We want to thank the Louisiana River Parishes and these local businesses for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Stately Views

Our first taste of the Louisiana River Parishes was our stay at Houmas House. It didn’t take long for us to discover that elegance is a key word when talking about the historic plantations. While many of these estates have been lost over the years, there are a few examples that visitors can tour. This particular plantation also has lodging options, which we were honored to enjoy. They gave us access to the grounds, which are filled with a variety of outdoor artwork. It seemed that no matter where we wandered, we found ourselves with amazing views.

Life in a Different Time

Our stay at Houmas House included a tour of the home. It is actually occupied by the new owner. The staff has decorated each room to reflect the personality that would have been found there in days gone by. Much like the outside grounds, each time we looked around, we were greeted with wondrous sights. While we would only have time for two plantation tours, it was clear to us that Houmas House is the crown jewel of the territory.

The River Runs Through

It was the Mississippi River, and its fertile delta, that drew the original peoples to this land. As the river snakes through the region, it deposits the silt drawn down from northern areas. All of this rich soil makes prime ground for the indigo and sugar cane crops that brought prosperity to the plantation owners. The river also served as a navigable highway for traffic to travel into the region. While the golden age of steamboat has passed, these days you will still see some plying the waters.

Life Along the Mississippi

Before departing Houmas house, we took time to visit the Great River Road Steamboat Museum. Inside we found loads of history about the area. While the main focus is on the steamboats, they also have a lot about other subjects. It’s safe to say that the museum does attempt to stay within the borders of the land that flanks the Mississippi River.

Dual Details

Our original plans had us visiting a third plantation, but the area had recently seen flooding rains. This is a condition that the people of the Louisiana River Parishes have learned to accept as part of life. When one of the stops dropped off, we replaced it with a visit to the 1811 Kid Ory Historic House. This dual focus museum tells the story of the slave uprising in 1811 that ended poorly for the enslaved people who participated. The story showcases how when pushed to a breaking point, people will lash out in whatever fashion they can manage. A second subject tells about the dawn of jazz, which came from Kid Ory. This Louisiana born musician pioneered sounds that would cement his place in history.

A Different Perspective

Each of the plantations, in the Louisiana River Parishes, has its own stories to tell. Our second one focused more on the life of the enslaved workers. Destrahan Plantation played an important role in the history of this region. The successful sugar plantation was the site of the first actions taken during the 1811 Slave Revolt. We learned that the region was separated by original ownership, and this plantation followed French codes. The enslaved, while still only considered property, were afforded a few slight benefits over other places along the river.

History Lessons

This guided tour took us into sights that are sometimes overlooked, when telling the story of plantation life in the Louisiana River Parishes. The living conditions of the enslaved is a sharp contrast to the plantation owners. It helps visitors, like us, gain a better perspective of the harsh realities of their lives. We highly recommend that a visit to the Louisiana River Parishes include tours of multiple plantations. This will allow you to build a complete picture of life during those tumultuous times.

Embracing the Louisiana River Parishes

It was a pleasure visiting the Louisiana River Parishes. While we had to dodge high water a couple of times, we easily found alternate routes. One thing that really stood out was the kindness and welcoming spirit of the people of this region. Everywhere we traveled, we were greeted like family. This certainly made it hard to leave, when our time ran out. You can bet that we will be including this territory in future excursions, as there was so much more to see and do. We hope that you find the area appealing and be sure to let us know some of your favorite stops in the comments section below.

The post Louisiana River Parishes – Exploring The River Road appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Louisiana River Parishes and all of the local businesses that hosted our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Andouille Trail

Being from the Midwest, we had a lot to learn about the native cuisines. In the River Parishes, Andouille is a word that we heard frequently. This flavorful pork product uses coarser ground and special seasonings than Midwest sausage. It has the unique flavor of the French and German cultures that permeate this region. La Bon Boucon is home to some of these fabulous smoked meats. We stopped in and chatted with the owner about what makes a great Andouille. It begins with lean meat, which is combined with savory ingredients and seasonings. This mixture is stuffed into casings and then hung to cure out in a smokehouse setting. The combination of ingredients and choice of woods for smoking make a huge impact on the finished products. We decided to grab a variety of options to use for gumbo and jambalaya back at home.

