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Our visit to the St. Charles County Heritage Museum offered an incredible glimpse into the area’s rich history. As history buffs, we were excited to explore the exhibits that delve into the pivotal moments shaping the region and the nation. From the Indian Wars to the War of 1812, the museum provides a fascinating narrative of Missouri’s historic wars. Their use of informative placards, engaging dioramas, and beautiful costumes kept us entertained during our visit. We learned a lot of history that we missed in school.

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We want to thank St. Joseph Museum Complex for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Early Misunderstandings

Throughout human history, mental illness has been with us. During the Middle Ages, society was dealing with a variety of health issues. With outbreaks of smallpox, bubonic plague, and leprosy wiping out large numbers of the population, the early forms of health care were fighting a losing battle. Mental illness was considered an imbalance issue, which needed the assistance of physicians to correct. At the same time, the church believed the conditions to stem from demon possession or sorcery. Women with mental conditions were often mistaken as consorting with witches and dealt with by various forms of physical abuse or torture. As time moved forward, treatment for mental illness was slow to advance.

Lunatic Asylum No. 2

By the 19th century, treatments had moved to the use of social isolation. Hospitals, often referred to as insane asylums, had become commonplace. In 1874, Missouri opened the State Hospital for the Insane No. 2 in St. Joseph, which was often just called Lunatic Asylum #2. Starting with 25 patients, it didn’t take long to fill its 275 bed capacity. Over the years, more and more beds were added until by the 1950s it was serving 3000 patients.

The Self-sufficient Days

In the earlier days, the hospital was designed to be self-sufficient. The nearby farmland provided food for the facility. Many of the patients worked the fields and assisted with caring for livestock. The staff needed only procure sugar and salt to supplement the food grown on-site. As the number of beds increased, the ability to remain self-sustaining became more difficult. In 1899, the name was changed to the St. Joseph State Hospital and the number of criminally insane were expanded.

Handling the Masses

As the population of the hospital expanded, so did the main form of treatment. By the 1920s, a new phrase was introduced into the world of mental illness treatment. Psychopharmacology involved the usage of drug therapy to assist in controlling patients. Many of the drugs were designed to put patients into a nearly catatonic state. These new medications were effective in reducing aggressive or harmful behavior, so it was well received at a facility designed to house the criminally insane.

Facing the Past

Moving forward in time, health care continued to experiment on ways to cure and control mental illness. Many of the treatments are now considered barbaric, but at the time were cutting edge experimentation. Patients experiencing manic episodes were subjected to hydrotherapy. They would be submerged in cold water for hours. Mechanical constraints were commonplace, as doctors felt they helped keep patients safe. As the population inside of the asylum grew, these restraints became a way to control overcrowding. The next fad to surface was electroconvulsive shock therapy. The use of electricity to change mental activity became popular in the late 1930s.

Life Changing Therapies

By the late 1940s, another treatment would surface, which offered permanent changes for the patient. Lobotomies involved damaging specific portions of the brain in an effort to prohibit the connections that were causing the maladies. While these surgeries did help calm many of the patients, it would bring changes beyond the bad behaviors. Permanent memory loss and personality changes were commonplace. The next major change in mental health care would involve medications.

Behind the Scenes

For many decades, morphine and opium had been prescribed to calm patients. The side effects of these treatments proved the need for better medications. In the 1950s, Thorazine hit the market. Psychiatrists saw it as the miracle drug that they had been waiting years to see. Along with a variety of other antipsychotic drugs, this was a turning point for mental health care. When these drugs were introduced, there were more than 500,000 patients in asylums across America. By the mid-1990s, this number would drop to around 70,000.

Glore Psychiatric Museum

The treatment of mental illness has come a long way since the Middle Ages. In 1967, an employee of the hospital, named George Glore, opened a small museum in one of the wards. By the time he retired, in the 1990s, the museum had expanded its exhibits to cover the long history of mental illness treatment. By this point, most of the patients had returned to society. Without a need for the asylum, a large portion of the facility was converted into a correctional facility. With three floors of exhibits, the Glore Psychiatric Museum offers a glimpse at the difficult history of treating mental illness. One of the key take-aways we got from our visit is that only by facing the past can we learn to do better in the future.

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We want to thank the St. Joseph CVB and Felix Street Gourmet for hosting our visit. rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Rocking the Downtown

Our standard approach to exploring a new destination is to look for walkable areas downtown. While we had been to St. Joseph previously, this was our first time to concentrate on this particular section. We explored a few of their boutiques, while our primary focus was their art walk. Most of the public art comes in the form of sculptures, but there are some amazing murals thrown into the mix. Just up the street from Felix Street Gourmet, we spotted this music-themed mural. It features a grouping of famous musicians, but the one that drew my attention was Steve Walsh, a former lead singer of the band Kansas.

Humble Beginnings

Once our hunger had grown, we set aside our shopping adventure and moved into meal mode. Stepping into Felix Street Gourmet, we were greeted by a cheese shop. I’ll admit that it caught us off guard, but we pressed on into the next section. Here we found a bar area with a vast assortment of wines and spirits. A staff member spotted us and asked if we were shopping or dining. It was obvious that those looking to create a gourmet dinner would have no problem finding many of the ingredients at this shop. We told him that this was a meal event and he showed us to a table in the well-lit dining room.

Fantastic Finger Foods

The menu at Felix Street Gourmet abounds with an assortment of fantastic finger foods. As we reviewed the menu, we struggled to make it past their selection of charcuterie boards. They also offer flatbread pizzas, an assortment of dips and dippers, and a wide variety of handheld sammies. Even with all of those temptations, it was the idea of a romantic meal of wine and charcuterie that drew us in. This is a meal choice that we have found to be a fun diversion from the standard separate plates we often find. We have seen this option becoming more available, like the ones we discovered at Brew Bank in Topeka, Kansas. Paired with some delectable red wine, our meal was a combination of flavor and conversation.

Moving Ahead

Knowing the reason for our visit, our server introduced us to the owner, Pat Modlin. He asked us if we would like a tour of the space, which we gladly accepted. After passing back through the areas we had already discovered, Pat led us to a second-story space designed for larger parties. He expanded into this area as his business grew. There was a complete remodel to add to make this space his own. Next, he led us to an outdoor patio that is used for special occasions, weekends, and some evenings. From this vantage point, I was able to spot the musician mural we had found earlier. What a great place to kick back and wind down after a long work week.

Excuse Us While We Tear This Up

Now that we had all of the makings of a delicious lunch at our disposal, it was time to tear into it. It was interesting to sample how the various flavors could be combined to create bursts that tickled our taste buds. We discussed how each combination differed from the last. After quenching our hunger, we decided it was time to move on. While our time at Felix Street Gourmet had come to an end, the memory of this experience was sure to linger.

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We want to thank the Pony Express Museum for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Calling Young Riders

The California Gold Rush and Mormon Exodus had created a need for fast, dependable mail service beyond the Rocky Mountains. By 1857, the Butterfield Overland Mail Service was traversing the 2000-miles in about 25 days. With the Civil War looming on the horizon, the need for shorter delivery times was imperative. William Russell, Alexander Majors, and William Waddell were the three prominent business owners who proposed a solution. By using a shorter route and mounted riders, they believed they could cut the deliveries to 10 days. Many thought this was impossible, but plans moved forward to create the Pony Express.

Swearing-In

What would entice young men to risk life and limb to deliver the mail? In 1860, the average pay for unskilled labor was $15 to $30 per month. The Pony Express was offering riders a chance to earn $125 per month. With the promise of such vast rewards, the supply of willing participants was plentiful. Some strict guidelines came tied to the purse strings, and an oath was sworn by each rider. A revolver and water sack accompanied the slightly built riders, who had to maintain weight under 125 lbs. This left capacity for up to 20 lbs. of mail to be handled in every run. Riders were expected to cover 75 to 100 miles, in a cycle, with pony changes every 10 miles.

Exploring the Pony Express Museum

St. Joseph, Missouri was the eastern terminus, for the route, so it is all fitting that the Pony Express Museum would call it home. As we explored their exhibits, we found many incorporate interactive displays. In the stables, we imagined Johnny Fry preparing to depart on the inaugural run, in 1860. We felt like kids, as we pumped water for the cattle and raced across the prairie on our imaginary ponies. Nearby, we discovered a makeshift structure that replicates one of the 190 express stations.

Bare Necessities

Stepping into the station, we found it to consist of the bare essentials. The express stations came in many shapes and forms. Each station would have sat about 10 miles from the next and offered the rider a two-minute break. The Pony Express route led west out of St. Joseph on the way to Fort Kearney. On a previous trip, we had a chance to visit the Pony Express Barn Museum, in Marysville, Kansas. This is one of the last remaining original structures and gives visitors a chance to better picture their simplicity. We tried to imagine what it would have been like to be charged with maintaining a station. It must have included many hours of solitary existence.

Ride Like the Wind

While the Pony Express riders gained all of the glory, they would have failed without the help of the station keepers. Left alone to tend the stock and keep up the station, they experienced a tough life. Often, they would be the object of attack, as they made easy targets. During the Paiute Indian War, many stations were attacked and burned to the ground. It even required the suspension of deliveries between Carson City and Salt Lake, for about a month.

Rider #1

While every rider was key to the success of the Pony Express, it all had to start with one. There is some argument about it, but the majority of accounts credit Johnny Fry with being the first westbound rider. Born in Kentucky, Fry was an accomplished horseman. It was after a horse race that Alexander major first approached Johnny about a job. Fry accepted the position and became the first leg to launch from the stables in St. Joseph, Missouri. On the inaugural ride, Johnny carried 50 pieces of mail including a congratulatory letter from President Buchanan.

Notable Figures

As we examined the displays at the Pony Express Museum, we read the bios of various riders who traveled across the wild frontier. Some were hired for their knowledge of the territory, while others for their daring attitudes. It was interesting learning how each made their way into this business and what transpired in their lives afterward. The dangers of the route were always present, so it took steady nerves to match up to the challenge. All needed to embrace the code of the business and dedicate themselves to putting mail delivery above everything else.

Riding into History

The days of the Pony Express were limited by the changing technology of the time. After only 19 months, the enterprise was replaced by the telegraph. Even though it was short-lived, the Pony Express has left its mark in the history books. Even today, you will hear references to this long ago business. The daring of the riders encompassed the spirit of the American pioneer. Facing unknown dangers was an everyday occurrence, but they knew that the mail must go through. It’s their resolve that has captured the heart of visitors to the Pony Express Museum. In a way, each of us can be modern-day explorers seeking out new experiences. It all starts by stepping out the door.

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The Little Village

His foray into business involved Sam and a friend, Bill Biel. Originally, it was two-dimensional drawings used for greeting cards and posters. At a Christian Booksellers convention, they were greeted with an overwhelming demand for their products. Soon after, an American giftware distributor approached Sam with the request to produce a three-dimensional prototype. His first piece was titled “Love One Another” and was produced in porcelain.

Moving the Business Forward

In just a few short years, Sam had created a line of 21 individual figurines. The statuaries created from Sam’s art quickly grew in popularity. He would receive tons of letters from adoring fans who felt touched by their message. By the mid-1980s, Sam was on his quest for a new home base. His grand design would include a chapel where he could express his faith and love for God. A visit to Rome had provided him a view of the Sistine Chapel. This would inspire him to create his own masterpiece that would console and inspire others.

Perfect Placement

With an air of determination, Sam set about fulfilling his dream on the outskirts of Carthage. It would take five years of painstaking work to create and decorate the Precious moments Chapel. He opened it in 1989 and it has since been visited by millions of people from around the globe. The monies earned from the sale of his figurines were pumped back into this project. To allow everyone the opportunity to see his handiwork, the property offered free admission. Being located on the edge of the Ozarks made it an ideal stop for people traveling Route 66. While the changing times have lowered the number of visitors, there is still a steady flow on most days.

Precious Moments Chapel

We had made a visit many years ago, but the memories had faded. This time we were seeing it with fresh eyes. Entering through the gift shop, we chose to take a self-guided tour. After exploring the visitors center, we made our way outdoors. The day was overcast and filled with rain showers, so we skipped an in-depth view of the grounds. Staying along the paved pathway led us to the shrub-lined entrance to the Chapel. Hurrying down it, we entered the serene space to view the grand work of Sam Butcher.

An Artist’s Dream

During the construction of the chapel and supporting buildings, Sam had time to think about the subject of his decorations. He wanted it to be a reflection of his deep belief in God. When we entered the main Chapel, we were greeted by the massive “Hallelujah Square” mural. It is designed to be a reflection of heaven through the eyes of a child. The painting shows a young girl standing at the gates of heaven. A gathering of angels is ready to welcome her in. Scattered throughout the paintings are images of people that are dear to Sam. Many of the characters that touch our hearts express the hope that Sam has for those that have gone before us.

Carried Home

While Sam had spent many years creating this masterpiece, his personal life was filled with difficulties. After completing the chapel, he moved his family to St. Charles, Missouri. He also created a resort in the Philippines, where he would spend more and more time. It was during one of these visits that he lost his son, Phillip. To counter his grief, he threw himself into his work. This would lead to him creating Phillip’s Room at the Chapel. His children saw the effects on him and took over the management of his business. This allowed him to return to the Philippines for an extended stay. Once again tragedy struck the family with the loss of his son, Tim. This inspired him to create a bell tower in his honor.

Changing Times

As we wrapped up our visit, we were filled with so many memories from our early days of marriage. Seeing the cherub-like figurines reminded us of the times when our kids were still just passengers in the backseat of our car. The changing times have seen them grow into adults and even bless us with grandchildren. Who knew that this short stop at a Midwest attraction would bring us back to our beginning. It made us wonder if we had any of those early figurines stashed away in one of our totes filled with our family’s memories.

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Cruising the path of the old Route 66 led us through the heart of Carthage, Missouri. As we pass the normal mix of fast-food restaurants and corporate businesses, we spot a gleaming silver shape ahead. Positioned on a frontage space, which has since been converted to a traffic circle, we spot Iggy’s Diner. The stainless steel shell screams “retro” with flashbacks of 50s malt shops dancing through our heads. Even on an overcast day, the appearance of this iconic stop excites us. Here we were confident to find that they were reviving nostalgia along the Mother Road.

Diner History

Diners have been around for well over 100 years. The style represented at Iggy’s Diner began popping up just after World War II. Sliding into the 50s, the American diner became popular with families who were looking for entertaining excursions. Prior to these stainless steel versions, the diner had consisted of “lunch wagons”. This newer version was closer to a café and had expanded capacity. The diner industry had suffered during the Depression, like most other service businesses. The popularity of Route 66 helped create a demand for more of these stops. While many have long ago disappeared, we still happen upon them at times.

Reviving the Past

Iggy’s Diner is definitely a newer version of this old-school eatery. The building was fabricated in the late 1990s, but it has a vibe much older. The modern conveniences that accompany its newness are mostly superficial to the naked eye of diners. Built with a concrete floor, metal wall studs, and a metal roof are parts hidden from open view. What flashed before our eyes were the old maps and musical posters of 50s musical artists. They were doing a bang-up job of reviving nostalgia along the Mother Road.

Old School Eats

We decided that if we were going to travel back to the 50s, we ought to be dining on nostalgic dishes. The menu includes a wide range of options, but our gazes stopped at the Burger Baskets. What is more iconic than that? We decided to get a couple of versions and split them between us. Crystal chose the Bacon Ranch Burger that is seasoned with ranch spices. A heaping side of Curly Fries rounded out her basket. I picked the Piggy Iggy, which combines a beef patty with sliced smoked ham. It is the best of both worlds. My side was a plentiful mound of Onion Rings. Our conversation slowed as we concentrated on devouring the abundant portions sitting in front of us.

Reviving Nostalgia Along the Mother Road

From the stainless steel shell to the brightly colored booths, Iggy’s Diner exudes the essence of the past. Our visit occurred after a stop at the Battle of Carthage Museum, so the Saturday lunch rush was winding down. This opened up our view to be able to take the full atmosphere of the space. As we lingered at our Formica-topped table, we soaked in the nostalgia of this rekindled “greasy spoon”. Our lunch meal had hit the spot but the open road was calling our names. Time to head out and continue reviving nostalgia along the Mother Road.

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We want to thank the Battle of Carthage Museum for its hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

Battle of Carthage Museum

I’ll be honest and say that I was among the throng of people who were unaware of the significance of the Battle of Carthage. The history books fail to mention that this battle took place 11 days prior to the 1st Battle of Bull Run. To better understand this battle, we must rewind a month, to early June 1861. Missouri Governor Claiborne Jackson was a pro-Southerner who suspected the Union forces deployed by President Lincoln. A conflict between the Union forces and the Missouri militia, near St. Louis, added to the rising tension in the state. A last-ditch conference between the two sides failed to resolve the growing distrust.

Straightforward Layout

Inside the Battle of Carthage Museum, we discovered an easy-to-follow floorplan. Most of the displays are housed along the outer walls of the space. Visitors can follow along the path of the battle, and find tidbits of information about the people that were involved. There are also some exhibits that informed us about the atmosphere in the region before, during, and after the battle. A large diorama shows how the battle played out, as it actually began outside of town, before moving into the city square.

War Out West

While Missouri was technically a neutral state, Southern sympathy ran deep in many of the rural areas. The war out west had already been raging for nearly half of a decade by 1861. To the north, bands of guerrilla fighters inflicted raids on both sides of the Missouri-Kansas line. Events like the Sacking of Lawrence and the Battle of Black Jack kept tensions high throughout the region. When Governor Jackson took the lead of the Missouri State Guard, it signaled the only time that a sitting U.S. governor led troops against the Union to which his state belonged.

Union Forces

After the decay of relations in St. Louis, the Missouri State Guard headed southwest. A delay in Jefferson City was thwarted by Union troops being led by Gen. Nathaniel Lyon and  Col. Franz Sigel. The Guard retreated to Boonville, where a skirmish took place on June 17th. Jackson had hoped to rally groups of Guard in Boonville, as this area was sympathetic to the Southern position. His hope was to gather 50,000 troops and run the Union forces out of the state. The Union forces were made up of a large contingency of battle-hardened German immigrants. They were well equipped with artillery and made quick work of Jackson’s attempt to hold Boonville.

Confederate Volunteers

The Confederate forces consisted primarily of Missouri State Guard troops. Since the war was only beginning, there had not yet been time to raise funds and create a regulated look. Quite a few of the volunteers were armed with their own weapons from home, while others had no weapons at all. In fact, during a portion of the battle of Carthage, Confederate forces began a flanking maneuver using the unarmed participants. Since the Union was unaware of this, they had to take the threat seriously and began their retreat toward town.

A Battle Comes to Carthage

By using field artillery, as well as a brave bayonet charge, Sigel’s forces were able to successfully reach the Carthage town square. The Confederates continued their pursuit and a firefight broke out on the square. After a day filled with engagement, the Union forces were able to escape during the night. The Missouri State Guard lost 35 men and had 125 injured. They also suffered the capture of 45 soldiers. On the Union side, there were 13 casualties, 35 injured, and 5 captured. The victory went to the Confederate forces who would repeat the feat a month later at Wilson’s Creek.

Who Knew?

Whenever we visit a new museum, we enjoy the little tidbits that we discover. It wasn’t too much of a stretch to imagine that the firefight caused significant damage to the buildings in Carthage. Many towns were decimated by the fighting that took place throughout the Civil War. When we learned that the town was home to a young Myra Maybelle Shirley, we were a little surprised. In later life, she would go by the alias of Belle Starr. Hailing from Missouri, it was no surprise that she would eventually be associated with the James-Younger Gang.

Clued In

The Battle of Carthage was not the end of war-time activity in this city. Aggressions continued throughout the war and eventually led to the city being burned to near completion in August of 1864. After that, there was no reason for either side to use the buildings as a stronghold. By the fall of 1866, the town was seeing a rebirth and a return to prosperity. Located on the path of the original Route 66, visitors from all over the world pass through this city every year. We wonder how many realize the violent stories that accompany the city’s place in history.

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Perspectives from the Road

We have memories of traveling the route since our childhoods. For me, it was large portions of time spent in southern Missouri and Kansas, as well as the eastern half of Oklahoma. Many of the sites that dotted the roadside were already well-established, but this had not always been the case. Route 66 was established in 1926, and became the nation’s first all-weather highway. While it may not have been the longest or oldest American highway, it provided the shortest path between the Midwest and West Coast. To understand the significance of this highway, we need to better grasp life in this period of the country. A stop at the Route 66 Museum in Lebanon, Missouri was another chance to piece together the history of this road.

The Early Days

America was quickly changing and the country needed roads to manage these changes. The heavy agriculture base of the central states had to rely on the railroad for transportation, but rail paths were limited. The addition of highways, like Route 66, would provide pathways to places not serviced by rail. By the time I would travel the road, it was all paved, but I can imagine the earliest days. From my times in the country, I know what the weather can do to a dirt road. Imagine heading out on a cross-country journey not knowing what road conditions you would encounter.

Rough Roads

Trips like that would be more like adventures. Packing the car would require creating a second home. After all, the construction of restaurants, motels, and shops would come later. When your day ended in a city or town, these conveniences could often be found. Often times, the path between towns would be the resting stop for meals or even nighttime lodging. Talk about your old-school camping trips. The rough roadways would also present the possibility of damages to your vehicle, so plenty of spare parts should be included during packing. This display case at the Route 66 Museum reminds us of the struggles that faced many of those early day road warriors.

Adding Convenience

As more and more travelers paved the way, it brought with it people looking to capitalize off of the route. Motor lodges, now called motels, sprang up all along Route 66. These offered an easy overnight stay that got travelers out of a tent and into a bed. Over time, more amenities were added to entice travelers to stop. The addition of glowing neon signs would beckon weary drivers to pull off for the night. While many of these iconic stops have gone by the wayside, there are still plenty around. Part of the fun of a Route 66 road trip is picking a couple of these stops for an overnight stay. It offers us travelers a chance to merge with the history of the Mother Road.

Filling a Need

By the late 1930s, Route 66 had rivaled the railroad for the transportation of goods. Truckers began traveling the road in droves, which signaled the need for more amenities. Roadside cafes and diners popped up all along the path. During our explorations, we have sampled a few of the most iconic restaurants. In Springfield, Illinois, we discovered the self-proclaimed corndog origin at Cozy Dogs. Another Route 66 trip landed us at The Big Texan, in Amarillo, where we were tempted to challenge a Texas-sized steak dinner. We are betting that many of these early eateries probably used their own gimmicks to draw in diners.

A Touch of Home

Besides seeing all of the memories of yesteryear, places like the Route 66 Museum are also informative. The Kansas portion of the Mother Road is the smallest of any state. Since my childhood summers were spent in that region, I have traveled every inch of it. In fact, we were lucky enough to visit it again during an event hosted by Kansas Tourism. The fact that mining was the base of the economy for generations is well-known in that region. What we didn’t realize is that traffic along Route 66 had been shut down due to labor disputes. Obviously, it was well before our time.

America’s Main Street

Many remember the catchphrase “Get your kicks on Route 66”. Advertising, like the poster above, was used to draw attention to a large number of attractions and sights along Route 66. Cities and towns vied for tourism dollars from travelers passing east or west. These days, people from around the globe plan out their visits based on some of these same sites. While many will digest the entire route in one trip, we rely on breaking it into digestible sections. By focusing on specific cities or legs of the road, we can explore in greater detail. So far, we have successfully navigated from Chicago to Amarillo.

Route 66 Museum in Lebanon

Places like the Route 66 Museum in Lebanon serve as depositories for the memories of times gone by. They also help educate the next generation about the value of a classic American road trip. Whether you are planning your own excursion along Route 66 or any of the other great American highways, be sure to keep the spirit of those early travelers in mind. Be prepared for the unexpected and save some time for exploring the stops that aren’t always found on maps. It’s a good way to get to know the locals and make some amazing memories at the same time.

