A Thorough History Lesson

Our first stop was the Arrow Rock Visitor Center, so we could get some background information on this village. Inside we discovered the rich history that makes up the Boone’s Lick region of Missouri. The native tribes were aware of the riches that the land offered centuries before European explorers arrived. As we made our way through the visitor center, our travel took us through time. After the period of ownership by Spain and France, the Louisiana Purchase opened it up for pioneering Americans. Our history lessons continued, as we moved through the Civil War and right up to present day.

Marking the Way

The Village of Arrow Rock has a number of historic sites for visitors to explore. Stopping in the shops on Main Street allowed us a chance to grab one of their town maps. While the village is not overly large, it has quite a few points of interest. Finding them is as easy as following the map and referencing the appropriate number to the information in the handout. It makes learning some history lessons as easy as 1, 2, 3.

Temporarily Silenced

Sitting on a hillside not far from Main Street we came upon the Lyceum Theater. This 1872 structure began life as a Baptist church. In 1960 it was converted into a professional repertory theater. It has hosted a variety of Broadway-style shows. Its popularity required the addition of a large auditorium that was completed in 1993. As we passed by, the building sat in majestic silence. The pandemic has created the need to curtail all shows for the present time. We hope this will change before long, and the performances can return.

Call for a Cure

Our visit to Arrow Rock was unexpectedly appropriate. We had made the trip because we were searching for safer destinations to explore during the pandemic. One of the stops along the town map led us to the Sappington Museum. Here we discovered that one of the town’s early residents was instrumental in helping slow the spread of malaria. As we read the information boards inside the family home, it reminded us that there are many out there working hard to solve today’s medical issue.

“The” Missouri Artist

The title above may bring to mind a variety of names. Every famous Missouri artist had their moment in the sun. George Caleb Bingham earned this distinction during the mid to late 1800s. Growing up in a challenging situation, he learned to paint from an art teacher at his mother’s school. His gift for portrait painting led him to St. Louis, where he started his first studio. Later success would carry him to a lucrative career on the East Coast.

Midwest Life

By the age of 34, he was ready to return to the Midwest. In 1848, he would be one of just a few artists who has ever been elected to office. He served as a Missouri delegate during the period of the Civil War, where he supported the Union. One of our surprise history lessons was learning that Bingham would become the first President of the Kansas City Board of Police Commissioners. These days visitors can arrange a tour of his Arrow Rock home.

The Silent Residents

In 1995, an archaeologist from the McClung Museum, in Knoxville, came to Arrow Rock to study the life and culture of the town’s African-American residents. His teams excavated a variety of sites that showcased the changing impact that these people had made in the village. Some of the information they uncovered is included in the African-American Experience Museum. Housed in the Arrow Rock Free Will Baptist Church, the museum helps explain some of the issues that black residents faced from the earliest days through the 20th century. This space is not to be missed when you make your visit.

Lunch Break

All of these history lessons had created quite an appetite. It was just a couple of short blocks to Catalpa Restaurant. From the moment we arrived, we knew it was going to be a good meal. Since our visit occurred during the Covid time-frame, dining was restricted to tables set up on the lawn. Of course, there was plenty of shade, which made for a fun setting. Our sandwiches were spot on delicious and tossing in a specialty shake supplied our sweet treat.

Going Old School

With all of these history lessons swirling in our brains, it was time for a little less serious exploring. Arrow Rock has a few unique shops that really stand out. While most are on Main Street, we located Thunder Lodge Trading Company just down the street from our lunch stop. They tout themselves as a home goods store, but it is so much more. While it does offer some interesting artistic accents for the home, it also has some that are out of the ordinary. A selection of black powder horns is one of these, as is the assorted fur pelts that hang from the wall. If you are looking for that one-of-a-kind gift for the person who has everything, you are sure to find it here.

Shopping Time

As we were leaving Thunder Lodge we ran into a couple who was also visiting from Kansas City. It’s surprising just how often this happens to us. The really unusual part was that the gentleman grew up two doors behind me in KCK. What an interesting turn of events. After we spent some time catching up, we bid our goodbyes and headed back to Main Street. The historic porch covered boardwalk looks like something straight out of a movie. Many of the shopkeepers were enjoying the pleasant weather and had set up shop on the boardwalk. As we shopped, we chatted with them about the history lessons we had found in Arrow Rock.

New Trading Post

At the far end of the row of shops, we came to the Arrow Rock Trading Post. Being in such an antique-style setting, we weren’t exactly sure what we would find inside. To our surprise, this space was performing double duty as a boutique and home accents shop. While Crystal browsed through the whole store, I focused my attention on some of the interesting foodstuffs. We both enjoyed the variety of products that this place had in stock. It was hard to believe how much they offered since all of the spaces looked much smaller from the outside.