Historic Eats

The River Parishes have a long history that includes many ethnic cuisines. Creole and Cajun are often mistaken as the same thing. In reality, they are titles for the descendants of people who came from different areas. Creole refers to a person born in this region even though their family origins may be French, African American, Native American, or European. Cajun people originated as French immigrants from Nova Scotia. Both cultures have retained many of their traditions, especially with the foods they prepare. Creole cuisine could be likened to “city cooking”, which embraces native ingredients. Cajun meals are usually heartier, one-pot dishes that could be considered homestyle cooking. When we arrived at Nobile’s Restaurant, we could tell that there was a lot of history held within their walls.

Mile High Flavor

To say that Nobile’s has history is really an understatement. The beginning of their story goes way back to 1894 when Lawrence Nobile first arrived in Lutcher, Louisiana. Finding a busy logging town, he saw the opportunity for a bustling business. While the building has served a multitude of purposes, it has always been based on hospitality. That is exactly what we found during our visit. We decided to sample some local favorites, like the Shrimp PoBoy, which is served with Zapp’s Chips (made in nearby Gramercy, La.). A mixed plate of fried catfish, rice, and creamy gumbo added another collection of flavors. Dessert was a mile-high slice of Ba Ba, a sweet yellow cake. This historic treat is stacked with layers of cake, custard, coconut, and a meringue topping. Every bite was light and fluffy and tasted like heaven on earth.

Bounty of the Sea

Our visit to the River Parishes wouldn’t be complete without sampling the bounty of the nearby waters. There is no doubt that the people of this region are proud of their native recipes. At every place we dined, we were treated to an assortment of local flavors. A stop at B&C Cajun Restaurant would provide plenty of the flavors that have come to be a local legend. The chef wanted to serve up a collection of flavors that included alligator, rabbit, crab, shrimp, and crawdads. Toss in Boudin balls, hush puppies, oyster, and clam strips to make the meal protein-packed. It seemed like each bite brought a deeper appreciation for the tastes of the region

Italian Delights

While the flavors of the Gulf abound, it isn’t limited to Creole and Cajun cuisines. Just about every restaurant has found a way to incorporate local ingredients into its menu. One of our dinners landed us at Petra Restaurant, in the Louisiana River Parishes. This fine-dining eatery is tucked away in a strip mall and proves that good things can be found in out-of-the-way locations. Here again, we explored some of the coastal tastes. An appetizer of Fried Calamari got our taste buds revved up for the main courses. I sampled the Pasta St. John, which is filled with chicken, andouille, mushrooms, and peppers all served up in a cream sauce. Crystal selected the Shrimp Scampi that is concocted with fresh herbs in a brandy butter sauce. There was no hiding the huge gulf shrimp that gave this dish its name.

Sweet Start

It would have been easy to sleep in, especially with all of these heavy meals. We didn’t want to miss a moment of exploring, and knew that we could rest when we returned home. Mornings are made for coffee, so on one of them, we shot off to The Donut Hole. This local favorite has spent the last 30 years serving up their fried confections to locals and tourists alike. We were saddened to find out that the latest hurricane caused damage that was beyond belief to this site. They have closed their doors, but we couldn’t let our experience pass without mention. The sugary cakes that they would serve up rivaled any we have enjoyed throughout our travels. We want to wish the family and friends the best as they move on to new adventures. Their cheerful faces and sweet starts to the day will be missed.

Modern Twists

We were finding that the collection of flavors available in the River Parishes cover a vast array of cuisines. Our preconceived notions were that everything would revolve around the Andouille Trail. It didn’t take long for us to realize that there is a myriad of tastes to be found in this region. The traditional dishes are plentiful, but we also added in a few eclectic eats to the mix. One such stop landed us at Truck Farm Tavern. This newer eatery has a different take on farm-to-table by incorporating the flavors of fresh ingredients in common dishes. Whether it’s a colorful summer salad or their twist on a Cuban sandwich, their dishes are delectable and artistic, to boot.

Smoky Goodness

Being from the self-proclaimed “Barbecue Capital of the World”, there was a 100% chance we would find some smoked meats during our visit. Sure enough, when we spotted Wayne Jacobs Smokehouse, it was a given that we would be visiting. When we showed up for lunch, we knew it was going to be good. The tell-tale sign was an overloaded parking lot. Stepping out of our car, we could smell the smoky goodness hanging in the air. Our meal ended up being a collection of flavors that represented a cross-section of the menu. Each bite led to more and more taste bud satisfaction. The meats were so delicious that we had to get some for our “take-home” cooler.