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Day Trip Destination

The Amtrak has a route that runs through Kansas City, our hometown. Looking at the possible destinations, Hermann seemed a logical choice. This Missouri town is steeped in the German tradition. Our timing would allow for a visit during their annual Oktoberfest. An early morning start had us waiting in anticipation for the start of our trip. Before long, we made our way to the cars and found ourselves all alone in the business class section. We quickly determined that it was a worthwhile upgrade that allowed us more room to explore. About four hours later, our Amtrak escape pulled into the station in Hermann.

Food First

After the long ride, we had two things on our minds. The first was to really stretch our legs, which came immediately upon stepping off the train. Our Amtrak escape had deposited just a block off of the main drag through town. This made for an extremely convenient starting point. Having visited Hermann in the past, we already had a firm grasp on the lay of the land. Just a short stroll away, we discovered our lunch destination. While this town is filled with plenty of German cuisines, we were anxious to sample a newer restaurant named Doxie Slush. The unique combination of frozen cocktails and chef-inspired dishes worked its wonder on us. By the time we left the restaurant, we were ready to do some major exploring.

Exploring Hermann

Hermann, Missouri is certainly an out-of-the-ordinary experience. It may not be a huge town, but it is packed with fun and friendly people. We followed the steady stream of visitors who were checking out the local shops. While our ability to carry a lot was limited by our mode of transportation, we still like to spread tourism dollars whenever possible. Hermann has some cute boutique-style shops that offer a wide range of products, so we had no problem finding a few new treasures. As we stepped out of one shop, we found this pair waiting on a bench. The warm fall day was perfect for sharing a snack (or a selfie) with a friend.

Hermann Heritage

I had researched the town and determined a path that allowed for maximum pleasure in our five-hour window. The Amtrak schedule can be a little loose, so it is wise to return to the station on time. Even with these limitations, we found plenty of time to enjoy the local history museum. We enjoy finding places like this because it gives us some additional background on the destination we are visiting. This particular museum is filled with stories of the German heritage that permeates the community.

Oktoberfest to Remember

Our Amtrak escape was designed to happen during Oktoberfest for a reason. In the past, this annual event would find the town swarming with visitors. Any plans for an overnight stay required months of advance preparation. Since this was just a day trip, we were confident that the traffic would be more manageable. Little did we realize just how much of a damper the pandemic would put on the celebration. Even though the restrictions had not completely been implemented, the growing concern had obviously kept droves of potential partiers away.

The Best and Wurst

With the thinner crowds, it allowed us more room to roam. Our past visits have always fallen outside of the town’s festivals. Even an average summer weekend can draw astonishing crowds. While Hermann was abuzz with festival activity, we realized that it was still an off-year. This meant that we almost had run of the place, and made popping in and out of various shops fairly simple. Two of the main draws are the readily available wines and German cuisine. Even though the departure hour was approaching, we still had plenty of time to do some sampling of the wine and wurst available for purchasing. Of course, not having a car limited the amount of product we could carry home.

Down by the Station

Time was winding down, so we started back to the Amtrak station. Having it so close to downtown is very convenient. I had downloaded an app on my phone that allowed me to see how the train was doing on its schedule. Obviously, it had run into delays at another station, so we found ourselves with a little extra time on our hands. Just behind the station is a riverside park, so we wandered over for a look-see. It was a nice diversion from just standing around with the others and since we had business class seating, we knew there would be no rush on our seats.

Parting Ways

Watching as the day waned, we thought back to the time we had spent in Hermann. The fall day was turning toward evening and the chill air began to descend. Our hope had been that we would see the beauty of the changing seasons, but it seemed to be lagging this year. Still, here and there we would spot some colors poking through and we knew the chillier evenings were fast approaching. We are betting that this town is beautiful when the fall colors are in their prime.

Amtrak Escape

Even before we heard the whistle of the approaching train, the crowd began working their way toward the gate. It was apparent that others were using the Amtrak app, as well. We saw no reason to rush since the train wouldn’t be leaving until everyone was on board. Sure enough, once we climbed back aboard, we found plenty of open seating in our car. There were a few others, which we had picked up about halfway across the state. We listened to their stories, as the train lurched down the tracks. The final portion of our ride was spent in solitude, just watching the passing lights and darkening landscape beyond the windows. Our inaugural Amtrak escape went swimmingly, so who knows what the future will hold.

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Glory Days

Cruising along Route 66 will definitely bring a feeling of nostalgia. While newer businesses and stops continue to be developed (Check out Uranus, Missouri), it is the long-standing sites that really grab our attention. Way back in 1950, Glenn Wrinkle launched Wrink’s Market. Sitting along the edge of Lebanon, it served as a restocking stop for travelers along this stretch of the Missouri Mother Road. His friendly demeanor made travelers and locals feel welcome in the store. His fresh-made sandwiches were popular with many, including radio host Paul Harvey. Glenn kept the store running until his death in 2005.

The Vintage Cowgirl

This sudden change shuttered the doors and could have signaled a permanent death. Glenn’s son Terry Wrinkle attempted to reopen the store, but the downturned economy of 2008 forced it to reclose after only two years. It appeared that Wrink’s Market would fade away like so many other Route 66 iconic stops. Low and behold, the founder’s granddaughter, Katie Hapner, reinvented the market in 2017. While it carries the name “The Vintage Cowgirl”, it still holds the same atmosphere as the olden days. Katie and her stepsister, Sarah, welcome visitors looking for a break from the road. Following in her grandfather’s footsteps, we found her busy assembling sandwiches for hungry travelers. It’s inspiring to see that others are working to bring the past into the future.

Tried and True

Sharing a parking lot with Wrink’s Market is Taylor’s Dairy Joy. Once again, we found that this business has stood the test of time on Route 66. With the lunch hour fast approaching, we decided it was the perfect place to grab some food. Taylor’s has a lot of similarities to dozens of roadside eateries found along the Mother Road. Stepping through the door, we found a hand-written menu filled with easily recognizable dishes. A couple of cheeseburgers sounded good and we decided to split some fries and onion rings. This simple, but filling meal was an obvious hit with the locals, as well.  Finding a seat in the dining room, we noticed the wall mural (at the top of this page) had an odd similarity to something out of a “Close Encounters” movie.

Getting Our Sweet Desserts

Here is where we have to open up a little about our choice for lunch. Sure it’s a Route 66 iconic stop, but it was the word ‘Dairy” in the name that sealed it for us. Let’s be honest, it’s hard for us to pass up a chance to sample some local ice cream no matter where we wander. I mean, we have tasted frozen treats all across North America, including Quebec City in Canada. Taylor’s Dairy Joy offers a variety of soft-serve options, from cones to amazing sundaes. We were not afraid to tackle some of their most impressive creations. We ordered a Chocolate-covered Cherry Sundae and a Turtle Sundae to make sure we had a wide range of flavors. Both ended up being delicious but extremely filling. It became apparent that there would need to be some major walking in our future.

Standing the Test of Time

Route 66 draws thousands of visitors because it reminds us of our past. Seeing all of the unique business designs is entertaining and enlightening. The tried and true methods applied to diverting drivers from the road have been encapsulated in much of the mainstream advertising approach. Shock and awe were common occurrences that would cause travelers to pull over so they could see it for themselves. These days, many of the visual extremes have faded or crumbled under the weight of neglect. We have seen a recent surge in the desire to bring many of the notable iconic sights back to life. We certainly hope this happens and we can preserve these familiar landmarks for future generations.

Plan Your Adventure

When the interstates were introduced, many didn’t realize just how negative of an impact it would be for some towns and cities. The steady stream of travelers moved from the byways to the highways. While some smaller towns have shriveled and died, places like Lebanon, Missouri have survived the test of time. By embracing their Route 66 history, they are helping pique the interest of a new generation of road warriors. When we found out about their newest display, we just had to get involved. It was an appropriate gesture to lock our love to Route 66. After all, we have had so many wonderful experiences along the Mother Road. When was your last Route 66 road trip?

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Lay of the Land

After a 4-hour Amtrak journey, we were ready to stretch our legs. Stepping out of the train, we were greeted by the sight of brick buildings lining the main drag through downtown. With this being a pandemic year, the atmosphere was a little off from the past. Oktoberfest is the largest annual festival held in Hermann. It draws thousands of visitors eager to sample the flavors of German culture. Toss in some wine and wurst, and you have the makings of a real German celebration. 2020 saw a slightly different sight, as the usually packed sidewalks were more manageable for social distancing.

Taking It All In

While our lunch plans had been set before our arrival, we still wanted to check out the local food scene. A sign advertising free samples are not to be passed up. The Hermann Wurst Haus is definitely the kind of place that evokes feelings of an authentic German shop. Stepping across the threshold, we were greeted by the sight of an amazing meat counter. All around us we saw bratwursts and sausages on display. The urge to stock up had us kicking ourselves for not bringing a cooler. This is definitely a “must-have” for future visits.

Quaintness Found

Our train home would not be leaving until early evening, so that gave us a few hours to explore the town. Hermann is filled with a nice selection of boutique-style shops. As we wandered along, we found spaces filled with garden art, apparel, home decorations, and a plethora of antique stores. Hermann is easy to navigate on foot and we enjoyed the building artwork that we spotted along our walk.

Vine-Covered Hills

In the early days of Hermann, the hillsides and town’s empty lots were covered with grapevines. During the 1800s, they were considered one of the largest producers of wine in the world. Unfortunately, prohibition dealt an ugly blow to the town. Not only were the wineries silenced, but even the grapevines were also torn out of the soil. As we wandered around town, we tried to imagine how disheartening it must have been for the townspeople. These days the local wineries are working hard to rebuild their status in the wine-making world.

Hometown Heritage

Down on the main tourist path, we happened upon Hermannhof Winery. This space is one of the early buildings in Hermann. This tourism town is filled with sites that are on the National Register of Historic Places. This particular winery was built in 1852, in what was the French section of the city, and sits above 10 huge stone cellars. This allowed Hermannhof to become a major storage facility for not just their wines, but some of the smaller winemakers around the town. They have also expanded to include a restaurant, inn, distillery, and a living history farm. Their selection of wine and wurst choices make it easy to assemble an impromptu picnic in the countryside.

Distinct Flavors

These days the winery produces about 15,000 cases per year. The wines are fermented in white oak barrels from France and Missouri. Their attention to detail has been rewarded with accolades from their peers worldwide. We stepped in for a wine tasting, which is all the rage during Oktoberfest. Being lovers of white wines, we were excited to see they offer Vignoles. This is our favorite variety at our favorite KC metro winery. At the end of our tasting, we picked out a couple of varieties to take home.

Wine and Wurst in Hermann, Missouri

In the past, we have made short stops in Hermann, Missouri. Most of these have been to stretch our legs during a trip from point A to point B. This was our first visit that had this German heritage town as our main destination. We wanted to see just how much of an adventure it would make, and we discovered that a day trip limited our ability to explore. While it is possible to see the highlights of such a visit, we believe an overnight stay would allow us to get a better feel for the town’s flavors and personality. It was obvious to us that this would not be our last visit to Hermann, Missouri.

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Road from Rolla

During the Dust Bowl days, many would follow this path west to California. By the late 1950s, interstate highways were sounding a death knell for these types of leisurely travel corridors. These days, many scurry down the highway rushing to their destination. It seems like fewer and fewer of us take the time to enjoy the journey. Maybe the current conditions call for us to rethink our idea of the perfect vacation. A Route 66 road trip is a good way to maintain social distancing and still explore the countryside.

Route 66 Road Trip

While large swaths of the Mother Road vanished with the installation of the interstates, travelers can still find plenty of the original path. Many of the sights along the route carry fantastic names that just beckon to be seen. On a stretch between Uranus and Rolla we discovered Devil’s Elbow Bridge. Offering a pass across the Big Piney River, the views of the surrounding cliffs are inspiring. We even had an opportunity to watch a local fisherman try his luck.

Stonehenge, Missouri?

A sight that we would have never expected to find in the middle of Missouri is a Stonehenge replica. When we saw it listed  in Rolla attractions, we knew a few minutes had to be carved out in our itinerary. After all, you don’t pass by one of these everyday. This unusual attraction is located on the campus of the Missouri University of Science and Technology. It is half-scale of the original, and only represents a partial reconstruction. Built out of granite, the stones were cut and carved using high pressure water jets. The original would have taken many years to complete, where this one was carved in a month. It is truly a testament to technology.

Fun Diversion

Since we were beating around Rolla looking for diversions, we decided to head downtown. This Midwest town embraces its Route 66 heritage. Those looking to “get their kicks” will find some interesting eateries and fun shops to explore. After some local shopping, we were ready to cool down with a refreshing treat. We located an old-fashioned soda fountain and popped in for a look-see. We could tell from the steady stream of customers that this place was a local hit.

Cooling Off

What began as a stop for a cone turned into a real adventure. You probably have noticed that we love ice cream, so it’s no surprise to see us pick a scoop shop. Over the years, we have found some amazing creamy creations. Soda & Scoops was ready to raise the bar with their own unique concoctions. Our choice was a homage to Independence Day named “Baby You’re A Firework”. It started with a strawberry cheesecake shake and took off from there. The addition of vanilla frosting, sprinkles, whipped cream and a sucker really got it going. Oh, and let’s just shove a Bomb Pop in for good measure. Yeah, it was freaking awesome!

Slow Death

When they added I-44 to Missouri, much of it fell right on top of the Route 66 corridor. These days, the original path is almost like a frontage road running parallel to the interstate. As we traversed it, we spotted signs of the glory days. Many of the gas stations, motels, and motor courts have been abandoned. Those that remain are staying alive by multi-tasking their business plans. Often you will find a combination, fuel stop, antique store, and eatery wrapped into one location. In almost all cases, they wear the badge of Route 66 with pride.

Set Your Sights on Route 66

The format of vacationing certainly changed quickly in 2020. Almost overnight, the world looked differently at the notion of large gatherings on beaches or at events. The changes affected us, as well, but mostly through the shuttering of museums and other public spaces. Our style of trips revolve around in-depth looks at the stories behind a cities growth. The interaction we have with others will usually be restricted to just a few people at a time. That made us feel more comfortable about the idea of exploring during a pandemic. A Route 66 road trip is a good way to get back out in the world, while still limiting your exposure to others. Aren’t you ready to hit the road?

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River Highway

Way back in 1837, a company was established to help settle areas in the west. In Philadelphia, the German Settlement Society had a goal to perpetuate the German culture in America. An influx of farmers, artisans, and professionals was assembling in the east and they desired land that they could sculpt as their own. George Frederick Bayer dreamed of finding a location where German immigrants could live in partial isolation in the “far west”. The hope was that they could retain their historic customs and language in this new colony. 11,000 acres of government land was secured and preparations were made for the journey.

Taming the Wilderness

The memories of Germany were still fresh in their minds, as the first seventeen settlers made their way to Gasconade County in the Fall of 1837. Traveling by boat, they made their way to St. Louis, Missouri. Due to an unexpected illness, George Bayer was unable to accompany this first group. Others followed but decided to spend the winter in St. Louis. Those first settlers were expecting to find a land of “milk and honey”, but instead discovered a rugged wilderness. Far from other settlements, they had certainly found the isolation that they had been promised. Disillusionment set in as they began the task of clearing the heavily wooded hills and taming the wilderness.

Life’s Diversions

Bayer and his family arrived in the Spring of 1838 and found an upset of settlers. His list of responsibilities ranged from surveying the land to overseeing construction and supply of provisions, among other things. The list may have been far too much for one individual to handle, and letters began pouring into the company office back in Philadelphia. Before long, hundreds more began arriving to aid in the town’s development. Streets were laid out in accordance with plans that had previously been drawn. As they cleared the land, they discovered tangles of wild grapes covering the hillsides.

Retaining Their Heritage

Their homeland of Germany has a long-established wine-making history that dates back to ancient Roman times. The rolling hills south of the Missouri River have strange similarities to lands along the Rhine River. Taking their cue from nature, the German immigrants began planting hybrid varieties of grapes. Their task of taming the wilderness was aided by falling back on familiar tasks. The earliest wines were a failure, as far as quality, but they quickly learned from their mistakes. By 1843, wine-making in Hermann was beginning to blossom. The first Weinfest was held in 1848 and has continued to the present and renamed Oktoberfest.

German Heritage

As more immigrants arrived in Hermann, they increased the breadth of wine-making knowledge. By studying the soils, local George Husmann developed hybrid grapes that could handle the hot summers and freezing winters of Missouri. This inventiveness came to the rescue of the France wine-makers during an aphid infestation during the 1860s. Shipping millions of phylloxera-resistant rootstocks to France, they helped their overseas wine-making compatriots. Husmann would later move to California and become one of the founders of the Napa Valley wine industry.

Passing on Tradition

By the end of the 1800s, Hermann had grown to become one of the largest wine-producing regions in the world. As their popularity grew, it became apparent that they could not remain isolated from the rest of the country. Passing along the traditions had included remaining true to the German language, but this would prove to create difficulties when dealing with customers outside of the town. Over time, it became necessary to teach dual languages, as the population began to embrace English. Still, the people of Hermann have held on to many of their traditions.

Holding on to the Past

Like many places in America, Hermann was devastated by Prohibition. Not only were hundreds of barrels destroyed, but the grapevines were uprooted to prevent future crops. When you pile on the anti-German sentiment, that came with World War I, it is a wonder that the city survived. Hermann would be pushed into the Great Depression years before the rest of the country. It would be 1965 before wine-making would return to this German town. Breaking back into the market was like taming the wilderness all over again.

Explore Hermann’s Heritage

Hermann, Missouri has found a way to recapture its magic. These days it intertwines its history with the future. The town is a mixture of boutique shops, antique stores, restaurants, and wineries. While many visitors descend on this hillside town every year, the distinct history of the town escapes those who neglect to investigate in depth. We would highly recommend a stop at the Hermann History Museum to learn more about the unique past and the people who brought it to life. It’s an interesting dive into German culture.

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Another World

Driving along the route, it would be nearly impossible to miss this place. Even traffic on the nearby interstate is sure to spot the huge sign screaming for attention. Once you get nearby, you are already aware that the owner is attempting to attract visitors. For us, it is part of the draw of the Mother Road. All along the way, Route 66 has been known for its unique sights and unusual attractions. In its early days, these were designed to capture attention and get travelers to take a break from the road. These days the same still applies, except that many of the older sites have become abandoned. We were happy to check out Uranus since it was a new stop attempting to capture the spirit of the tourist traps of old.

Strangely Familiar

Stepping out of our car, we found ourselves trying to take it all in. Dinosaur statues competed with selfie spots. If you are desiring a hodge-podge of businesses this is certainly a place to find them. The signage called out a tattoo shop, escape rooms, ax-throwing, and outdoor outfitters to name a few.  On top of that, there is a collection of novelty décor that would appeal to any selfie starved traveler. This place is the perfect place to snap a few one-of-a-kind memories.

Tourist Trap Treasures

Now we weren’t about to let this opportunity pass us by, especially when we were in the company of the World’s Largest Belt Buckle. It hadn’t been that long ago that we had attempted to break some records ourselves, during a visit to Gatlinburg. Of course, we may have fallen short, but here we could stand in close proximity to one.

Sideshow Seduction

Our schedule did not include time for visits to the bulk of the small shops, but we did have enough for the Circus Sideshow Museum. This interesting collection of freaky exhibits hearkened back to the days of the traveling circuses. We are both old enough to remember walking along the midway and hearing the barkers call out to the crowd. Their promises of fantastic creatures and unbelievable oddities enticed us inside for a closer look. In Uranus, we were able to relive these childhood days. Check out this article to see some of the unusual specimens.

Fudge Factory

At the far end of the strip, we found the main store for souvenirs. We knew that it was a must-see since we had heard so much about it. Besides, traveling along Route 66 requires a certain amount of snacks to keep up your strength. The bright colors of the building were definitely designed to attract attention and it worked. While traveler traffic was lower during this pandemic, those that did stop were checking out the store, as well.

Juvenile Jokes On Demand

Up until now, the juvenile jokes had just been assumed. Stepping into the Uranus Fudge factory brought them front and center. Inside, it was reminiscent of many of the Stuckey’s style stops we saw in our younger days. The mixed bag of merchandise ran the gambit from collector’s items to novelty gag gifts. The bright color scheme continued on the inside and the place is packed with eye candy. A large candy counter contained the staff members dishing out the various flavors of fudge. An assortment of t-shirts, car tags, posters, and signs displayed the juvenile jokes that come with the name Uranus. This place certainly takes a light-hearted approach at souvenir sales.

Mixed Bag

While our shopping desires were pretty limited at the Uranus General Store, it was still quite interesting to see all of the artifacts they had scattered around the store. One must really pay attention if you want to see the majority. It seems they have taken the idea of “Where’s Waldo” to heart, as they tuck unique displays in every nook and cranny. With such a wide range of merchandise available, there were a lot of temptations to purchase unnecessary items.

Different Times

Being so close to the Ozarks, we found quite a few items and displays that were throwbacks from our youth. While the majority of the kitschy items were interesting to see, we found ourselves easily able to overcome the temptation to buy. Then there was the assortment of candies. Oh you know that is where our strength wavered. As we walked down row after row of bushel baskets filled with salt-water taffy, we couldn’t help but fill a bag with some assorted flavors. The fresh chocolates on display were far too tempting to pass up, so we grabbed a couple of those, as well.

Route 66 Rest Stop

With our treasures in hand, we made our way back toward our car. We were still smiling from the juvenile jokes that are so commonplace in Uranus, Missouri. One more chance to take in all of the sights that line the landscape, before heading back out onto the Mother Road. This unusual stop may not be decades old, but it certainly captures the spirit of Route 66. People from all over the world travel to the Midwest to experience the fun and frivolity associated with the bygone era of road trips. Maybe this pandemic will help kickstart a new generation of auto-exploration. After all, you never know what you will find when you get off the interstate.

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Carnival Vibes

Since we were needing to stretch our legs, this looked like a good place to do it. The tantalizing banners hinted of unbelievable, and possibly cringe-worthy sights. Entering the Uranus Sideshow Museum, we found that the ceiling is covered in the types of banners that would have been commonplace in the early 1900s. The majority of these types of displays would have been associated with traveling circuses, like Barnum and Bailey. There was a time when there were also permanent displays, which were often referred to as ‘dime museums’.

Animal Acts Abound

Often the exhibits featured animal acts. Showing off trained animals was an inexpensive form of entertainment that would have offered higher profitability for the owner. After all, the costs would have been food, housing, and the trainer. These shows were popular with crowds of gawkers who piled in to see them perform. Freak shows are not an American invention. As early as the 17th century there were ‘monster shows’ traveling across the European continent. Many of these concentrated on human abnormalities like dwarfism.

Local Legend

Some of the attractions that I vaguely remember focused more attention on animal deformities. More than a few of the exhibits were obvious taxidermy experiments where the union of two species was concocted. Here is a modern example of this where they have crafted a mix of monkey and fish. Like the ones of old, it plays off of the intrigue of impossibility. It also includes the mystery of how such a possibility could exist. This scenario is covered by the explanation of a scientific experiment gone wrong. Doesn’t that sound a lot like the majority of the sci-fi flicks from the 1950s?

Twin-Headed Oddities

Another common sighting at these types of attractions has to do with two-headed abnormalities. Whether it was human or animal, these were commonplace at the old carnival shows. I remember seeing two-headed calves and the Uranus Sideshow Museum has a two-headed turtle swimming around a tank. In the early 1800s, there was a famous pair of Siamese twins who toured all through Europe. It was estimated that over 100,000 people came to see them in just a span of seven months. It was obvious that people were intrigued by these types of sights.

Mermaid Mystery

Another popular exhibit to capture the attention of a crowd was the hopes of seeing a true-to-life mermaid. Obviously, this would have been impossible, but it still drew plenty of people into the show. As you can see above, these require the skill of a taxidermist to fashion the mythical creature. They have a variety of versions on display at the museum, and it was interesting to see the skill levels of the different tradespeople. While all were aiming for the same final product, they each put their own unique spin on it.