History Lessons Achieved

With a day full of history lessons complete, it was time to start heading back to Kansas City. While the pandemic may be making travel more complicated, it has forced us to take a renewed look at destinations we missed in the past. Many of these smaller towns and villages are the perfect destination for a casual day trip or overnighter. We have found that they offer a safer atmosphere and the business owners are so thankful to see visitors. It looks like 2020 will be filled with these types of adventures, but we are finding that they can make for some of the most memorable excursions.

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African-American Experience Museum

The Village of Arrow Rock, Missouri is fairly easy to explore on foot. With only a few square blocks, we set out to see all of the historic sites. On the northern edge of town, we came upon Arrow Rock Free Will Baptist Church, which has since been renamed Brown’s Lodge. Inside this 1869 structure, we discovered the African-American Experience Museum. It was here that we would learn about the struggles of the slaves as they transitioned to freedom after the Civil War.

What Now?

Let us not forget that much of Arrow Rock’s construction can be traced to slave labor. From the old-fashioned stone gutters along Main Street to the historic J. Huston Tavern, most of this was due to the work of African Americans. From Arrow Rock’s inception in 1829, the institution of slavery was evident all through the region. Fertile farmland was ripe for growing hemp and tobacco, both of which require strong hands and backs. By the time of the Civil War, plantations stretched all across the region’s landscape. During the Civil War, tensions rose and heinous actions occurred throughout the region.

After the War

The emancipation, on January 22, 1865, did not result in equality for all. Many of those that had been slaves on the plantations chose to continue working them in exchange for room and board. Others decided to move into nearby towns to take whatever jobs they could find. Unfortunately, these were few for those who were typically uneducated. Let us not forget that these disadvantages did not stop African Americans from finding unique ways to advance.

Job Opportunities

While some African Americans became business owners, most were resigned to manual labor tasks. Plenty of jobs were available in the nearby quarry and sawmill. Over time many would move from renters to homeowners. Even in this area, the disparity was evident. While there are many historic homes in Arrow Rock, few of the black citizens remain. This is mostly due to the lower quality of materials used in the construction of homes for African Americans. It was not uncommon for a black family’s home to have mismatched windows and doors, which came from using salvaged and recycled materials.

Life Revolves Around Church

During the turn of the century, the black community remained separate and apart from Arrow Rock’s white citizens. Let us not forget that even as they built this town, they also constructed their own churches, schools, and meeting halls. The African-American Experience Museum that we were visiting happens to be inside one of these. While it began as the Arrow Rock Free Will Baptist Church, it would eventually be renamed for its first minister, John Brown.

Brown Lodge Number 22

The building has two distinct floors that each had a specific purpose. While the first floor was used as a restaurant, the second floor served as the meeting hall for Free Masons. Those in need would find solace and support, as these types of establishments served as social safety nets. While the lodge would disband in the early 1930s, the restaurant would continue to operate into the 1950s.

Let Us Not Forget

The segregation, in Arrow Rock, continued even after death. About five miles south of the village is the Sappington Cemetery. Here you can find graves of some of the most prominent members of the white community. A separate cemetery was established for the African American citizens. Not far away is the Sappington Negro Cemetery, which sits on land donated by Dr. John Sappington. A stark contrast can be seen between the two sites. The Sappington Negro Cemetery is filled with less ornate stone and many unmarked graves. Let us not forget that until the 1930s, African Americans were the majority of the population in Arrow Rock, Missouri.

Changing Demographics

What we discovered at the African American Experience Museum is that the town of Arrow Rock owes much to its black citizens. After the Civil War, the town was in a continual decline. Let us not forget that it was the freed slaves, who moved to the area after the war, that helped keep the community alive.  While many of the tales were only recorded orally, it does not diminish the important role that they played in the village. Opportunities to learn from sites like this are one of the things we relish about traveling. For us, it is a form of continued education.

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Cozy Comfort

While this village has a couple of dining options, we discovered that J. Huston tavern was closed due to a recent kitchen fire. That made our dining destination decision simple. After exploring some of the local historical sites, we were ready to chow down. It was easy to locate Catalpa Restaurant, since it was only offering outside dining options. As we approached, we saw a grouping of tables scattered around the front lawn. Fortunately, some mature trees were providing some much needed shade.

Shady Selections

We made our way to the side of the restaurant, where the line to order was queuing up. As we awaited our turn, we scanned the menu for possibilities. Their lunch options are fairly straightforward and we could tell it would include sandwiches, shakes, and shade. Keeping our social distance, we finally made our way up to the server. Our first thought was there would be a long wait. We quickly realized the six-foot gaps between groups made the line appear longer than reality.