Collection of Flavors

It goes without saying, but I will anyway, that we were well-fed during our Louisiana River Parishes excursion. The collection of flavors that are available in this region are unbelievable. We only scratched the surface, but hopefully, we gave you some ideas for your own Gulf Coast visit. Besides the amazing tastes that await you, you will also find friendly people willing to help guide you to even more options. Be sure to make a couple of stops along the Andouille Trail and pick up the meats for making some southern dishes when you get home. We are betting you will be glad you did.

The post Collection Of Flavors – Louisiana River Parishes appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Louisiana River Parishes and Destrehan Plantation for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Historic Buildings

Arriving at the Destrehan Plantation is a little like stepping back into the early 1800s. The main house was completed in 1790, which was during Spanish rule of this region. Not long after, in 1802, they returned it to France. By 1803, the United States would purchase it with the Louisiana Purchase. The majority of the plantations in St. Charles Parish followed French codes. There was a strong desire to introduce the enslaved to Catholicism. This meant that certain rules were applied in this region. Sundays were considered a day off of work. Any enslaved who desired to work on a Sunday had to receive permission from their master and had to be paid for their work.

Realities of Enslaved Life

If enslaved couples were to marry, it could be done through the Catholic church. French code made the separation of husband and wife a forbidden action. With this in mind, many of the plantation owners discouraged church marriages. During our tour, we were shown an example of a cabin that would have housed enslaved workers. Seeing the cramped quarters helped show the realities of enslaved life. We tried to picture an entire family trying to reside in such a small space.

Working the House

As our tour guide led us through the main house, we were introduced to Marguerite. One of the earliest enslaved workers, she came to Destrehan in the late 1700s, along with her two children. Serving as laundress and cook, her life would have revolved around her jobs. Once France had sold the lands to the United States, the rules of slavery began changing. Moving from the production of indigo to sugar doubled the number of workers needed. As an indigo producer, Destrehan ran with 49 slaves. The move to sugar production required that number to grow to 100. This number would increase to over 200 by the Civil War.

The Other Side

While the enslaved suffered through cramped quarters and harsh treatment, the Destrehan family lived a far different lifestyle. The original home was designed to be 35 feet by 60 feet. It was built on brick piers to help avoid the common flooding that was a constant battle along the Mississippi River. As we toured the home, we admired the grand spaces that would have housed the family. High ceilings would help move the heat up and offer cooler spaces near the floor. Large banks of windows would allow for cross breezes to help with ventilation. All of the daily chores would have been handled by the enslaved.

Touring Details

Each of the plantations, throughout the Louisiana River Parishes, has its own focus. An earlier visit to Houmas House had revolved around the grandeur of the era of plantations. Destrehan Plantation was more concentrated on the life of the enslaved workers. Our tour guide peppered in family life stories, but mostly during our time in the main house. The majority of the rest of the visit was all about slave life. We learned that there were groups of workers broken into tasks based on their physical or mental abilities. While the strongest and smartest had the most complicated jobs, there were still jobs that were filled by enslaved workers down to the age of 10 years. The reality of enslaved life was that a hard life faced everyone.

Rising Up

After hearing the stories of the treatment received by the enslaved, we know that they faced an unending atmosphere of oppression. Many attempted to escape, but if caught, they were punished mercilessly. While the threat of this severe punishment forced most of the enslaved into submission, the desire for freedom never waned. The 1811 Slave Revolt was a result of many of the enslaved reaching a breaking point. Our visit to the 1811 Kid Ory Museum had taught us about this event.

Short-Lived Battle

Less than a decade prior to this event, a similar one took place in Haiti. That revolt ended the use of slavery on the island. Some of the plantation owners had fled Haiti for Louisiana Territory. They brought with them some of their slaves, who now relayed the story of the revolt to the enslaved in America. Believing that what occurred in Haiti could be repeated in the States was a driving factor behind the 1811 event. Unfortunately for the enslaved, the large acceptance of slavery had permeated the deep South. The repercussions of the revolt cost many slaves their lives.