Uranus Sideshow Museum Live Action

As we were nearing the completion of our visit, a staff member notified us that there was a show preparing to begin. There was only one other couple there at that point, but we all made our way to the stage area. The staff member introduced herself as the ‘tattooed lady’ and showed off some of her body tapestries to the ‘crowd’. Then she proceeded to do a few corny magic tricks, before moving to the main event.

Sparking Scene

Her feature performance is sword-swallowing. We’ve probably all seen it done, whether in person or on television. At the Uranus Sideshow Museum, we found that she adds a little extra zest. There are plenty of people who can perform sword-swallowing, but how many times do you find such an electrifying performance? This was definitely something we didn’t expect and it was met with a round of applause. I would have said a standing ovation, but there were no chairs for us to start from a seated position.

Uranus Sideshow Museum

While many of the displays at the Uranus Sideshow Museum are a bit hokey, they are all G-rated and can be viewed by all ages. Nothing will jump out at you and the views of living creatures are pretty rare. (I can only recall the turtle.) Admission was reasonable at $6.00 per adult and the length of visits depends on how in-depth you study the displays. For those who are looking for an unusual stop along a mid-Missouri road trip, this is one you won’t soon forget.

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Slushy Sips

Where we would usually have a road trip, this time we substituted the Amtrak. After a four hour trip, we were definitely in the mood for a good meal. Some earlier reconnaissance had uncovered an interesting option named Doxie Slush. The first thing that had caught my attention was their wide range of frozen cocktails. These are quite popular in New Orleans, and we have even found a place in Kansas City that offers them. Finding a place that offers adult beverages isn’t difficult in Hermann, but this place had some other tasty treasures, as well.

Summer Vibes

While the town was certainly popular, the crowds were thinner due to the pandemic. We located an open table and proceeded to scan the menu. Our server stopped by to welcome us and walk us through the various options. Doxie Slush offers a flight of 3 of their slushies, so we just had to narrow down our selections. That is harder than it would appear because they have so many amazing flavors. Finally, we asked our server to surprise us. You can imagine our delight when he delivered a trio of summertime treats. From left to right we had; Melon Mojito, Blue Hawaiian, and Strawberry Hibiscus Frosé. Each brought a sweet taste that reminds us of the summer days that had recently ended.

Flavors of Fall

While the sips of the summer drinks brought delicious memories, the second flight welcomed the rich tastes of Fall. Pumpkin Spice Old-Fashioned, Caribbean Coffee, and Apple Dolce Martini all supplied a bounty of flavor that reminded us that the upcoming holiday season was just around the corner. Each of our cocktails had a nice little kick, so we were glad that our travels were in the hands of the railroad. In the meantime, we were getting ourselves in the Oktoberfest spirit in anticipation of exploring the town after lunch.

Tasty Treasures

Now before you get the idea that Doxie Slush is just another bar, we should tell you that we picked this location because of their tantalizing food menu. We discovered that owner Nicholas Renfrow is a New York City trained chef, who has brought his tropical experiences to Hermann. This is not the place to grab a plain hamburger or a chicken salad sandwich. Instead, they offer up unique flavors like their Manchego Beignets. These deep-fried crispy bites of heaven incorporate the tangy taste of Spanish cheese, that comes from sheep’s milk. What a perfect appetizer and they tasted amazing with our craft cocktails.

Not Your Average Burger

Now I said they don’t serve up plain hamburgers, but you will find an Island Burger on the menu. Nick’s twist on this American dish begins with a base of a certified Angus beef patty. Then he lets loose a torrent of flavors that come crashing through in every bite. The grilled pineapple and Vidalia onion strings complimented the Pepperjack cheese and smoked paprika mayo. Each bite was a combination of tastes that had me coming back over and over until there was no more. This burger is so amazing that I nearly forgot about the Sea Salt Fries that accompany it.

Flavors of the Sea

Crystal had chosen to begin her meal with the Fish n’ Chips. (We split both entrees, so we could sample more flavors.) Even such standard bar fare as this is kicked up to another level. We were expecting Cod filets, but Nick knows that crispy wild-caught mahi-mahi makes this dish extra special. The crispy battered bites melted in our mouths and we once again neglected the bed of sea salt fries. Doxie Slush serves up some lemon slices on the side for flavor, but the real star condiment is their dill-caper tartar sauce. They should bottle that stuff so that we can try to mimic this dish at home.

More Tasty Treasures

You can imagine how stuffed we were by the time we finished our meal at Doxie Slush. What we found to be the hardest task was narrowing down our food choices from their tempting menu. We know that another visit (or three) will be required to really explore the various flavors. Leaving without testing the Pork Belly Fried Rice or Scampi Mac n’ Cheese was difficult. Then there is the Southern-Fried Lobster Bucket that is packed full of tempting tastes. We told you this place is unlike any other in town. It looks like they are going to see a lot of new visitors in the near future. Bon Apetit!

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A Life of Art

Lowell’s life experiences affected every aspect of his art. While he was only a small child during the 1930s, it was this period that he longed for the most. To him, they seemed to be simpler times with different values. People were actually neighbors and knew those who lived nearby. Life was more manual, as most people had gardens, and canned their own supplies for the cold seasons. Many made their own clothes or at least repaired those that they owned.

Red Oak II Resident

After World War II, Davis witnessed the changing of the guard. More people moved from rural to urban settings. Cities grew and small farms diminished in number. Small Town USA became an endangered species. This change has continued into the present day, and the landscape is dotted with ghost towns. The construction of Red Oak II began in the late 1980s and was designed to capture a moment in time.

Route 66 Vicinity

Lowell’s choice for Red Oak II put it just a couple of miles from the path of Route 66. This classic “Mother Road” was one of the original highways to cross large sections of the United States. Like small-town life, the rural highways would fall victim to progress and be replaced with interstates. Davis pays homage to the route with the placement of a 1920s Phillips 66 Filling Station that he discovered in Avilla, Missouri. In fact, most of the buildings were moved from other small towns to their new home at Red Oak II.

An Artful Life

Davis kicked his art career into high gear in the 1970s. He hesitated to believe anyone would be interested in his style since it was based on those simpler times. Something about his rural depictions struck a chord with mainstream America. Before long, his pieces were in high demand. I remember my earliest introduction to his work from visits to the Ozarks. I, like many of his fans, found his pieces helped recall memories of their youths or even a lifestyle they never had an opportunity to experience firsthand.

Watchful Eyes

As we explored Red Oak II, we found that we were not alone. In front of Lowell’s house, we spotted these two cats doing some exploring of their own. During his later years, Lowell would have been found sitting on the porch enjoying the views of his creation. It was not unusual for him to engage with visitors, as he found these conversations to be a great way to connect with the world beyond his driveway. The creation of his “ghost town” certainly provided plenty of opportunities for conversations, as it has drawn in visitors from all around the world.

Down Home Aura

Taking time to visit Red Oak II created a change in our pace. Since our goal is to provide as many trip options as we can, our timetable is usually running at an increased rate. On this particular trip, we were actually enjoying a vacation, but you know I wasn’t going to pass up an opportunity to share it with others. While visiting, we saw others also scoping out the site. Some preferred to just drive through along the circular route. There is ample parking for those who want to see things closer up and explore on foot. We felt that choosing to get out of the car offered a more personal feel to our visit.

Preserving History

The loop through Red Oak II is about a half-mile long of level gravel drive. It makes for an easy excursion, which offers up-close views of the various buildings and sculptures. We didn’t keep track, but I would estimate there are around two-dozen structures to see. Some are private property but are clearly marked as such. As we wandered around, the slower pace of country living began to return to us. During my youth, I would spend my summers about 50 miles from this site. Of course, it barely existed back then, so I would only see Lowell’s creations during visits to stores in towns around the region.

Outdoor Art

The idea that someone would assemble an entire town in the middle of nowhere is quite peculiar. Seeing all of these buildings makes you wonder what would inspire this eccentric decision. It is when you see Lowell’s art scattered among the spaces that you begin to understand. His style was one that drew from simpler times and a simpler life. Viewing his pieces evokes a feeling of small-town life. The messages are easily understood, but stand the test of time. It is an art that can appeal to the masses since it draws on the basic principles of everyday life.

Telling the Truth

Of course, Davis would also pepper in his own unique brand of humor. So many of his pieces bring a smile to the heart, as they are easy to relate to on a personal level. He can hide the humor as a simple testament in a piece that focuses on the thieving habit of crows. Everyone who sees it quickly understands his meaning, but each reaches the conclusion on their own level. Then as we moved down the way, we came upon a piece titled “Woman’s Work” that shows he could hit you over the head with his humor. Throughout his career, his art replicated real life.

Eclectic Pieces

While we were exploring Red Oak II, we found that the buildings were not the only pieces he brought to town. Scattered around the open spaces we found some eclectic finds that were a blend of real-life and fantasy creations. An old automobile shared a small field with a plane of his creation. Joining the pair is an old tractor that has become home to another one of his unusual sculptures. It seems that Davis was versed in creativity in a variety of mediums.

Keeping the Law

We found that not only did he pepper his sculptures with humor, but he found ways to include it in some of the structures, as well. We loved this old Marshall’s Office, and could even spot some of the necessary hardware that is stored inside. When we turned around, we spotted what was clearly an old jailhouse. Davis had taken the liberty of labeling it as a child daycare center. We were sure there are plenty of parents, like us, who find humor in this little inside joke.

New Friends at Red Oak II

We invite you to take the opportunity to slow your pace at Red Oak II. The homey life exudes from this place and you expect to see freshly baked pies sitting on the windowsills of the houses that dot the landscape. A visit to this unique attraction is a great addition to a Route 66 trip or even a visit to nearby Carthage, Missouri. We know you won’t find another place quite like this one, and we hope you appreciate it as much as we did. Who knows, you might even make some new friends during your visit. Travel safely!

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Miles of Nature

Dogwood Canyon is a little over 30 minutes southwest of Branson, Missouri. That makes it an easy day trip for those staying at one of the nearby resorts. Upon arriving, we found that the 10,000-acre park has tons of available parking. Our plan was to spend an extended amount of time at the park so that we could really explore. Single-day tickets are $15 per adult, and we decided to add bike rentals, which was an additional $15 each. At admissions, guests are supplied with color-coded wristbands that help staff recognize what you have purchased.

Getting Around Dogwood Canyon

They offer a variety of bike options, including plenty for the little tikes. The wide paths are designed to handle the combination of biker and hiker traffic. During our visit, it was a well-balanced split between walkers and riders. Little Indian Creek winds through the park and guests will cross the water multiple times during their trip. They also have trams running that utilize their own pathway, but there are spots where the paths combine and cross.

Bridging the Gap

We found that Dogwood Canyon has a very relaxed atmosphere. With so much to see, we often found ourselves pulling over to take it in. This covered bridge is designed for foot traffic, so bikers have to dismount and push their cycles to the other side. Along the way, we noticed that the tram path cut through the creek. When one of the trams passed by, it kicked up a nice splash that was entertaining for riders and viewers alike.

Bluff-side Views

The fact that this park is built inside of a canyon makes it easy to find amazing views. Besides the over 6 miles of paved paths, there are another 9 miles of hiking paths. This lets visitors design their own unique visit. A few spots allow guests to get up-close views and even some elevated perspectives of the park. Tons of shade trees are the perfect place to take a break from your hike and just enjoy the scenery.

Going to the Chapel

Most of the sights at Dogwood Canyon are focused on nature. We did find this cute little chapel just a short way down the path. A short break from our bikes was needed to check out the interior. The architect who designed this space was able to add another level of awesome by framing a nearby waterfall in the view you have down the main aisle. We paused for a few minutes to take in the sheer beauty of this place, before heading back to the main trail.

Scenic Break

At the far end of Dogwood Canyon, guests will actually cross into Arkansas. A roundabout signals time to head back to the start. Before we began that leg of our journey, we decided to rest up at Wish Bowl Falls. It is a good place to enjoy some serenity, even if there are others around. A couple of nearby picnic tables offer space for groups to have a makeshift picnic.

Fish Frenzy

The reflecting pool, at Wish Bowl Falls, is filled with trout. This seemed to be quite entertaining for everyone we saw visiting the area. Nearby fish food vending machines allow guests a chance to get a closer look at the fish. I went as far as submerging our GoPro for a close-up look at the school in action. Be aware that the video is actually upside-down, but I really liked the effect. I hope you enjoy it, as well.

10,000 Acres of Exploring

It always surprises us that no matter how hard we scan the landscape, there are lots of sights we miss. Dogwood Canyon Nature Park helped us remedy our usual oversight since we had to return by the same path. On this portion of the excursion, we were able to spot some of the finer details in the park.

Dogwood Canyon Chuckwagon Dining

During the first half of our journey, we had spotted an area that featured a chuckwagon-style dining option. It was a little crowded at that point, so we decided to check it out on the return trip. After checking out the menu, we went in search of a table. Sure enough, the crowds had dispersed and we easily found seating that allowed appropriate social distancing space.

Lunch Break

We knew that we would be dining at least once during our visit, so we had scoped out the various opportunities present at Dogwood Canyon. Near the entrance, there is a sit-down restaurant that features views of a 120-foot waterfall. There is also the option of dining on a nearby outdoor patio, but both of these spots had looked to be fairly popular. This chuckwagon picnic version was perfect for our pace that day. The menu is limited to most items that are easy to eat, which is exactly what we were wanting.

Indoor Exploring

Once we completed our circuit, we returned our bikes to the shop. Now it was time to do a little exploring in the main buildings near the entrance. As you are approaching the park, the Dogwood Mill captures your attention. On the outside, a 25-foot wheel spins from the force of the passing creek. Inside the gristmill, there are a variety of exhibits showcasing the heritage of the native Osage tribes that occupied these lands.

Masking Up at Dogwood Canyon

Moving indoors meant that we needed to mask up. There are spots on the outside where masks were needed, but we found plenty of space to distance ourselves during our bike ride. After exploring the displays we popped out on a patio for a view of the park. Across the way, we spotted a large treehouse that begged to be explored.

Animal Insights

Heading across the way, we found that the treehouse was closed due to the pandemic. While we were a little bummed out about it, we knew that it would be hard to keep the spaces sanitized with roving bands of kids. We settled for a visit to the Conservation Center, which is accessible by a swinging bridge. Inside there are representatives of the animals that currently and previously inhabited this region. We made our way through the building and down some stairs. It deposited us in the gift shop, where we selected a couple of mementos to remember our visit.

Dogwood Canyon Nature Park

By the time we made our way back to our car, we had spent about 5 hours at Dogwood Canyon Nature Park. The spaces and exhibits were able to keep us engaged the entire time. We would imagine that it might be the same for others. It would be reasonable to add another hour to our time, but that would probably be the maximum for us. Of course, by riding bikes instead of walking, we shaved off significant time on our journey. You may want to keep that in mind when planning your own visit to the park.

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200 Years Under Their Belt

This museum, in Columbia, has been preserving the history of Boone County since 1924. Since this was just a chance to stretch our legs, we only had time to explore their rotating galleries. It was the fall of 2020 and they were deep into the 200-year celebration of Boone County. The name is one that we had seen a lot recently. An earlier excursion had us visiting the Boone’s Lick region around Arrow Rock. While it was originally settled by relatives of Daniel Boone, they still chose to name it in his honor.

Early Dwellings

We found it quite intriguing to see the pictures of some of the early residences and buildings in this region. We could imagine living in a community that was spread over many miles. Your closest neighbors would be spaced at a distance to allow the benefit of living off of the land. Seeing the image of the earliest construction on the Missouri State University was especially mind-blowing. To think, the sprawling campus once began with such a rural footprint.

Exploring the Space

More investigating led to the examination of this covered wagon. With our various museum visits under our belts, we easily pictured images of pioneers rolling across the prairie. We looked for markings that would tell us if this was possibly manufactured by the Mitchell Wagon Company. The history of this unique business was brought to our attention during a visit to nearby Boonville, Missouri.

Civil War Connection

It’s not unusual to find reminders of the Civil War in Midwest museums. The exhibit at the Boone County History Museum only briefly acknowledged the war. It was a sword and uniform from Union General Odon Guitar that were the showpieces on display. Gen. Guitar spent much of his war career in skirmishes with guerrilla fighters from the Confederate side. While Missouri was home to a collection of slaveowners, this was generally confined to the fertile areas along the path of the Missouri River. The state did not pick a side during the war but was mostly under Union control. The lack of decisiveness did not prohibit the citizenry from picking their own side to support.

Boone County History Museum

The “Celebrating 200 Years ” exhibit also included a variety of pieces that would have been commonplace in the 1800s and 1900s. A makeshift porch setting was the perfect perch for a statue of a rugged resident occupying himself with a dry shave. Nearby, an oversize map detailed the lands that make up Boone County. After taking in this rotating exhibit, we moved on to the next gallery.

19th Amendment

In a separate room we discovered the temporary exhibit that focuses on the fight for women’s right to vote. It is hard to imagine that even as late as 1919 women were refused this basic right. If you look back at the history of the United States, you will find that many of colonies allowed women to vote. After 1776, all of the states, except New Jersey, would adopt constitutions denying women of this right. Prior to the Civil War, a growing movement began to address the idea of correcting this inequality. While the war stifled the movement, it resumed during Reconstruction.

Winning the Vote

The 19th Amendment exhibit at Boone County History Museum focuses not just on the movement as a whole, but the actions that were taking place in Boone County. The three white dresses are the showpieces of the display. We could picture women at the turn-of-the-century marching through the street demanding suffrage. By the beginning of World War I, eight states had changed their stance on women’s voting rights. After continued defeat on a national level, it was President Wilson who urged Senate to ratify the 19th Amendment. It finally became law on August 26, 1920.

Midwest Exploring

Visits to places like the Boone County History museum are a great way to connect with the communities that dot the landscape. Even though our time was short, we learned a lot about this part of the state. Stops like this help keep our intrigue at a high level, so we are more eager to pull off when we see more places like this. It was the perfect way to get ourselves prepared for the Route 66 Road Trip that was the next portion of this journey. We’ll share that part of our trip over the next few weeks.

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Home Sweet Home

Our visit to Hannibal was a return from many years past. During our first trip, we had our children in tow, so our energies were spent corralling them. On this turn, the time would be spent refreshing ourselves on the life and times of one of America’s most well-known authors. There is no better place to start than at the beginning. A stop to the Mark Twain Boyhood Home and Museum would provide us plenty of background and dust off the cobwebs since our last visit. Samuel’s younger days were filled with illness (from being born prematurely), but this didn’t prevent him from testing his mother’s patience. While good-natured at heart, the boy was prone to mischief.

Girl Friend or Girlfriend?

Across the street from the Clemens’ home sits the house of Laura Hawkins. Samuel drew life for his literary characters from people he had met in real life. Laura was Sam’s classmate, playmate, and even childhood sweetheart. He would immortalize her as the character of Becky Thatcher in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. He would even name one of his characters in The Gilded Age by Laura’s given name. Clearly, she made a lasting impression on him.

Tight Times

Sam’s father, John Marshall Clemens, was an accomplished attorney and judge. He also happened to be a bit of a gambler, but his game of choice was investments. He began various retail business ventures, but all ended in failure. In 1846, due to financial difficulties, the Clemens family was forced to leave their home on Hill Street. A family friend, Dr. Orville Grant, offered the family a place to stay at his home across the street. Being in a tight spot, they took him up on his offer. As we toured the home, which is on the second floor of the pharmacy, we wondered how they could have all fit in this cramped space.

A Short Childhood

At the age of 11, Samuel’s father would pass away from pneumonia. With an already strained financial situation, this loss pushed them to the edge. Sam would leave school and begin a long string of various careers. Time spent as a typesetter put him in touch with the literary world, which he would visit time and again. Growing up along the river’s edge is where Twain meets his true passion. It’s not hard to imagine that a young boy wouldn’t become enamored by the riverboats plying the waters. Such was the case for Sam, who would fulfill his dream of becoming a steamboat pilot.

Where Twain Meets

After paying a fee to learn the ropes, he began his study of the Mississippi River. While the caption of one of these vessels had great responsibility, it was the pilot who commanded more esteem. To be a successful pilot, one had to become acquainted with every snag and sunken tree along the waterway. When piloting along the river, depth checks would be shouted out to the pilot. A level of “Mark Twain” meant that the water was 12 feet deep, which was a safe amount for a steamboat. Hearing this phrase was where Twain meets the pen name that he would use for many of his literary works.

Conflicting Signals

During Samuel’s youth, the country was still split between slave-holding states and free states. Living in Missouri, slavery was a norm that he grew up with. His witness to the brutality of it left him with a disdain for the unfair treatment doled out on all people of color. During our stay in Hannibal, we had an opportunity to visit the Huck Finn Freedom Center, which focuses on the plight of slaves in this region. With the guidance of director Faye Dant, we learned about the wins and losses that have been seen by the black community over the years. This eye-opening attraction helps piece together the journey that an entire race of people have made as they incorporated themselves into the heartland.

Fast-Forward in Time

Lest you think that Hannibal is solely about where Twain meets his future, there are also plenty of other things to capture the attention of visitors. Perhaps you are one of those road-warriors who wandered off of Route 66 looking for adventure. You will certainly be wanting to drop in Karlock’s Kars for a peek at his collection of classic vehicles. This eye-popping emporium is also home to a vast array of pop culture items that we immediately recognized from our youth. We are betting a visit here will open the floodgates of nostalgia for many of you. Of course, if you have your kids (or grandkids) in tow, there may be a lot of explaining to them about the significance of the pieces.

Historic Sights

While the downtown is filled with memories of where Twain meets his now-famous characters, there are some other sites worth checking out around town. To get a bird’s eye view of Hannibal, we journeyed up to Lover’s Leap. From that vantage point, visitors can watch the Mississippi River roll by on its way to the Gulf. The Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse is another great place to get some great views. While you are still on the Twain Trail, be sure to check out some of the hidden spots where his characters came to life. The Old Baptist Cemetery will have you picturing Tom Sawyer skulking around the gravestones.

Where Twain Meets Eats

All of this exploring certainly left us with an appetite. Fortunately, Hannibal is filled with plenty of edible options. During our visit, we enjoyed a meal at the town’s oldest restaurant, as well as a couple of more recent additions. Your taste buds are sure to be pleased with the variety of cuisine choices that can be found. All of the places we dined at were within easy walking distance of the main city’s attractions. There were plenty of other places to dine, but you know we can only eat so many times a day.

Cast of Characters

Exploring downtown Hannibal was like a walk back in time. The spirit of the characters from Twain’s stories still resides in the buildings and streets of this river town. While the days of Samuel’s youth are long gone, it is easy to see how the rolling Mississippi would certainly capture the imagination of the boy. Perhaps the next great American author is awash in the imagination of childhood, even as we write this article.

Get To Know Twain’s Hannibal

Hannibal, Missouri is filled with the memories of the characters brought to life by Mark Twain. Almost every building has some connection with his stories, so it was easy to completely immerse ourselves in this past. It certainly took us back to our younger days and gave us moments to pause in childhood play. We hope that you have an opportunity to visit this town to walk the paths that were trodden by Samuel Clemens and his band of childhood friends. Who knows, you may even want to take a turn at whitewashing Tom’s fence.

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Mark Twain Dinette

Driving into Hannibal from the north, one of our first views of downtown included a huge spinning mug. This iconic sign signals the presence of one of the oldest restaurants in town. Since 1942, Mark Twain Dinette has been serving locals and travelers alike. They are a member of the Maid-Rite family, which got its start back in 1926. Their specialty has been loose meat sandwiches, which were developed by a butcher named Fred Angell. Of course, each restaurant puts it’s own spin on the line and usually includes a few extras to boot.