Take It Outside

We placed our order and were given a number. Back around to the front to find a comfortable spot to await our meal. All around us we noted parties of people in some state of dining. It appeared to be a mix of locals and visitors, but all were welcoming. The first thing to arrive was our Grasshopper Shake. The neon green color contrasted with the dark brown of the chocolate. A dollop of whip cream adorned the top, and was decorated with some green sugar sprinkles. We sipped on this creamy treat as we awaited our main courses. Before long, a server delivered our tray full of goodies and we prepared to dive in.

Buttonwood Bird

One of the things we like about visiting this type of eatery is that many will strive to partner with local ingredient suppliers. Catalpa is one of those who has developed relationships that keeps a steady stream of fresh ingredients flowing into their kitchen. Crystal selected the Buttonwood Farm Chicken Sandwich that is served with meat from nearby California, Missouri. Grilled to tender perfection, she had hers slathered with Basil Pesto Mayo and nestled inside a garlic bun. It was accompanied by a helping of delicious Basil Bacon Potato Salad. I have to say that in hind sight I was pretty jealous of her choices.

Beefy Bite

While Crystal’s meal was filled with some amazing flavors, my choices were not devoid of taste. The 1/2 Pound Beef Burger is a mountain of meat designed to satisfy the hungriest appetite. I had a rather light breakfast, so this meal really helped me get back on track. It is served on the same style of garlic bun, but I had them include lettuce, ketchup, mayo, and a slice of Havarti cheese. For a side, the chips and salsa sounded satisfying and it had plenty of kick to boot.

Sandwiches, Shakes, and Shade

With our appetites satisfied, we were happier than a bird with a French fry. We paused for a moment to take a quick selfie, which helps us remember the places we visit. This lunch stop had provided a perfect mix of sandwiches, shakes, and shade. Now that we were recharged, it was time to get back to exploring Arrow Rock. There were still some historic stops, as well as a collection of shops calling our names. Perhaps our next visit to this village will find that J. Huston Tavern has reopened and we can sample its flavors, as well. One thing for certain, the Village of Arrow Rock is truly a great choice for a day trip visit.

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Heading West

John Sappington was born in Maryland and came from a medical background. His father had studied medicine in Pennsylvania and became a physician. During his childhood, the family moved to Nashville, Tennessee. That is where he and his brothers would study medicine with their father. The time period was right around the beginning of the 1800s. With the frontier expanding at a frightening pace, doctors were in high demand. A chance meeting with Senator Thomas Hart Benton would lead to Dr. Sappington’s relocation to central Missouri.

Trying Times

Sappington, and his family, moved to Arrow Rock in 1819. The area held much promise, as it had become well-known for its saltwater springs. This led to the nickname of Boone’s Lick, due to the Daniel Boone family building a successful salt lick operation. Dr. Sappington quickly grew in local stature not only as a physician but also as importing and exporting goods. In 1824 he partnered in a store that sold goods to travelers along the Santa Fe Trail. As the population of America migrated across the plains, diseases followed and infected many campsites.

Stopping the Spread

Long before Europeans visited the South American continent, the native people had already identified the healing powers of Cinchona bark. Nicknamed the “fever tree” by Spanish explorers, the bark powder would be added to water to create a powerful tonic. By the mid-1600s, this tree bark concoction was already gaining favor in treating malaria symptoms. This mosquito born disease was common in swampy or poorly drained areas. Since most pioneers chose to settle near bodies of water, malaria ravaged the frontier. Dr. Sappington discovered a way to extract the quinine from the cinchona bark and create anti-fever pills.

Taking It to Market

This newly developed medicine was found to cure a variety of illnesses, including influenza, scarlet and yellow fevers. Soon the pills were in high demand and Sappington created a new company to manage the sales across the continent. As the popularity of this cure spread, Sappington continued his research. He discovered that quinine pills could be used as a preventative measure to ward off malaria. Stopping the spread of this terrible disease became a primary goal for Sappington. His family and traveling sales agents regularly prescribed to this practice and were able to successfully travel safely to regions prone to malaria.

Controversy Swirls

While the success of his anti-fever pills was apparent, many in the medical field rejected their use. If the dosage was not well regulated it could result in blindness or even death. Dr. Sappington believed so strongly in sharing the success of this drug that he produced a medical book in 1844. “Theory and Treatment of Fevers” not only explained the use of the drug, it even gave the exact formula used in its manufacture. Much to his family’s dismay, this made it easy for other physicians to create their own brand of anti-fever pills.