Plantation Life

After our tour was completed, we were invited to explore the grounds. Destrehan Plantation offers a few demonstrations that explain more about plantation life. We sat in on a talk focused on the use of bousillage. This mixture of clay and fiber was commonly used to fill the spaces between timbers during the construction of buildings. The clay is easily found in the local soil and the Spanish Moss growing in the trees makes an excellent fiber. This was especially common in French construction. Stone was not readily available, but this formula would harden up like plaster.

Seeing a Different Viewpoint

Like many of the plantations in the Louisiana River Parishes, the property was bought up by an oil company during the 20th Century. As time slowly began deteriorating the historic structures, locals became concerned about losing the local history. The River Road Historical Society was formed to help facilitate the salvage and revitalization of these types of destinations. Most of the oil companies were happy to turn over the management of the properties to a non-profit organization. This allowed for the history of these lands to be preserved as a reminder of where we came from. Seeing the beauty of the structures is a reminder of the artisan work that was created by the enslaved. It also reminds us that the use of tyranny can never again be acceptable in our nation.

The post Realities Of Enslaved Life – Destrehan Plantation appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Louisiana River Parishes and Truck Farm Tavern for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Artful Destination

Truck Farm Tavern pays homage to days long gone. Back in a time when small farm markets were commonplace in towns all across the country. That is the feel they are going for at this homey eatery. The space has a long history of serving the community and was previously a Po’boy sandwich shop. This aspiration to tie to the farming past has driven the staff to strive for farm-fresh meals that showcase the local flavors. Fortunately, they are located in a region that is awash with a variety of fresh ingredients that can be assembled into uniquely artistic cuisine.

Color It Up

With so many delectable Cajun meals under our belt, we were excited to sample some other flavors. On this day in particular, we were still digesting an abundant barbecue lunch we had enjoyed nearby. Crystal decided to switch it up and go lighter for dinner. The River Road Salad is an artistic cuisine choice that brings the colors of summer to the table. A fresh assortment of greens is decorated with roasted beets, pickled red onions, fresh goat cheese, and sweetly candied pecans. I could tell that she was enjoying this fresh treat that would help her justify a potential ice cream run later in the evening.

Artistic Cuisine

Woodward’s Cuban is an assembly of pulled pork, ham, Swiss cheese, and Tabasco pickles. This band of flavors is pressed inside freshly toasted Cuban bread. Being a huge fan of Cuban sammies, this really hit the spot for me. In fact, the fried plantains was a fitting addition to this artistic cuisine specialty. As we dined on our dishes, we noted the wide variety of artwork that decorates this restaurant. Some pieces had a familiar appearance and we knew they were not just works of local artists.

Take It Outside

Making our stop as an early dinner meant that we had the restaurant mostly to ourselves. It didn’t take long for others to begin filing in, but by then we were almost done eating. After dinner, we took a tour of the other spaces, including an outdoor venue that is used for evening and weekend events. Being June in Louisiana, we are guessing that most of these events happen after sundown.

Enjoying Bonfire Country

While the heat and humidity of summer was all around us, we were still enjoying every minute of our visit. The Louisiana River Parishes make a great place to explore history and culture. What we were also learning was that it is also a good destination for culinary adventures. For years, I have watched the Bonfire Country from afar, but now we were actually there. While the actual bonfire celebrations take place on Christmas Eve, the welcoming spirit that permeates the area remains year round. We were also finding that the residents of the River Parishes love sharing their artistic cuisine with visitors. This was something we were enjoying to the fullest, and we were always full.

The post Artistic Cuisine – Truck Farm Tavern appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Louisiana River Parishes and the 1811 Kid Ory Historic House for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

The Historic Home

Slavery has been a bane of human existence for as long as history has been recorded. In almost all cases, there has been an end to it, but not without bloodshed and suffering. Most leave a nation scarred with the memories and stigma of the sins from the past. The Haitian Revolution, which ended in 1804, was one of the rare cases of the enslaved coming out victorious. In fact, it is the only uprising that led to the founding of a new state ruled by nonwhites and absent of slavery. In the aftermath, French sugar plantation owners moved their operations to New Orleans. With them they brought their personal slaves, who were witness to the events in Haiti.