River Town Tastes

The Mark Twain Dinette stands out from local competition with the addition of frosty mugs of homemade root beer. Man, it really hit the spot on a hot summer day. It was also the perfect accompaniment for our meals. We would rank the Dinette as a semi-fast food joint. Diners enjoy table service, but the menu is designed to get the meals to diners quickly. For those on the run, they also have car-side service outside. One visit is not nearly enough to really explore their vast menu. We hope to stop in again and check out their version of the “Horseshoe”. (This was a dish we discovered in Springfield, Illinois)

Due Amici Pizzeria

No matter where we are exploring, a slice of pizza always sounds good. As we were checking out the downtown shops, we spotted this hole-in-the-wall restaurant. Seeing that it was approaching lunch time, Due Amici Pizzeria sounded like the perfect fit. Stepping through the door, we found a lot of gangster-era décor. It was obvious that this was one of the newer restaurants in town, so we decided it would make a good contrast to our visit to the Dinette.

Pizza Gangster Style

The menu at Due Amici is pretty simple, as all pizzerias should be. Since we both love pepperoni, the Frank “The Enforcer” Nitti was the perfect choice. They describe it as “Tommy Gun rounds of pepperoni” and we would have to agree. While we waited for our pie to bake, we checked out some of the photos that hung around the joint. We know that the Midwest was a haven for many of the gangsters of the 1920s. We have even stayed in a hotel used as a hideout by Al Capone. We just didn’t realize that Hannibal had its own dealings with the mob, but we can understand that they were probably wanting some river town tastes for themselves.

Wayne BBQ

No self-respecting Kansas Citians would pass up an opportunity to check out the local BBQ scene. It seems like there are a few barbecue options in Hannibal, but we decided to sample the dishes at Wayne BBQ. What started as a food truck has morphed into a brick-and-mortar that features plenty of smoky choices. Stepping inside, we were intoxicated by the smell of hickory and sauce. It smelled a little like home. We loved that they played off of the historic brick walls of the old downtown buildings. They have even incorporated it into their décor design.

Midwest is the Best

When taste-testing a new BBQ joint, we appreciate that they offer a variety platter of some type. Wayne’s does one up with four meats and two sides. You can add a couple of additional sides for a small charge, and it really helps to get a true vibe for their cooking style. It was hard to say which of the meats we liked the most, as each has it’s own good qualities. Having plentiful amounts of smoked turkey, beef brisket, pulled pork, and ribs meant that we could really get the full experience. You can imagine how difficult it was to stop eating, even though we knew we were already full. That is why we always take a cooler on our trips, so we can bring home some local treats.

Eating Our Way Through Hannibal

As you can see, we only scratched the surface of the dining options in downtown Hannibal, Missouri. With so many river town tastes to experience, we would have to stay for a month to make a real dent. Hopefully, you will clue us in on some of the ones you have discovered in Mark Twain’s home town. The city has so many historic sites to explore, that it will surely leave you hungry for sampling some local eats. Just be sure to leave a little for our next visit. Bon Appetit!

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Lover’s Leap

The name of Lover’s Leap is not uncommon across America. An internet search quickly identifies about two-dozen such sites. That doesn’t make this high ridge south of town any less impressive. Just a short drive from Karlock’s Kars brought us to the entrance of the hillside park. Once at the top, we found ourselves about 20 stories above the Mississippi River. The tales that surround these types of overlooks usually include a love-struck pair of youths. Such is the case for the one in Hannibal, as well. A native Indian brave falls in love with a princess from an opposing tribe. Both tribes forbid their love, and this story was sure to end badly. After being pursued by others from one of the tribes, the pair of lovers throw themselves from the cliff, as a sign of their enduring love.

Tom’s Cemetery

It is generally regarded that Twain’s tales have a basis of history behind them. This means that there must be sites where he gained his inspiration. One of the memorable scenes from The Adventures of Tom Sawyer is set in a graveyard. Many people have done a lot of research to determine which Hannibal cemetery would have been the inspiration. Most feel this designation goes to the Old Baptist Cemetery, but there are others who doubt this. According to old maps, there was another cemetery that would have resembled the “old-fashioned Western kind” which Twain alludes to in the book. In our heads, we pictured the Boot Hill Cemetery we visited in Dodge City, Kansas.

Larger than Life

As we explored the Old Baptist Cemetery, it became apparent that it held many stories. It seems that the hidden history in this graveyard took place on or before the Civil War era. Since this historic war took place in the 1860s, it would have been years after Clemens was a boy. There are other gravestones, half-buried and faded with time, that predate the war. Some of these go back to the early 1840s, which would have been during Clemens’s boyhood days. As we scouted this hilltop memorial park, our thoughts turned to the amazing tales that each grave held.

Resting in Peace

Cresting the hill, we found a couple of gravestones that had weathered the test of time a little better than the others. These were the graves of two Civil War soldiers who died on a nearby battlefield. Care had been taken to clear away the unkempt grass, and each had a small flag placed at their base. Even after over 150 years, people are still keeping a watchful eye over our departed veterans. We continued exploring the graveyard but found many stones were broken and battered with age. As dark fell, we decided that further investigation would have to wait for another visit.

River Tales

While there are many hidden history stories in Hannibal, others stand out in open. The Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse sits high atop a bluff overlooking a bend in the river. The original structure was built in 1935, on the 100th anniversary of Clemens’ birthday. The original was devastated by a windstorm in 1960, but this replacement was constructed in 1963. While it is not an operational lighthouse, it’s presence is a reminder of the quiet, yet powerful flow of the nearby Mississippi River.

Hidden History

It didn’t require a lot of detective work to uncover all of this hidden history. There are many more tales to be told about this unique river town. Those looking for a family-friendly escape can make their plans for a visit to Hannibal, Missouri. The spirit of Mark Twain is alive today and the locals welcome visitors to come to explore. You are sure to find plenty of opportunities to create some of your own stories. Safe travels!

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We want to thank the Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

Drawing from Life

Mark Twain disguised himself as a character in many of his novels. Pulling from his childhood memories, he crafted Becky Thatcher from a boyhood friend named Laura Hawkins. Laura lived across the street from Clemens and the house has been preserved as part of The Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum. Inside, we discovered that a museum that not only covers her life, but also the lives of children during the mid-1800s. Much like Tom and Becky, Clemens and Hawkins were childhood sweethearts.

Accidental Introduction

The Adventures of Tom Sawyer is a series of comical and exciting events that take place in a boy’s life. Early in the book Tom first catches sight of Becky. Even though he doesn’t yet know her name, he is determined to capture her attention. His attempts at showing off fail in his eyes, but they are things that readers can relate to on a personal level. After all, how many of us acted a little crazy when we found ourselves infatuated with someone? 

Becky Thatcher House

It was early in our visit to the Becky Thatcher House that we discovered the connection with Laura Hawkins. It must have been quite interesting growing up across the street from Samuel Clemens. During my research, I found comments made by Laura in subsequent years. Her vivid memories of Samuel shows the impact he made on her. She recalled how their first meeting involved Clemens attempting to show off, much like Tom does for Becky. Clearly, he freely used his memories to build the stories he would share with the world.

Life in the 1800s

As Clemens builds out the characters in his book, the class disparities become apparent. Huck Finn, the vagabond friend of Tom, has no responsibility. Tom envies Huck’s freedom from living a structured life, while overlooking the uncertainties that Huck faces. As a way to highlight the inequalities of life in the mid-1800s, Clemens uses Aunt Polly’s young slave, Jim. Here we see a life that has no control of his own destiny and has his life decisions controlled by another. The same disparity can be found in each of the boy’s duties and daily activities.

Distinct Differences

As we made our way through the displays at the Becky Thatcher House, we found that the exhibits are designed to help showcase these inequalities. It was nice to see that these were not done with a heavy hand, but instead allowed the visitor to come to certain conclusions on their own. For instance, the home or lack thereof that each of the children had to bed down in each evening. Although Tom was jealous of Huck’s seemingly free lifestyle, he still had the comfort of knowing where he would sleep each night.

School’s in Session

Education was another place that the disparity of class shone it’s light. Becky and Tom would each enjoy the opportunity for an education. Jim, being a slave, was not afforded this option. Huck, being a vagabond, was against the idea of any formal education, even if it was readily available. Clemens was drawing from life experiences when he created each of these characters. Spending his childhood days in Hannibal allowed him plenty of subjects to use for inspiration.

A Different Time

The museum displays include some other eye-opening information. Over the generations much has changed in the style of education. In the mid-1800s, corporal punishment was an acceptable way to grab the attention of a misbehaving youth. Seeing the forms of punishment that were doled out on the children was one of those cringeworthy moments.

Kids will be Kids

Moving through the Becky Thatcher House, we came to a display on the games children played in the mid-1800s. While some of the names were familiar from our own youth, others were a little foreign. All-in-all, while the games changed with time, it was still dependent upon the use of imagination. This commonality is why Clemens books have stood the test of time. It is easy for readers to relate to the subject matter and characters actions and motives.

Tom & Becky

The Adventures of Tom Sawyer make stars of Tom and Becky, who capture the heart of readers. To play off of this, the Hannibal Chamber of Commerce created a program that allows boys and girls to compete to be ambassadors for the city. Each year, a selection panel chooses from the field of seventh graders in the local schools to represent the essence of Tom and Becky. This fun program has recently been moved to the oversight of the Mark Twain Museum. During our visit, we were fortunate to meet the 2020 Tom and Becky and watch them perform a short skit. 

Taking Our Turn

Tom Sawyer captured the essence of childhood in a way that few novels have done. The stories of his escapades and adventures are still as entertaining to read. You know that a book has made an impact on you when you cannot wait to have a chance to whitewash the picket fence. Of course, it didn’t cost us a kite or any of our marbles. I guess we got the best of both worlds.

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We want to thank Faye Dant for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Freedom Center

While COVID has temporarily stifled the Huck Finn Freedom Center, we were able to arrange a tour through Faye Dant, the Executive Director. Faye is a local, who is a fifth-generation Missourian, and her passion for this center is easily apparent. The Freedom Center has dual purposes, as it focuses on preserving the history of the African-American community in Northeast Missouri. They celebrate the contributions while recognizing the strife and sufferings that impacted so many lives. They also honor Daniel Quarles, a Hannibal local, who would serve as Twain’s resource for Jim.

Slavery in the New World

Missouri entered the Union, as a slave state, in 1821. Even at that period in time, the issue of slavery was rising to the forefront of American politics. During the process of establishing statehood, Northern politicians attempted to introduce legislation that would have called for the slow abolition of slavery in Missouri. The Missouri Compromise was introduced as an effort to maintain a balance between abolitionist and proslavery forces, in the Union. While this pacified both sides, for the time being, it would eventually lead to the Civil War, when Kansas was admitted as a free state. Our visit to the Missouri State Museum had taught us about that period of Missouri history and the ongoing work to triumph over oppression.

Hannibal’s Early Economy

By the time Missouri became a state, slavery was deeply embedded in American culture. Opening the lands of the Louisiana Purchase meant that many slave families were broken apart, as slaves were brought west to the newly settled lands. When you consider the land clearing and farming done by these early slaves, it would be fair to say that they were the real settlers of the land. By 1850, nearly 25% of the population in Hannibal was made up of African-American slaves. Hannibal’s position along the Mississippi River made it a hub for the slave trade. All of this was the world around Samuel Clemens during his youth.

The Real Jim

In his later years, Clemens would recollect that the character of Jim was based on a man named Daniel Quarles. Clemens would interact with Daniel, during visits to his uncle’s farm in nearby Florida, Missouri. The segregated lessons he learned as a youth would eventually be replaced with compassion for all men. After the Civil War, Twain would become an advocate for equality, as he realized America must embrace it to truly move forward and triumph over oppression. Unfortunately, public opinion is a hard nut to crack. An excellent example is Joe Douglas, who fought his whole life with people believing him to be the basis for the character Injun’ Joe.

Church Life

Today we are familiar with our civil liberties, but African-Americans in the 1800s struggled with oppression. In Missouri, the law prohibited their ability to gather in large groups, unless supervised by a white person. The formation of churches went against this regulation, but many blacks were willing to hazard the consequences in order to worship. Although the churches were founded by free men, a large portion of the congregations were slaves. Their time at church was one of the rare instances of socializing.

Triumph Over Oppression

After the end of the Civil War, African-Americans found themselves entering a new era, but one that was filled with the same hatred as before. The Jim Crow era would see America segregate the newly freed slaves from the white population. Although they had won their freedom, this period would become extremely dangerous for blacks. Scattered throughout the media and inside of businesses, you would find widely distributed racist propaganda. By painting a picture of an uneducated populace, it made it easier to exclude African-Americans from the rights afforded to white citizens. This segregation included the requirement of separate schools and even precluded them from using the same water fountains.

Worthwhile Work

Our visit to the Huck Finn Freedom Center had shone a light on the changes that have occurred within our country. Much like Samuel Clemens, people are waking up to the brutal realities that most African-Americans have faced their entire lives. It will take all of us working together to squash the smoldering embers of racism that still haunt our country. We find that places like the Freedom Center help remind us that although we have made strides, there is still a considerable gap that needs to be closed if we are to triumph over oppression. We hope that you will consider visiting the Huck Finn Freedom Center after the restrictions of this pandemic are lifted.

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Humble Beginnings

This small start-up began as Central Aviation Company, which focused on reselling surplus propellers. They expanded the business to include airplane parts and engines. With a good stock of surplus aircraft from the war, it made sense that they would begin modifying these for resell. As business increased, so did their status in the aviation world. By hiring an engineer they were able to begin designing their own aircraft.

Star of the Show

The final design would be labeled the NB-3 after it’s designer Walter Barling. It was touted as a spin-proof aircraft that would right itself from any position. They took the plane to the 1929 National Air Races to test their mettle. It ended up placing at the head of the pack for its class. The NB-3 would be touted as a plane that you could learn to fly in one day.

Innovative Assets

We learned that it was the wings that were the real star. A double layer of corrugated aluminum made them very strong without adding excessive weight. The photo above shows the capacity to hold an amazing amount of stress. The NB-3 would raise a lot of eyebrows and put the Nicholas-Beazley Airplane Company in the headlines. This aircraft would be used to set records for altitude, distance, and speed.

Taking to the Skies

With things proceeding well, it was time to add another layer to their business. After Charles Lindberg’s successful Trans-Atlantic flight, interest in aviation was at an all-time high. To capitalize on this attention, they added the Marshall Flying School. Our tour guide, Bryan Berlin, explained to us that at one time it was the largest civilian flight program in the United States. For only $250, a student could learn how to pilot an aircraft. Between 1924 and 1932, nearly 4,000 people would pass through the school.

Signs of the Times

The early 1930s saw the introduction of the NB-8G, which featured fold-back wings. This allowed it to be towed behind a car, as well as making storage easier. While the interest in flight was not waning, the Great Depression took its toll on many businesses. The heydays had seen plenty of people enjoying this type of free-time activity, but now the marketplace had tanked. The factory ceased building planes by 1933 and would once again survive by selling parts. Times were tough and the owners did what they could to get by.

Something for Everyone

In 1935, one of the founder’s nephews designed an unusual aircraft. The Flying Flea was a miniature aircraft designed for homeowners. This single-seater was barely larger than a glider and was built using parts from around the factory. It certainly made us wonder who would take to the skies in such a contraption.

Space for the Kids

After our whirlwind tour of the museum, it was time to enjoy some hands-on time. The Nicholas-Beazley Aviation Museum offers plenty of space for young aviators to explore. While we may be a little older than the average visitor to this space, we are no strangers to playtime. It was nice to find that the museum was incorporating the S.T.E.M education principles into their exhibits.

Hands-On Learning

Exploring the displays tells the story of flight principles. Here we learned how the laws of physics are applied to aviation. They even have a sample jumbo jet where kids can pretend to be a pilot. Man, there are a lot of buttons and switches in there.

Taking Control

From the nearby control tower, we were able to get a birds-eye view of the museum. Of course, Crystal took the lead in helping guide an approaching plane. Yeah, we are a couple of big kids, but it helps us stay young. I bet you’d do the same thing during your visit.

Pilot Practice

One of our last stops was at the flight simulators. I had attempted this type of maneuvering during a visit to the TWA Museum, in Kansas City, and wanted to see if I had improved. After being shown the ropes, I found myself soaring above the trees in my virtual aircraft. This is definitely one activity that you will want to make sure you do, while at the museum.

Take to the Skies

Once again, you can see we had a blast learning about this hidden piece of Midwest history. The Nicholas-Beazley Aviation Museum is a great place to dive into the world of early aeronautics, all while keeping your feet firmly planted on the ground. They also have some fun selfie spots that we just had to partake in. This one had to be one of our favorites. Now we just have to figure out who’s flying this thing.

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One of a Kind Museum

The Wonder Dog of Marshall is certainly a well-documented story. In fact, we were wondering how it took us so long to hear about it. Arriving in Marshall, we made our way to the town square, where Jim the Wonder Dog Museum resides. We were a little early, so we started our visit to the memorial garden. At first, we thought it odd that a city would construct this type of memorial for a hunting dog. The walled garden is guarded by a brick wall with an impressive wrought-iron fence. Stepping toward the garden entrance, you find a bronze statue of Jim the Wonder Dog framed by the gate. Clearly, this canine made a lasting impression on the citizens of the city. After learning more about the exceptional hound, we would find ourselves impressed, as well.

Educational Stroll

The garden is a tranquil spot filled with lush landscaping. Our visit was mid-summer, so many of the plants were in full bloom. An oval path leads visitors around the small park and there are a few spots to sit and soak in the sights. From just about anywhere in the garden you can see the elevated sculpture of Jim. Of course, while he is the star of the show, much thought and attention has been put into making the garden a lovely place to loiter. Along the path, there are stations that each hold a part of Jim’s story. This is where it moves from a beloved pet to an uncanny canine.

The Wonder Dog of Marshall

To understand the Wonder Dog of Marshall we need to travel back to the mid-1920s. Our country was in the midst of the Great Depression. The economy was in shambles and people were barely scraping by. When the story of an amazing dog in Marshall began to circulate, it captured the attention of a populace starved for positive news. What could be more fascinating than a loyal pet that appeared to have some version of psychic abilities? While Jim seemed like a standard Lewellyn Setter, he was blessed with senses keener than most humans. While he refused the training of his owner Sam VanArsdale, his ability to root out birds would make him a favorite. Sam first noticed his abilities during a hunting trip, when the dog was able to identify various species of trees.

A Ruff Life

Over time, Jim’s abilities spread beyond hunting, to everyday life. He had a knack for pointing out vehicles by license number, color, or model. When Sam asked him to pick people out of a crowd, he was spot-on with his ability to determine which one “sells hardware” or is a “visitor from Kansas City”. He picked the correct girl from a group that was all wearing red dresses, but only after his owner added the instruction that it was the one with a polka-dotted bow in her hair. While just a coincidence, it was altogether fitting that Sam was the owner of the Ruff Hotel in Marshall, Missouri. With time, Jim’s accomplishments became known beyond the borders of Missouri. Stories about this remarkable mongrel were picked up by Field and Stream, as well as being featured by Ripley’s Believe It or Not.

Not Just Man’s Best Friend

This miraculous mutt charmed most people that he met. Having a chance to witness some of the astounding tasks that Jim performed was free entertainment. Being a time when people were struggling anyway, this most likely added to his fast-rising fame. While Sam spent a lot of time with his hunting partner, Mrs. VanArsdale also had a special relationship with their dog. She found Jim to be at peace with life and had a quiet demeanor. It was one of the paintings she made of Jim that would be used for the statue we found in the garden. Like many larger breeds, Jim had a relatively short life span. He passed at the age of 12 years old and although they tried, the family was not allowed to bury him in the family plot at the local cemetery. Jim would get the final satisfaction when the cemetery had to enlarge. The new border was moved to a position that put him well within the grounds.

Keep Searching for New Experiences

Learning about the Wonder Dog of Marshall was a great addition to our animal adventures. While many of our experiences are hands-on, like getting to feed Okapi, we also find satisfaction in the behind-the-scenes stories that are found all around us. The stories of this remarkable hound sound almost magical and invite skepticism and doubt. For us, we like to believe that Jim the Wonder Dog was a special gift that came along when people needed him the most. Even 80 years later it is a story that warms the heart.

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We want to thank the Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum for hosting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

Mark Twain Museum

To help us peel back the myth from the man, we traveled to Hannibal, Missouri. This river town is where you can find The Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum, which offers a deep dive into the life of Samuel Clemens. Let us start by pointing out that Mark Twain was the pen name used by the author. Over time, he became so synonymous with it that many people never learned his real name. The Twain Museum is designed to help teach visitors how Clemens’ stories have real life application that transcends the time period in which they were written. 

How It Began

Samuel Clemens was ushered in by a recent appearance of Halley’s Comet in 1835. This once every 75 year celestial visitor would star in more than one notable role in Clemens’ lifetime. His father was a judge who moved the family to Hannibal in 1839. By the mid-1840s, the family had settled into Clemens’ boyhood home. While Sam was one of seven children, only four made it through childhood. His father’s death, in 1847, would lead to Sam dropping out of fifth grade to become a printer’s apprentice. Much like Abraham Lincoln did, Clemens became self-educated by doing extensive reading in public libraries. While storytelling would become his path to fame, his first love was the river.

Growing Up in Hannibal

Clemens wrote that he and his comrades had one ambition, which was to become a steamboat pilot. In his writings, Hannibal would become St. Petersburg. Here he would cavort with his childhood chums as their antics would become legendary. The Mississippi River provided hours of exploring, as did a nearby cave. Both would play prominent roles in his stories. One of Clemens most famous books, Tom Sawyer, would include characters based on his real life boyhood friends. This man of many names wrote the role of Tom based on many of his own real life experiences.

The Innocence of Youth

During Sam’s youth, his family went through a series of hardships. As with many children, the realities of life are often unnoticed. Slavery was still practiced in Missouri and as a youth he came to accept it. Later in life, Clemens would become an outspoken advocate for Black rights. While his parents were not slave owners, he had family members who were. Summers spent at his uncle’s farm introduced him to stories told by enslaved workers. These too would be added to his tales in the future.

Familiar Faces

The lively characters created by Clemens have become household names for generations. Huckleberry Finn, a lovable oaf, was based on Tom Blankenship. The son of the town drunk, Tom was referred to by Clemens as “ignorant, unwashed, and insufficiently fed”. He lived an independent life, which made him the envy of the other boys in Hannibal. Another character inspiration was Injun Joe. Modeled after a loafer around town, the boys in town found him to be an inexhaustible source of amusement. Probably the best known character was Becky Thatcher, Tom Sawyer’s sweetheart. She was based on Laura Hawkins, a childhood friend of Sam’s.

Lessons Learned

Sam Clemens’ youthful spirit would turn him into a man of many names. His time as a riverboat pilot taught him the phrase “mark twain”, which signified waters deep enough for a boat to traverse safely. It made an appropriate pen name for him to use in the future. He became so synonymous with this name that his image is often recalled under this moniker, instead of his real name. Although he served at a variety of occupations, it was storytelling where he shined the greatest. Many of his stories were based on his own escapades.

A Man of Many Names

As we made our way through the Mark Twain Museum, the similarities between Clemens and his characters become more obvious. Sam was fond of traveling and his talent afforded him plenty. Often his journeys were paid for by publications looking for his stories. These trips took him to the Sandwich Islands (now known as Hawaii), Europe, and the Middle East. His marriage in 1870 would find him resettling to the east coast. During the last portion of the 1800s, Clemens would write his most famous books. This spurt would include the publication of  five major books; The Adventures of Tam Sawyer, Adventures of Huckleberry Finn, Life on the Mississippi, The Prince and the Pauper, and A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court.

Getting Into the Spirit

As we pointed out earlier, Samuel Clemens was born just after an 1835 visit by Halley’s Comet. In April of 1910, the comet made another appearance. Sam had predicted that since he came in with the comet, he would also go out with it. Sure enough, one day after the comet made it’s closest approach to earth, the author passed away. Our visit to the Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum had taught us a lot about the life behind the literary works. Now it was time to continue our deep-dive by visiting some of the other buildings. What is your favorite Mark Twain story?

