own space, all-women krewes got their jump start in 1922, when the Krewe of Iris formed. While it quickly became known for its magnificent balls, it would be 1959 before they participated in a parade. Another all-women’s group, the Krewe of Venus, organized their first parade in 1941. It was met with resistance from the men who threw rotten vegetables at the riders. Fortunately, opinions changed and these days there are female super krewes with membership in the thousands.

Party in the New World

While our visit was well past the end of the Carnival season, we were still able to immerse ourselves in the celebration. The Mobile Carnival Museum had opened our eyes and minds to the history of this annual celebration. Being from the Midwest, we were unfamiliar with many of the nuances and traditions. Here we were able to gather an in-depth education on how and why this party in the New World is so important to the residents and visitors to Mobile, Alabama. Now we just need to plan a visit during their Mardi Gras and get us some of those Moon Pies that they love to toss to the crowd.

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