An Informative Overview

We arrived at the Kid Ory House on a hot summer day. Inside we found Charlotte Jones, the Operations manager for the museum. She led us on a short tour of the spaces, which include historical information on 3 subjects. Not only does the museum delve into the 1811 Slave Revolt, it also covers the life of local musician Kid Ory. It is also worth noting that they have a small gallery dedicated to the American mule, which has held an important role in rural Louisiana.

Pushed to the Breaking Point

Between 1790 and 1810, slave traders brought an additional 20,000 enslaved Africans into Louisiana territory. It is quite possible that blacks outnumbered whites 5-to-1, in this region, by 1810. The slaves that were brought from Haiti to America soon found themselves in the same conditions as before. The plantation owners worked them long hours and punished them brutally. This drastically shortened their life spans. This harsh treatment pushed them to the breaking point of revolution.

First Blood

The 1811 Slave Revolt began at the Woodland Plantation of Manuel Andry. It took place in early January, when work relaxes after the sugar cane harvest. The Kid Ory House was originally the home of Manuel Andry. It is estimated that the rebellion began as a group of around 15 slaves. After badly wounding the plantation owner, they struck down and killed his son, Gilbert. Moving on from this place, they gathered more slaves from nearby plantations. Another struggle resulted in the death of a second planter, Francois Trépagnier. It is estimated that the total number of slaves involved numbered between 200 and 500. Most of these were younger men who would have held lower-skilled occupations and thus, were treated more brutally than others.

The Aftermath

Despite being wounded, Andry made his way across the Mississippi River to warn other plantation owners. Word spread to New Orleans where volunteer militia assembled. As they moved westward, the slaves doubled back upriver. An assembly of around 80 armed militia confronted them at one of the plantations. In about 30 minutes, over 40 slaves had been killed. Most of those remaining slipped away into the swamps. In total, about 95 slaves lost their lives. This was from the battle, executions in the field, and additional executions after trial in court.

Lasting Legacy

The 1811 Slave Revolt is a lesson from history that has remained, for the most part, hidden. It is not readily taught in schools and is rare to find in history books. The treatment of the enslaved people is well documented, but sadly rarely mentioned. It is imperative that we understand the trauma suffered by many for so long, and that we do not find ourselves repeating history. While the thought of enslaved life would not seem likely in this day and age, it still exists in places around the world.

The post Breaking Point – 1811 Slave Revolt appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Louisiana River Parishes and Houmas House for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Navigating Breakfast

Being guests of Houmas House, we were excited to sample the morning breakfast at the Dixie Café. Our packet of goodies included two passes and we found that arriving early gave us the place nearly to ourselves. As we dined, our discussion revolved around the amazing landscape of this plantation. Before we left the restaurant, we were honored with a chance to speak with Kevin Kelly, the property owner who actually lives in the majestic home. After a brief chat, we moved on to our museum tour.

Early Exploration

Entering the grand foyer, we discovered an assortment of displays that whet the appetite for the main course that is to come. Here we were introduced to some of the key players in the region. Besides the background on the Houma tribe, we also found a couple of names that are common to the foundation of the cities along the southern Gulf Coast. The LeMoyne brothers explored the shorelines along the coast and discovered the safe harbors that would become New Orleans and Mobile, Alabama.

Expanded Territory

Stepping into the museum, we fast forward to a period when ships were regularly navigating the Mighty Mississippi. A vast section of the interior of the continent was controlled by France. For the United States to grow, it needed land. Changing dynamics in Europe concerned the legislators in Washington. Delegates were sent to France to seek the purchase of New Orleans. To their surprise, they were offered a deal that would sell all of France’s holding, in the continent, to the United States. A drawn-out war with Britain had taxed France’s economy and they were in need of a cash injection. While this $11 million deal was beneficial for a growing nation, it did not pass unnoticed.

Defending the Region

The United States had won its freedom only a few decades before this point. The War of 1812 was Britain’s last major conflict with the United States. It brought to bear not only these two nations but also drew in Spain and France. While the Revolutionary War had gained freedom, this would bring an end to British occupancy in the U.S. The need to secure the borders created an unusual situation that called for unusual solutions. The Battle of New Orleans would see Andrew Jackson team up with pirate Jean Lafitte to defeat the British forces. At the Cabildo, in New Orleans, we had learned about this key battle for control over the river and the surrounding territory.