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Life in “Little Dixie”

Across central Missouri, there is a wide swath of fertile land that borders the Missouri River. In the 1800s it was settled by European-American migrants primarily from Tennessee, Virginia, and Kentucky. Tobacco and hemp were two of the major crops that grew easily in this region. Soon, antebellum houses dotted the land, and these early settlers brought with them their enslaved laborers to work the fields. In 1860, about 10% of Missouri’s population was made up of slaves. In the fertile “Little Dixie” region, this number was much higher. The nearby river supplied a steady line of transportation for the hemp bales being sent east for rope production.

Life in “Little Dixie”

While living in “Little Dixie” was similar to that they had known in the south, there were marked differences. Living on the edge of the expanding nation put them right in the thick of the slavery issue. Missouri had entered the union as a pro-slavery state, but nearby Kansas was markedly an abolitionist territory. To bolster the anti-slavery agenda, emigrants from Vermont and Massachusetts arrived in droves. The Kansas-Nebraska Act of 1854 sparked the beginning of a border war between Missouri and Kansas. This was a full seven years prior to the start of the Civil War. The landowners in central Missouri could feel the winds of change blowing in from the west.

War Comes to Missouri

By 1861, the nation stood on the precipice of war. As the states chose sides, Missouri wavered with a decision. When the war was finally declared, anti-union troops moved their attention inward. The border war still raged, but the attack of Union troops by southern sympathizers began in earnest. Battles between federal and confederate troops sprung up around the state. By the fall of 1861, Confederate forces had the upper hand in Missouri. The Missouri State Guard was being led by Major General Sterling Price. Since Missouri had not seceded from the Union, the Confederate troops were on unstable legal grounds. Missouri’s pro-slavery Governor, Claiborne Fox Jackson, was fully in support of secession.

Hemp Bales and Bluffs

After a decisive victory at Wilson’s Creek, the Missouri State Guard turned their attention to Lexington. Union troops had recently confiscated $900,000 from the Lexington bank to prevent the secessionists from funding their war effort. Gov. Jackson, along with General Price, meant to prevent the Union troops from securing any more of the funds from the bank. The two forces were in place for the upcoming battles by mid-September. After some minor skirmishes, the field was set for the main battle to begin on September 18, 1861. The time for hemp bales and bluffs was drawing nigh.

Anderson House

The Union forces, which numbered around 3500 strong, had embedded with fortifications near the town’s Masonic College. Price and his army had received reinforcements. Their numbers had swollen to over 15,000. Under the threat of heavy artillery fire, the Missouri State Guard advanced on the Union lines. During the ensuing battle, a nearby home had been secured as a field hospital for Union soldiers. Confederate forces saw the advantages of claiming the “high ground” of this two-story building. After capturing the Anderson House, Union forces mounted a counterattack and regained the home.

Misplaced Deeds

When the Missouri State Guard attacked the hospital, Union officers considered it a violation of the Law of War. During the retaking of the house, Federal troops executed three Confederate soldiers. They felt this action was justified due to the indiscretion of Missouri Guard troops attacking a hospital. The Confederates felt that since the executed soldiers had surrendered, their deaths were equivalent violations. During the back and forth battles, the Anderson House suffered heavy damage. Many of the holes were still visible when we visited.

The Battle Drags On

Day 2 of the battle, September 19th, found the Union forces under heavy artillery fire. While the shelling was not especially damaging, there was another issue that was quickly becoming an imminent danger.  The wells in the area held by Federal troops had dried up and the Confederate lines had cut them off from a fresh supply. State Guard sharpshooters prevented any Union soldiers from fetching water. The troops attempted to dig two new wells, but both were dry. While the Union forces struggled with this new concern, Confederate troops began constructing a line of defense. Using hemp bales they had seized from nearby, they built a movable wall facing the Union defensive lines.

Rolling with Opportunity

The soldiers had soaked the hemp bales in the Missouri River overnight. These water-logged barriers proved to be nearly impervious to rifle and cannon shot. As dawn came on September 20th, the Confederate plan of victory was well on its way to completion.  State Guard troops began rolling their soaked blocks toward the Union lines. Unable to pierce this new defense, the Federal troops found themselves squeezed between hemp bales and bluffs. By early afternoon, Union forces had laid down arms and abandoned their trenches.

Battle of Lexington, Missouri

With both sides having significant fortifications, the casualties from this three-day battle were relatively light. Of the over 18,500 soldiers involved in the fight, only 69 deaths were recorded. One interesting side note of the battle occurred in downtown Lexington, Missouri. General Price had set up his command headquarters in a building across from the courthouse. On the final day of the battle, an errant cannonball struck a column of the courthouse, about 100 yards from Price. Legend states that the cannonball fell out of the hole and was collected by a local. Years later, the collector gave the ball to the county, which screwed it into the column to create a tourist attraction. It was even featured in Ripley’s Believe It or Not. Like they say, fact is stranger than fiction.

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We want to thank Go Boonville for supporting our visit. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

True Pioneer Spirit

While we were merely day-tripping in Boonville, many came before us who planted their roots. In fact, one of the first settlers in the territory was Hannah Cole. This woman embodied true pioneer spirit. After she and her husband moved to the area in 1810, he was killed by native Indians. She was left to raise their nine children by herself. Instead of packing it up and heading back east, she toughed it out and became the stuff of legends. Her house was used as a fort during the War of 1812, which provided safety for nearby settlers. In 1816, she was granted a license to operate the first ferry across the Missouri River between Franklin and Boonville. Talk about making your mark.

Keeping the Peace

As the land opened up, transportation became a big business in Boonville. The start of the Santa Fe Trail was just across the river on the banks of what was once Franklin, Missouri. River trade flourished, as new towns popped up farther upstream. The railroad came to town and challenged the river as the transportation method of preference. With so many ways to move cargo, Boonville was a sought after location during the Civil War. The city was growing and with it came the necessary support system. The local jail was kept busy by rowdy trails-men and even some notorious outlaws. Frank James, of James Gang fame, spent some time in the Cooper County Jail. Of course, we had visited another jail in Missouri that had him for a guest. Seems like he was well-known around these parts.

Paths Converge

When we first hit town, during our day-tripping in Boonville, we headed to the River, Rails, and Trails Museum. This place is filled with tons of information about the history of the city. It’s a great place to start your exploration. Inside, we found that as time marched forward, transportation migrated from the river, to wagons, and on to trains. Each of these modes of travel are represented in the museum. It also includes some interesting details about some of the other famous people to have visited or stayed in Boonville.

Transportation Advancements

We are all aware that the advancements in travel didn’t end with the railroad. While it did have an integral role in westward expansion, even this would be pushed to the side eventually. The days of the automobile were looming in the shadows. Giving people the control over when and where they traveled opened up new freedoms. By the turn of the century, motorized vehicles were making huge bounds on replacing the locomotive for independent travel. A slew of automakers were found across the nation, but some offered vehicles that were considered the “cream of the crop”. We had a chance to see many of them up close during a stop at the Mitchell Car Museum.

Keeping It Simple

Before beginning a driving tour of the beautiful homes found in and around the city, we decided to stop for a quick bite. Day-tripping in Boonville had worked up our appetites and we were fortunate to find Taylor’s Bake Shop ready to serve. It was a little too late for coffee, so we traded up to sandwiches and salads. During this stop, we met some locals and had a pleasant conversation about traveling. We love being able to connect with the residents of the destinations that we visit.

Day-tripping in Boonville, Missouri

After taking in some of the architecture from the 1800s, it was time for us to head on down the road. Day-tripping in Boonville had reminded us of the progression of travel that happened over the course of a short period. When we think about how our forefathers had to cross the prairies in wagons in the mid-1800s, it was only a half-century until automobiles made their appearance. There are many cities that did not see as many modes of transportation being used, as they have in Boonville. Clearly this city was meant to be on the move. Doesn’t this look like a great day-trip destination?

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An Early Start

You have to head back to the early 1800s to get to the beginning of this story. Over in Edinburgh, Henry Mitchell was working at a local wagon shop. After getting married, Henry and his wife, Margaret, sailed to America. Here he would take on a partner and proceed to open Mitchell Wagon Works. They produced some of the earliest wagons in Chicago. A few years later, he would move again, and this time land in Southport, Wisconsin. We learned this was a previous name for Kenosha, during our visit to the city along the lakeshore. Over time, the Mitchell family would grow and more would become engaged in the business.

Delivering the Goods

After the Civil War, William Lewis joined the business, after marrying into the family. Lewis bought into the company and the two of them established H. Mitchell & Co. The family business flourished and grew to the point of producing 8 to 10 thousand wagons per year. In 1880, disaster struck when the wagon factory burned to the ground. While many businesses would have been devastated, not so for this one. They not only regained their market share but became a leading world exporter of wagons around the world.

Next Steps

Much like today, the technology of the times was moving forward, as we saw at the Mitchell Car Museum. Mitchell and Lewis capitalized on these advancements by introducing a motorized bicycle at the tail end of the 1800s. When you think of today’s motorcycles, these early models paled in comparison. Many of the motorized versions were no faster than peddle-powered bicycles. Still, the lessons learned with each new model would move technology forward. In 1902, Mitchell Motor Cycle was outpacing its competitor Harley-Davidson with a whopping 600 motorcycles.

Moving Forward

Besides outpacing Harley-Davidson, there was another notable event in 1902. That was the year that Mitchell and Lewis introduced their first automobile. The following year they established the Mitchell Motor Car Company, which signified the move from wagons to autos. They started with two models that offered customers a choice between 4 or 7 horsepower motors. By 1904, they had streamlined their assembly process to the point that they built 82 new automobiles. The lessons they learned from the wagon industry helped them to establish themselves as an international car manufacturer. Soon they were selling Mitchell cars on nearly every continent.

Into the Blue

One of the things that caught our eye was the beautiful colors that we saw lined up in the museum. After visiting a slew of museums, we have seen a variety of cars from the turn of the century. Most auto manufacturers seemed satisfied with sticking to black as their main offering, but not Mitchell. They had a range of colors to choose from, with blue being their most recognizable. We have to say that when combined with all of the brass accents, it makes for a striking appearance. For this visit, our tour guide was Katie Gibson, who serves as Tourism Director for the City of Boonville. She pointed out that Mitchell was ahead of the pack by choosing to offer customers a higher-end product produced in an array of colors.

Coloring the Past

The Mitchell Car Museum holds a wonderful assortment of models from the company’s history. Their ability to produce a consistently superior product pushed them forward in the marketplace. By 1910, the Mitchell Motor Car Company had just under 3000 employees and was producing over 5600 automobiles. New advancements were coming almost every year. Soon the gas lamps would be replaced with electric lights. Hand-crank starters would be updated to self-starting devices.

Beauty Show

The company continued to prosper under the family’s guidance. In 1916, the company sold around 10,000 vehicles, but the family was reeling from the loss of its founder the previous year. Tiring of the day-to-day details, the family sold their interest in the business to investors from New York and Chicago. This would signify the end of an era for the Mitchell Motor Car Company. 1917 saw the world plunged into war, which had severe implications for the economy. The government had contracted with the company for four-wheel-drive trucks to be used in the war effort. Still, the company was able to produce multiple body styles at the same time.

Taking In the Mitchell Car Museum

As Katie led us through the Mitchell Car Museum, we were in awe of the beauty of these vehicles. The collection is in the care of Lewis Miller, who is a descendant of the original owners. His Mitchell collection is certainly unique and allows others to have a peek into the past. Most of the machines have been meticulously revived by Lewis. He is owner, operator, and caretaker of the Mitchell Car Museum and his love for these vehicles is obvious. Over the past couple of decades, he and his wife, Susan, have amassed the most extensive collection of Mitchell vehicles in the world.

Projects in the Works

As we were finishing up our tour, Katie had one more surprise for us. In a nearby garage bay, Lewis has another project in the works. Here we could see all of the detailed work required to reboot one of these vehicles into pristine shape. It obviously requires a lot more than a wash and wax. This 1914 Mitchell Touring Car needed plenty of loving care, as well as some new cast replacement parts. We can only imagine the cost associated with keeping all of these antique machines in running order.

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A Thorough History Lesson

Our first stop was the Arrow Rock Visitor Center, so we could get some background information on this village. Inside we discovered the rich history that makes up the Boone’s Lick region of Missouri. The native tribes were aware of the riches that the land offered centuries before European explorers arrived. As we made our way through the visitor center, our travel took us through time. After the period of ownership by Spain and France, the Louisiana Purchase opened it up for pioneering Americans. Our history lessons continued, as we moved through the Civil War and right up to present day.

Marking the Way

The Village of Arrow Rock has a number of historic sites for visitors to explore. Stopping in the shops on Main Street allowed us a chance to grab one of their town maps. While the village is not overly large, it has quite a few points of interest. Finding them is as easy as following the map and referencing the appropriate number to the information in the handout. It makes learning some history lessons as easy as 1, 2, 3.

Temporarily Silenced

Sitting on a hillside not far from Main Street we came upon the Lyceum Theater. This 1872 structure began life as a Baptist church. In 1960 it was converted into a professional repertory theater. It has hosted a variety of Broadway-style shows. Its popularity required the addition of a large auditorium that was completed in 1993. As we passed by, the building sat in majestic silence. The pandemic has created the need to curtail all shows for the present time. We hope this will change before long, and the performances can return.

Call for a Cure

Our visit to Arrow Rock was unexpectedly appropriate. We had made the trip because we were searching for safer destinations to explore during the pandemic. One of the stops along the town map led us to the Sappington Museum. Here we discovered that one of the town’s early residents was instrumental in helping slow the spread of malaria. As we read the information boards inside the family home, it reminded us that there are many out there working hard to solve today’s medical issue.

“The” Missouri Artist

The title above may bring to mind a variety of names. Every famous Missouri artist had their moment in the sun. George Caleb Bingham earned this distinction during the mid to late 1800s. Growing up in a challenging situation, he learned to paint from an art teacher at his mother’s school. His gift for portrait painting led him to St. Louis, where he started his first studio. Later success would carry him to a lucrative career on the East Coast.

Midwest Life

By the age of 34, he was ready to return to the Midwest. In 1848, he would be one of just a few artists who has ever been elected to office. He served as a Missouri delegate during the period of the Civil War, where he supported the Union. One of our surprise history lessons was learning that Bingham would become the first President of the Kansas City Board of Police Commissioners. These days visitors can arrange a tour of his Arrow Rock home.

The Silent Residents

In 1995, an archaeologist from the McClung Museum, in Knoxville, came to Arrow Rock to study the life and culture of the town’s African-American residents. His teams excavated a variety of sites that showcased the changing impact that these people had made in the village. Some of the information they uncovered is included in the African-American Experience Museum. Housed in the Arrow Rock Free Will Baptist Church, the museum helps explain some of the issues that black residents faced from the earliest days through the 20th century. This space is not to be missed when you make your visit.

Lunch Break

All of these history lessons had created quite an appetite. It was just a couple of short blocks to Catalpa Restaurant. From the moment we arrived, we knew it was going to be a good meal. Since our visit occurred during the Covid time-frame, dining was restricted to tables set up on the lawn. Of course, there was plenty of shade, which made for a fun setting. Our sandwiches were spot on delicious and tossing in a specialty shake supplied our sweet treat.

Going Old School

With all of these history lessons swirling in our brains, it was time for a little less serious exploring. Arrow Rock has a few unique shops that really stand out. While most are on Main Street, we located Thunder Lodge Trading Company just down the street from our lunch stop. They tout themselves as a home goods store, but it is so much more. While it does offer some interesting artistic accents for the home, it also has some that are out of the ordinary. A selection of black powder horns is one of these, as is the assorted fur pelts that hang from the wall. If you are looking for that one-of-a-kind gift for the person who has everything, you are sure to find it here.

Shopping Time

As we were leaving Thunder Lodge we ran into a couple who was also visiting from Kansas City. It’s surprising just how often this happens to us. The really unusual part was that the gentleman grew up two doors behind me in KCK. What an interesting turn of events. After we spent some time catching up, we bid our goodbyes and headed back to Main Street. The historic porch covered boardwalk looks like something straight out of a movie. Many of the shopkeepers were enjoying the pleasant weather and had set up shop on the boardwalk. As we shopped, we chatted with them about the history lessons we had found in Arrow Rock.

New Trading Post

At the far end of the row of shops, we came to the Arrow Rock Trading Post. Being in such an antique-style setting, we weren’t exactly sure what we would find inside. To our surprise, this space was performing double duty as a boutique and home accents shop. While Crystal browsed through the whole store, I focused my attention on some of the interesting foodstuffs. We both enjoyed the variety of products that this place had in stock. It was hard to believe how much they offered since all of the spaces looked much smaller from the outside.

History Lessons Achieved

With a day full of history lessons complete, it was time to start heading back to Kansas City. While the pandemic may be making travel more complicated, it has forced us to take a renewed look at destinations we missed in the past. Many of these smaller towns and villages are the perfect destination for a casual day trip or overnighter. We have found that they offer a safer atmosphere and the business owners are so thankful to see visitors. It looks like 2020 will be filled with these types of adventures, but we are finding that they can make for some of the most memorable excursions.

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Charting the Land

Most people are well aware of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. After America and France finalized the Louisiana Purchase, an expedition was needed to chart this new territory. In the summer of 1804, the two explorers, along with 43 recruits, made their way past the area that would become Boonville. The River, Rails, and Trails Museum has a model of the keelboat used by the corps as they navigated the Missouri River.

River Town

Our visit to this museum gave us an opportunity to meet Katie Gibson, who serves as the tourism director for the city of Boonville. As she walked us around the space, she told us tidbits of history from the city’s past. The museum is a dual-purpose space, as it also serves as the city’s visitor center. Here we were able to get information about the various historic sites, local eateries, and shops sprinkled around the area.

Plying the Waters

The Missouri River has always been a key component to life in Boonville, Missouri. The River, Rails, and Trails Museum starts visitors off with a look at some of the crafts that navigated the waters. A collection of model boats is set up to show how the paddle-wheels worked on some early models. It was interesting to see the details included in each of these models. I have to admit that it was also fun to push the buttons and watch them burst into action.

Notable Name

The river was used not only to move people but to transport merchandise to communities along the way. Many of the general stores depended on their supplies being shipped upriver from St. Louis. Along the way, these ships faced a variety of hazards, which could change on a daily basis. Heavy rains would drag new flotsam into the river and create the potential of snags. Quite a few vessels became victims of these often hidden threats.

Common Hazards

In one of the exhibits, the museum highlights one of the victims of the river. The Missouri Packet was a steamboat that plied these waters in the early 1800s. This 120-foot long ship fell victim to one of these “snags” that were ever-present but often hidden. We had seen the engine from this vessel, which had been recovered and on display at the Arabia Steamboat Museum in Kansas City. Little did we realize that the Hawleys had been in this area previously to do the recovery of this historic wreckage.

Boone’s Lick

While many of the boats were used to bring in materials, they also served to transport items harvested from this region to the markets back east. The nearby salt lick was a booming business that sent this vital commodity back east for use in the meat-packing plants. Pioneers were also popular customers of the salt-production business, as they used it to preserve foods for their long journey west. Boone’s Lick became a vital business to help settle the new frontier.

Pioneer Travel

The River, Rails, and Trails Museum highlights the changing modes of travel used by people heading west. While the rivers were considered “Nature’s Highways”, they did have their limitations. Travel by these waterways would only get you to certain areas. Once they disembarked, the pioneers would still have to travel across land to their potential homesteads. For most, the wagon would be their choice vehicle to move their possessions westward. It was interesting to see the assortment of goods that would be carried by a family to stock up their new home.

Iron Horses

As these pioneers fanned out across the continent, there was another “highway” being built. The intercontinental railroad would become the preferred method of transportation for many decades. With routes and spurs diverging in all directions, the railroads would offer safe travel lanes throughout the nation. What used to take weeks could be accomplished in days. The grand age of rail travel would bring new residents to the towns and cities that sprung up alongside the rails.

Fun for All

After our tour with Katie, it was time to do a little closer exploration on our own. In the back of the River, Rails, and Trails Museum we located a kid-friendly section. A large model railway has been constructed to show a stylized version of Boonville. For a quarter, you can make the trains chug along the tracks for five minutes. We are confident that the kids will enjoy watching these diminutive replicas go about their travels as much as we did.

Play Place

Next door to the train display we found Cole Fort. This play area is designed to offer smaller visitors a place to explore while their parents investigate the rest of the museum. The small fort is named after Hannah Cole. This widow, and her nine children, moved to the Boonville region in 1810. She is believed to be one of the first settlers to move south of the river. Her arrival was actually a couple of years prior to the land being opened up for homesteading. Can you imagine the struggles she faced in the days before so many luxuries?

Worlds Collide

During the latter half of the 1800s, the Kemper Military School served as “The West Point of the West”. What began as a simple boarding school would morph into a highly successful enterprise. Prepping students for life in the harsh western environment required discipline, and many schools in the region adopted a military-style. The last decade of the 1800s would see Kemper’s most prominent attendee. Will Rogers would later go on to become a famous entertainer, after his stint at the academy.

Artistic Endeavor

We spent some more time examining the various exhibits at the River, Rails, and Trails Museum. Many were focused on local businesses and we saw a variety of artifacts from the past. As we made our way toward the end of the displays, we came upon a colorful area filled with local art. Three panels were constructed using found pieces of leftover materials. It was a good reminder that we need to be wise stewards of the waste stream to keep it from ending up in our waterways.

River, Rails, and Trails

Across from this artwork is a large exhibit that is used to educate visitors about their impact on our nation’s waters. Here you can see how various water features work to filter and feed the environment. It is a reminder that it is up to all of us to protect our rivers, lakes, and streams. Our last moments were spent exploring the small gift shop that is part of the visitor’s center. We found a nice assortment of memorabilia to choose from that would help us remember our time in Boonville, Missouri. Have you ever visited this historic Midwest city?

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African-American Experience Museum

The Village of Arrow Rock, Missouri is fairly easy to explore on foot. With only a few square blocks, we set out to see all of the historic sites. On the northern edge of town, we came upon Arrow Rock Free Will Baptist Church, which has since been renamed Brown’s Lodge. Inside this 1869 structure, we discovered the African-American Experience Museum. It was here that we would learn about the struggles of the slaves as they transitioned to freedom after the Civil War.

What Now?

Let us not forget that much of Arrow Rock’s construction can be traced to slave labor. From the old-fashioned stone gutters along Main Street to the historic J. Huston Tavern, most of this was due to the work of African Americans. From Arrow Rock’s inception in 1829, the institution of slavery was evident all through the region. Fertile farmland was ripe for growing hemp and tobacco, both of which require strong hands and backs. By the time of the Civil War, plantations stretched all across the region’s landscape. During the Civil War, tensions rose and heinous actions occurred throughout the region.

After the War

The emancipation, on January 22, 1865, did not result in equality for all. Many of those that had been slaves on the plantations chose to continue working them in exchange for room and board. Others decided to move into nearby towns to take whatever jobs they could find. Unfortunately, these were few for those who were typically uneducated. Let us not forget that these disadvantages did not stop African Americans from finding unique ways to advance.

Job Opportunities

While some African Americans became business owners, most were resigned to manual labor tasks. Plenty of jobs were available in the nearby quarry and sawmill. Over time many would move from renters to homeowners. Even in this area, the disparity was evident. While there are many historic homes in Arrow Rock, few of the black citizens remain. This is mostly due to the lower quality of materials used in the construction of homes for African Americans. It was not uncommon for a black family’s home to have mismatched windows and doors, which came from using salvaged and recycled materials.

Life Revolves Around Church

During the turn of the century, the black community remained separate and apart from Arrow Rock’s white citizens. Let us not forget that even as they built this town, they also constructed their own churches, schools, and meeting halls. The African-American Experience Museum that we were visiting happens to be inside one of these. While it began as the Arrow Rock Free Will Baptist Church, it would eventually be renamed for its first minister, John Brown.

Brown Lodge Number 22

The building has two distinct floors that each had a specific purpose. While the first floor was used as a restaurant, the second floor served as the meeting hall for Free Masons. Those in need would find solace and support, as these types of establishments served as social safety nets. While the lodge would disband in the early 1930s, the restaurant would continue to operate into the 1950s.

