It’s not every day you walk into a state capitol building and discover… It’s wearing a hat under a hat. That’s right—Topeka’s crowning star hides a secret above its stately halls: it has two domes, stacked one inside the other. From the outside, you’d never guess there’s another copper-topped giant nested quietly within. This unexpected architectural sleight-of-hand sets the stage for one of the most unique (and slightly dizzying) tours in the country. Whether you’re a history buff, a stair-stepper, or just someone who loves a good behind-the-scenes story, the Kansas Capitol Dome Tour offers an experience that’s part art gallery, part time machine, and part cardio challenge.
"Ad Astra" and a View from the Top
If you squint just right, you’ll spot a bronze figure perched proudly atop the outer dome—the “Ad Astra” archer, arrow aimed toward the North Star. This symbol of Kansas’ motto, “Ad Astra per Aspera” (To the stars through difficulties), feels especially fitting given the climb awaiting those who dare scale the Capitol’s heights. It’s one thing to see the statue from below, but knowing it stands atop a dome that towers 304 feet over Topeka? That adds a whole new layer of awe. While we didn’t quite reach the topmost platform (more on that later), the archer’s presence lingered over the entire tour like a watchful, weathered sentinel. Fortunately, we were able to see it in greater detail out on the capitol grounds.
Tensions Before Statehood
Before Kansas was tossing up domes and aiming arrows skyward, it was embroiled in a tug-of-war that gripped the nation. The 1850s were a turbulent time, with the Kansas-Nebraska Act stirring the pot over whether new territories would allow slavery. What followed was a rush of settlers, some wanting to tilt the balance in the Free State, others leaning pro-slavery. The nation watched with bated breath as Kansas turned into a political powder keg. This unrest didn’t just shape borders; it shaped the very identity of Kansas, forging a fighting spirit that still echoes through the Capitol’s halls.
Becoming a Free State
By 1861, after years of conflict dubbed “Bleeding Kansas,” the territory emerged bloodied but unbowed and entered the Union as a Free State. That history is baked into the Capitol’s bones. The design of the building itself, which took nearly 40 years to complete, reflects that sense of hard-won pride and perseverance. Wandering its corridors, we couldn’t help but think of those who fought for the right to steer Kansas toward freedom. It wasn’t just on battlefields, but in newspapers, town halls, and homesteads. Every corner of this place whispers reminders of that struggle.
Murals That Speak Volumes
If the walls of the Kansas State Capitol Building could talk, they’d probably point you toward the art. Towering murals and intricate mosaics transform the space into a living canvas. John Steuart Curry’s “Tragic Prelude”, with its swirling storm clouds and a wild-eyed John Brown, stops nearly every visitor in their tracks. But don’t miss “Rebel Women”, a more recent addition that celebrates the often-overlooked female figures in Kansas’ history. These works aren’t just decoration—they’re storytelling tools, turning paint and plaster into powerful reminders of resistance, resilience, and revolution.
An Elevator from Another Era
As we made our way deeper into the Capitol, we found ourselves taking a ride in a 1923 cage elevator that felt like something out of a silent movie. The rattle of its ascent, the brass fixtures, the soft clang of the gate—all of it combined to make us feel like we were riding up into history itself. The elevator dropped us off near the legislative chambers, where rows of wooden desks and stained glass ceilings make it easy to picture the clatter of debates and deals. It’s a working monument—still very much alive with purpose.
Our Dual Dome Adventure
And then came the climb. The Kansas Capitol Dome Tour invites brave souls to ascend 296 steps that thread their way between the building’s inner and outer domes. It’s like crawling through the skeleton of a cathedral. Metal catwalks, narrow staircases, and the sight of signatures from the past all added to the adventure. We made it to the third of four levels before the summer heat did us in—ducking out with sweat on our brows and just enough breath left to say, “Next time, earlier in the day.” Still, what we saw was spectacular—especially the view down into the rotunda through the oculus at the dome’s heart.
Would You Brave the Climb?
Our adventure on the Kansas Capitol Dome Tour left us with sore calves, full hearts, and a newfound respect for the architects and lawmakers who’ve passed through this stunning building. Topeka’s historic core is already full of charm, but this climb—both literal and historical—was the high point of our day. If you find yourself in the area and aren’t afraid of a few (hundred) steps, this tour might be the hidden gem you’re looking for. Now we have to ask: Would you climb all 296 steps to the top… or would the heat send you packing too?
Excellent overview!!
Thank you! We love exploring our home state.