Bumper Crops

With the argument over ownership ended, it was time to move forward with taming the lands along the Mississippi River. In the Louisiana River Parishes region, the lands were divvied up for the development of plantations. The landholdings in this area ranged from small one or two-acre farms to the immense sugar plantations that occupied hundreds of acres. The common bond between these was navigating the Mighty Mississippi to get goods to market. New Orleans would become the hub for transportation to the East and Midwest. The time of the steamboats was reaching its pinnacle.

Navigating the Mighty Mississippi

After the War of 1812, there were about 20 ships plying the waterway along the Mississippi River. Now that peace had come to the land, this number quickly escalated. By the 1830s there were more than 1200. The plantations were directly tied to the steamboats, as it was the easiest way to reach their customers. The typical steamboat was constructed of wood and designed to navigate the rivers. They came in a variety of sizes with some nearly 300 feet long and up to 80 feet wide. These massive ships needed seasoned captions to navigate the Mighty Mississippi. To aid in this, the Army Corps of Engineers worked diligently to remove sandbars and other obstacles in the waterways.

Gambling on the River

As with any venture, people will look for ways to profit from others. With a large number of people traveling on steamboats, clever businesspeople found ways to earn a living. Gambling was an easy form of entertainment and quite profitable. Many jurisdictions had laws prohibiting this activity on land. In the middle of a river, people were free to partake. This continues even today, as there are many cities that have “floating” casinos that are all but land-locked.

New Exhibits

Much like Westward Expansion, the Great River Road Steamboat Museum continues to evolve. New exhibits are being added that will focus on the plight of the enslaved. It was on the backs of these people that the fortunes of the sugar barons were built. We hope to have an opportunity to return, at a future date, to see the completed exhibits. We are sure they will be as diligent in the details as they have been with their other displays.

One Final Pause

Visiting the plantations in the Louisiana River Parishes can be an eye-opening experience. It’s a chance to walk through over 250 years of history that encompasses so many cultures. Houmas House, and its accompanying attractions, was a good start for exploring the lives of those who came before. With a better understanding of how the region developed, we were prepared to learn more of the background of the different peoples who formed this history. We couldn’t wait to do more exploring.

The post Navigating The Mighty Mississippi – Great River Road Steamboat Museum appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Louisiana River Parishes and Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Local Life

In the heart of the River Road, tradition is key. Running a smokehouse takes dedication and years of practice. Wayne Jacob’s is steeped in barbecue tradition, as the business has been handed down for generations. Back in 1950, Nolan Jacob built the current home of the smokehouse and included an apartment over the top. He wanted to make sure he was close at hand anytime the smokehouse was operating. This level of commitment is a large reason why the restaurant is a local favorite.

Watchful Eye

Our barbecue experiences have taught us that there are many ways to become a smoke master. In Quebec City, we dined with a French-trained chef who studied the art all across the United States. One of the best teachers is time. Wayne Jacob has the advantage of being raised in a barbecue family, so those years of trial and error have been recorded for him. With all of this family history in tow, he keeps a watchful eye over the business to ensure consistent results.

Teasing Tastes

Knowing that this would be our only stop at his restaurant during this trip, Wayne wanted to make sure we got a great sampling of the restaurant’s menu. We started it with a blend of the appetizers. A bowl of Chicken & Andouille Gumbo featured tons of smoky goodness as it is packed with meats made in-house. A few Boudin Balls really hit the spot. These pork sausage and rice creations kept us coming back for more. To cap it off, Wayne threw in some of his classic Andouille Chips, which are sliced thin and fried up nice and crispy. The Creole Mustard dipping sauce was a perfect compliment for them.

Smoky Goodness

Now that we had whetted our appetites, it was time for the main courses. With so many great choices on the lunch menu, we once again left it to Wayne to fix us up. When the tray hit the table, we knew we were about to enter barbecue overload. The four corners were each occupied by the smoky goodness of a different meat option. We discovered a Half Smoked Chicken, Baby Back Ribs, Beef Brisket, and Smoked Sausage. To top it all off, there was also a bowl of Roux Peas and one of Baked Beans to compliment all of the meats. For the next half hour, the only sounds coming from our table were the coos of satisfaction that accompany a satisfying meal.