Let Us Not Forget

The segregation, in Arrow Rock, continued even after death. About five miles south of the village is the Sappington Cemetery. Here you can find graves of some of the most prominent members of the white community. A separate cemetery was established for the African American citizens. Not far away is the Sappington Negro Cemetery, which sits on land donated by Dr. John Sappington. A stark contrast can be seen between the two sites. The Sappington Negro Cemetery is filled with less ornate stone and many unmarked graves. Let us not forget that until the 1930s, African Americans were the majority of the population in Arrow Rock, Missouri.

Changing Demographics

What we discovered at the African American Experience Museum is that the town of Arrow Rock owes much to its black citizens. After the Civil War, the town was in a continual decline. Let us not forget that it was the freed slaves, who moved to the area after the war, that helped keep the community alive.  While many of the tales were only recorded orally, it does not diminish the important role that they played in the village. Opportunities to learn from sites like this are one of the things we relish about traveling. For us, it is a form of continued education.

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Cozy Comfort

While this village has a couple of dining options, we discovered that J. Huston tavern was closed due to a recent kitchen fire. That made our dining destination decision simple. After exploring some of the local historical sites, we were ready to chow down. It was easy to locate Catalpa Restaurant, since it was only offering outside dining options. As we approached, we saw a grouping of tables scattered around the front lawn. Fortunately, some mature trees were providing some much needed shade.

Shady Selections

We made our way to the side of the restaurant, where the line to order was queuing up. As we awaited our turn, we scanned the menu for possibilities. Their lunch options are fairly straightforward and we could tell it would include sandwiches, shakes, and shade. Keeping our social distance, we finally made our way up to the server. Our first thought was there would be a long wait. We quickly realized the six-foot gaps between groups made the line appear longer than reality.

Take It Outside

We placed our order and were given a number. Back around to the front to find a comfortable spot to await our meal. All around us we noted parties of people in some state of dining. It appeared to be a mix of locals and visitors, but all were welcoming. The first thing to arrive was our Grasshopper Shake. The neon green color contrasted with the dark brown of the chocolate. A dollop of whip cream adorned the top, and was decorated with some green sugar sprinkles. We sipped on this creamy treat as we awaited our main courses. Before long, a server delivered our tray full of goodies and we prepared to dive in.

Buttonwood Bird

One of the things we like about visiting this type of eatery is that many will strive to partner with local ingredient suppliers. Catalpa is one of those who has developed relationships that keeps a steady stream of fresh ingredients flowing into their kitchen. Crystal selected the Buttonwood Farm Chicken Sandwich that is served with meat from nearby California, Missouri. Grilled to tender perfection, she had hers slathered with Basil Pesto Mayo and nestled inside a garlic bun. It was accompanied by a helping of delicious Basil Bacon Potato Salad. I have to say that in hind sight I was pretty jealous of her choices.

Beefy Bite

While Crystal’s meal was filled with some amazing flavors, my choices were not devoid of taste. The 1/2 Pound Beef Burger is a mountain of meat designed to satisfy the hungriest appetite. I had a rather light breakfast, so this meal really helped me get back on track. It is served on the same style of garlic bun, but I had them include lettuce, ketchup, mayo, and a slice of Havarti cheese. For a side, the chips and salsa sounded satisfying and it had plenty of kick to boot.

Sandwiches, Shakes, and Shade

With our appetites satisfied, we were happier than a bird with a French fry. We paused for a moment to take a quick selfie, which helps us remember the places we visit. This lunch stop had provided a perfect mix of sandwiches, shakes, and shade. Now that we were recharged, it was time to get back to exploring Arrow Rock. There were still some historic stops, as well as a collection of shops calling our names. Perhaps our next visit to this village will find that J. Huston Tavern has reopened and we can sample its flavors, as well. One thing for certain, the Village of Arrow Rock is truly a great choice for a day trip visit.

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Heading West

John Sappington was born in Maryland and came from a medical background. His father had studied medicine in Pennsylvania and became a physician. During his childhood, the family moved to Nashville, Tennessee. That is where he and his brothers would study medicine with their father. The time period was right around the beginning of the 1800s. With the frontier expanding at a frightening pace, doctors were in high demand. A chance meeting with Senator Thomas Hart Benton would lead to Dr. Sappington’s relocation to central Missouri.

Trying Times

Sappington, and his family, moved to Arrow Rock in 1819. The area held much promise, as it had become well-known for its saltwater springs. This led to the nickname of Boone’s Lick, due to the Daniel Boone family building a successful salt lick operation. Dr. Sappington quickly grew in local stature not only as a physician but also as importing and exporting goods. In 1824 he partnered in a store that sold goods to travelers along the Santa Fe Trail. As the population of America migrated across the plains, diseases followed and infected many campsites.

Stopping the Spread

Long before Europeans visited the South American continent, the native people had already identified the healing powers of Cinchona bark. Nicknamed the “fever tree” by Spanish explorers, the bark powder would be added to water to create a powerful tonic. By the mid-1600s, this tree bark concoction was already gaining favor in treating malaria symptoms. This mosquito born disease was common in swampy or poorly drained areas. Since most pioneers chose to settle near bodies of water, malaria ravaged the frontier. Dr. Sappington discovered a way to extract the quinine from the cinchona bark and create anti-fever pills.

Taking It to Market

This newly developed medicine was found to cure a variety of illnesses, including influenza, scarlet and yellow fevers. Soon the pills were in high demand and Sappington created a new company to manage the sales across the continent. As the popularity of this cure spread, Sappington continued his research. He discovered that quinine pills could be used as a preventative measure to ward off malaria. Stopping the spread of this terrible disease became a primary goal for Sappington. His family and traveling sales agents regularly prescribed to this practice and were able to successfully travel safely to regions prone to malaria.

Controversy Swirls

While the success of his anti-fever pills was apparent, many in the medical field rejected their use. If the dosage was not well regulated it could result in blindness or even death. Dr. Sappington believed so strongly in sharing the success of this drug that he produced a medical book in 1844. “Theory and Treatment of Fevers” not only explained the use of the drug, it even gave the exact formula used in its manufacture. Much to his family’s dismay, this made it easy for other physicians to create their own brand of anti-fever pills.

Leaving a Legacy

Quinine remained the mainstay cure for stopping the spread of malaria into the 1940s. During World War II, Japanese forces invaded some of the regions where Cinchona trees were grown. The need for antimalarial drugs was key to the Allied forces fighting in tropical areas. A worldwide shortage created the need to speed up research into synthetic medicines. These days the use of quinine for malaria has been systematically replaced with synthetic substances that create fewer side effects. While the times have changed the use of this wonder drug, it is still amazing to discover its connection with rural Missouri. Oh, the things you learn when you head out exploring.

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Early Inhabitants

It’s nice visiting museums that deal with events in chronological order. Here we started with the earliest human inhabitants. While there were various tribes that passed through the region, the museum focuses on two major groups. The Osage and Missouria tribes were living their life in the Boone’s Lick region for generations. No one knows the exact timing of the first inhabitants, as history has not dwelt in this region. What is known is that the Osage were impressive people to behold. Few stood below 6 feet tall, and many reached closer to 7 feet. While other tribes lived in the region, the Osage ruled the land.

The French Arrive

Late in the 17th century, French explorers made their way down the Mississippi to the Missouri River. (Something we learned during our visit to Quebec City.) As they explored the area, they created names for the people and places they experienced. A misunderstanding is probably responsible for the state of Missouri’s name. When asking about the tribe that lived beside the river, their guides called them “Mihsoori”. This roughly translates to “people of the wooden canoes” (dugouts). History has shown that once a name was affixed on a map, it would usually stick and become part of history.

Expanding Territory

During the mid to late 1700s, more immigrants found their way into Boone’s Lick territory. In 1803, Thomas Jefferson completed the Louisiana Purchase, which opened up the lands for settlers. The next year, Lewis and Clark would begin their historical journey to map these new lands. Fast forward another year and you would find Daniel Boone’s sons had discovered a salt lick in nearby Howard County. Salt production was about to begin in earnest, and the path through this region was named the Boone’s Lick Trail. This precursor to the Santa Fe Trail led from St. Charles to the ferry crossing at Arrow Rock.

Regional Industry

The production process for retrieving the salt from the water is fairly straightforward but labor-intensive. A stone furnace must be constructed for heating the water. Large iron kettles are used for this step. As the water evaporates, the salt residue is left behind. This process required plenty of wood as fuel for the furnaces. Before long the nearby area had been cleared. It is estimated that by the end of the operation wood was being brought from nearly four miles away to feed the operation.

Getting Product to the People

Once the work of gathering the salt was complete, it still had to be moved to markets. Wagons were loaded with barrels of salt to be transported to towns nearby. With the Missouri River in close proximity, much of the salt could be transported by keelboat downriver to St. Louis. Salt was an important commodity for taming the wilderness. Besides its obvious use as a seasoning, it was used to tan hides and preserve meats.

Conflict in the Heartland

Even as this enterprise was growing, struggles were occurring around the country. By 1810, an impending conflict with Britain was looming on the horizon. The region was already feeling a growing sense of unrest from the Osage tribe who had partnered with the English troops. While actual conflict with British troops was mostly restricted to the eastern seaboard, the central region of the continent did not remain at peace. Life in the Boone’s Lick region included skirmishes with the warring Indian tribes. Salt production was halted during the War of 1812 and would not resume until peace was made in 1815.

War Comes to the Midwest

Missouri entered the union in 1821 and was decreed a slave state. Due to the terms of the “Missouri Compromise”, no other states would be allowed this designation so far north. New residents flooded into Missouri from many of the southern states. There was also a steady flow of easterners looking for space in this new frontier. The central region of Missouri, including the Boone’s Lick area, would end up with the highest concentration of slave owners. To people who frequented the region, it often was referred to as “Little Dixie”. Many historians believe that the conflicts that arose in Missouri were the seeds that created the Civil War.

Assorted Artifacts

The well-documented “Border War” grew from a war of words into an armed guerilla conflict, during the 1850s. As the Kansas territory sat at the eve of statehood, Congress ruled that each state would choose its own designation by popular vote. This action would lead to mass migration into Kansas territory as each side attempted to turn the polls in their favor. This would lead to armed actions on both sides of the slavery issue and eventually spark the country’s Civil War. As we explored the Arrow Rock Visitors Center, we discovered plenty of interesting artifacts. These helped us get a better perspective of life in the Boone’s Lick region.

Boone’s Lick Territory Today

As we all know, many small communities came and went during the taming of the west. These days there are still a number of towns and cities that have survived. Each has its own distinct flavor and history. Our plans are to seek out interesting sites around the region and explore them in detail. We hope that by sharing a taste of each one, you will be spurred to make a pilgrimage to see them for yourself. After all, we believe that this type of travel is a form of continuing education that can be accomplished at all ages. Travel safely!

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Central Missouri Playland

Ha Ha Tonka is located at the southern tip of the Lake of the Ozarks. While mention of this place can be traced back to the early 1800s, it is certain that Native Indians visited the area long before that. The park is filled with unique geological formations, which can be accessed by a series of trails. Our first stop was at the visitor’s center, which was closed due to the CoronoVirus pandemic. Fortunately, the staff had previously filled the station with plenty of park maps. We took a minute to film a quick video, before heading to our first trail. Our plans for the day included stopping back by this area for a picnic lunch.

If You Build It, They Will Come

One of the notable manmade structures is Ha Ha Tonka Castle. In the early 1900s, Robert Snyder visited the area from his home in Kansas City. He was so enamored with the raw beauty of the land that he began buying up parcels. His plan was to construct a European-style castle that would become his private retreat. The plans included 60 rooms with a central atrium that spanned three and a half stories. There would be a water tower, greenhouses, and stables to supply provisions for Snyder and his family. Local sandstone was readily available from the cliffs below. Construction began in 1905 but came to a screeching halt at the untimely death of Snyder in one of Missouri’s first automobile accidents.

Starting Our Day Easy

Access to the castle is made by a paved trail that begins in a parking lot nearby. After a few rainy days, we had struck upon a sunny and warm change. Our idea of getting some sunshine and social distancing was not unique to us. We saw other couples and small family groups doing the same thing. In a world filled with apprehension, it was quietly uncomfortable to pass people along the trail. Gone were the passing niceties and warm wishes. These were replaced with stray glances and obvious separation. There would be no group conversations about the weather or the landscape, as everyone kept to themselves.

Nothing But Ruins

With a winter of complacency under our belts, we were thankful for this opportunity to commune with nature. This first hike was easy with only a slight incline. We made our way around Ha Ha Tonka Castle but noticed that each group would take their turn at a specific viewpoint. There was no crowding, no rushing, and no close lines. As I looked around, I noticed that each group stayed together even to the point of corralling their children in tight formation.

Snyder’s sons had taken up the mantle of completing the construction, and it was finished in 1922. They scaled back dramatically from their father’s vision. After a few years of residing in the castle, the family leased it out as a hotel. Sparks from a chimney started a fire on the roof, which destroyed the structure in 1942.

Checking Out the Geological Formations

After taking in some of the views from high on top of the bluff, we followed one of the wooden boardwalk trails to the remains of the water tower. This too had been destroyed by fire, but at a much later date and by vandals. A short drive back down the hill brought us to a turnoff for another unique sight. While Missouri is not the only place that you can find Karst landscapes, it does feature an amazing amount of caves, sinkholes, and natural bridges. Of course, we have visited many other caves, like this one in Dubuque, Iowa. Natural bridges are a little rarer to find, especially one that is so easily accessible. Passing under it leads hikers to the “Colosseum”, which is a sinkhole 500 feet long and up to 300 feet wide.

Passing Through Unscathed

While the rains had ended a couple of days ago, groundwater was still leeching from the ridge above. It must surely be a small waterfall during and shortly after a rain event. By the time we visited, it was a steady group of drips that splashed down on the rocks below. We stood watching and listening to the stillness of this valley. The huge sinkhole resulted from a collapsed cave. Now we stood surrounded by sheer cliffs that rose around us. According to legend, this spot was used for tribal meetings and church revivals.

Sunshine and Social Distancing

We passed a short distance down the trail but found that it led to an abrupt halt due to muddy conditions. Not wanting to destroy nature or our shoes, we chose to turn back. As we approached the bridge, we noticed another couple coming down the trail. There was another one of those awkward moments, where we all wondered what was the appropriate protocol. Lessons like this had never been taught as this type of situation was foreign to us. We chose to remain at a safe distance and relish in the sunshine and social distancing that had been prescribed. Once the other couple passed, we made our way back up the trail to our car.

The Old Mill

Moving farther into the park , we came to Tonka Spring Road. Here we found ourselves at the base of the cliff that holds Ha Ha Tonka Castle. As we made our way down a wide paved path, we could see the ruins above us. Perched on the 250-foot tall bluff it must have provided amazing views during its heyday. We hiked the boardwalk trail to the beginning of Ha Ha Tonka Spring. Along the way, we passed the remnants of an old gristmill. A grinding stone sits nearly half-buried along the water’s edge. The path to the spring is easy, but for those looking for a challenge, it is awaiting you there. Those brave souls interested can scale the 316 steps, which ascend 200 feet up the cliff to the Dell Rim Trail. We decided to pass.

Island Hopping

Our interest had been piqued by the sight of rapids on the opposite side of a small island. We made our way over a small bridge and found ourselves deposited at the base of a steep hillside. Rough steps had been carved out, so we began our trip up. While it was strenuous, the climb was not overly long. Once on top, it immediately dropped back down to the other side. Here we found the spring waters rushing down rapids into the lake below. We took this opportunity to rest on the rocks overlooking the rapids. High above, eagles soared over the bluff riding the currents of warm air. As we sat there alone, we soaked in the sunshine and social distancing that we had sought out. Perhaps this period of self-induced isolation would be manageable.

Social Distancing in Formation

Looking out across the lake, we spotted a group of kayakers paddling nearby. Our discussion migrated toward other outdoor adventures that we could enjoy in partial isolation. For a few years, we have discussed the idea of a float trip. That in itself is designed to be a journey of self-sufficiency. Our one concern would be how we would get to the drop-off point since they are usually hauling a larger party. This would be something that we could research further if this quarantine period extends into the summer months.

Heading Home…

With our internal batteries recharged, it was time to begin the journey home. Our visit to Ha Ha Tonka State Park had provided us exactly what we were looking for. A chance to get out of the house in a way that allowed us to remain at a safe distance from others. Even though we had been in the presence of other hikers, it seemed that everyone had the same goal in mind. The unending news stories had painted a picture of people completely ignoring all idea of distancing, but that was not the experience that we had found. Even a few short conversations we had been in during the day were done at more than a safe distance. With the whole outdoors to use as a buffer, it seems that people had no problem keeping their distance.

Refreshed and Recharged

We are not suggesting that each and every one of you partake in this type of activity, especially during this odd moment in time. Our goal was simply to remind you that it is important to balance sunshine and social distancing. Perhaps you just need to step out into your backyard for a while. A short stroll around the block may be enough, as long as you remember to keep your distance from non-family members. While isolating ourselves will help slow the spread of this pandemic, we also need to be aware of our physical and mental health. A good dose of vitamin D, along with some fresh air, will help us keep our immune system running better. In the end, we hope that this will end with a vaccine that prevents others from suffering, but in the meantime please be safe!

Share with someone who needs Sunshine and Social Distancing!

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The local CVB’s are an integral partner for us, as they are the main sponsor for our visits. There are no bigger cheerleaders for a community, and their hometown pride shines through during our correspondences. For Jefferson City, we had the pleasure of working with Brittney Mormann, who met us when we arrived in town. After a short visit, we were ready to launch into a schedule filled with places that intrigued us, and some that Brittney had suggested. 

We want to thank Visit Jefferson City and the local businesses for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

More Than a Dome

Our first stop was a chance to see the dome. We have been on a kick of late, and realized that we have visited a slew of state capitals in the past couple of years. I guess this is something we have just grown into, since we never really did many tours in the past. Now that we know just how amazing they are, you can bet we will look forward to more of them, as we continue our travels. We may even find a pair of capitals again, like we did in Springfield, Illinois. The capitol in Jefferson City was under renovation, on the outside, but still available for tours. We chose to forego the tour and just explored on our own.

Inside the building we found the home of the Missouri State Museum. Here we walked through the history of the state, from past to present. In Jefferson City, you will find some interesting details about how the city was chosen to be the state capital. The museum also holds many artifacts about the state’s citizens involvement in defending our country. Be sure to save time to walk the halls in the capitol. The artwork that we found there was so beautiful and adds to the story-line of the state.

Rolling on the River

To see the history from past to present, in Jefferson City, meant that a visit to Jefferson’s Landing was a requirement. Located near the riverfront, this historic building has seen life as many types of business. We enjoyed meandering through the displays, where we learned about life in Jeff City during the early days. This place is certainly kid-friendly, and includes a scattering of interactive exhibits that we explored. The curator on duty is happy to explain to visitors the history of the site, as well as giving additional insight into life back in the 1800s.

Luscious Lunch

Now that our morning coffee was wearing off, our appetites were calling out to us. Time to head downtown and scope out a lunch location. We enjoyed finding that the downtown business district was located in sight of the capital. This makes exploring the past and present, in Jefferson City,  a foot-friendly destination. For our Noontime meal, we had determined to sample The Grand Cafe. Sandwiched in the middle of the shopping district, it makes a great refueling station. The food is a nice selection of American dishes, with interesting twists. The freshness of their ingredients was apparent in the tastes and we loved having a ringside view of shoppers strolling the sidewalk outside.

A Little Retail Therapy

While we dined, we reviewed our day, and were glad that we had saved some free time for exploring. The shop-lined street piqued our interest, and we decided to spend some time looking for treasures. After all, we had a little more than an hour, before our next stop. Walking up and down High Street, we found a nice assortment of choices. Besides finding toys, apparel, and home furnishings, we also spotted an assortment of coffee shops and eateries. Everything you need for a day filled with retail therapy.

Holiday Preparations

Our visit to Jefferson City fell in the back half of November, so many shops were preparing for the upcoming holiday season. We spotted plenty of Christmas cheer being hung inside and out of the stores in the area. Crystal really fancied this shop and even requested that we stop for a quick selfie with the decorations.

A Little Retail Therapy

We continued our treasure search and made a few small purchases during our visit. It is our belief that spreading some tourism dollars, in destinations we visit, is a positive way to impact the local economy. This is especially true when frequenting locally owned shops. Besides, it is always fun seeing the unique finds that can be spotted in these boutique-style shops.

Scary Stories

One of the stops that had not been on our original itinerary was the Missouri State Penitentiary tour. During our planning period, Brittney suggested this attraction. She arranged for us to take one of their two-hour history tours. Little did we know, this visit would be an excellent accent to our history research from past to present, in Jefferson City. While we have heard of sensationalized places, like Alcatraz, we never realized a more notable prison was found in our region. As we walked the cell blocks of these ages old structures, we could only imagine how fearful it would have been to be held there. There is a good reason it was referred to as “the Bloodiest 47 acres in America”.

Bring on the BBQ

With the completion of our tour, we had finished exploring attractions in Jefferson City. It was time for a good dinner, before hitting the road for home. Back to High Street, for another downtown restaurant option. Being from the Midwest, you know we have a love for barbecue. During our walking tour of the shops, we saw a good stream of diners filing into Sweet Smoke BBQ. All of that activity piqued our interest in sampling some of the smoked meats that we could see through the windows. Oh man! This was a really good choice and we were happy to find a sampler platter on their menu.

Local Landmark

I’m sure if we told you that we visited an ice cream shop, you wouldn’t be surprised. On this trip, we were trying to paint a picture of history from past to present, in Jefferson City. So when I tell you that we visited Central Dairy, it was really a research visit. Okay, it may have included some ice cream, but we had to verify the historical facts. This Central Missouri dairy has been in business since 1920, and introduced their ice cream counter in 1934. We needed to find out the secret of their longevity.

Sweet Endings

Since we were preparing to drive for almost three hours, we decided a sweet treat would be the perfect way to end our visit. Stepping through the front door, we found that the place was packed with locals. By the way, if you want to attract attention to yourself, just start taking photos inside of a place like this. As we waited our turn in line, we watched treat after treat being scooped up for anxious guests. Deciding on just one menu item each was putting a lot of pressure on us. Best to leave it to the professionals.

When our turn came, we introduced ourselves to our server. We explained the purpose of our visit, and told them about our decision making predicament. After thinking for a minute, she came up with a couple of great suggestions. She went to work creating our treats, while I captured a few more images of the space. She handed us our creamy dishes, and we found a spot to enjoy them. As we ate our ice cream treats, we watched the steady line of customers file along the ice cream counter. It proved to us that this is the kind of place to spend on evening on the town.

Past to Present in Jefferson City

Even though we only spent one day in Jefferson City, we feel like we gained a good feel for the history of this destination. It confirmed to us, once again, that there are lots of great day trip destinations in the Midwest. Being centrally located between Kansas City and St. Louis, it’s a perfect place to spend a day. We hope our articles inspire you to seek out even more hidden gems in Missouri’s capital city. Now we just have to know, would you be willing to take the penitentiary tour?

The post Past To Present In Jefferson City appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Visit Jefferson City and Missouri State Penitentiary for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Historic Start

Missouri was admitted to the Union in 1821, and the next year saw the capital become Jefferson City. To help ensure that the city retained this designation, the governor decided it needed to be home to the state prison. You can learn more about the city’s interesting history with a visit to the Missouri State Museum. In the early 1830s, the Missouri State Prison came into existence. To give you an idea of the time-frame of its opening, it was the same month as the fall of the Alamo in Texas. It would serve in this capacity for over 160 years until its closure in 2004. That made it the oldest operating penal institution west of the Mississippi River.

