When we heard that Denver Biscuit Company was coming to KC, images of fluffy mounds, covered in gravy, filled our thoughts. Little did we know, the reality would be fat stacks of folded biscuit bliss that would challenge our appetites. Our affinity for southern-style foods means that we love folded biscuits, although we never turn away the offer of drop biscuits either. Knowing that the company has its origins in Colorado, we were puzzled on how it decided to intertwine this southern classic into its menu. This would require a visit to their new site at 4144 Pennsylvania Avenue to solve the mystery.
Welcome to KC
Westport is the perfect backdrop for opening new restaurants. With a steady stream of customers and lower rents than the Plaza, you only need to concern yourself with delivering consistently good dishes. It seems like some have learned this, as seen by the recent addition of Snooze A.M. Eatery, another Colorado-based business. The owner of Denver Biscuit, Drew Shader, is originally from Florida, so we now understand why his restaurant features folded biscuit bliss. His drive to deliver unbelievable eats has motivated him to create his “pièce-de-résistance”, the Atomic Cowboy.
Atomic Cowboy is actually one of four stops that now call the Old City Ice House building home. Recently, we have seen the rise in “food halls”, where a variety of mini-restaurants cohabitate a space. This newest version brings together Fat Sully’s (pizza), Frozen Gold (ice cream), and Denver Biscuit (sandwiches) all under the Atomic Cowboy (cocktails) umbrella. It’s kind of a one-stop-shop for groups since everyone can pick their favorites.
Sugary Fat Stacks
Our visit was timed out as a late brunch, which allowed us to feel okay sampling breakfast and lunch style dishes. Shannon, our server, was quick to get us on track with some coffee. Since we were newbies at this place, we let her walk us through the menu. Denver Biscuit has plenty of breakfast sammies but also includes some unique twists with their biscuits. When we asked our server what the most popular menu item was, she didn’t hesitate to answer. The Giant Biscuit Cinnamon Rolls are truly a sight to behold. We ordered it at the same time as the rest of our meals, so you can imagine our surprise when this sugary fat stack was delivered to our table.
Speaking of sweet surprises, Crystal had chosen to sample The Lola. This tempting creation is made with buttermilk fried chicken, bacon, and housemade honey butter. But wait, they don’t stop there. To kick it up another notch, the whole thing is drenched in maple syrup. Each bite was a combination of sweet and savory flavors. While the cinnamon roll was larger than life, this sammie was peaking even higher. The first thing that came to mind was “How do you eat something like this?” Have no fear, we developed a successful plan of attack and soon it was just a memory.
Now how can you top a sammie as huge as Crystal’s? Well for me, I merely had to order The Schooner. This towering creation shines a light on the savory side of the menu at Denver Biscuit. To create it, they begin with the folded biscuit bliss that had us falling in love with the taste and texture. In between the top and bottom of the biscuit, they install a fat stack of flavors. Cornmeal and PBR Beer battered catfish filets provide a punch of taste that was a first for me. Of course, you have to accent it, so they included tartar sauce, Coleslaw, and tomato for zest. I would have never thought that they could build a fish sammie so tall.
Fat Stacks of Flavor
The unbelievable scale of our dishes had us remembering the oversized burgers we had in Springfield, Missouri. We would hazard to say that these folded biscuit treats were even taller than the burgers. While our meal was certainly filled with unusual folded biscuit based dishes, there were others on the menu that we need to test out. After all, we had to pass up their version of Strawberry Shortcake and Biscuit French Toast. There is even a Biscuit Pot Pie on the menu that sounded absolutely amazing. Looks like we will have to keep Denver Biscuit Co. on our radar for future dining opportunities. Do you think you could handle these towering treats?