Exploring the River Road

Try as we might, we just couldn’t finish everything. Of course, the smoky goodness kept us coming back even after we were stuffed. Oh well, we knew we would be walking it off at our next stop. Before we departed Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse, we had to pick up some of the smoked meats for back home. We knew that this fall we would be wanting to make our own batch of red beans & rice, so some of his trademark Andouille sausages would be a perfect compliment. Fortunately, we can mail order more when it’s all gone.

The post Smoky Goodness – Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank the Louisiana River Parishes and Houmas House for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Settling In

To really investigate the Houmas House, we were lodged in one of the quaint cottages located on the plantation grounds. Nestled under a canopy of shade trees, these cottages offer visitors the run of the grounds after regular business hours. Even with our late arrival, we would still have time to explore the gardens before settling in for the night. We were excited to begin our adventure at the crown jewel of the river road.

Getting Lost in the Views

Our first taste of plantation life was to immerse ourselves in the gardens at Houmas House. Arriving in late May, we found ourselves in a transition period. The Spring burst of color was transitioning to the cool tones of summer. The days were lengthening and with that comes the increase in temperature. Humidity is another reality that must be faced in the River Parishes. The evenings brought with them a cooling breeze that made our stroll through the gardens pleasant. Dotted all around the grounds is an assortment of statuary, both whimsical and traditional.

Hiding in Plain Sight

As the evening wore on, the waning sunlight gave way to darkness. Seeing the gardens by landscape lighting offered a new perspective of its beauty. The grand old oak trees, dripping with Spanish moss, rose-like giants from the ground. Seeing the Houmas House bathed in light gave us a new appreciation for its classic Greek revival architecture. Retracing our steps along the paved pathways, we discovered hidden gems that had escaped our earlier detection. After a little more exploring, it was time to settle in for some rest before our first full day of exploring in the Louisiana River Parishes.

Let’s Get this Tour Started

The land around the river is loaded with layers of sediments deposited over the ages. This has created a fertile delta that is perfect for growing sugar cane, corn, cotton, tobacco, indigo, and other crops. Today, the farming of these lands is a far cry from the plantation days of old. At its high point, the plantation was part of a 10,000-acre estate, but these days that has been reduced to around 38 acres.  Long gone are the days of slavery and oppression, so visitors to the region will only find the remnants of the opulent lives that were gained off of the labor of others. By the start of the 20th century, the Houmas House had fallen into disrepair and was in danger of being lost to time.

Crown Jewel of the River Road

It was the promise of prosperity that drew people to this region. The early settlers quickly realized that taming the river would allow them to profit from the bounty of the land. Our tour at Houmas House was led by Susanna, who began it with the traditional bell ringing. This would give us our first glimpse inside of the stately structure. The entire compound was constructed over a period of years. Construction began in 1775, and it took until 1840 to reach its current size. Unfortunately, many of the traditional architectural features were removed, during the occupancy by a New Orleans doctor, in the mid-1900s.

Opulent Elegance

In 2003, a New Orleans businessman purchased the property with the intention of returning it to its previous stature. The goal was to recreate the plantation’s appearance in the mid-1800s. Our tour guide led us through the house, taking us from one elegant room to the next. It is hard to take in every aspect of a room, but it was clear that attention to detail was a high priority during the restoration process. We had relished in the comforts of our cottage but found the opulence of the main house to be unmatched.

The Games People Play

To truly showcase an entire period requires the inclusion of all parts of daily life. In the game room, we discovered a collection of artifacts that would have been used to entertain guests. This extravagant life was far removed from that experienced by the enslaved people, who kept the plantation running. Many of the slave quarters, which have long since been demolished, were mere shacks. Thousands of these would have been found in the South prior to the Civil War. Plantations faired a bit better, but there was also a considerable number that wasted away by the 1940s. At that time, a revival of the region’s history was instituted that saw a handful of plantations restored.

Amazing Architecture

Continuing our tour of this crown jewel of the river road, Susanna moved us to the base of one of the house’s most notable architectural features. The free-standing three-story helix staircase seemed oddly familiar. It was here that they filmed the murder mystery Hush…Hush, Sweet Charlotte, as well as numerous other productions. There have even been a few commercials shot on the grounds at Houmas House.