Seeking Guidance

Our tour was scheduled for 2:00, which gave us a little downtown exploring time after lunch. When the time approached for our tour, we made our way the short distance to the prison. It surprised us just how close it is to the capital building. We would learn that this location was outside of the city limits, in the 1830s. It makes sense that over time, the city would grow to encompass the facility. We parked our car and made our way to the entrance. Inside the entrance, we found ourselves in a holding area, along with the others who would be on this tour. Soon, Naydene would arrive to corral us, so that our history lesson could begin. While she was not our guide, she was instrumental in keeping us on track.

Into the Yard

As the time to start approached, Michael, our guide called us all together. Michael explained that we were about to embark on a history lesson of one of the most notorious sites in America. After giving us a short history of the early days of the city, we had a better understanding of the prison’s location. In the earliest days, business owners were in charge of the prisoners, who would work for them during the day. Near the penitentiary, we had noticed some large, beautiful homes. Now we learned that they were built for the business owners to stay close to their workers.

Just a couple of decades after the Civil War, there were six shoe companies in Jefferson City. All of these were utilizing labor from the nearby prison. As our guide pointed out that many of these businesses benefitted from this cheap labor source, he also explained the downsides. Since the business owners were responsible for the inmates, it was not unusual for escapes and even deaths to be hidden from the record. After all, they wouldn’t want bad marks on their record, since it might impede their ability to get additional laborers.

Expansion Needed

For the next phase of the tour, we moved out into the yard. As we stood in the warm afternoon sunshine on this chilly fall day, we could imagine it filled with an assortment of criminals. Michael pointed out that in the early 1900s, there would have been flower beds and fountains located in this area. It is hard to picture that such a pleasant setting would house a nefarious crowd of miscreants.

The prison wasn’t nearly as large in the beginning. Over time, the population swelled, which required more housing. Additional buildings were constructed by using prisoner labor. Michael pointed out that what would take a couple of years to have built by outside contractors, could be completed in a few months with prisoner labor. No matter who built them, the buildings were amazing architectural specimens. It surprised us at how well they look, after serving so many for so long.

Walking the Block

Now came the time for us to enter one of the cell blocks. As we passed through the entrance, the cold chill of the November day enveloped us. Staring through the maze of metal, the overwhelming feeling of captivity closed in. Michael explained how the series of doors worked to keep the prisoners segregated from the guards. It was hard to imagine the idea of spending eight hours isolated inside a small cage, where you controlled the coming and going of everyone.

We made our way farther into the cell block, where we could investigate the cramped spaces that would house some of the most dangerous people in the state of Missouri. In fact, in 1932, there were upwards of 5,200 inmates housed in the Missouri State Penitentiary. At that time, it was the largest prison population in America. Walking the block, we could barely imagine what it would have been like to share a cell with four more prisoners.

Keys to Freedom

In each building we entered, Michael would remind us not to attempt to move any of the cell doors. He quickly pointed out that they only had four keys for the whole complex, and would hate to see someone have to spend the night. With the chill that was found inside the empty spaces, we certainly would not have wanted that either. Naydene handed Crystal the keys to show her that there were only four. It was clear that they were created to work in a substantial lock.

Familiar Residents

While walking the block, we learned that there had been some familiar names associated with the Missouri State Penitentiary. Charles “Sonny” Liston would find himself a resident of the prison. After being found guilty of robbery in 1950. It was in the yard that he learned to box. This led to his early release in 1952, and soon he was on his way to becoming a world heavyweight champion. While this positive story had a somewhat happy ending, others were not so pleasant. In 1959, James Earl Ray was found guilty of robbing a grocery store. His twenty-year sentence was interrupted when he escaped in 1967. Within a year, he would kill Martin Luther King Jr.

There was also a short stay by “Pretty Boy” Floyd. In later years, one of Floyd’s accomplices would be executed at Missouri State Penitentiary. Adam Richetti would be found guilty of participating in the “Kansas City Massacre”. Attempting to rescue gangster Frank Nash from custody, the botched mission caused the deaths of four peace officers, as well as their prisoner.

Execution Central

The common form of execution at the prison was public hanging. This would change in 1937 when the governor signed a bill making execution by lethal gas the new method. In 1935, Richetti had been sentenced to hang. An appeal delayed his execution until 1938, which made him the fifth person to die in the gas chamber in Jefferson City.

Eerie Surroundings

From 1937 until 1965 there were 39 inmates executed in this fashion. A halt to executions occurred after 1965. This coincided with the Supreme Court’s rulings on the legality of this practice. Many states began abolishing the death penalty, but Missouri was not one of them. The prison would see one more execution in 1989. During the hiatus, the chamber had been converted from gas to lethal injection. The prison would continue to serve the community until 2004.

Easy Escape

Our time at the Missouri State Penitentiary was now over. After walking the block, we did not wish to ever spend real time in a place like that. We could only imagine how life behind the walls must have been for the prisoners. There must have been a good reason for Time Magazine to label it “the bloodiest 47 acres in America”. These days, the only sounds found inside the hallways are those of the visitors who take one of the tours.

The post Walking The Block At The Missouri State Penitentiary appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Visit Jefferson City and The Grand Cafe for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Downtown Dining

You know that we love exploring the downtown areas of new destinations. While the suburbs hold plenty of chain-type businesses, we find the heart of the locally-owned shops is concentrated in these sections. After a morning filled with history lessons at the Missouri State Museum, we were in the mood for lunch. There are a few options to choose from in the downtown, but we set our sights on The Grand Cafe.

Arriving before noon on a Saturday, we were immediately seated. They had just opened for the day, but there were already other diners inside. While they did notice me moving around with a camera, they seemed more familiar with the situation than I have seen in other destinations. Perhaps Jefferson City is a familiar tourist stop, and we are just late to the party. Crystal had chosen one of the sturdy wooden tables that offered a spot in the late morning sunlight. After snapping a few photos, I joined her to review the menu.

Lunch is as Easy as ABC

Having been in business since 2012, The Grand Cafe has had a chance to work out all of the kinks. Their menu is portioned into three categories; lunch, small bites, and dinner. As we scanned, our eyes took in a nice assortment of meal options. While dishes like Poke Tacos and Grilled Salmon Toastie sounded intriguing, we were both in a ‘fowl’ mood. I was even willing to skip over the Cubano Panini to hazard a try at something new.

My gaze settled on the ABC Chicken Sandwich, which had an intriguing combination of flavors. A marinated chicken breast offers a juicy base for this handheld delight. They kick it up a notch with the addition of smoky bacon, sharp Cheddar cheese, and slices of tart Granny Smith apple. A smear of honey Dijon mustard on the Brioche bun provides a tangy touch. All of these flavors blend so well together that I savored every bite.

Not Your Average Turkey

Crystal didn’t stray very far down the menu, as she stopped on the first entry. The Southwest Turkey Panini was actually going to be my choice, but since she went there I was able to add some variety to our table. A generous pile of smoked turkey breast is held in place with melted pepper-jack cheese. Tomato and avocado slices add more height to the sandwich, and a corn salsa brings an additional texture. Throw some chipotle mayonnaise on the French bread, and then toast it all to a golden crispness.

Like my meal, hers was served with a side of their House-made Chips. These crispy slices had a beautiful sheen that reflected their freshness. Every crunchy bite was a little taste of potato chip heaven. It was apparent that The Grand Cafe had certainly honed their menu to near perfection.

A Peek Behind the Curtain

With our first Jefferson City restaurant under our belts, we were impressed at what Missouri’s Capital City has to offer. Our next stop was scheduled for mid-afternoon, which meant that we had earned some downtown shopping time. Having a good meal really put us in the explorer mode, as we set off to see the sights. The decades-old facades of the buildings invited us to take a closer look. As we moved from shop to shop, we found the staff at each welcoming us in with that all too familiar Midwest hospitality. For us, this is reason enough to explore the Central U.S. What more could you ask for?

The post The Grand Cafe – A Peek Behind The Curtain appeared first on Our Changing Life.

As we approached the capital, we noticed that it was being kept under wraps. Actually, they have a protective cover on the building, while they complete renovations. Since the day was actually one of the first chilly mornings in Fall, it seemed appropriate that the capital had on a coat. Fortunately, the inside is still able to be viewed, in all of its splendor. It has only been the last few years that we have gained an appreciation for the differences inside each state capital building.

We want to thank Visit Jefferson City for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Some Big Shoes to Fill

As we stood under the dome, one of the tour guides started up a conversation. While we told Stephana that we would forego a guided tour, she was still instrumental in providing some background on the building. It was clear that she really knows her stuff, so if you have time we would suggest taking the tour. The Missouri State Museum is split between two halls, on either side of the dome. For this visit, we were concentrating on the History Hall, which was designed in 1919. We were informed that the exhibits in this gallery rotate about every six months.

The first display we found was about Ella Ewing, who has the distinction of growing to be almost 3 feet taller than Crystal. While many would gawk at her unusual height, she would find a way to capitalize off of her deformity. Eventually, she joined the Barnum & Bailey Circus, where she would earn more in six months than most Americans would in any given year. This allowed her to purchase a farm for her parents and a custom-built homestead for herself. Sizing up some history was uncovering some interesting facts.

Back to the Beginning

Indigenous people have inhabited the Midwest for thousands of years. Evidence of these early inhabitants has been found at dig sites around the state. Colossal mounds were constructed by the Mississippian culture and created cities inhabited by thousands of residents. The majority of these people had left the area long before the first European explorers arrived. In the early days, St. Louis had been referred to as “Mound City” due to these leftover formations. This little tidbit came to us during a visit to the Missouri History Museum in St. Louis.

By the time that the first European explorers arrived, there were three main native Indian tribes inhabiting the area. On the east side of the region were the Illini tribe. The Osage occupied the southwest, and the Missouri tribes were concentrated in the northwest. All three tribes were known to harvest crops like corn and squash, as well as hunting the game that was so abundant.

Settling In

By the late 1600s, the French were attempting to colonize the middle of the continent. Their purpose was to inhibit British influence from spreading west. The Mississippi and Missouri Rivers were beneficial in providing pathways through the region. Control of the lands, that would become Missouri, ended up in Spanish control, by the end of the Revolutionary War. Spain embraced the sudden influx of immigrants moving into the eastern edge of their area, as it offered a boost to the economy of their province.

One of the first established settlements would be New Madrid. Spain’s advertisements of free land and no taxes enticed another wave of settlers, including Daniel Boone. By 1800, Spain realized that its heavy investment in the region had not provided the expected returns, so it secretly relinquished control back to France. An embittered war with Britain created a need for Napoleon to sell France’s interest in their lands on the American continent. In March 1803, the Louisiana Purchase would bring Missouri territory into control of the United States.

Homesteading

By the time Missouri became a state in 1821, southerners had been pouring into the territory. The original western border was a straight line, running from Arkansas to Iowa, and as far west as the confluence of the Kansas and Missouri Rivers. What would become the northeast corner of the state was still Indian territory and inhabited by the Iowa, Fox, and Sac tribes. By 1836, these native Indians would be pushed out of the region, to make room for more settlers.

The Missouri River Valley was prime land for agriculture, and farms sprung up all along both sides. Having entered the Union as a slave state, many parcels of land were purchased by slave owners from Kentucky and Tennessee. With the river as a transportation resource, the area was prime for commerce. On the eastern edge of the state, St. Louis served as a waterway hub for riverboat transportation. Across the state, Kansas City would become incorporated in 1848. The state was now primed for explosive growth.

History in the Hallways

While we found that sizing up some history is easy to do in the museum, exploring the rest of the capitol building offers other glimpses into the past. On the second floor, we discovered a series of hallways that are lined with beautifully painted murals. Each one captures the spirit of the people, landscape, and history of Missouri. While the eastern end of our country is known for its major Civil War battles, Missouri was considered a hotbed of a dispute during the War between the States.

While Missouri had entered the Union as a slave state, the use of slaves was primarily concentrated along with the river lands. By the mid-1850s, the country was moving quickly down a path of conflict. The territory to the west of Missouri was being populated by abolitionist groups, which conflicted with the pro-slavery forces in Missouri. As Kansas prepared to enter the Union as a free state, elections were held to choose the legislature. Missourians flooded across the border to cast ballots for slavery candidates. Over 6300 votes were cast, even though the population of the region was less than 2100 people. A fresh influx of antislavery immigrants refused to accept this fraudulently elected government and created their own.

The years leading up to the Civil War were filled with border skirmishes. Border Ruffians patrolled the lands with the intent of preventing new abolitionist immigrants from settling in Kansas territory. Citizens of the cities and towns along the western edge of Missouri lived in fear of raids. On the Kansas side, the same atmosphere was felt by its newly arriving residents. When Kansas was admitted to the Union in 1861, it was the final straw for many in the pro-slavery group.

Sizing Up Some History

While pro-slavery sentiment was strong in areas of Missouri, on a statewide scene it appears that the majority of voters were siding with the Union. A large portion of these was located in the St. Louis region. As the country split in two, Missouri would remain in the Union. The U.S. government issued a request for Missouri troops but found that the governor chose to go in a different direction. He rallied 50,000 troops to join the Confederate forces. While many of the fights in Missouri were made guerrilla-style, there was a notable campaign by former governor Sterling Price.

Price initially sided with the Union and believed that Missouri should not secede. This stance changed after pro-Union forces seized a state militia camp. To Price, this was a declaration of war against Missouri. In August 1861, Sterling Price led troops in an effort to free the Union-controlled capital. The culmination of this campaign was the battle of Wilson’s Creek, where Union forces were soundly defeated. He also found success at the First Battle of Lexington, but soon Union reinforcements arrived in Missouri.

Price was forced to lead his forces to Arkansas, where he would organize guerrilla-style raids into Missouri territory. During 1864, he led a Confederate cavalry expedition of 12,000 riders, through Arkansas, Kansas, and Missouri. As he cut a swath of destruction across Missouri, his force dwindled. In what would later be called the “Gettysburg of the West”, Price found his forces facing overwhelming numbers of Union troops at the Battle of Westport. His remaining cavalry fled south, which signaled the end of the last major Confederate campaign west of the Mississippi River.

Missouri Goes to War

The rift created by the Civil War ran deep in Missouri. While legislation helped soften the hurt, there was still a lot of animosities. All of this was pushed aside when the world was drawn into war. Patriotism in Missouri was second to none, as citizens rallied to volunteer. The high demands for supplies drove the prices for crops to all new highs, which benefited farmers across the state. When the draft was instituted, many of the youth in Missouri was allowed to remain to work the farms.

Social Break (The Reality of Blogging)

As we were sizing up some history, there came times that we had to pause for social updates. These are a reality for travel bloggers so that we can keep our audience engaged. My duties include capturing the images we will use for our articles and social posts. This leaves Crystal to catch up and keep up with showing glimpses of our day. She also has the important task of interacting with all of the comments we receive on our posts. I’m sure that more than a few of you are glad she is the one doing this since she is definitely better at it than I am.

A stop in the Trench Theater offered her a chance to do some catching up, while I watched some informational videos. We were really enjoying the variety of exhibits at the Missouri State Museum. It really helps keep the audience engaged with all of the information they have to offer.

Familiar Faces

As we continued through the galleries, we came across a special feature designed for younger visitors. The Raggedy Ann Trail introduces a variety of Missourians, who have made an impact on the world. When we spotted the photo of George Washington Carver, it reminded us of our visit to Joplin. Just south of the city, we found the George Washington Carver National Monument. While his name was familiar from school, we only thought of him as the “Peanut Man”. What we learned was that this Missouri raised citizen helped revolutionize agriculture ideas worldwide. How many of you have been to his site?

Another Capital Visit

After finishing our exploration of the Missouri State Museum, it was time to wander around the capitol building. We love checking out all of the amazing architecture and artwork we find in these spaces. When you visit Jefferson City, you will need to allow time for this activity, as well. An assortment of Thomas Hart Benton’s paintings, amazing statues, and a beautiful rotunda await your discovery. Bring a camera, and comfortable walking shoes, because you will want to explore all four floors of the capitol building.

Even though it was chilly on the day we visited, we still took some time checking out the grounds. Here we found more statues, including one commemorating Lewis and Clark’s stop along the banks of the nearby Missouri River. Standing at the northern side of the capitol building gave us an amazing view down Main Street. Keep in mind that the Amtrak runs just a block from the capital, so it would make a perfect day trip getaway excursion. Have you ever ridden on Amtrak? We’d love to hear your opinion on this form of travel.

The post Sizing Up Some History – Missouri State Museum appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Visit Jefferson City and Sweet Smoke BBQ for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own.

Doing Downtown

Our attention had been focused on the downtown district of Jefferson City.  This is a regular practice in most every city we visit. After touring a few historic sites, like Jefferson Landing, we saved some time to explore the downtown shops. As we made our way up and down High Street, we passed our dinner spot a couple of times. I couldn’t help but wonder what tasty treats we had in store for the evening. There is something about barbecue that really captures my interest. While I captured images of the area for our articles, the idea of sampling the BBQ scene had captured my attention.

Simple Enough

As the nearby shops began closing for the day, it signaled the time for us to finally get a chance to check out Sweet Smoke BBQ. Stepping through the door, we found the interior pleasing, and the atmosphere simple. This was a good first sign. I have always believed that the more stuff they have to distract your attention, the more of a challenge it may be to find satisfaction in the meal. Here, the decorations are minimal, so diners can keep their focus on the food.

Dinner in downtown can be a mixed bag when it comes to a crowd. Since much of the customer base is usually workers, the evening mealtime can be less busy than lunch. That’s just fine with us since it gives us the freedom to move around for photos. It also means that the staff can focus their attention on fewer tables.

Flavorful Bites

The seating is open to choice, and orders are taken at the counter. On our way there, we discovered the menu plastered on a wall. They have a nice selection of choices and even some that are non-BBQ. (Why would anyone not want barbecue?) Something that jumped out at us was the menu items that allow customers to sample various BBQ styles from around the country. While we love our KC style ‘Cue, we can understand how people from other regions are so dedicated to their own versions.

Each has its own redeeming values, and flavor nuances. We like finding eateries that are willing to go out on a limb and offer this type of variety. Now that we stood there facing the choices, what would we pick? Perhaps some Carolina pulled pork or an Alabama brisket sandwich. The Texas-style tacos, made with three types of meat, looked like a good choice, as well.

Good Bark

As we scanned the menu, we found the perfect plate for sampling the BBQ scene at Sweet Smoke. Their Boss Hogg is a sampler style platter that includes ribs, turkey, brisket, pulled pork, and sausage. To accompany this meaty meal, they include two sides. We chose some of their pit beans and Cole slaw. For us, these are two sides that are staples, when sampling the BBQ scene at a new joint. After placing our order, we grabbed a table and waited for our plentiful platter. With a smaller crowd on hand, it didn’t take long for our meal to arrive.

We like that they serve the meats naked, so diners can choose their sauces. Of course, I like to sample the meats and let the flavor of the smoke stand on its own. We found that they deliver a good bark at Sweet Smoke BBQ. The meats were tender without falling apart, which is where some restaurants struggle. The availability of saucing up our entrees with various styles brought an extra appeal. I lathered up some pulled pork with the tangy Carolina sauce and it reminded me of our trip to the Smoky Mountains. A squirt of the Texas mop sauce added a spicy twist to the tender brisket. Being from Kansas City, I couldn’t pass up slathering some of the sweet and tangy sauce on my pork ribs. It seemed like each bite got better and better until soon they were gone.

Sampling the BBQ Scene

There are times I am in amazement at Crystal’s patience with me. Without hesitation, she prepares the plated meals for me to journal. I’m not sure that I would be able to resist the temptation of testing the tastes laid out before me. Of course, once the pictures are completed, you will find us up to our elbows in our dishes. Once we had time to explore the platter, we discovered some unexpected surprises. Besides delectable dishes of beans and slaw, they also tossed in some delicious nibbles. A sprinkling of pickled apples & onions had a unique taste that demanded us to revisit. The barbecue pickle was another oddity that just works well.

Little did we know, but they would bring out a side order of their Jalapeno Cheddar Grits for us to sample. It was definitely a flavor combination that had both of us going back for more. As we sat there sampling the BBQ scene in Jefferson City, that satisfied feeling washed over us. Once again, we were reassured that good barbecue can be found all over North America. Not only that, but you can find regional favorites in out of the way places. What is your favorite regional style of BBQ?

The post Sampling The BBQ Scene – Sweet Smoke BBQ appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank Visit Jefferson City for their hospitality. Rest assured all opinions are our own. 

Lohman’s Landing

What better place to start our storied history lesson than at the oldest structure in Jefferson City. The Lohman Building was originally constructed in 1839, by a man named James Crump, and has served a multitude of purposes. (The name comes from a later sale to Charles Lohman.) Over time, it has been a warehouse, where freight was unloaded from the railroad, before being moved upriver by paddle-boat. Visitors to the growing capital city were housed in the building when it served as a hotel. During this period, the lower floor was used as a grocery store, tavern, and telegraph office. Commonly referred to as ‘ The Landing’, it was a popular destination for legislators to gather for refreshments.

Securing the Capital

With so many citizens looking to move the capital, something had to be done to secure its present location. In 1832, the current governor suggested the city construct a state penitentiary in Jefferson City. This was completed in 1836, and it settled the issue of moving the capital. Tragedy struck the following year, as the Capitol building burned to the ground. It would take five years to rebuild. As we toured Lohman’s Landing, we tried to imagine life two decades before the Civil War. These simpler times certainly had their own set of trials and tribulations.

Changing Landscape

By 1840, Jefferson City had grown to over 1,000 residents. James Crump had constructed his building by the river just one year earlier. This impressive stone structure was the first that many saw when stepping off the boats in Jefferson City. Local industries were booming, as an influx of German immigrants flooded the nearby farmlands. These new citizens would push the development of distilleries, tanneries and flour mills. When a ship loaded with cholera infected Mormons arrived in 1849, it would have a paralyzing affect on local business that would last for a couple of years.

Railroad Arrives

It took until 1855 for the Pacific Railroad to connect Jefferson City to St. Louis. The inaugural trip would once again bring disaster to Jefferson City. The locals had gathered on a pier, to await the arrival of dignitaries. When the structure collapsed onto a bridge spanning the Gasconade River, 28 people were killed and as many more injured. Eventually, a regular railroad service would be established by 1856. The storied history of the capital city was proving to be filled with many epic moments.

A Country at War

Civil War struck deeply in the center of the country. Missouri was struggling to determine its stance on slavery, even though the legislature had voted to remain in the Union. When a request for Union troops was issued, the governor instead rallied 50,000 troops to join Confederate forces. Union troops took control of the capital city and resisted any attempts of Confederate control. The closest fighting involved exchanged cannon fire with troops being led by former Missouri Governor Sterling Price. The effects of the Civil War in Missouri would leave a feeling of resentment on both sides. (More Missouri Civil War history can be found here.)

In Jefferson City, the stone structure that Charles Crump had constructed was being used as a hotel. A business associate, who had leased the upper floors, received plenty of business from travelers along the river. This lodging option started as the Missouri Hotel but would see a name change to the Union Hotel, in reference to the owners Civil War sentiments.

Bringing Peace Back to Capital City

It took until 1875 for the legislature to revise the Missouri constitution. Once this was completed, it allowed the citizens to move past the economically stifling war. New industries would blossom, including shoe manufacturing and printing. The influx of settlers passing into the west would provide much-needed revenue for local businesses. The heyday of river travel was coming to an end, as more people began traveling by rail. The Lohman building closed up shop to retail customers and was turned into a warehouse.

Just as things seemed to be returning to a state of normalcy, the idea of moving the state capital once again rose its ugly head. In 1896, the city of Sedalia attempted to win this favor but was voted down by the citizens of Missouri. After the turn of the century, the business of state government became the dominating tone of Jefferson City. The storied history of Jefferson Landing would see the Lohman warehouse converted into the Tweedie Shoe Company.