Leaving a Legacy

Quinine remained the mainstay cure for stopping the spread of malaria into the 1940s. During World War II, Japanese forces invaded some of the regions where Cinchona trees were grown. The need for antimalarial drugs was key to the Allied forces fighting in tropical areas. A worldwide shortage created the need to speed up research into synthetic medicines. These days the use of quinine for malaria has been systematically replaced with synthetic substances that create fewer side effects. While the times have changed the use of this wonder drug, it is still amazing to discover its connection with rural Missouri. Oh, the things you learn when you head out exploring.

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Early Inhabitants

It’s nice visiting museums that deal with events in chronological order. Here we started with the earliest human inhabitants. While there were various tribes that passed through the region, the museum focuses on two major groups. The Osage and Missouria tribes were living their life in the Boone’s Lick region for generations. No one knows the exact timing of the first inhabitants, as history has not dwelt in this region. What is known is that the Osage were impressive people to behold. Few stood below 6 feet tall, and many reached closer to 7 feet. While other tribes lived in the region, the Osage ruled the land.

The French Arrive

Late in the 17th century, French explorers made their way down the Mississippi to the Missouri River. (Something we learned during our visit to Quebec City.) As they explored the area, they created names for the people and places they experienced. A misunderstanding is probably responsible for the state of Missouri’s name. When asking about the tribe that lived beside the river, their guides called them “Mihsoori”. This roughly translates to “people of the wooden canoes” (dugouts). History has shown that once a name was affixed on a map, it would usually stick and become part of history.

Expanding Territory

During the mid to late 1700s, more immigrants found their way into Boone’s Lick territory. In 1803, Thomas Jefferson completed the Louisiana Purchase, which opened up the lands for settlers. The next year, Lewis and Clark would begin their historical journey to map these new lands. Fast forward another year and you would find Daniel Boone’s sons had discovered a salt lick in nearby Howard County. Salt production was about to begin in earnest, and the path through this region was named the Boone’s Lick Trail. This precursor to the Santa Fe Trail led from St. Charles to the ferry crossing at Arrow Rock.

Regional Industry

The production process for retrieving the salt from the water is fairly straightforward but labor-intensive. A stone furnace must be constructed for heating the water. Large iron kettles are used for this step. As the water evaporates, the salt residue is left behind. This process required plenty of wood as fuel for the furnaces. Before long the nearby area had been cleared. It is estimated that by the end of the operation wood was being brought from nearly four miles away to feed the operation.

Getting Product to the People

Once the work of gathering the salt was complete, it still had to be moved to markets. Wagons were loaded with barrels of salt to be transported to towns nearby. With the Missouri River in close proximity, much of the salt could be transported by keelboat downriver to St. Louis. Salt was an important commodity for taming the wilderness. Besides its obvious use as a seasoning, it was used to tan hides and preserve meats.

Conflict in the Heartland

Even as this enterprise was growing, struggles were occurring around the country. By 1810, an impending conflict with Britain was looming on the horizon. The region was already feeling a growing sense of unrest from the Osage tribe who had partnered with the English troops. While actual conflict with British troops was mostly restricted to the eastern seaboard, the central region of the continent did not remain at peace. Life in the Boone’s Lick region included skirmishes with the warring Indian tribes. Salt production was halted during the War of 1812 and would not resume until peace was made in 1815.

War Comes to the Midwest

Missouri entered the union in 1821 and was decreed a slave state. Due to the terms of the “Missouri Compromise”, no other states would be allowed this designation so far north. New residents flooded into Missouri from many of the southern states. There was also a steady flow of easterners looking for space in this new frontier. The central region of Missouri, including the Boone’s Lick area, would end up with the highest concentration of slave owners. To people who frequented the region, it often was referred to as “Little Dixie”. Many historians believe that the conflicts that arose in Missouri were the seeds that created the Civil War.

Assorted Artifacts

The well-documented “Border War” grew from a war of words into an armed guerilla conflict, during the 1850s. As the Kansas territory sat at the eve of statehood, Congress ruled that each state would choose its own designation by popular vote. This action would lead to mass migration into Kansas territory as each side attempted to turn the polls in their favor. This would lead to armed actions on both sides of the slavery issue and eventually spark the country’s Civil War. As we explored the Arrow Rock Visitors Center, we discovered plenty of interesting artifacts. These helped us get a better perspective of life in the Boone’s Lick region.

Boone’s Lick Territory Today

As we all know, many small communities came and went during the taming of the west. These days there are still a number of towns and cities that have survived. Each has its own distinct flavor and history. Our plans are to seek out interesting sites around the region and explore them in detail. We hope that by sharing a taste of each one, you will be spurred to make a pilgrimage to see them for yourself. After all, we believe that this type of travel is a form of continuing education that can be accomplished at all ages. Travel safely!

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