A Familiar Face

The current owner, Kevin Kelly, has directed a massive endeavor to recapture the original elegance of the home. Unfortunately, so many revisions had been made over the years that it is impossible to bring it back to the original. Since he actually lives in the house, he has incorporated some of his favorites in the décor. Being an avid dog lover, we spotted an assortment of dog-themed paintings throughout the various spaces. Being an art enthusiast, he has also included pieces that he has amassed over the years. One of my favorites was this small statue of Abraham Lincoln.

Summer Kitchen

As our tour of Houmas House was nearing its end, we made our way to the summer kitchen. These were a common necessity for homes in the south. You wouldn’t want to be heating up the main house during the summer months, so all of the chores that required a fire were moved out to these buildings. Our guide gave us a final bit of historical information before thanking us for our visit. This stop at the crown jewel of the river road had given us a base for understanding plantation owner life.

Taking It All In

Before we departed, we took another stroll around the grounds. It is impossible to take in all of the small details in such a short time. We continued our education of the history on plantations in the Louisiana River Parishes, with our groundwork complete. We knew it would be imperative to see it from all sides, so we planned visits to multiple plantations. Each one has their own story to tell, so it was important to listen closely to hear each story. But first, let’s just soak in this view for a little bit longer.

The post Crown Jewel Of The River Road – Houmas House appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Louisiana River Parishes and B&C Seafood Market for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Happy Life

B&C Seafood Riverside Market & Cajun Restaurant is quite a mouthful to say. To shorten it any would be a disservice to all of the goodness that this place has to offer. As we entered the restaurant, we found ourselves in the market section. We were met with an infectious laugh as one of the staff members interacted with customers. Looking around, we noticed they had a fresh supply of cooked mudbugs ready for eating. A grouping of coolers was filled with all sorts of delectable treats. If we lived nearby, this would certainly be a regular stop for us.

Take It Easy

Here in the heart of Plantation Alley, we knew we could find real Cajun food. After all, owner Tom Breaux has been fishing the waters around this region for decades. His restaurant has drawn in some well-known people. As we sat and talked with Tom, he pointed out a guitar hanging on a nearby wall. When he mentioned that it was a souvenir from Tim McGraw, we just had to know why it was here. Turns out that Tim filmed part of his video “The Rest of Our Life” in B&C Cajun Restaurant. Crystal immediately recalled it and I would make sure to get a refresher as soon as we got a chance.

Bounty of the Gulf

After an entertaining conversation with Tom, he excused himself and left us to our meal. Chef Lanny Weber had prepared us a variety of dishes that reflected the tastes of the land and sea. He spread these across two platters and we knew that we would not be leaving hungry. On platter #1 we discovered a mix of Fried Shrimp and Alligator. With each bite, the crunchy coating gave way to the delicious texture of the meat hidden within. A bowl of Smoked Rabbit Gumbo anchored the center of the tray and provided a depth of flavor. The platter also held Okra and Crab Cakes that had been fried to golden perfection. We could already see the need to pace ourselves.

Tastes of the Land and Sea

The second platter contained more delectable treats. Fried Oysters and Clam Strips offered chewy bites of bold flavor. The footed bowl on this tray contained a Seafood Gumbo that complimented the Hush Puppies and Boudin Balls that accompanied it. With all of this variety, we were really getting a true taste and the depth of flavors available in the River Parishes. B&C Cajun Restaurant is a little off of the beaten path, but that means you will be hanging with the locals when you visit. We are confident that you will feel welcomed by the friendly folk of this region.

Heads On

Just when we thought we had sampled it all, the chef brought out another basket. This one was brimming with fresh cooked Shrimp and Crawdads. You can’t visit the bayou area without partaking in some mudbugs. There is something addictive about the sweet taste of their meat. No knife and fork needed to really enjoy a dish full, just tear off the heads and dig in. It’s hard to describe the actual flavor, but I would say it is a cross between crab and shrimp. It is definitely less salty than lobster but still offers a firm texture.

Land of the River Parishes

Our visit to the Louisiana River Parishes felt like a step into another time. One where people were more relaxed and the pace was just a bit slower. Courtesy is still a thing to have and the warm smiles of passersby remind you of their welcoming spirit. Much like the people, the food is filled with tradition. The tastes of the land and sea have been prepared for generations, so their recipes are tried and true. It feels like every bite reminded us that we were in river country.

The post Tastes Of The Land And Sea – B&C Cajun Restaurant appeared first on Our Changing Life.