Storied History

It would take until the 1960s before the state would acquire the property. Sitting nearby the capital, this historic structure had been an important piece of the storied history of the surrounding area. Our tour of this FREE attraction, allowed us a look back at life in a simpler time. We can imagine stepping off of a riverboat, and stopping in the store for supplies, before heading off to wherever our travels would lead us. On the day of our visit, we noticed a surprisingly large number of people at the site. We would learn that the local Amtrak stop is located across the street from Lohman’s Landing. This is certainly something to keep in mind for future visits. With shopping and dining, as well as the capitol building, so close by, it would make a perfect train day trip. Have you ever taken an Amtrak trip?

The post Storied History At Jefferson Landing appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank the businesses and Explore St. Louis for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

1) They Embrace Other Cultures

Saint Louis is a city filled with an amazing amount of history. Over the centuries, this region has been the home of Native American Indians. Prior to becoming a territory of the United States, after the Louisiana Purchase, it was also claimed by Spain and France at times. These various influences can be found in the architecture and names of places throughout the metropolitan area. With all of the various ethnicities, that abound inside the city limits, it is no surprise to see the almost unending desire to learn more about foreign cultures. This was most apparent to us during a visit to the St. Louis Art Museum in Forest Park. The wide range of artistic pieces is a good draw for locals and travelers alike. What was really pulling them in was a temporary exhibit about the recently discovered sunken treasures in Egypt. Like so many of the locals, we became fixated with learning as much as we could about these ancient people. As Nehru once said, “Culture is the widening of the mind and spirit.” (You can read more about the Art Museum here>)

2) Want To Know Their Own History

While learning other cultures is vital, it is just as important to understand our own pasts. A stop at the Missouri History Museum gave us a great insight into the past of the city. History is who we are, so learning the history of St. Louis helped us better understand its people. Our visit allowed us to see the tail end of the temporary exhibit on the Civil Rights struggle, in this city’s past and present. It was a reminder that no matter how far we have traveled, there is still plenty of road before us. We also spent a good deal of time learning about the 1904 World’s Fair and its impact on the future development of the city. It was quite eye-opening. (You can read more about the History Museum here>)

3) Quietly Honor The Fallen

The Jefferson Barracks is an area unlike any we have in our hometown of Kansas City. It amazes us that even though these two cities share a state, they have such varied historical paths. Driving through the cemetery reminded us of all of the Americans who have fallen during times of war. A stop at the Missouri Civil War Museum highlighted one of the most divisive events in the history of our country. What was the most poignant part for us, was that the museum presents the conflict simply by the facts. It attempts to avoid pushing one or the other sides agenda, and is simply there to honor those that fell fighting for something they believed in. This showed us the true compassion of the people of St. Louis and their ability to rise above the ongoing squall to show respect to those who gave the ultimate sacrifice. (You can read more about the Civil War Museum here>)

4) They Will Never Stop Learning

One of the keys to life is to learn something new each day. We have found travel to be a great education since we get to sample so many new things. It is always kind of funny to us when we include a place like the St. Louis Science Center in our itinerary. Almost every time we hear the same thing from the tourism team that we are working with. “You realize that place is designed for kids, right?” Well, yes we do. By the way, we will be two of the biggest kids in attendance that day. Places like this exist so that the locals and travelers can dive deeper into the cause and effects of the world around us. We dove in headfirst to the various exhibits. So much to see and do spread out through this facility. Somewhere along the way, we heard the shriek of happy kids and had to wonder if it was us that we were hearing. (You can read more about the Science Center here>)

5) Are Never Too Old To Enjoy Playing

Speaking of playing, we cannot say just how surprised we were during our visit to the City Museum. When we heard the suggestions from our readers, we had to wonder just what the real draw was to this place. Less of a museum and more of an adult-sized playground is the only way to describe it. When we pulled into the parking lot, we were already getting giddy. Tubes, chutes, ladders, walkways, tunnels, caves, and numerous slides are found inside and out of this engaging attraction. Be sure to stop in the gift shop and grab a pair of knee pads to aid in your exploring. Our only disappointment was that we went too early in the year, so the rooftop portion was not yet open. Oh well, it gives us a reason for a return trip. (You can read more about City Museum here>)

6) Not Afraid To Stand Out From The Crowd

Being unique is becoming more difficult to find these days. It seems that many people want to just blend in, and not draw any attention to themselves. While this may seem to be a safe approach to life, it leaves a person with a higher potential for regrets in later years. An old proverb says, “If you are too busy to laugh, you are too busy.” Sometimes we need to just cast off worrying about others’ impressions of us and do something that makes our heart sing. These are the moments that we will look back on fondly. St. Louis showed us plenty of people who weren’t afraid to step out of the shadows and let their lights shine. Seeing others act on their impulses certainly brought smiles to our faces.

7) They Love Their Musical Heritage

So many people associate ragtime, blues, modern gospel, and even hip-hop with big cities like New York, L.A., or even Chicago. Would you be surprised to find out the wide variety of musicians got their start or honed their crafts in the clubs and bars of St. Louis? Ragtime icon Scott Joplin moved to “Mound City” (An old St. Louis nickname) in 1901 to ply his trade. At that time, ragtime was so new that many publishers were unsure how to write the sheet music for some of his pieces. Many of the blues musicians that made Chicago famous were still playing primarily in St.Louis until the 1930s. Rock and Roll legend Chuck Berry got his start in St. Louis playing country riffs. This twang would remain a piece of his style even as he transformed into this new genre of music. Even current musical stars like Nelly (Cornell Haynes, Jr.) have hometown ties to the Gateway City. If you want to see a great selection of nostalgic memorabilia, including musical pieces, stop in Blueberry Hill on the Delmar Loop for a tour or better yet, a meal.

8) They Want More For Their City

Now that the Delmar Loop has been mentioned, let’s spend a little time on this historic avenue. The Loop, as it is referred to by locals, is a six block-long section of shops, restaurants, and entertainment venues. In the early days of the city, (Think the 1904 World’s Fair time-frame) Delmar Street was serviced by a streetcar that offered city dwellers a chance to escape the heat and head to the outskirts. As the city transformed, this area was abandoned and became blighted. In the 1970’s a leader stepped from the sideline to help begin a decades-long process of reviving the Loop to grandeur. Joe Edwards started with a single new business, but continued with time to revitalize many of the historic buildings along the route. The addition of the Moonrise Hotel brought a boutique lodging option to an area starved for places to host travelers to the city. These days, the Delmar Loop is recognized as one of the “Ten Great Streets in America”. After staying at the Moonrise and spending ample time on the Loop, we can only imagine the amount of dedication required to transform the area. (You can read more about Moonrise here>)

9) Recognize Greatness In Others

As we wandered the Loop, we noticed an array of stars and plaques placed in the sidewalk. At first it was just a passing glance, but soon we would find ourselves recognizing the famous names. Many of the names were easy to place, but some were more obscure and caused us to pause to learn more about them. With over 140 separate plaques, visitors will surely find plenty to hold their attention. It is also a great way to learn about the ties that many famous people have with St. Louis.  So many facts that we never knew.

10) Are Hooked On Space

A reoccurring theme we found during our travels around the Gateway City was space travel. We expected it at the Moonrise Hotel but were a little surprised to find hints of it throughout the Delmar Loop. In many stops along the way, we would see a homage to this dreamy desire. There are even signposts that give interesting perspective on each of the planets in our solar system. Just when we had decided it was specific to the Loop, we made a visit to the St. Louis Science Center. Here we found an entire section of the building dedicated to space travel. Wow! Saint Louis really likes their space.

11) Welcome Guests With Great Attractions

Having claimed to America’s Top Free Attraction is nothing to take lightly. Saint Louis holds that distinction with their world-class zoological park. The St. Louis Zoo sees around 3,000,000 visitors each year. That is more than the entire metropolitan population of the city it lies within. With over 16,000 animals on display, it takes a highly organized staff to keep everything in tip-top shape. We can tell you from an outsider view, that the zoo is an amazing asset for the St. Louis community. During our visit, we tried to cover as many of the 90 acres that we could. Even on a brisk day the crowds were out in force to observe the animals in action. Being zoo lovers, we have no problem suggesting the St. Louis Zoo to anyone planning a visit to the Gateway City. It’s that good! (You can read more about the Zoo here>)

Well, those are some of our observations of the people of St. Louis. Obviously, we only had time to meet a few of them, but we were quite impressed by the welcoming spirit we felt from those we did interact with. Hopefully, this article has piqued your own interest in visiting the Gateway to the West and maybe doing some of your own observing’s. Be sure to look for the little things that make these Midwestern dwellers stand out. Enjoy your stay and travel safely!

The post 11 Things That Make St. Louis The True Gateway City appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank the restaurants and Explore St. Louis for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Loving The Loop

We really enjoy our breakfasts, and not just because we get coffee. There are plenty of unique places that make the morning meal a little more special. Run of the mill cafes and diners are enjoyable, if the food is good, but toss in something extra and the visit becomes memorable. That would certainly be the case for our stop in Peacock Loop Diner.  We loved that they are open 24 hours a day, which means we don’t have to try to fit a visit in their schedule. Add to that their brightly colored decor and fun attractions, and you have a picture perfect opportunity. (You can read more about Peacock here>)

Coffee Lovers Unite

Sometimes we happen upon a spot that wasn’t on our original list. Blueprint Coffee began as a stop for an extra shot of caffeine, but after seeing their dishes, we knew a longer visit was in order. Luckily, we usually leave a little wiggle room in our itinerary for just this kind of occasion. A full blown breakfast turned out to be a wonderful way to meet some locals, as well as sample some true drip coffee. (You can read more about Blueprint here>)

All That Fizz

What do you get when you combine a local St. Louis craft soda bottler with a dining/dessert shop? Fitz’s Restaurant was a fun stop that draws huge crowds. We loved the high octane atmosphere of the place, as servers whizzed by with large trays of goodies. The sodas are SO good that it is hard to keep from chugging them. Fortunately, we had just enough will power to save some to accompany our meals. Next visit we have to try one of their over-the-top floats. You can make it with any flavor of soda. (Yes, mine will be Orange Creme.) (You can read more about Fitz’s here>)

It’s Alive!

Barbecue is like a lifeline for Kansas Citians, and we knew that we would need to see if we could find some in St. Louis. Sure enough, there are plenty of choices in the gateway City, and we settled in for a sample at Salt + Smoke. They had some options that we don’t see in KC, but when in Rome… The most important part of the meal was the delicious smokiness that was prevalent in the meat. That’s something that just can’t be faked. (You can read more about Salt here>)

A Sweet Treat

Life is always better with dessert. This could be our mantra. Just a short walk from our hotel we discovered Piccione Pastry. This family run bakery serves up a variety of sweet treats daily. We were fascinated watching the staff making cannoli and some other desserts. They also serve a breakfast and lunch menu, but who says you can’t just eat dessert for breakfast?

Eating In The East

There were a couple of stops that took us away from our home-base near Forest Park. In the Jefferson Barracks region we uncovered Cafe Telegraph. This local favorite is home to one of the largest dishes we saw in St. Louis. The Fred Flintstone is an immense pork steak that can easily feed two. (If not three or four!) We have to be honest and say just seeing one scared us away from ordering it. Being out-of-towners, we will use the excuse of not being able to deal with doggy bags. If you decide to tackle this monster, you will want to bring your “A” game. (You can read more about Telegraph here>)

Happy Hour Munchies

Sometimes we find ourselves needing a quick pick-me-up between meals. During our visit to City Museum, we became a little parched. Fortunately, I had planned a little rendezvous at a Mexican cantina just a couple blocks away. Rosalita’s offers a nice Happy Hour food menu, and some delicious $4 margaritas. We sampled a couple of their tamales, as well as a huge plate of Chicken Fajita Nachos. Add to that the chips and salsa we munched on, and we were refreshed and ready for some more play time.

A Missed Opportunity

Back at City Museum, we discovered that they have some dining options, as well. While we didn’t end up eating there, it appeared that those who did were truly enjoying it. We saw sandwiches, snacks, and even an outdoor grilling station going gangbusters. A short stop at Beatnik Bob’s provides a rest break from exploring to satisfy any liquid cravings. The day of our visit the roof wasn’t open, but we heard a rumor that they have their own little cantina up there. Once again, another visit will be required. (You can see more fun photos of City Museum here>)

Rest assured that a visit to St. Louis will not leave you hungry. With so many great eateries, you will find something for everyone in your group. (We barely scratched the surface.) Be sure to try some toasted ravioli, which the city is known for. So, pull up a chair, and come take a taste. We think you will be pleased. Bon Appetit!

The post Sample The Flavors Of St. Louis Dining appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank the St. Louis Zoo and Explore St. Louis for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Chilly Start

Our visit to the St. Louis Zoo occurred on the last weekend in March, so we knew going in that the weather would be a little unpredictable. The previous day had been cold and rainy, but on the morning of our visit the sun broke free of the clouds. While the temperatures started in the 50’s, the forecast was for a quick warm up, which we would certainly relish. We arrived just before opening time, so we could get some shots around the entrance. While the zoo is free, parking can be a little of a challenge. They have a couple of pay lots ($15 per car) or you can take your chance trying to find a spot on a nearby street. We decided that the cost of the pay lot was less than we would usually spend on admission, and it was quite convenient.

Creepy Crawlies

After orienting ourselves with the layout of the zoo, we decided that it would be best to locate some indoor exhibits. Fortunately, the St. Louis Zoo has a few to choose from. The zoo is broken into six main zones, (We are only focusing on five of them for this article.) and since we entered on the North side, we began our exploration in the Discovery Corner. The Insectarium offered a chance to get indoors, while exploring the life of the tinier species. The area is well designed and guides visitors on a discovery of the world of insects. We began by learning what designates a creature as an insect and eventually worked our way to the area that explains the important roles that insects play in our ecosystems. The whole exhibit is presented in a way that is appealing to all ages with many displays set at heights that allow younger guests eye level viewing.

Braving The Wild

Back outside, we discovered that the temps were still on the chilly side. (Fortunately it wasn’t windy!) We doubled back toward the entrance to visit The Wild. This zone was very popular with the other guests who were beginning to flow in.  We viewed the outside of the penguin exhibit, but decided to skip a visit inside. We have been through it recently and knew the crowds would make for a slow procession. A few of the birds were lingering around the outside pool, so we watched them preen themselves for a few minutes, before moving along.

A flurry of commotion signaled it was time to head to the polar bear exhibit. Sure enough, a crowd had gathered to watch the antics of one of the local residents. We aren’t quite sure which is more entertaining, watching the bear or the crowds reaction. Both made for some enjoyable moments, which we relished for a while. As some in the crowd would depart, new visitors would join the throng of eager viewers. Cell phones and cameras snapped shots of the splishing and splashing entertainer. Every once in a while we would hear someone remark about the massive size of the bear’s paw. To be honest, it is quite entrancing to watch the interaction between species.

Heading Up The Hill

We walked past the grizzly exhibit, and caught a quick view, before deciding to look for more indoor exhibits. Crossing the railroad tracks led us on the path to the Historic Hill area. At this point it is worth mentioning that obviously not everything at the zoo is free. There are a variety of snack and dining options available, which we found to be priced in line with most zoological parks we have visited. There are also a few special events and shows throughout the day that come with an additional fee. You can check the zoo’s website for a list of these. (The link is near the beginning of this article.)

Back To The Beginning

The St. Louis Zoo can trace its origin to the 1904 World’s Fair. While much of the original construction has been revised, Historic Hill remains the most historic portion of the zoo. Seeking warmth, we headed for the herpetarium, since we were sure it would be quite tropical. Sure enough, the crowds had also sought out this climate, so we decided to embrace them into our exploration. (It works well, since we like to people watch.) The herpetarium is broken into four distinct zones; desert, tropical, temperate, and montane (mountain forests). As we passed through the exhibits we noted the large number of families using the experience for education. It was fun to watch the looks of discovery on the faces of the kids, as they pointed out an interesting tidbit about a creature they were observing.

Sometimes, it is best just to take a moment to pause and reflect. Clearly these kids found the slow and purposeful motion of this snake to be entrancing. Throughout the building this theme repeated itself over and over. It was nice to watch the engagement and know that this was a learning exercise disguised as well as a fun activity.

More Learning Opportunities

One of our favorite things about zoos is their desire to help educate the public about a variety of topics that affect our planet. Some exhibits are designed to showcase a specific region’s ecosystem, like this area we discovered in the River’s Edge region of the park. The signage helps explain the species that can be found in and around the water’s edge. Many of the displays sprinkled around the park are obviously there primarily for these educational chances, and are designed to draw visitors in and spark conversations. By creating a desire to learn more about the other creatures that inhabit our world, it may foster a more caring attitude about our daily activities, and how they affect our planet.

We were pleased to see many families using these displays to help bring a better understanding to the next generation. In this base camp style setup, we watched a father share some of his knowledge with his daughters. Even though we were not accompanied by our kids or grandkids, we could still relate to this style of parenting. I’m sure there may have been a few “dad jokes” interspersed in the lessons, but that’s what makes them so memorable.

Public Education

It is important for people to understand the role of zoos. They are a public education institute focused on the survival of species. Many zoos are breeding places for endangered species or host rehabilitation services for animals that have suffered injuries. Most zoos also serve the role of endearing foreign species to the public in an effort to help create an attitude of preservation. The St. Louis Zoo includes many informational placards describing the steps they take, as well as the ones we can take, to help perpetuate our planet’s native species.

They don’t just focus on the animals that we see everyday, but also the ones that we have no interaction with. The River’s Edge area has a lot of African species. Obviously, this takes up a lot of space, since many of these animals are huge. As we passed hippos, rhinos, and elephants we thought about how well their exhibits are designed to reduce stress on the animals. At the same time, the designs also allow visitors some amazing views of creatures they will unlikely see in their natural habitat.

Wrapping It All Up

After examining the map, we realized we had overlooked an important section of the zoo. Red Rocks is home to many of the hoofed animals that populate the planet. We made our way over to the zone and observed giraffes, zebras, gazelles, and one of our favorites, the okapi. Our closest encounter with an Okapi occurred at Tanganyika Park near Wichita, Kansas. (You can read more about that park here>) With the day beginning to warm up, we decided to fast forward through these exhibits and make our way to the big cats. We have to limit our time at each stop, since we try to fill our itineraries with as many possible articles, as possible. As we came up to the cat section, we found a jaguar out and about. These are amazing creatures to watch, as they move so fluidly. He stayed outside for a little while, and we even got to see it rolling around in the leaves. Too soon it moved back inside to escape the rising temperatures and glaring sun.

We moved over to the other exhibits, but found the occupants had already come to the same conclusion. Clearly, it was nap time! With all of them taking their midday breaks, we decided it was time for us to make our exit. Lunch was calling and we still had plenty of St. Louis to explore before our chance to sleep. Have you ever visited the St. Louis Zoo? Which area of the park is your favorite? We’d love to hear about your experiences in the comments section below. Thanks!

The post Five Zones Of Free Fun At The St. Louis Zoo appeared first on Our Changing Life.

We want to thank the Missouri History Museum and Explore St. Louis for their hospitality. Rest assured that all opinions are our own.

Humble Beginnings

The Missouri History Museum is broken into galleries that focus on various topics or time frames related to the region’s past. On the second floor there are a pair of galleries that cover the historical span of the last 200 years. Currents showcases the perspective from the original visitors and early settlers of St. Louis. As we viewed the exhibits, we learned about the hunters and trappers who first came to the area in search of the wildlife that was so plentiful near the river. A fur trading post was first established in the area around 1764 by French trappers. The lands stayed mainly under French control until the Louisiana Purchase in 1803.

A River Runs Through

This newly gained territory attracted a horde of settlers to the city. The Mississippi River  was the commercial highway of the time and businesses flourished due to the city becoming a jumping off point for settlers heading west. Paddle-boats plied the muddy waters and along the shoreline docks were built to handle the steady stream of supplies coming from the south and east. St. Louis incorporated in 1823, and continued to thrive as a center for commerce and trading. The two decades leading up to the Civil War saw a surge in population for the city, as many immigrants poured in from Germany and Ireland. This was in part due to the German Revolution and the Irish Potato Famine, which both caused upheaval in their homelands. By 1900, St. Louis had matured into a manufacturing center, which was well positioned and serviced by rail and river.

The City On Display

A monumental highlight for St. Louis was being chosen to host the 1904 World’s Fair. In those days, this event was not to be missed. In addition to this celebrity filled extravaganza, the city was also hosting the 1904 Olympic Games. In a seven month span, St. Louis would play host to over 20 million visitors from around the globe. The construction of lush gardens, new thoroughfares, and around 1500 buildings was a monumental task.

To this day the event is still immortalized in movies, songs, and articles. The Missouri History Museum has a collection of over 250 artifacts from the event including; furniture, carriages, trophies, and awards. It was so interesting for us to see all of these pieces of a short moment in time that touched so many lives. Be sure to read some of the stories behind the lives of the people who helped make this event a rousing success.

Flying Into The Future

Air travel has long been associated with St. Louis. We would hazard to guess that almost every child has read about Charles Lindbergh and his plane, the Spirit of St. Louis. It’s a little surreal to actually be reading information placards about its construction, as well as seeing a replica of it hanging from the ceiling of the museum.

An exhibit called Panoramas of the City contains a variety of images collected from around St. Louis during the first half of the twentieth century. These panoramic shots show a good cross section of life in the Midwest. More than 50 images are displayed in supersized detail, which allows visitors a glance into the past. We were especially excited to see a couple of panels that mention a connection to our hometown of Kansas City.

The sister gallery to Currents is located just across the way, and is named Reflections. In this exhibit hall we found that the focus moved from the founding of the city, to the personal stories that shaped it to what we know today. Music has been a large part of St. Louis’ history and is well represented in the Missouri History Museum. Famous names like Scott Joplin and Chuck Berry have local connections to the city. In this gallery we also found lots of information on the sports teams that are synonymous with the Gateway City, and offer many hours of entertainment and frustration to sports fans across the nation.

Rotating Exhibits

Like many museums, the Missouri History Museum has a gallery that is used for rotating or traveling displays. During our visit it featured an exhibit titled #1 in Civil Rights: The African American Freedom Struggle in St. Louis. The exhibit ran for a year, but ended its run on April 15, 2018. St. Louis has often been on the forefront of the civil rights movement, and quite often grabbing attention in local and national news.

The exhibit was well organized and laid a good groundwork of information for those visiting from beyond the city limits. It was easy enough to follow along with the changes in atmosphere over the decades. The informational placards included many personal stories, which help drive their messages home with museum visitors.

Poignant Reflection

The day of our visit we found this gallery to be quite popular. The majority of guests were couples or small groups who slowly proceeded through the exhibit. At each display they would pause to take in the significance of the event being described. The entire set of displays was a powerful tool that helped bridge the gap from the issues of the past and show that while many advances have been made, there is still a vast amount of room to improve community relationships.

One of the most fascinating features of the exhibit was the timeline, which led us all through the years of protests and marches designed to cast a light on the inequality that a portion of our population faces every day. Here we learned the names of many who are not as well known, but served an important role in molding the changes that have occurred. The temporary exhibit also highlighted the four Supreme Court civil rights cases that originated in St. Louis.

A City Evolving

Throughout the Missouri History Museum the resounding theme was that St. Louis is a city that is ever changing. The skyline has evolved to add new structures, as the growing population push the boundaries of the city’s limits. With all of the services of any major metropolis, St. Louis has blossomed into a major destination for travelers. With service from air, rail, and a cross section of highways, many oaths across the nation pass through the city.

Fun For All Ages

With all of the history swirling in our heads, we almost overlooked one last gallery. The History Clubhouse is a place designed to engage the younger set, as well as their parents and grandparents. (Of course, we consider ourselves big kids!) Here you can experience much of the history of the city, but on a smaller scale. Many of the buildings are recognizable, but stand at a more manageable height. Kids can dress up in period clothes, fish from a canoe or put on a puppet show for friends and family. It’s a great place to let your imagination soar. Unfortunately for us, the time was approaching for the museum to close, so the activity of the day had subsided. We took a few minutes to do a little exploring, before making our way back to our car. With plenty of new knowledge under our belts, we were ready to explore more of the Gateway City.

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